Raijintek Thetis: Another small ATX case

[AcquaCow]

Built and installed my 120mm last night

Lots of stuff going on in this case now.

And for those wondering what the back of the case/cable management looks like, it's actually pretty clean right now.

Furmark temps between the CPU and GPU are much closer now:

Furmark really only uses one core, so the rest of the CPU is still cool:

A switch to prime95 flatlines the CPU at 76C

All cores are pretty even:

 

[AcquaCow]

Took the pump/rad unit out last night and topped the fluid off now that all the components have had time to cycle and move all the bits of air to the top of the sytem. I managed to get about 2oz of fluid in.

I also re-wired it and took the pump off of the PWM hub that controlled the fans and pump.

Pump is now directly on the CPU header and all 3 rad fans are on the pwm hub that's integrated into the top 240mm radiator.

Now I can run the pump at 80% (2300rpm) 24x7 and have it ramp to the max 2700rpm when temps get out of control.

As a result, GPU and CPU temps are very closely tied now and cooling is much better.

Half an hour of furmark levels out around 72C

CPU and GPU temps are equal now instead of having a 5C split

Fan speeds and pump speeds at full heat-soak:

The system is no louder than the air vent blowing into my home office when the HVAC is on.

It's nice and quiet. Pretty impressed with these Vardar EVO fans.

 

[Wintermute]

Is that bottom fan set to exhaust? I believe it would be better if it is, to get rid of hot air that might be trapped somewhere...

 

[AcquaCow]

I have the bottom blowing inward. to supply cooler air to the rear radiator.

Top two fans blow in. PSU and rear rad blow out, bottom fan blows in.

 

[Pingu1337]

Hey dave thank you for the great thread! Im planning on buying this case since I need a smaller case for lan partys and such. Im not sure if I should buy glass or metal panels. Would you be comfortable putting your system with glass panels in a big backpack if you were going to a lan?

 

[AcquaCow]

I probably wouldn't back-pack it, but I would carry it. Tempered glass does decently well in transit as long as you don't encounter any really small sharp objects.

 

[bcemail]

So I did want to note I had a small issue with swapping to the corsair PSU.

On my old EVGA PSU, the power wires come out the back of the connectors:

On the Corsair, they come out the sides:

So since these come apart so easily, I decided to move them and take some length out of the cable as well:

One of my screwdrivers had a square bit, which worked pretty well as a punch-down tool.

Perfect:

-- Dave

Came here looking for Thetis cooling and came across this (also planning on hacking out my rear fan grate after seeing your other post). Can you provide some more details on how you adjusted the connectors like this? I have 2 SSDs and 1 HDD and the power wires and connectors are such a pain to deal with. This looks very sleek! Thanks!

 

[AcquaCow]

The connectors just come apart (depending on what kind are used on your specific PSU).

I have photos of it all in this thread, are they not working?

 

[bcemail]

I just couldn't figure out how you got them so close. Just strip the wire and punch it down into the connector? Thanks!

 

[bcemail]

Posted on Reddit but thought I would try here too since people know this case.

Running Ryzen 1700X with a generic cooler (was pulled from a prebuilt) and a Sapphire RX580 8GB (2 fans).

The other night I was playing a game, and was trying to figure out why it wasn’t running smoothly. I think it was just the resolution, as switching to a smaller window and changing the resolution seemed to help. While checking things out, I decided to look at what temps I was running at. Here is a screenshot Speccy had my CPU at 95 (!) but HWMonitor had it at a more respectable 60s/70s. The GPU was also a little hot but not bad. HWMonitor did max out at some point at 85 degrees, maybe before I turned down the resolution and graphics
How do I tell which is right, and do I need to be concerned?

There are two pics in that link of how things stand. Nothing in the bottom fan spot. You can see the CPU cooler is moving air toward the solid side of the case. 1x120mm installed as rear exhaust. Nothing in the top.
I’m not sure what would be the best and most affordable option (don’t have much to spend on this right now). I don’t want exhaust at the top, because that would starve the GPU, right? Should I switch to a CPU cooler that blows toward the rear, and maybe add an intake at the bottom? The clearance at the bottom isn’t huge, but it’s on a glass desk so there shouldn’t be much blocking intake, but the PSU is exhausting there as well. Or try and find an affordable AIO for the CPU? I’m thinking this would replace the fan at the rear. I wouldn’t want a 240 at the top, again because of the GPU, although I guess I could but a 120 AIO up there and leave the other half open (or even have an intake there), but that might not make sense.
Lots of options, I know! Not sure where to start, please let me know any ideas! And if there’s some info I’m not providing, just tell me. Thanks for all the help!

