So YOU are the one on r/sffpc that made me super jealous this morning.
S4 MINI Classic (S4M-C)
- Thread starter Josh | NFC
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So YOU are the one on r/sffpc that made me super jealous this morning.
Curiosity
Too busy figuring out if I can to think if I shoul
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- Apr 30, 2016
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The OEM of the riser (HDPLEX) has a German shipping location. Out of stock at the moment, though: http://www.hd-plex.com/HDPLEX-Silicon-PCIEx16-3.0-Flexible-Riser.html
These should work, @Josh | NFC may or may not be able to confirm. I have one of the Sintechs and it has worked fine in my not an S4 mini build.
https://www.amazon.de/PCI-E-Express...&qid=1488958416&sr=8-1&keywords=sintech+riser (Sintech 5CM riser [Amazon DE])
https://www.amazon.co.uk/PCI-E-Expr...&qid=1488958328&sr=8-4&keywords=sintech+riser (Sintech 5CM riser [Amazon UK])
Hmmm... reading about the VRM heatrsink fitment issues worries me, especially if the LP53 is going to outperform the NH-L9i if we mount the NF-A914xPWM onto it and can get the heatsink mounted with the fins in the proper "parallel to RAM" orientation inside the S4... I really hope your extended testing goes well @Josh | NFC
But in the meantime, I have an IDEA! What about removing the VRM heatsink on the rear I/O of the STRIX z270i all together? and buying some thermal pads and squeezing the pads between the VRMs and the heatpipes that stick out? Kinda using the CPU's heatpipes to ... ah nevermind the heatpipes would get way too hot as they cool the CPU and then the VRMS would cook... CRAP! Wait what about just straight up removing that one VRM heatsink on the Rear I/O so the long curved ends of the heatpipes can fit above them? Do the VRMs really need that heatsink anyway?
OR What about removing the low-profile M.2 heatsink and placing it on the Rear I/O VRMS with a thermal pad? Oooh I like where that idea goes.
no, the tips of the heatpipes would be in the way to.
yeah! a full copper L9i would be nice
UGHHHH I hate all this speculation I'm having regarding LP53 fitment... I can't wait to just get mine in already so I can put all these questions to rest and find a solution. I know I'm a whore for lower CPU temps in the S4 mini, but can you blame me? I want to run a 7700K in there and want it to run as cool as possible under load on air, pre-delid. :/
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VRMs are happy at over 100° (normally 125°C limit on the VRMs and MOSFETs for 'overclocking' boards), no danger of the CPU cooking them.
@spintje
@CubanLegend
Here are the pictures of my S4 and the pictures to explain how I got the HDPLEX DC/DC adapter in with the 1070.
Basically, just turn the adapter around backwards, screw in the bottom screw, and then angle it off to the side so that you can put the 1070 in. DO NOT FORGET TO PLUG IN THE 6+2PIN FOR THE CARD BEFORE PUTTING IT IN THE CASE LIKE I DID. Once the card is in the case just fenagle the DC/DC adapter to get it in position to screw in the other screw. Don't worry if the card looks off-kilter, when you put in the PCI extension card (which is hella stiff) it will even out the card.
@CubanLegend
Here are the pictures of my S4
and the pictures to explain how I got the HDPLEX DC/DC adapter in with the 1070.
Basically, just turn the adapter around backwards, screw in the bottom screw, and then angle it off to the side so that you can put the 1070 in. DO NOT FORGET TO PLUG IN THE 6+2PIN FOR THE CARD BEFORE PUTTING IT IN THE CASE LIKE I DID. Once the card is in the case just fenagle the DC/DC adapter to get it in position to screw in the other screw. Don't worry if the card looks off-kilter, when you put in the PCI extension card (which is hella stiff) it will even out the card.
nice work bro. That's basically how my DC/DC jack is mounted too, only difference is there's a bit of the metal frame cut (by Josh) since the 1080's backplate interfered.@spintje
@CubanLegend
Here are the pictures of my S4
Basically, just turn the adapter around backwards, screw in the bottom screw, and then angle it off to the side so that you can put the 1070 in. DO NOT FORGET TO PLUG IN THE 6+2PIN FOR THE CARD BEFORE PUTTING IT IN THE CASE LIKE I DID. Once the card is in the case just fenagle the DC/DC adapter to get it in position to screw in the other screw. Don't worry if the card looks off-kilter, when you put in the PCI extension card (which is hella stiff) it will even out the card.
nice work bro. That's basically how my DC/DC jack is mounted too, only difference is there's a bit of the metal frame cut (by Josh) since the 1080's backplate interfered.
I was hoping I could cable manage a bit better, but being too timid to cut my wires I did what I could lol.
okay so having CPU and GPU c-states on in the BIOS and in windows had seemingly ZERO effect on performance when gaming. in fact i updated my benchmark scores and i got even higher now on Timespy.
so since my idle CPU and GPU temps dropped from 5-10c each, I'll be keeping c-states or "adaptive GPU power" mode, on!
so since my idle CPU and GPU temps dropped from 5-10c each, I'll be keeping c-states or "adaptive GPU power" mode, on!
