SFF.Network Streacom Launches the DA2

fabio

Shrink Ray Wielder
Apr 6, 2016
1,885
4,325
Yea. I know the numbers, but I suspected it could fit, albeit tightly. I had to slightly bend one of the pipes top, but it did fit. Down to a milimeter. :)


Oh, man... I am so sorry. Noctua NH C14S already arrived I spent my day figuring how to fit it best. @fabio is totaly on point. There is no clean way to fit C14S into this case. Ended up turnin cooler so that modded GPU is on top (intake) and cooler's top protrudes bottom double dust mesh, which had to be removed as well.
Oh and... Rear 92mm fan from that build was intake, FUMA mid cooler same direction. Keen eye, sir - had it reversed for testing. Wrong setup is +15 degrees Celsius. :)

Learned 2 interesting things yesterday.
As I tore the build apart I took time and also modded my MSI 1080ti Gaming X. Removed factory cooling (one of blades broke as card is 2.5 slots wide and the blade hit the fatter acrylic sheet adn broke off), replaced with 2 Noctua NF-F12 PWM chromax. Hardest part was modifing standard 4pin PWM connector to fit GPU onboard connector. But happy to report GPU runs cooler and more silent. Also fans stop as originaly designed.
Also when trying different orientations for C14S I realized that inner power extension cord can be pulled apart if needed. :)

No pictures of this second version of black/red as I am waiting for 140mm cromax Noctua. :oops:
But will do Aida64 stress test and post results today.
Cool! Post pictures when you've done! I suggest to use the EKwb Vardar EVO instead of the Chromax 140mm. At the same speed, on a heatsink they are more efficient and silent. I never liked the sounds of the Noctua A14.
 
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Sirex

Chassis Packer
Dec 6, 2018
14
12
Any thoughts on reducing GPU temperature in my case? The RTX 2060 Founders Edition is getting really hot during load (82c max). It blows all the hot air to the right side of the case and the right panel starts to get very hot. I have no intention of overclocking, and I only want to use fans (no elaborate setups).



(above) That's a 140mm Noctua Redux. Right now I'm thinking of adding a second one next to it. I can't slide it all the way to the left because it then bumps against the 92mm Redux facing rear. The 92mm could be moved though. I took off that magnet mesh panel because I'm pretty sure it just blocks too much airflow.




(above) An inside view of the gap between the 140mm fan and the RTX 2060 FE. It seems to fit without touching.



(above) All that hot air from the GPU blows straight onto the motherboard, cooking my 2x M.2 drives o_O The case panel on this side gets alarmingly hot, probably because it's pure aluminum.
Actually, the SSDs, CPU and motherboard all seem to have tolerable temperatures (unless someone suggests otherwise?), my main concern is the GPU.

I could look into mounting the 92mm Redux below the PSU here as an exhaust. The 92mm fan is currently an exhaust on the rear of the case, but I honestly doubt it's having much of an effect there because all the heat seems to be driven to the right-hand side.
Also, as someone suggested in this thread, I could slide the PSU back towards the opposite side panel. That would give more room for a fan on this side. Or possibly just more breathing room.

Max temperatures:


From my brief observations, the average GPU temp under load is around high 70s (celcius).

What a beautiful big fan that 140 is :)

I personally do not like removing the bottom or top air filters as it detracts from the case beauty in a way, even if it helps with thermals.

So I would try to:
- Slide the PSU towards the other side panel and flip it around so it's drawing air through the side and out of the top (it might get choked a bit by the restrictive side panel but it's worth a try since it gets really load when it get hot, but cold air from the outside might be better than drawing heated air from the inside).
- Mount an as big as possible fan where the PSU now sits, beside the motherboard as exhaust, in the lowest position possible to draw more air over the GPU.

You could also try to move the 140 fan (as intake) as far left (to the back of the case) as you can. I think you have to experiment a bit with the positioning.


Optionally you could remove the rear 90mm redux fan or swap it around for intake. In my experience it is more noisy as intake but it might help direct the airflow from back/back-left-side to front-right-side.

Looking forward to hear the results!
 
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Veryaton

Average Stuffer
Feb 28, 2017
65
31
Although my heatsink has three broken heatpipes, I have done several tests with it and clearly the best airflow configuration with this box is from left to right. Tests with Aida64 and no power limits (9900K all cores 4.7 GHz). With the heatsink in good condition I'm sure that the temperatures could have been lower... how much? I don't know, maybe 10º less?

 

fabio

Shrink Ray Wielder
Apr 6, 2016
1,885
4,325
Although my heatsink has three broken heatpipes, I have done several tests with it and clearly the best airflow configuration with this box is from left to right. Tests with Aida64 and no power limits (9900K all cores 4.7 GHz). With the heatsink in good condition I'm sure that the temperatures could have been lower... how much? I don't know, maybe 10º less?

Hey man! Just to show you the U9s with 2 A9 PMW fans, flow left to right, all core 5ghz, with AVX offset of 3 (Working in AIDA at 4.7, then), Undervolt of -20mV one 140mm fan exhausting on the side.



