Wait a minute... I only can see black keys floating in thin air?! Has this been photo-shopped or something? ;-p
Getting peripheral accessories ready...
WOW! I like the button press of that E-switch, and it's small size! does the switch Josh sells compare more with the left or the right one?here we go.
Mod-smart/ E-switch from Mouser | Mod-smart/ E-switch from Mouser
the e-switch is 20mm end-to end, and the mod-smart is about 35mm end to end
Edit:
I prefer the tactile feel of the e-switch to the modsmart
The mod-smart is a light click, and the E-switch is more of a ka-chunk
Plus stainless looks better to me than the nickel or whatever finish the MS has.
I'm not sure, he would have to weigh in on that since I don't have one of the ones he offers.WOW! I like the button press of that E-switch, and it's small size! does the switch Josh sells compare more with the left or the right one?
Or what about this metal mesh from Caselabs? I bought one and recieved it recently, I was thinking about extending the GPU cutout on the S4 mini to mount this and just run the S4mini without a bezel. But I think it's too big of a cover, I might consider cutting the cover, and rebending it to fit inside the current cutout. But this would be a last resort if I really couldn't get the bezel to fit over the card, and had to run the case without a bezel, lol. I'm sorry guys, I'm just too in love with the Wrap-around bezel that I'd do anything to keep it and the 1080mini!
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But aside from all this bezel talk, as a sidenote, @Zero was technically able to show us that the 1080mini DOES fit inside the S4 mini if you remove the bezel and it DOES require removing the bezel in order to slide it in... so I'd say it's safe to say that it does fit inside the S4 mini (with a caveat). If someone doesn't mind not having the bezel and having the card slightly stick out the front, it WILL fit without modding the card, which is awesome.
Zero, you gotta stay positive bro! Maybe we can slide the fans/shroud to the left a bit by adjusting the mount? Maybe we do that by cutting the left edge of the shroud by the GPU inputs?Again, everyone should forget about getting the 1080 Mini to fit with the bezel on, it's not going to happen. If you removed the 1080's bezel, and chiseled into the S4 bezel, I'm pretty sure the fan blades would still strike it.
If you're going to go through that level of work, you could simply take the entire cooler off the 1080, at which point you'd have a bare ITX-length GPU, and could try attaching an alternative cooler or water loop.
The Caselabs mesh looks to be like it could work. The three screw holes going across the GPU slot are exactly 6 inches across. Does anyone have insight as to the distance between the holes on that Caselabs mesh? It if is a little smaller, you could clear the holes on the case and use washers to clamp it on.
Josh's is definitely closer to the smaller one (I ordered one). Which is a good thing as the wires coming out of the power button collided with my 24 pin.WOW! I like the button press of that E-switch, and it's small size! does the switch Josh sells compare more with the left or the right one?
Also @Zero , I own that mesh from Caselabs, here's a pic of the measurement, with the screw holes lined up to zero, the others line up to 6in & 3/8ths.
Anyone have any ideas if that Caselabs mesh would work if someone wanted to run the 1080mini inside the S4-mini with the bezel off?
For all who were wondering, with the S4 Mini soft-clamped (in order to obtain the closest distance the lid could feasibly get to the RAM), the G.Skill Trident Z memory along with the ASUS Strix Z270i Gaming motherboard has plenty (in my opinion) of clearance. From the top of the tallest fin to the bottom of the lid of the case, clamped, there is 5.63mm of clearance.
Thanks for the info @Zero , we look forward to seeing your post on that mesh cover on Tuesday!Eyeballing that picture and my own case with the 1080 in it, I'd say yes, that looks like it would work perfectly as long as you widen the pre-existing holes in the S4 by 1/8-inch each (or you could just use strong glue or double-sided tape). The opening for the GPU slot itself is 4 3/4" x 1 3/4" inches, by the way.
In any event, I found some on Amazon Prime, so I snagged one to try it myself on Tuesday:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BFNV4KK/?tag=theminutiae-20
Would anyone know how many millimeters of clearance from the top of the case a "normal" ram stick would be?
I ordered a couple types of slim 140mm fans (Cryorig CR-XTA 140mm x 13mm, RAIJINTEK Aeolus a-BB 140mm x 13mm, and I already have some Prolimatech Ultra Sleek Vortex 140mm x 15mm) so I was going to see if I could fit one of those fans over the ram and CPU heatsink and get better cooling than those 92 or 120mm fans that you get on most CPU coolers.
One annoying thing is that there is desktop-compatible VLP (Very Low Profile) ram in DDR3 from a variety of manufacturers, but even after all this time there is absolutely no VLP DDR4 for desktops. There's lots of VLP for servers but that is ECC ram which won't work with desktop.
Would anyone know how many millimeters of clearance from the top of the case a "normal" ram stick would be?
I ordered a couple types of slim 140mm fans (Cryorig CR-XTA 140mm x 13mm, RAIJINTEK Aeolus a-BB 140mm x 13mm, and I already have some Prolimatech Ultra Sleek Vortex 140mm x 15mm) so I was going to see if I could fit one of those fans over the ram and CPU heatsink and get better cooling than those 92 or 120mm fans that you get on most CPU coolers.
One annoying thing is that there is desktop-compatible VLP (Very Low Profile) ram in DDR3 from a variety of manufacturers, but even after all this time there is absolutely no VLP DDR4 for desktops. There's lots of VLP for servers but that is ECC ram which won't work with desktop.