While I'm not familiar with either CPU, I highly doubt you'll notice a difference in temps, simply by switching to the Skyreach... It IS a great case though.
SKYREACH 4 MINI (S4M)
- Thread starter Josh | NFC
- Start date
While I'm not familiar with either CPU, I highly doubt you'll notice a difference in temps, simply by switching to the Skyreach... It IS a great case though.
Hi all! New to minis but not to computer building. Still in my research phase.
Seeing as I've now found a Classic I'm considering buying, I have a couple of questions for you fine gentlemen :
1. Also found a new, but unused, hdplex 400w dc-atx unit. I think it's the ideal unit for the mini but, my question is : what terminal does it have to connect to the brick? I mean, where/how does the unit "end" and connect to the case? Is it a simple small round opening, for me to use the standard 330w Dell bricks? Or will I need to do some mods? (Not afraid of those, just asking.)
2. GPU orientation : for now, I'll only use a 1050, but will likely upgrade later. But, isn't the downward GPU orientation of the mini an issue if laying the case horizontally...? I think mine would spend most of its time horizontal.
Thanks much!
Seeing as I've now found a Classic I'm considering buying, I have a couple of questions for you fine gentlemen :
1. Also found a new, but unused, hdplex 400w dc-atx unit. I think it's the ideal unit for the mini but, my question is : what terminal does it have to connect to the brick? I mean, where/how does the unit "end" and connect to the case? Is it a simple small round opening, for me to use the standard 330w Dell bricks? Or will I need to do some mods? (Not afraid of those, just asking.)
2. GPU orientation : for now, I'll only use a 1050, but will likely upgrade later. But, isn't the downward GPU orientation of the mini an issue if laying the case horizontally...? I think mine would spend most of its time horizontal.
Thanks much!
Hey man,
Here are some answers for you...
1) I had the same question, but only because on the website for the HDPLEX, I couldn't see the tab for Package Contents. On there, it notes "1 x 7.4x5.0mm with Center PIN(Ground) DC Input to 6PIN Molex (45cm) Black Color." That will be your main power connector to hook up to an external brick, assuming you buy the unit directly from them. If you're purchasing the PSU from an individual, then just make sure that you're getting everything that comes in the package.
2) Keeping the case horizontal, with the GPU facing down would definitely not allow as much airflow on that side of the case, however, Josh from NFC offers some case feet on his site that raises the the unit up some, and allows a bit more air to flow through that section.
I haven't actually checked power consumption at the wall, so can't help you there, but here are my thoughts...
What motherboard are you using? You mentioned having an ASUS Z370-I board. The numbers below assume you are using that board along with a 8700K, and running Prime 95 (no AVX).
The bios on that board sets package power consumption to 95W by default. So when running a CPU intensive task, the CPU will boost to 4.3Ghz as normal and draw somewhere in the region of 125W, before the motherboard throttles the CPU to about 3.7 GHz to bring power consumption back down to 95W. Intel XTU is very good tool for showing where throttling occurs.
Undervolting to about 1.12V (-0.06V offset), brought power consumption down to an average of 90W, so realistically you're not saving much power compared to stock settings. The bigger gain comes from being able to boost and maintain a stable 4.3GHz as you can now do so within the 95W limit set in the BIOS. Temperatures are reduced too.
I hope I've explained this in a manner that can be understood, good luck with the build, I really like the wrap you've used.
I have an i5-8400 right now and yes, the Asus Z370i and plan on sticking to that setup. The CPU caps out at 4.1ghz for me but I haven't played around with it too much, nor do I know just how close the power draw is, to the advertised 65w. I figure I'm really not going to be dropping voltage or wattage hardly at all, but I AM pretty curious what I can do.
My HDPLEX was delivered today, per the tracking notifications, and I'll probably shorten the wires this weekend to get it ready for the case... Assuming I can get a pin removal tool in town. I'm waiting to buy the Zotac 1080 mini before I completely finish the build. Right now, I have my reference 970 sticking out the front lol. I've had the other side panel done for a while now but I don't have any pictures of it.
In the BIOS, set IA AC load line and IA DC load line = 0.01
Saw much bigger power savings with that than with the undervolt and as a bonus does not affect stability. So try that first and see where you are after that.
I don't really see the need for de-liding or undervolting an i5-8400, it's a great CPU for this chassis.
EDIT: TDP is 65W, not power draw. At turbo frequencies expect to be pulling significantly more than 65W
Saw much bigger power savings with that than with the undervolt and as a bonus does not affect stability. So try that first and see where you are after that.
I don't really see the need for de-liding or undervolting an i5-8400, it's a great CPU for this chassis.
EDIT: TDP is 65W, not power draw. At turbo frequencies expect to be pulling significantly more than 65W
I wasn't planning on de-lidding. There's no point to it on the 8400. The undervolt was just an interest in getting the CPU to perform on a more efficient level, without creating additional heat.