Even if the U9s is smaller, it does an amazing job!
 
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Veryaton

Average Stuffer
Feb 28, 2017
65
31
Yeah, that looks like a good temperature. Surely I should have stopped experimenting and gone for a U9s, but the damage is done.
Thanks man
 

fabio

Shrink Ray Wielder
Apr 6, 2016
1,885
4,325
THEN,
I'll stay with my U9s.
THe Silver Arrow is a very good CPU cooler!
With one Gentle Typhoon 1850 it keeps the CPU cool as the U9s with 2xA9 PMW fans, and the noise is a bit better, thanks to the different and pleasant sound of the 120mm.
BUT, for me this doesn't justify the NOT easy mount of the CPU cooler and the fan with the horrible clips!
The fan of course is bigger in height than the cooler finned part. It is like the D9L, a bit higher with the support of the 120mm fan, no more than this!
But, again, It is a very good cooler! It is not just for me. :)
Here the temp screenshot after AIDA, and actually, I've tested also the L12S with the A12x25 on top, and is only 4/5 degrees worse than the others!

Noctua U9s+2xA9 PMW


Silver Arrow 130+GT 1850 PMW


Noctua L12S+A12x25 on Top
 

Prizm

Chassis Packer
Jan 27, 2019
14
3
Ok, here's my latest attempt to cool my RTX 2060 FE:


Above:
- I moved the PSU across towards this side panel, away from the opposite panel. I flipped the PSU so the fan faces the side panel, however I've noticed the PSU fan rarely turns on, even when gaming.
- I slid the 140mm further towards the left. My intention was to add a 92mm fan next to the 140mm once I get another case rail to mount it to.



Above:
I installed a second 140mm fan next to the motherboard, below where the PSU used to be mounted. This fan acts as as exhaust. All the GPU heat is blown towards this side of the case.




Above:
WTF!? I swear it's running even hotter than before. The GPU still hits 82c under load, and I think it's being throttled because it never goes above 82c. Before I tested it, I adjusted the fan curves in BIOS. As my motherboard idles at around 37c, I adjusted the fans so that they crank up to around 90% speed when the motherboard hits 39-40c. So as soon as I start gaming, the fans kick in at a healthy speed. But it's just not enough.

The interesting thing is that the right-hand side panel (which bears the brunt of all that GPU heat), is a lot cooler to touch now that I installed that second 140mm fan. Previously the panel would get extremely hot. The fan made a big difference to the side panel, but not the actual components o_O

Honestly, I'm about to give up on this case.
 

brt02

Cable-Tie Ninja
Jan 3, 2018
224
234
The interesting thing is that the right-hand side panel (which bears the brunt of all that GPU heat), is a lot cooler to touch now that I installed that second 140mm fan. Previously the panel would get extremely hot. The fan made a big difference to the side panel, but not the actual components o_O.

You have an exhaust fan that's supposed to exhaust hot air out of the case (through a restrictive side panel) and that side panel is now cooler to the touch? Sounds like that fan isn't doing it's job well. I have similar set up to you and that side panel gets really hot -
I would try and figure where all that hot air is going. If the GPU is hitting it's temperature limit (I agree with you that it is), I assume the GPU fans are running at 100%, so there should be a lot of hot air going somewhere

What speeds are those 140mm fans running at? Have you any manual control over them - can you set them to run at 100% all the time? What does that do for temperatures?

I would flip the mounting bracket so that the 140mm intake sits above the GPU and acts as an intake for the CPU only.
Might be worth trying to tidy up the cables from the PSU might help to provide a clearer path for the air to go from the GPU to the exhaust 140mm fan.
Remove the bottom dust filter. I think everyone who has done this has found better GPU temperatures.

Have you tried running the system outside the case? what were your GPU temperatures like then?
 

prava

Cable-Tie Ninja
Mar 21, 2017
171
259
@fabio I still don't understand why you share those images that are literally impossible to understand. 99% of the data points are useless or irrelevant and you have to zoom in just to know the actual temperatures.

I fail the see the point, honestly.
 
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tinyitx

Shrink Ray Wielder
Jan 25, 2018
2,279
2,338
@Prizm
I note several factors which might explain why you have high GPU temp:-
a. the FE is designed to exhaust air from card's top and bottom. Perhaps roughly 50% in each direction. With your current setup, the 140mm intake (on the case's left panel) fan is pushing air against the exhaust air from the card's top, to a certain degree. I do not think it is a good idea. This, more or less, forces some or a good majority of exhaust air to escape in the other direction, thus losing efficiency. I suggest moving the fan up, say, 30mm to clear the exhaust air path from the card's top edge. Let the card's exhaust air comes out more easily and then be drawn away by the air flow above it.

b. On the right side panel, the 140mm case fan is exhausting. This should to remove a good majority of card's exhaust. So, its current position seems good. However, I suspect your NF-P14r does not have enough static pressure to push air through the restrictive holes of the side panel. I suggest trying with a fan with higher static pressure. One test to confirm is to stress the card with the right side panel off and see if the temp drops significantly.

c. Stock boost clock of a 2060 FE is 1680 MHz but you have 1920MHz, indicating the card is having a hefty overclock. A non overclocked 2060 FE should have a stressed temp of about 69-70C. So, 82C might just simply reflect the overclocking?
 

