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SFF.Network Streacom Launches the DA2
- Thread starter confusis
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The wall thickness of a 6mm heatpipe is 0.3mm (or 0.5mm for a few others). You shaved off at least 2mm at the head end and the tail end. Granted that the wall thickness of the end sealing is thicker but I bet you are coming very close to killing the 4 central heatpipes.This is my setup: 9900K, Silver Arrow ITX-R, one A9x14 fan as intake at botton (in the space let free for the blower GPU) and one A9x14 as exhaust at rear. This heatsink has a height of 147mm, but I filed the heatpipes end's and now it fits fine.
...Opinions?
If the CPU temp is still unreasonably high after removing the side panel, then the problem is unlikely to be related to the airflow. Maybe, as suggested by fabio above, the cooler is not mounted properly. I surely hope it is not caused by one or more of the 4 central heatpipes' leaking/dying.
Sorry, but I don't know if I understood you well (English is not my native language), do you think that the cut of the end of the heatpipes can reduce the capacity of the cooler? When you say kill the heatpipe, you mean stop working and don't cool down?
The truth is that I do not know, I cut them with the confidence that there was no problem ...
![:\](data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7 "Unsure :\")
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If you cut too much the gas may leak and that could very well be why you have bad temperatures.Sorry, but I don't know if I understood you well (English is not my native language), do you think that the cut of the end of the heatpipes can reduce the capacity of the cooler? When you say kill the heatpipe, you mean stop working and don't cool down?
The truth is that I do not know, I cut them with the confidence that there was no problem ...
Sorry, but I don't know if I understood you well (English is not my native language), do you think that the cut of the end of the heatpipes can reduce the capacity of the cooler? When you say kill the heatpipe, you mean stop working and don't cool down?
The truth is that I do not know, I cut them with the confidence that there was no problem ...
Heat pipe works as the liquid inside goes through cycles of evaporation and condensation, transferring heat in the process.
If you file too much off the wall (ie the enclosure portion), the working liquid (eg water) can leak out through cracks and the heat pipe will dry out sooner or later. Even if you do not see any visible cracks, micro fractures (invisible to naked eyes) might develop and working liquid will escape through them. When manufacturing a heat pipe, the ends are sealed and those are usually the weak points of a pipe. Also, when a heat pipe is bent (even doing this very carefully and professionally), the stress induced at the bend might cause micro fractures too.
Yep! Happened to me trying to bend a Thermalright AXP100 Copper to put it in a DAN Case.
Because of the light reflection, it is hard to judge but I suspect 3 of the 4 central heat pipes are damaged. Red arrows point to what looks like a crack/opening at the tips.
If you see an opening at the tip, that heat pipe is dead.
If you see an opening at the tip, that heat pipe is dead.
My Red/Black DA2 build.
RTX dissapointment is the reason I am holding on to my MSI Gaming X 1080ti. As this is red/black card I went red/black Noctua Chromax route.
Temps are decent. Intel i7 8700K remains under 80 under Anthem gaming load.
GPU is arround 80 as well.
M.2 is 500GB Evo with some passive heatsinks, as it was running hot under dust mesh.
Case is hard to build into as there is a variety of possibilities due to case flexibility. That requires some premeditation.
And thinner plastic side cover breaks EVERY SINGLE time you try to pry it out.
Scythe Fuma is just small enough to fit the case, but ram clearance for G.Skill Trident Z is not sufficient, so I will be replacing it with Noctua NH C14S.
But for now rear fan is 92mm Noctua. Used as case air intake fan. Sadly this one doesn't come in chroma variant, hence it remains brown. Will see what can be done about that when I replace CPU fan.
RTX dissapointment is the reason I am holding on to my MSI Gaming X 1080ti. As this is red/black card I went red/black Noctua Chromax route.
Temps are decent. Intel i7 8700K remains under 80 under Anthem gaming load.
GPU is arround 80 as well.
M.2 is 500GB Evo with some passive heatsinks, as it was running hot under dust mesh.
Case is hard to build into as there is a variety of possibilities due to case flexibility. That requires some premeditation.
And thinner plastic side cover breaks EVERY SINGLE time you try to pry it out.
Scythe Fuma is just small enough to fit the case, but ram clearance for G.Skill Trident Z is not sufficient, so I will be replacing it with Noctua NH C14S.
But for now rear fan is 92mm Noctua. Used as case air intake fan. Sadly this one doesn't come in chroma variant, hence it remains brown. Will see what can be done about that when I replace CPU fan.
Nice work, chance is, you are better off without the 92mm fan at the back.My Red/Black DA2 build.
