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SFF.Network Streacom Launches the DA2
- Thread starter confusis
- Start date
I correct myself as I checked with Corsair which states this mounting is proper.
Corsair link:- https://www.corsair.com/ww/es/blog/faq-mounting-your-hydro-series-h50-h70-to-socket-1155
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I just had to do the same damn thing for my RTX 2060! Not impressed, Streacom. The metal SFX bracket also wasn't the best either. The screw holes didn't quite align exactly with the Corsair SF600, so one screw had to be slightly misthreaded.
For the PSU, just use 2mm washer, they solve the problem! About the DisplayPort, I agree, but for example, my EIZO cable, that is thinner, worked with no problem! Other DP cables don't, in my case.
Very helpful, thank you!
I was trying to find a slimline displayport cable (or whatever you might call it), but they all seemed to have thick bezels around the plug. So I just cut the cable. I will see if I can locate a similar replacement. Do you have a link to the image of the plug so I can get an idea how thick it is?
I had a look, but I didn't get a metal file with my DA2... maybe Streacom should include one for revision 2
Here's another problem I had with this build. I put everything together and it kept shorting out. I would press the power button, but it kept shutting down and restarting a few seconds later. After pulling it all apart and installing each component one-by-one, it didn't short out again until I installed the rear M.2 drive:
Once I installed this drive, the motherboard seemed to short out again (it powered on but it reset a couple seconds later, stuck in a loop). I took the screw out and wedged a plastic pen lid under the rail to hold the M.2 drive down. This time it booted fine. I put the screw back in but this time I didn't screw it too tight and the PC still booted ok.
So I can only conclude it had something do with the installation of this drive. Possibly the M.2 screw was a little too tight, or perhaps the M.2 drive was at a slight angle, causing it to be too close to one of those silver screws above and below the drive? I haven't had a problem since, but I wonder if anyone else has had a similar issue.
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So I turned on Prime SmallFFTs at stock and the CPU immediately went to 100 degrees. Decided not to test 5ghz just yet.
Looks like H7 Ultra won't help that much. Will report back after I figure out undervolting.
Is this a repeatable problem? I mean, screw down the M.2 drive tight and it goes into a booting loop while screwing not as tight will make it boot right up?
I've had this happen where the SSD shorts out some components on the motherboard underneath it. This might be what is happening here and might explain why the issue only arises when you tighten it down fully.
You could try placing some electrical tape over any components that you think short out and seeing if the issue goes away.
Thanks for the replies, I'm a bit afraid to mess with it as this build has been a bit frustrating already. After further investigation, it's possibly a RAM timing issue where the BIOS itself was restarting the system to adjust for stable RAM settings. I will post a separate thread so as not to hijack this one.
Yes, I confirm that the ASRock Z390 is not a great Ram Overclockers with 16gb modules.
This could be a good option for the DA2:
https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/SilentiumPC/Spartan_3_PRO_RGB/
https://www.silentiumpc.com/en/product/spartan-3-pro-rgb-he1024/
https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/SilentiumPC/Spartan_3_PRO_RGB/
https://www.silentiumpc.com/en/product/spartan-3-pro-rgb-he1024/
Slimmer than the Noctua, but kinda the same performance. It would help if the mobo has some compatibility issues with the U9S.
On another topic I'm unhappy to report that i've started to give up on the DA2 and looking up other case options that can house the FTW3 with better cooling performance.
On another topic I'm unhappy to report that i've started to give up on the DA2 and looking up other case options that can house the FTW3 with better cooling performance.
I am currently checking out the new Deng F15. See if it is your cup of tea?
A sample build:- https://www.chiphell.com/thread-1955925-1-1.html
Any thoughts on reducing GPU temperature in my case? The RTX 2060 Founders Edition is getting really hot during load (82c max). It blows all the hot air to the right side of the case and the right panel starts to get very hot. I have no intention of overclocking, and I only want to use fans (no elaborate setups).
(above) That's a 140mm Noctua Redux. Right now I'm thinking of adding a second one next to it. I can't slide it all the way to the left because it then bumps against the 92mm Redux facing rear. The 92mm could be moved though. I took off that magnet mesh panel because I'm pretty sure it just blocks too much airflow.
(above) An inside view of the gap between the 140mm fan and the RTX 2060 FE. It seems to fit without touching.