BorG

Caliper Novice
Feb 6, 2019
23
22
www.radiocity.si
Stardate uknown. Log entry 20145. DA2 build epilogue.
My Streacom DA2 black/red build with Scythe Fuma Rev.B eventualy became Streacom DA2 black/red build with Noctua NH-C14S.

As GPU has is modded with Noctua fans (better cooling and noise management) and Noctua is a hard fit for Streacom DA2, both upper and lower dust filters and plastic covers had to be removed.

MB/CPU hover arround 34/35 degrees when idle and don't go over 69 Celsius when gaming. When sides with dush mesh are on, temps on load are 75ish. Content. Case closed. :)
 

bubbl3

Case Shuffler
Jul 3, 2018
149
159
Stardate uknown. Log entry 20145. DA2 build epilogue.
My Streacom DA2 black/red build with Scythe Fuma Rev.B eventualy became Streacom DA2 black/red build with Noctua NH-C14S.

As GPU has is modded with Noctua fans (better cooling and noise management) and Noctua is a hard fit for Streacom DA2, both upper and lower dust filters and plastic covers had to be removed.

MB/CPU hover arround 34/35 degrees when idle and don't go over 69 Celsius when gaming. When sides with dush mesh are on, temps on load are 75ish. Content. Case closed. :)
So basically an open bench, good work on your side, Streacom..... not so much.
 
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tinyitx

Shrink Ray Wielder
Jan 25, 2018
2,279
2,338
MB/CPU hover arround 34/35 degrees when idle and don't go over 69 Celsius when gaming. When sides with dush mesh are on, temps on load are 75ish. Content. Case closed. :)

I see you have the case rear case panel flipped 180-degree and now essentially have an inverted layout with the display card at the top.
What is the rationale behind, may I ask?
Is it because you want the C14S heatpipes pointing down? In fact, I would be curious to see the thermal difference between 'heatpipes pointing up' vs 'heatpipes pointing down'. If you do not mind, would you run a test and note the difference?
 

Rocaxl

Cable Smoosher
Jan 7, 2019
9
5
Stardate uknown. Log entry 20145. DA2 build epilogue.
My Streacom DA2 black/red build with Scythe Fuma Rev.B eventualy became Streacom DA2 black/red build with Noctua NH-C14S.

As GPU has is modded with Noctua fans (better cooling and noise management) and Noctua is a hard fit for Streacom DA2, both upper and lower dust filters and plastic covers had to be removed.

MB/CPU hover arround 34/35 degrees when idle and don't go over 69 Celsius when gaming. When sides with dush mesh are on, temps on load are 75ish. Content. Case closed. :)
So 69C under load is without the side panels or with side panels and no mesh?

Btw - Still waiting on my case to show up, but have been leaning heavily towards a c14s cooler.
 

Prizm

Chassis Packer
Jan 27, 2019
14
3
What speeds are those 140mm fans running at? Have you any manual control over them - can you set them to run at 100% all the time? What does that do for temperatures?
Yes, those are the fans that I set to hit 90% and higher once the motherboard gets to around 39c+. They speed up as soon as I start playing a game.

I would flip the mounting bracket so that the 140mm intake sits above the GPU and acts as an intake for the CPU only.

I suggest moving the fan up, say, 30mm to clear the exhaust air path from the card's top edge. Let the card's exhaust air comes out more easily and then be drawn away by the air flow above it.
Noted!

b. On the right side panel, the 140mm case fan is exhausting. ... I suspect your NF-P14r does not have enough static pressure to push air through the restrictive holes of the side panel. I suggest trying with a fan with higher static pressure.
Interesting point. I also wonder if part of the problem is because these 140mm fans are not secured to the side panels. So the gap between the fan and the panel is killing its effectiveness.

c. Stock boost clock of a 2060 FE is 1680 MHz but you have 1920MHz, indicating the card is having a hefty overclock. A non overclocked 2060 FE should have a stressed temp of about 69-70C. So, 82C might just simply reflect the overclocking?
Now this is surprising. I have not overclocked this card. I wonder if they're designed to have short bursts of overclocking? Note that in the screenshot, it shows the maximum MHz reached. I don't know how long the card was running at that speed. I wonder if it was just a temporary spike.
 

brt02

Cable-Tie Ninja
Jan 3, 2018
224
234
Now this is surprising. I have not overclocked this card. I wonder if they're designed to have short bursts of overclocking? Note that in the screenshot, it shows the maximum MHz reached. I don't know how long the card was running at that speed. I wonder if it was just a temporary spike.

GPU-Z will show you a plot of frequency against time. Other tools will do that do, but GPU-Z requires no setup and is very easy to use.

Nvidia cards will auto overclock if temperature and power limits allow for it (it's called GPU Boost 3). You'll find that frequency decreases as temperature increases. You can use something like MSI afterburner to adjust these power and temperature limits.