I planned on doing a bit of BIOS tweaking this weekend, and the IA AC and DC lines was going to be something that I was going to change for sure.
I have a question for folks who uses two external bricks (2x Dell 330w, in my case). I’ve looked quite a bit, but couldn’t find examples of how folks implement the two DC input connectors for the AC/DC bricks.
Currently I have one of the DC input connector PCB mounted per @Josh | NFC‘s design intent, but wanted to see if there’re examples of a preferred mounting location of the second DC input before I start modding the connector or the case.
Currently I have one of the DC input connector PCB mounted per @Josh | NFC‘s design intent, but wanted to see if there’re examples of a preferred mounting location of the second DC input before I start modding the connector or the case.
Another question please. I have a line on an S4M Classic. Could iI kindly ask someone to confirm that both the hdplex 400w dc-atx unit, and the hdplex160w ac-dc unit, will fit inside the case, for a brickless build? For those worried about power requirements : that'd be using an i3-7350k with mild overclock, and a Zotac 1050 mini (which I think leaves me room for the ac-dc unit in front of the gpu).
Thanks!
EDIT : Disregard, just found KMPKT's Orangulan. Tells me what I need to know.
Thanks!
EDIT : Disregard, just found KMPKT's Orangulan. Tells me what I need to know.
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Not sure if this has been mentioned here before, but I managed to comfortably fit a Noctua A9x14 fan on the SkyBracket Duo alongside my 2TB Firecuda mounted behind the GPU. I’m using a Gigabyte 1080 mini.
I added it as an exhaust fan in hopes it would help lower my CPU temps, which I have been struggling with, especially while playing GTA V.
I added it as an exhaust fan in hopes it would help lower my CPU temps, which I have been struggling with, especially while playing GTA V.
After a 45min session of GTA V the CPU was still hitting 95C.
I have tried re-seating the CPU heatsink to no avail.
I think the issue is hot air from the GPU being bounced off the front bezel and back into the case and then being recirculated by the Noctua L9i. My plan is to order a bezel from Josh with the SkySlots to help get the hot air out of the case.
Other games like WoW and Forza 7 only cause the CPU to hit ~65C.
I've seen some people make a divider to put between the gpu and cpu to prevent them from sharing air. Can be as simple as a piece of cardboard cut to fit around the pcie cable.
I hooked everything up tonight, but am having issues. The PC continuously restarts, and it seems like it does it at random times. I've tried keeping an eye on temps and wattage though Hardware Monitor, but nothing seems out of the ordinary. Everything worked before I went to the HDPLEX and brick setup, so I know it's not the main components. Is there a way that I can test the brick?
I was having the same problem, but mostly under gpu stress load. Does it restart even just at idle, or during cpu stress load, or gpu stress load?
Mine problem was getting enough power to the gpu. I’ve tried 4 different ACDC bricks (2x Dell 330w, 1x HP VooDoo, and the HDPlex 300w ACDC), and the restarts are still there. The only way for me to stop the restarts was to set power limit for my gtx1080 down to 50% in MSI afterburner.
I’m waiting for a second HDPlex 400 DCATX to arrive, but in the mean time, I picked up a HDPlex 160w DCATX and a dual-PSU power adapter, and running my system with two Dell 330w ac adapters. The restarts would stop, and i can set my gpu back to 100%, and can game and run cad/render programs. I still can’t run prime 95 max power consumption + heaven though, it would shutdown. I’d have to unplug everything to get it to power up again. I only tried this once as I had though my pc was dead after the hard crash.
Hopefully this long answer gives you some insight...
I'm still running tests, to see if I can replicate the restart consistently... Nothing solid though. I'll let you know what I find, if I can actually come to a conclusion. It's frustrating though.
I think it IS a power related issue with the brick though, when overclocking and changing voltage. I set the CPU and GPU back to default settings, and let the computer idle for a bit this morning... Nothing. Played a movie, and did some basic internet stuff... Nothing. Now I'm gaming, and it seems to be ok. I may say screw it though and get the EuroCom brick, even though it's stupid expensive.
*EDIT*
I managed to play games all day yesturday (when I made this post), and not get a restart. I'm going to slowly start overclocking things again to see where my limit is.
*EDIT*
I managed to play games all day yesturday (when I made this post), and not get a restart. I'm going to slowly start overclocking things again to see where my limit is.
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@Josh | NFC I found a local user selling a S4 mini which was sanded and spray painted white (image below). How hard would it be to remove the white paint and would the surface underneath still look OK? Thanks.
https://i.imgur.com/VKOYM2e.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/VKOYM2e.jpg
Honestly, it just depends on how the person you bought it from painted the panels, what paint and process he used, and how good of a job he did. The outcome of how it would look, after it was sanded down again, is completely up to how much effort you put into it.
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