 

[AcquaCow]

I just couldn't figure out how you got them so close. Just strip the wire and punch it down into the connector? Thanks!

Nah, the plug has teeth that bite through the insulation and self-crimp to the cable. You just need to place the wire between the spades, and push it down with a blunt tip.


As for your CPU temps, that cooler looks rather insufficient to cool that 1700x at 1.5v vcore... You may want one of the larger noctua tower coolers to dissipate that heat.

 

[Wintermute]

Honestly, I'd just get a different CPU cooler, that one looks like crap. You can get a tower cooler, use the back fan as intake instead of exhaust and use PSU as exhaust or elevate the case some more and have the tower intake air from the bottom and back fan as exhaust, you can get a larger top-down cooler similar to this one or get an AIO...

If you want to avoid purchasing a cooler, tyr few things...elevate the case more, put an intake fan on the botom, or use the back as intake and PSU as exaust so you can have at least some flow of air (in your current setup, both the back fan and PSU are stealing the air away from the cooler)...experiment.

 

[bcemail]

Nah, the plug has teeth that bite through the insulation and self-crimp to the cable. You just need to place the wire between the spades, and push it down with a blunt tip.


As for your CPU temps, that cooler looks rather insufficient to cool that 1700x at 1.5v vcore... You may want one of the larger noctua tower coolers to dissipate that heat.

That's even easier! I will pick up a new cooler. Thanks!

 

[bcemail]

Honestly, I'd just get a different CPU cooler, that one looks like crap. You can get a tower cooler, use the back fan as intake instead of exhaust and use PSU as exhaust or elevate the case some more and have the tower intake air from the bottom and back fan as exhaust, you can get a larger top-down cooler similar to this one or get an AIO...

If you want to avoid purchasing a cooler, tyr few things...elevate the case more, put an intake fan on the botom, or use the back as intake and PSU as exaust so you can have at least some flow of air (in your current setup, both the back fan and PSU are stealing the air away from the cooler)...experiment.

I'll get a new cooler. That will give me something to tinker with anyway. Didn't think of switching the back to intake. This may be a dumb question, but is it bad to try and exhaust through the PSU? Will it then have to try and move too much heat? I was also going to pick up an extra fan for the bottom of the case, do you think it matters if it's intake with the back fan exhaust, or vice versa? Either way I'll lift up the case a bit to get some more airflow. Thanks!

 

[Pingu1337]

Heyo! Here is my new build

 

[AcquaCow]

:highfive:

I still have an X58 system running here at home too =) I'm amazed at how well it still does.

 

[EEADAMS]

How can I get my hands on this case? I'm in the US and can't find it available anywhere? It seems to be the smallest ATX case that can accommodate a 240mm rad.

 

[teodoro]

How can I get my hands on this case? I'm in the US and can't find it available anywhere? It seems to be the smallest ATX case that can accommodate a 240mm rad.

it does look like newegg finished off their inventory. you can get it shipped via overclockers.co.uk, though shipping puts it at ~$150 usd for me.

 

[EEADAMS]

it does look like newegg finished off their inventory. you can get it shipped via overclockers.co.uk, though shipping puts it at ~$150 usd for me.

Thanks! I can take a look there.

 

[fma965]

I've literally registered to this forum just to post my build in this case, this case is amazing considering it's not much larger than some "mid size itx cases" and yet it can fit a ATX PSU and Motherboard.