(above) All that hot air from the GPU blows straight onto the motherboard, cooking my 2x M.2 drives The case panel on this side gets alarmingly hot, probably because it's pure aluminum.
Actually, the SSDs, CPU and motherboard all seem to have tolerable temperatures (unless someone suggests otherwise?), my main concern is the GPU.
I could look into mounting the 92mm Redux below the PSU here as an exhaust. The 92mm fan is currently an exhaust on the rear of the case, but I honestly doubt it's having much of an effect there because all the heat seems to be driven to the right-hand side.
Also, as someone suggested in this thread, I could slide the PSU back towards the opposite side panel. That would give more room for a fan on this side. Or possibly just more breathing room.
Max temperatures:
From my brief observations, the average GPU temp under load is around high 70s (celcius).
(above) That's a 140mm Noctua Redux. Right now I'm thinking of adding a second one next to it. I can't slide it all the way to the left because it then bumps against the 92mm Redux facing rear. The 92mm could be moved though. I took off that magnet mesh panel because I'm pretty sure it just blocks too much airflow.
(above) An inside view of the gap between the 140mm fan and the RTX 2060 FE. It seems to fit without touching.
(above) All that hot air from the GPU blows straight onto the motherboard, cooking my 2x M.2 drives
The case panel on this side gets alarmingly hot, probably because it's pure aluminum.Actually, the SSDs, CPU and motherboard all seem to have tolerable temperatures (unless someone suggests otherwise?), my main concern is the GPU.
I could look into mounting the 92mm Redux below the PSU here as an exhaust. The 92mm fan is currently an exhaust on the rear of the case, but I honestly doubt it's having much of an effect there because all the heat seems to be driven to the right-hand side.
Also, as someone suggested in this thread, I could slide the PSU back towards the opposite side panel. That would give more room for a fan on this side. Or possibly just more breathing room.
Max temperatures:
From my brief observations, the average GPU temp under load is around high 70s (celcius).
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1. Remove bottom dust filter, it's a major choke and it helps
2. I haven't tried it personally cause in my case there isn't that much space (GPU is properly massive but wanted to do so and i believe it should help. Position another fan to move around the stale hot air produced by the card somewhere on the back.
2. I haven't tried it personally cause in my case there isn't that much space (GPU is properly massive but wanted to do so and i believe it should help. Position another fan to move around the stale hot air produced by the card somewhere on the back.
I've gotta say, definitely like the looks of this case, and the two bottom fans will sure help with the 80+ degrees GPU. I'm not sure how the air will flow in it though. And looking from the back bottom and top it feels unfinished, massive gaps on the gpu slots, massive top and bottom grates. This will be one to clean every other day
I'm building this PC as my personal one for use. Just wanna get it done. It's been the most problematic i've had till date and i've had to cut CPU coolers in the past to fit on a mobo. True though, haven't spend much time in it.
IMHO, solving or tolerating a dust problem is more easier than a thermal one, especially in the context of small cases. And, thermal problem is most often the paramount issue, especially for small cases (rather than dust issue or cable management issue).I've gotta say, definitely like the looks of this case, and the two bottom fans will sure help with the 80+ degrees GPU. I'm not sure how the air will flow in it though. And looking from the back bottom and top it feels unfinished, massive gaps on the gpu slots, massive top and bottom grates. This will be one to clean every other day
Come to think of this, when reading all the build threads here, I notice there are many more people who say ''I need to find a case to give me better thermals'' than people who say ''I need to find a less dusty case''.
Anyway, back to the Deng F15, its main design goal is to provide max air cooling (for the current window side panel) and that is why there are so many massive openings. I reckon, the two 140mm intake fans will render the case to be positive pressure. Therefore, putting a filter at the bottom (not so restrictive as the DA2's) will keep the dust issue at bay. Additionally, each opening is large enough to let air escape easily (not so restrictive as DA2's) without the need for additional exhaust fans. This is just my theory. I am looking for some builds with internal exhausting display cards as I really want to see how if the case's numerous massive sized openings can give good thermals.
I personally quite like the minimalistic design though.
The F15 is definitely a nice case.
Regarding airflow vs dust, I think the real issue is to find a good enough compromise and I don't feel the DA2 does a good job at that.
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