@Curiosity I could pick up an iCloud locked iPad 3 for $50. Would you recommend doing the mod/diy project you did? With only spending another $30 on a controller it could be a super cheap portable monitor solution but I'm worried about size and just driver issues. Also, can the screen display 1080p at 60fps?
Curiosity
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I really like mind, so I would recommend it, yes.
Just remember that the screen is 9.7", so it's only really useful if you're going to be within arms reach, roughly. (imo)
Maybe use this screenshot and pull it up on an ipad at an apple store maybe, too see what you think?
I've never run into driver issues, you just plug it into a DP plug on your computer and it justwerks™. The USB cable is just for power unless you're flashing new firmware onto the board or something, which I've never done.
And yes, it can run 1080/60, though native is 2048x1536/60fps. Here's a video, hopefully it's of some use.
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That is a super small screen size, but if it's just a portable/spare monitor it should be fine. And with the dp, does it draw power from the PC or do you also need to use the USB plug? To be honest, I don't my lowly 1060 could handle that resolution at that framerate with a high detail. But it wouldn't hurt to try!
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The USB cable is specifically for power, no power comes over DP that I know of.
If you prefer you can solder on some wires for 5v in for a wall wart type connector or something.
I also have a 1060!
It does ok for most the things I play at 2048x1536, though you might have to turn them down to medium depending on the game. I play more overwatch than anything at it does fantastic there. Another thing that helps is that you can turn down AA a bit since the pixel density is so high. I do, at least.
If you prefer you can solder on some wires for 5v in for a wall wart type connector or something.
I also have a 1060!
It does ok for most the things I play at 2048x1536, though you might have to turn them down to medium depending on the game. I play more overwatch than anything at it does fantastic there. Another thing that helps is that you can turn down AA a bit since the pixel density is so high. I do, at least.
I had read that display port can provide some power, but maybe that was a special implementation. I have no experience with soldering so I wouldn't trust myself to do that haha. I guess one last question is, would this work with the stock iPad back? I'm wondering if it would be too thick to house the control board?
Also, did you follow another guide when making yours? I only have your imgur album to go off of.
Not to comment on what is best, but personally I would just buy a packedpixel's screen for 150 gbp instead of DIYing an ipad.
I saw in another post that you had gotten one. How is it? Part of me agrees with you but at that price I could just get a bigger one from Asus or something. Also, if I build in the iPad shell I have the advantage of being able to use any case or accessory for my monitor which could be pretty dope.
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I'm sure it can, but I don't know if it's enough to power the adapter + I don't think the adapter is designed to use that feature. It doesn't come on with just do plugged in, at least.
I didn't follow a guide, I just winged it.
If you want to keep the back of the iPad almost completely stock the display port jack will sit a little above the top edge of the ipad, which makes using the stock glass tough. I ended up getting some glass cut based off the original iPad glass.
Sorry if this is confusing, let me know if you need more info or pictures and I'll do my best to get you what you need.
Edit:
When I built mine there weren't any prebuilt ones I found, and I used the iPad she'll for the exact reason you want to. : )
I didn't follow a guide, I just winged it.
If you want to keep the back of the iPad almost completely stock the display port jack will sit a little above the top edge of the ipad, which makes using the stock glass tough. I ended up getting some glass cut based off the original iPad glass.
Sorry if this is confusing, let me know if you need more info or pictures and I'll do my best to get you what you need.
Edit:
When I built mine there weren't any prebuilt ones I found, and I used the iPad she'll for the exact reason you want to. : )
I didn't buy one, although I have an ipad with the same screen type.
I did talk to them and they assured me they that is works as a boot up monitor just fine and their website claims low response times as well.
Other bigger, however only 1080p monitors are 30-100 pounds more expensive.
Also there is a thick AOC usb display link monitor which I do own, but avoid those like the plague.
@Curiosity I'm going to go ahead with using the iPad shell and all. Any pictures of the control board and how you attached everything would be super useful. I'll try to reuse and reattach the stock glass, I'm just wondering how I'll have it stick, but even if i just place it and then slap on an OtterBox case, that would be cool.
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The problem with the stock glass is that unless you make sure the connectors are equal to or below the top of the LCD, the glass is going to bend and break or come unglued.
I broke 2 panels of iPad glass trying to make it work.
Let me know if you need more detail than this.
I used 3M double sided tape so unfortunately I can't take the glass off, but I'll try to get more detail if you think of something.
I broke 2 panels of iPad glass trying to make it work.
Let me know if you need more detail than this.
I used 3M double sided tape so unfortunately I can't take the glass off, but I'll try to get more detail if you think of something.
DP can provide a tiny bit of 5V power, but the MST hub I have only sometimes works on it, every so often I have to plug it into USB.
Build your own! I just picked up an iCloud locked iPad 3 today for $50 and the control board, which was $30, is on the way! If you have the time and confidence it's much cheaper and should be a fun little project.
Unfortunately they are just too small for my needs. I would prefer at least a 15.6 inch...
I'm actually trying to get something 3D printed. (I'm using the abusemark controller as well)
this cable does work with the controller (DP to Type C)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EXKDRAC/?tag=theminutiae-20
Im going to try this one when I get the Mini DP controller (Mini DP to Type C)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XP8Y4LY/?tag=theminutiae-20
Something like this would be good for travel (DP to DP)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M61HURW/?tag=theminutiae-20
the only thing thats annoying is that reading on these ipads are really eye straining.
Im going to try to do 3 ipad screens and 3D print something that makes the 3 screens fold-able, of course one screen will be spaced out further than two though
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EXKDRAC/?tag=theminutiae-20
Im going to try this one when I get the Mini DP controller (Mini DP to Type C)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XP8Y4LY/?tag=theminutiae-20
Something like this would be good for travel (DP to DP)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M61HURW/?tag=theminutiae-20
the only thing thats annoying is that reading on these ipads are really eye straining.
Im going to try to do 3 ipad screens and 3D print something that makes the 3 screens fold-able, of course one screen will be spaced out further than two though
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