Production Nouvolo Steck - SFF 8.7-11.2L ITX PC Case, supports liquid cooling

[MadDrake]

I just got a 36mm extension 3d modeled for the top hat. It will give me enough room to fit my setup in it. I'm using an xspc rx240 radiator. I thought about the tx240 but I didn't know if it could cool off my r5 1600 and 980ti. So I'll stick with the RX for now. I would love an extended case! Or different top hat sizes.

 

[dumplinknet]

Cable management was a breeze in this case given that extra hiding space behing the PSU. And this is with the stock, hard Corsair sf600 cables.

 

[loader963]

Cable management was a breeze in this case given that extra hiding space behing the PSU. And this is with the stock, hard Corsair sf600 cables.

Thats as good a compliment as one can get for cable management lol. I HATE the cables corsair ships with that psu.

 

[Hifihedgehog]

What the heck. I am shelving the mini review and I am just drafting my full review here and now. What you see now will vary a bit a couple weeks from now in the published review. For now, enjoy! The review itself is still a work-in progress and it is not completely finished to suit my expectations, but I had plenty of thoughts so far that I needed to put to paper as soon as possible. In looking forward, there will also be more photos, including side-by-side photos with--hopefully--an Intel NUC, my RVZ02, and a couple other odds and ends where it makes sense.

​

 

[chyll2]

I just got a 36mm extension 3d modeled for the top hat. It will give me enough room to fit my setup in it. I'm using an xspc rx240 radiator. I thought about the tx240 but I didn't know if it could cool off my r5 1600 and 980ti. So I'll stick with the RX for now. I would love an extended case! Or different top hat sizes.

Will you be sharing the 3D files?

 

[Poblopuablo]

What the heck. I am shelving the mini review and I am just drafting my full review here and now. What you see now will vary a bit a couple weeks from now in the published review. For now, enjoy! The review itself is still a work-in progress and it is not completely finished to suit my expectations, but I had plenty of thoughts so far that I needed to put to paper as soon as possible. In looking forward, there will also be more photos, including side-by-side photos with--hopefully--an Intel NUC, my RVZ02, and a couple other odds and ends where it makes sense.

A Speck of Steck: A Rising Star With Star-Studded Potential​

=======================================
|| Size for SFF: 10/10
|| Aesthetics: 10/10
|| Ease of installation: 8/10
|| Price: 10/10
|| Finishing: 9/10
|| Flexibility: 10/10
|| Compatibility: 6/10
|| Thermals (passive): 6/10 (Stock) / 9/10 (With fix) / 7.5 (Average)
|| Potential for modding: 10/10
|| ------------------------------------------------------------------
|| Overall: 9/10 (Excellent / Must Buy!)
=======================================​

A number of months ago, I stumbled on the Nouvolo Steck while searching for a viable alternative to a certain case named after an immaterial apparition that has experienced a number of delays. I had already researched a few other cases including the Kolink Rocket, the Raijintek Ophion Evo, the Geeek A50, and a few lesser known models in the Chinese market that are available only on Taobao. In each option, I found many strong points that were not without their hitches or hang-ups. Enter the Steck.

In my mind, the Steck is the perfect balance of shape and size combined with a fittingly elegant unassuming look. Excusing a thermal issue due to a feature incompatibility on my power supply which will be discussed in length at a future point, it is cool and quiet for its footprint and volume. Expandability is rather exceptional and practically limitless considering the modularity of the central spine, while building is fairly straightforward though some improvements can be made in this regard. There is little not to like and a whole lot to love. So let's dive in!

Size for SFF: 10/10

This caught me by surprise as I was pleasantly surprised by what I found. I had initially thought the approximate three-volume difference would be minimal compared to my Silverstone Raven RVZ02, but this could not be further from the truth. In actuality, it is significantly smarter in its strategic usage of space as well and this hearkens back to its design style. Currently, there are two highly popular designs in 12-liter-and-under small form factor PC case market which I refer to as the flatter pizza box-style (see the RVZ02) and thicker double-barreled shotgun-style (see the Steck).