Spec
PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: Intel Core i7-7820X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor (Purchased For £404.99)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H55 57 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler (Purchased For £39.98)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i RGB PLATINUM SE 63 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler (Purchased For £124.99)
Motherboard: Asus WS X299 PRO ATX LGA2066 Motherboard (Purchased For £320.48)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 8 GB (2 x 4 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory (Purchased For £105.14)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory (Purchased For £82.63)
Storage: Samsung 960 EVO 250 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive (Purchased For £121.19)
Storage: Western Digital Blue 4 TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive (Purchased For £56.92)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11 GB SC Black Edition Video Card (Purchased For £700.00)
Case: RAIJINTEK Thetis ATX Mid Tower Case (Purchased For £98.09)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit (Purchased For £0.00)
Wired Network Adapter: Asus XG-C100C PCIe x4 10 Gbit/s Network Adapter (Purchased For £68.99)
Case Fan: EK Vardar F3-120 63 CFM 120 mm Fan (Purchased For £13.99)
Case Fan: EK Vardar F3-120 63 CFM 120 mm Fan (Purchased For £13.99)
Case Fan: EK Vardar F3-120 63 CFM 120 mm Fan (Purchased For £14.99)
Case Fan: Corsair LL120 RGB LED 43.25 CFM 120 mm Fan (Purchased For £18.98)
Monitor: Asus PB277Q 27.0" 2560x1440 75 Hz Monitor (Purchased For £187.57)
Monitor: Asus PB277Q 27.0" 2560x1440 75 Hz Monitor (Purchased For £228.99)
Monitor: Asus ROG SWIFT PG278QR 27.0" 2560x1440 165 Hz Monitor (Purchased For £350.00)
Keyboard: Drevo BladeMaster PRO Wireless Gaming Keyboard (Purchased For £85.31)
Mouse: Logitech G703 (Black) Wireless Optical Mouse (Purchased For £49.95)
Headphones: SteelSeries Siberia 840 7.1 Channel Headphones (Purchased For £163.45)
Custom: Corsair Gaming MM200 Cloth Gaming Mouse Pad, Extended (Purchased For £23.99)
Custom: Neewer NB-35 Black Microphone Suspension Boom Scissor Arm Stand with Mic Clip Holder and Table Mounting Clamp & NW(B-3) Black Pop Filter Windscreen Mask Shield with Stand Clip Kit (Purchased For £12.99)
Custom: CORSAIR Lighting Node PRO CL-9011109-WW, RGB Lighting Controller with (Purchased For £34.99)
Custom: LINDY Single Screen Bracket with Pole and Desk Clamp for 30-Inch LCD/LED Monitor - Black (Purchased For £18.59)
Custom: NZXT Kraken G12 GPU Mounting Kit - White (Purchased For £24.99)
Custom: KLIM Bungee Extension for Mouse - 3 x USB 3.0 Hub - Multi Functional - High Quality Product - Backlit - Cable Organiser - 5 Year Warranty - [ New 2017 Version ] Black (Purchased For £17.90)
Custom: Newstar Full Motion Desk Mount (grommet) for 10-30" Monitor Screen, Height Adjustable - Black (Purchased For £0.00)
Custom: Newstar Full Motion Desk Mount (grommet) for 10-30" Monitor Screen, Height Adjustable - Black (Purchased For £32.79)
Custom: Oculus Rift S Virtual Reality System (Purchased For £367.08)
Custom: Blue Microphones Yeti Blackout Edition (Purchased For £90.04)
Custom: Controller - Xbox One S Bluetooth Controller Black (Purchased For £45.04)
Custom: Controller - Xbox One S Bluetooth Controller White Refurb (Purchased For £25.00)
Custom: Chair - Nitro Concepts E200 Race Series - Black/Red (Purchased For £147.95)
Custom: EVGA GM 650 Watt 80+ Gold SFX PSU/Power Supply (Purchased For £79.99)
Custom: Metal panel for Raijintek Thetis (Purchased For £28.18)
Total: £4200.14
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-12-21 13:30 GMT+0000

Before i moved to this small case i had it in a Cooler Master Mastercase 5 (MC500P), it was custom water cooled but it was becoming clogged and i couldn't be bothered to clean and maintain it so i went to AIO's

I then decided this case was too big for LANs and settled on this case

The clearance of the RM1000i PSU was tight, although it did fit it made the case look cramp

So i decided this wasn't good enough, and did some swapping PSU's arround moving this 1000w in to my server and selling my old server PSU to get a SFX (not SFX-L) PSU for my main build, i also decided to add some EK Vardar fans and re-arrange the fan configuration (i know it was wrong before) here is the final (as of writing this) look.

Sorry for the bad photo, glare plus facebook compression, will get a better one when i cba lol.

Also sorry for the rainbow puke, haven't configured my LED's how i want yet.
It's definitely a much better case with a SFX PSU!