Unfortunately, manufacturer support varies a lot. I ended up knocking out my Obins Anne Pro's LEDs with Obins own firmware. Now to find another version of the firmware and hope that it works.
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"SFF" Keyboards
- Thread starter iFreilicht
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- keyboard mechanical
Yeah I do remember having to just manually dim mine down and then raising back up when I wanted it.
Coolermaster CK620:
- Cherry MX Low Profile
- Backlit (RGB)
- 60% layout
- Bluetooth + USB
Not my cup of tea (1800 is the smallest I'll go) but this looks about the smallest you can get a mechanical keyboard - beyond shaving the edges of the frame off to gain a few mm - without designing your own switches.
- Cherry MX Low Profile
- Backlit (RGB)
- 60% layout
- Bluetooth + USB
Not my cup of tea (1800 is the smallest I'll go) but this looks about the smallest you can get a mechanical keyboard - beyond shaving the edges of the frame off to gain a few mm - without designing your own switches.
I see that CK620 and raise a Koda.Coolermaster CK620:
- Cherry MX Low Profile
- Backlit (RGB)
- 60% layout
- Bluetooth + USB
Not my cup of tea (1800 is the smallest I'll go) but this looks about the smallest you can get a mechanical keyboard - beyond shaving the edges of the frame off to gain a few mm - without designing your own switches.
40% has been around forever. You guys need to visit geekhack sometime. 
Back to relevant information instead of a pissing match the \| key above enter on the Drevo Calibur pulses the way it does because it is indicating it's in programmable mode. Which is annoying and I wish I knew it would do that without emailing the company. And there's no way to change that unless you flash it/take it out of programmable mode. So, just to let everyone know that. Other than that minor thing that drives me nuts because I'm particular, I love the keyboard and an quickly adapting to the reduced layout. I've had 0 issues with Bluetooth as well.
the \| key above enter on the Drevo Calibur pulses the way it does because it is indicating it's in programmable mode. Which is annoying and I wish I knew it would do that without emailing the company. And there's no way to change that unless you flash it/take it out of programmable mode. So, just to let everyone know that. Other than that minor thing that drives me nuts because I'm particular, I love the keyboard and an quickly adapting to the reduced layout. I've had 0 issues with Bluetooth as well.
So I'm in the middle of opening the old Desko keyboard to harvest the switches (they're vintage Cherry MX clear (or white, or "milky", and feels similar BUT NOT exactly like a brown). However, I found the switches rather... weird.
From what I know, Cherry MX switches have 2 metal "legs", right.. how come these have like.. 4? Do note that, there are no LEDs in the switches.
There's something inside the switch, which looks like a... resistor? But what's the purpose of the resistor?
Would appreciate if someone can explain this.
From what I know, Cherry MX switches have 2 metal "legs", right.. how come these have like.. 4? Do note that, there are no LEDs in the switches.
There's something inside the switch, which looks like a... resistor? But what's the purpose of the resistor?
Would appreciate if someone can explain this.
I'm kinda sad because in 10th grade a few years ago, I thought of making a touchscreen keyboard without physical keys that plugs into HDMI/DP and USB... And then ASUS went ahead and did that
Although tactile feedback would be trash...
When I head to China later this summer I will pick up a USB male to PS2 female keyboard adapter so I can use an old IBM (non-Model M but still good) keyboard with my computer and my modern Dell monitor/Logitech mouse
Although tactile feedback would be trash...
When I head to China later this summer I will pick up a USB male to PS2 female keyboard adapter so I can use an old IBM (non-Model M but still good) keyboard with my computer and my modern Dell monitor/Logitech mouse
If you look at the picture of the top of the PCB, you'll see that sitting right underneath the front portion of the switches are diodes. The switches can be used in another PCB easily. You just have to desolder them like normal.
So.. I can just desolder these switches & use it on other PCB like normal, right? Can I also use per-key LED with these switches?
* Edit:
Maybe a use case would be better:
Say I want to use these switches with this kit: https://kbdfans.cn/collections/diy-kit/products/kbd75-keyboard-set, and I want to add per-key LED. So what should I do?
(I'm quite a noob in keyboard building & electronics in general)
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I have enough mech keyboards, this is just for fun & learning experience
also, as of now I don't know whether I'll build a new keyboard or just to sell the switches.I don't have a desolder gun but I can get a desolder pump or perhaps desoldering wick. Lame, I know, but better than nothing.
Yes you can. You will need a desolder pump and desolder wick. Also be careful when desoldering and soldering the switches. Too much heat will kill them.
To me 60% has been the best overall function/size keyboard. Love my iKBC Poker II (type-c)
@Soul_Est, thanks for the info.
And to be able to use in-switch LEDs, I assume I need to open the switches & remove the existing diodes?
(I don't really need in-switch LED - I just want to know the options I have & how to achieve them)
Oh no. You don't have to open the switches at all. The diodes are under the switches. When you put in the LEDs, just drop then into the small cut out area in the Switch housing. I'll try and find a good video that shows what I mean.
Just moved back to a full sized board CoolerMaster Masterkeys Pro L. I just couldn't live without the NumPad!
CoolerMaster Masterkeys Pro L. I just couldn't live without the NumPad!Similar threads