I see valid pros and cons for both styles of cases but the more I use it, the more I fancy the less elongated, cube-like shape of the Steck which generally offers wide compatibility for CPU coolers and graphics cards and fits better in backpacks and tabletops. Even with the factory-installed feet with their approximate three quarters of an inch in added height, the Steck's use of this second dual-chamber, GPU/motherboard design fits snuggly and gets out of the way excellently. This especially holds true whether in my Cabin Max Metz Extra or on the top of a TV stand next to a Samsung JS8000 55" LCD UHD TV.

Aesthetics: 10/10

I am a fan of an understated look and thanks to the flat black color and rounded corners in full force, the Steck does not fail to impress. There is not a single sharp edge to be found within the internal and external borders of the parts. The paint job is also a nice blend between flat and textured that is smooth to the touch and a pleasure to look at from afar.

When the Steck is placed side by side with well-established, highly regarded Streacom's FC8 which I have access to, I see two equally compelling-looking appliances that stand shoulder to shoulder with one another. Both LEDs glow with just the right intensity and the snap of the activation force and click of the switch on the power button looks and sounds upscale and alluring. The Steck has premium written all over it from all angles.

Ease of Installation: 8/10

From the standpoint of a seasoned builder, I can say confidently this case was incredibly easy to put together. However, here I have to put myself in the shoes of a novice and an average buyer. Something very simple is missing in the equation and that is an illustrated assembly guide. The YouTube step-by-step assembly videos are indeed helpful and a step in the right direction, but I am certain a few users would like a guide showing more clearly and visibly which screws go where. A good starting point is Streacom, who I believe has some of the best examples of clear, simple instructions and diagrams done right such as here. Add an illustrated assembly guide and this easily becomes a 9 or a 10.

Price: 10/10

Value-packed--there is so much you get here with the relatively low asking price of $160. The case, the PCIe cable and bracket, and the necessary hardware that are all manufactured with care and high-grade materials. Note that I say "relatively" since at the present this market is still rather niche and price-inhibitive for these double-barreled shotgun-styled cases since most of these cases cost upwards of $200. The ones that end up costing less take several shortcuts in build quality downgrading to plastics and have issues with airflow. The Steck actually has managed to bring this style of case down to a price point that is much more accessible while introducing little to no drawbacks in build quality or features.

Finishing: 9/10
​

The paint job itself was just as good as the production-grade FC8 I have access to and noticeably in a whole other league from the RVZ02. The RVZ02's seems roughly and courser and dabber and drearier and simply looks like a standard big box retailer whereas the Steck's looks and feels premium. The Steck is definitely up there with the best premium mass manufacturers in achieving a paint job that rivals these more widely known names in case design.

Now, remembering that this is a pre-production unit, I noticed a very minor blemish on the metal side panels which is a very minor lack of paint on the inside of the rightmost, center from top and bottom perforation hole. This is approximately 1mm of missing paint that occurs here on both metal side panels. There was also a small ripple of excess paint on two of the internal drive cages but definitely not a show stopper by any stretch. As explained by the creator, this is due to the hook that is used to lift the panels in the painting process but this is already being addressed even before my noting of it.

Flexibility: 10/10

(Words)

Compatibility: 6/10

Thermals (passive): 6/10 (Stock) / 9/10 (With Fix)

This is where the praise needs to be put on hold for a moment while we discuss some healthy constructive criticism. I have a bit of a problem with the compatibility of the power supply mount. I happen to own an Enermax SFX Revolution. Due to the position of the risen plastic of the AC power connector, the power supply runs into the mount when the fan is facing outward. So I have two choices. One, I can place the power supply free floating in the case so the power supply fan can be facing outward. Or two, I can place the power oriented the opposite direction with the power supply fan pointed towards the inside of the case.