RTX dissapointment is the reason I am holding on to my MSI Gaming X 1080ti. As this is red/black card I went red/black Noctua Chromax route.
Temps are decent. Intel i7 8700K remains under 80 under Anthem gaming load.
GPU is arround 80 as well.
M.2 is 500GB Evo with some passive heatsinks, as it was running hot under dust mesh.
Case is hard to build into as there is a variety of possibilities due to case flexibility. That requires some premeditation.
And thinner plastic side cover breaks EVERY SINGLE time you try to pry it out.
Scythe Fuma is just small enough to fit the case, but ram clearance for G.Skill Trident Z is not sufficient, so I will be replacing it with Noctua NH C14S.
But for now rear fan is 92mm Noctua. Used as case air intake fan. Sadly this one doesn't come in chroma variant, hence it remains brown. Will see what can be done about that when I replace CPU fan.
Noctua will release Chromax A9x14, A9x25 and A12x12 end of Q1/2019 to Q2/2019. Chromax A12x25 should be released till end of the year. Stay strong.
Suddenly, I wrote to Noctua 2 weeks ago about the Chromax, and here they're answer:Noctua will release Chromax A9x14, A9x25 and A12x12 end of Q1/2019 to Q2/2019. Chromax A12x25 should be released till end of the year. Stay strong.
"From today's point of view we are looking at Q3/19 for the new chromax edition models"
Until the NH-C14S arrives, I suggest you double check on the rear fan's direction. You stated above that it is for 'intake' but the pics show it is 'exhaust'. And better double check the direction of the Scythe Fuma fan as well.
Oh man, there is no "clean" way to mount the C14S with the ASrock Z390 ITX. Check My previous post. Because of the slightly moved CPU socket in that board, it's a bit tricky to mount the top fan, and the cooler can be mounted only in 1 position: this means rotating 90 degrees the PSU!My Red/Black DA2 build.
RTX dissapointment is the reason I am holding on to my MSI Gaming X 1080ti. As this is red/black card I went red/black Noctua Chromax route.
Temps are decent. Intel i7 8700K remains under 80 under Anthem gaming load.
GPU is arround 80 as well.
M.2 is 500GB Evo with some passive heatsinks, as it was running hot under dust mesh.
Case is hard to build into as there is a variety of possibilities due to case flexibility. That requires some premeditation.
And thinner plastic side cover breaks EVERY SINGLE time you try to pry it out.
Scythe Fuma is just small enough to fit the case, but ram clearance for G.Skill Trident Z is not sufficient, so I will be replacing it with Noctua NH C14S.
But for now rear fan is 92mm Noctua. Used as case air intake fan. Sadly this one doesn't come in chroma variant, hence it remains brown. Will see what can be done about that when I replace CPU fan.
Hi. For my 9900k build with this box I had discarded the Fuma cooler for its height of 149 mm, 4 mm more than the space available, how could you fit it there?
To compare temperatures, could you do a test with Aida64? I see that the two fans are exhaust, it doesn't seem like a good idea, there is no clear airflow... Which is the direction of CPU fan?
If you put low power components, CPU, GPU and leave the brackets free of fans, cooling, etcetera, there will be plenty of space to shove all the drives you like.
Using the PSU bracket you can attack 3 HDD or 5 SDD, that leaves the side and bottom brackets. Leaving the GPU out should open up even more space to add further stuff in
Yea. I know the numbers, but I suspected it could fit, albeit tightly. I had to slightly bend one of the pipes top, but it did fit. Down to a milimeter.
Oh, man... I am so sorry. Noctua NH C14S already arrived I spent my day figuring how to fit it best. @fabio is totaly on point. There is no clean way to fit C14S into this case. Ended up turnin cooler so that modded GPU is on top (intake) and cooler's top protrudes bottom double dust mesh, which had to be removed as well.
Oh and... Rear 92mm fan from that build was intake, FUMA mid cooler same direction. Keen eye, sir - had it reversed for testing. Wrong setup is +15 degrees Celsius.
Learned 2 interesting things yesterday.
As I tore the build apart I took time and also modded my MSI 1080ti Gaming X. Removed factory cooling (one of blades broke as card is 2.5 slots wide and the blade hit the fatter acrylic sheet adn broke off), replaced with 2 Noctua NF-F12 PWM chromax. Hardest part was modifing standard 4pin PWM connector to fit GPU onboard connector. But happy to report GPU runs cooler and more silent. Also fans stop as originaly designed.
Also when trying different orientations for C14S I realized that inner power extension cord can be pulled apart if needed.
No pictures of this second version of black/red as I am waiting for 140mm cromax Noctua.
But will do Aida64 stress test and post results today.
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