I've put in the MSI Aero ITX 1070 into the mini. It's the same as the Gigabyte card, you need to mod the dc in connector with a dremel to cut a "canal" for the PCB to fit. Unlike the Gigabyte, I also had to cut away abit of the shroud (really small piece) to get it to fit with the dc in.
On that note, has anyone ever put their ears to the case while running synthetics / playing games using the 1070 and above? I find that the electrical sputter / whine from the HDplex is way more audible than when i run it with a 1050ti and 1060 (for obvious reasons).
Cheers
Shaun
I have 2 videos of the HDPLEX-300 and the 1080mini (inside my S4 mini) running Timespy and Firestrike and you can hear the coil whine gets pretty loud. It gets even louder when I run Unigine Heaven or Valley, and what's crazy is that if I'm ingame in Watch_Dogs 2 and I alt-tab back to the desktop, the coil whine gets SUPER LOUD.
Honestly I can't tell you if it's coming from the 1080mini or the HDPLEX-300, it's a little difficult to tell. If I had the hdplex and 1080 mini farther apart from each other in like an open-test bench outside of the S4 mini i'd be able to tell you... but uninstalling the 1080 mini and HDPLEX would take me way too long and I'm not to worried about that coil whine because it's only ever that high during synthetic benchmarks, it's not even close to that high in normal gaming.
Honestly I can't tell you if it's coming from the 1080mini or the HDPLEX-300, it's a little difficult to tell. If I had the hdplex and 1080 mini farther apart from each other in like an open-test bench outside of the S4 mini i'd be able to tell you... but uninstalling the 1080 mini and HDPLEX would take me way too long
and I'm not to worried about that coil whine because it's only ever that high during synthetic benchmarks, it's not even close to that high in normal gaming.
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I have 2 videos of the HDPLEX-300 and the 1080mini (inside my S4 mini) running Timespy and Firestrike and you can hear the coil whine gets pretty loud. It gets even louder when I run Unigine Heaven or Valley, and what's crazy is that if I'm ingame in Watch_Dogs 2 and I alt-tab back to the desktop, the coil whine gets SUPER LOUD.
Honestly I can't tell you if it's coming from the 1080mini or the HDPLEX-300, it's a little difficult to tell. If I had the hdplex and 1080 mini farther apart from each other in like an open-test bench outside of the S4 mini i'd be able to tell you... but uninstalling the 1080 mini and HDPLEX would take me way too long
It's the 1080 mini causing the coil whine... I did warn you
If you set a frame limit in Rivatuner it will reduce the coil whine somewhat, but I returned the 1080 mini for the full size EVGA 1080 and the whine is there I the same places, but much quieter overall.
Is there any benefit for going for the MSI over the Gigabyte? I know the IO is far superior but besides that
tell em to shush and calm down and look at my posts over in the LP53 thread,
I measured my absolute max amount of cooler space available in my S4 mini and it seems promising for the LP53 and for this new cooler (maybe): https://hardforum.com/threads/thermolab-cooltek-lp53-review.1923635/page-3#post-1042842909EDIT: That HSLP-48 cooler's design is interesting. I measured a 4C difference in cooling from the NH-L9i with the stock fan vs using the 25mm NF-B9 Redux 1600 PWM. The NF-B9 was 4c hotter when the S4 mini's side panel was closed, and I had to make sure the mounting screws were FLUSH completely to the fan would even fit without making the side panel bulge out. The possible reason why me and others who tried the NF-B9 in the S4 mini, found worse performance... was probably due to the fact that the 25mm fan atop the NH-L9i was absolutely flush with the S4 mini's side panel and had 0mm of an airgap for proper intake ventilation... with the side panel off the temps were better by 1c in my measurements over the NH-L9i's stock fan.
Here's why I say that cooler's design is interesting, because with the fan on the UNDERSIDE of the heatsink, you can have the entire HSF sitting flush with the S4 mini's side panel and not worry since the fins are what's flush with the side panel, and the fan underneath already has the airgap it needs since the airgap is between the CPU Heatsink's block and the fan, instead of the fan and the case..
yeah you were right, but the coil whine is totally manageable outside of synthetics, and it's bearable IMO.It's the 1080 mini causing the coil whine... I did warn you
If you set a frame limit in Rivatuner it will reduce the coil whine somewhat, but I returned the 1080 mini for the full size EVGA 1080 and the whine is there I the same places, but much quieter overall.
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So you spend 6 years making a case and then everyone expects you to be an expert on it all of a sudden...geez
So you spend 6 years making a case and then everyone expects you to be an expert on it all of a sudden...geez
Can you believe these people?!
