S4 MINI Classic (S4M-C)
- Thread starter Josh | NFC
- Start date
My S4 arrived to Finland 3 weeks ago from Josh's workshop. Been enjoying it a lot!
Went with the "safe" options that seemed to have worked IRL situations for other ppl.
6700
Asus Z170i Pro gaming
16 gigs of Gskill value 2133mhz
Samsung M.2 850 Evo 500GB
Zotac GTX970
HDplex 250W
Voodoo 350W brick
Has so far handled everything I've thrown at it even at 4k resolution. Future might hold a new paint job , better cabling and Pascal / Polaris GPU's once they are available.
Went with the "safe" options that seemed to have worked IRL situations for other ppl.
6700
Asus Z170i Pro gaming
16 gigs of Gskill value 2133mhz
Samsung M.2 850 Evo 500GB
Zotac GTX970
HDplex 250W
Voodoo 350W brick
Has so far handled everything I've thrown at it even at 4k resolution. Future might hold a new paint job , better cabling and Pascal / Polaris GPU's once they are available.
Well, I've just finished to install windows on my new setup.
I've managed to make some benchmarks, even if everything is without case ( nfc s4 mini still on its way..
)
Finally I've focused my studies on my cpu cooler id-vc45.
Best orientation : eject hot air towards pci-e (parallel to i/o shield)
Fan used : noctua 92mmx14mm
Results with core i7 6700k not oc and not underclock (stock)
I've managed to make some benchmarks, even if everything is without case ( nfc s4 mini still on its way..
)Finally I've focused my studies on my cpu cooler id-vc45.
Best orientation : eject hot air towards pci-e (parallel to i/o shield)
Fan used : noctua 92mmx14mm
Results with core i7 6700k not oc and not underclock (stock)
- If id-vc45 oriented towards ram/io shield : occt stops due to thermal limit after 2min
- If id-vc45 oriented towards pci-e : occt does not stop. No thermal throttle. Max temperature on core : around 80°c. It's pretty interesting that temperature is varying like a cycle...it seems to be logical due to vapor chamber nature of the cooling. I will post a picture by tomorrow..
Well, I didn't receive yet my S4 Mini..
Currently all my tests are outside the case..Well I've started my build thread :
https://smallformfactor.net/forum/threads/nfc-s4-mini-enthousiast-version-core-i7-6700k-r9-nano.642/
Hehe I've just discovered a video that illustrates perfectly "bro bro" or motorcyle coil whining of R9 Nano
Say guys. Ive opened up this chassis a LOT and many of the screw holes have chipped powder coating. Is there a better way to seal and hide the damage than using a sharpie? Im fine with scrapes along the screwholes but I don't want the damage to expand.
Is it possible to buy a bare metal frame that isn't powder coated/painted? If so what would the cost be?
I can repaint it for you or swap it with a new set. If I'm not mistaken you got one of the first minis from the factory I ended up repainting myself because they did a crap job. You can just mail me the panels.
Last edited:
I do have some stripped panels I was going to be powdercoating. I had to pay to strip them so your cost would be the same (150). The frame is anodized though so its black no matter what. It does work very nicely with primers or powders though and shouldn't need any stripping.
On the topic of paint I will be posting the new "ready to go" powdercoats this week on this forum as a preview. I have a glacier white, a new black texture, an orange, and the ultra limited "Gunmetal Diamond."
I too was curious about the option to buy one of these cases with a clear anodized front instead of the stock black anodized one. If not I'll go the DIY route and bend a thick piece of aluminum myself (I have hand tools only so it will probably be hard to do right )
)
It's guage 4 so you might need a brake that's at least 20 tons and the proper die to bend it without cracking it. If you can find a alloy that you can bend in your shopping results because I'd love to come up with some different variants I can offer!
If you are brave you could try soaking the black one with greased lightning with extract the dye. but I don't think it would ever be perfectly bright without a polish first. Sanding it down, polishing, then brushing is how I would go about it. Then I'd probably clear coat as its a big part to home anodize.
If you are brave you could try soaking the black one with greased lightning with extract the dye. but I don't think it would ever be perfectly bright without a polish first. Sanding it down, polishing, then brushing is how I would go about it. Then I'd probably clear coat as its a big part to home anodize.
Thats extremely generous of you Josh! It doesn't bother me so much that I'd put you through that at the moment, but I'll keep the offer in mind.
BTW I just finished cutting and sleeving all the cables in my build. If I could do it all again... I wouldn't. Hands are more raw than ahi tuna