I tried both choices and it does not work well in either instance. In the first case, the power supply could potentially move around in the case the one way. For now, I can use double-sided tape as a stopgap fix until an improved, more compatible bracket is introduced. This is the option I will go with. However, alternatively, simply reversing the power supply, the case starts out nice and cool but, by and by, the case gets progressively hotter and hotter until the entire inside is burning hot. So really, I could sell my power supply and purchase one which has a more wisely positioned AC power connector and avoid this problem entirely.

Potential for modding: 10/10

(Words)​

Just get longer screws to drop the PSU down a couple millimeters to allow space. There is plenty of space to allow for the PSU be moved down a couple millimeters. They are cheap and could work.

 

[chyll2]

Hi Guys, from my observation, sandwich style case had a plastic or material at the back of the Graphic cards. I thought that is put there to prevent accidental shorting. Do you think that is still needed. I think there is a good clearance between the spine and gpu but it is still bothering me.

Is this still okay? Do you recommend anything that I can use?

edit: I just thought, I can just cut a plastic folder and taped it there. I just need a clean cut and not so obvious attachment. Will that work?

 

[macbosco]

@Hifihedgehog I am now revising the PSU bracket to allow for more different PSU. I have tested with Corsair and Silverstone. I can recommend both brands are OK

 

[GuilleAcoustic]

Let's start my AMD BUILD! (The last one was an Athlon FX-55 with an Asus A8N-SLI )

That's a shitty GPU. You can send it to me, I'll happily sacrifice myself to help you get rid of it

 

[fabio]

I can already say: WOW! (Especially for the rapidity of @macbosco to bring real and gave us this case!)

- The quality is very high, even if not at the same level as the DAN and the Cerberus, but I know is a preproduction! (I will not focus in fact on marks, paint issues, tolerances, etc. We already know and hope that in the real production batch these things will be fixed!)

BTW, one glass panel was completely cracked! I don't mind because I will not use them, but, is correct to let you know these things

- The central spine as someone here already noted, suffer from too much bending (mine has arrived with one side wing too much bent, I've fixed it, but you can still notice that. (If you don't want to change the design, maybe adding 0,5/1mm could really help!)

- The central spine is connected to the front and back only with one screw for each side, I suggest to have a T frame, so you can use 2 screws for each side (x2 top left, x2 top right, etc...) to help the rigidity.

- The space behind the PSU is PERFECT! (And I am using the Corsair SF sleeved cable!) Maybe you could find a thinner PSU cord extension like in the DAN, to rise a bit the PSU and having more space for an SFX-L version as well.

- The entire frame is getting very hot while working! I mean, also the DAN has this issue, BUT not so much.

- The airflow could be a bit better having more holes or a different pattern but is a small thing. The temps are ok for the CPU I am using, and The Noctua L12 does its job! I would like to try the L12S version, but I don't know if the changes are so many to justify the lower RAM clearance, etc.

- I agree that a manual with the type of screws specified for each component will be great, even if the videos are explaining quite well the build steps

- ATTENTION, the screw provided to me were not good to screw the frame on the PSU, were too tiny and loosy, so I had no grip (I've used some leftovers of my Cerberus. Please, double check it!

- I am still convinced that having the sides and the top screwed will be better (I know that it is not supposed to be moved by a lot of people, but even to move it to shoot pictures was impossible without losing the panels.)
I think in the weekend I will drill holes to screw on the frame, also because the threads are already there!

- As well, I think I will remove the feet. There is no benefit for the airflow in my config to have it, so I can lower the size using rubber feet instead.

And now, enjoy my build log!!! In the next post the votation for each category as requested!

THANK YOU @macbosco !!!

THE AMD STECK BUILD

Ryzen 7 2700X
G.Skill 2x16GB DDR4 Flare X 2933MHz C14
Asus Strix X470-I
AMD Radeon Pro WX 9100
Noctua NH-L12 + B9 Redux PMW 1600
Samsung 970 Pro 512GB (OS)
Samsung 860 Pro 1TB (Data)
Aquacomputer M.2 Passive Heatsink (I hate that shitty aluminum plate by ASUS)
Silverstone Low Profile SATA Cable
Corsair SF600 Gold PSU
Corsair SF Sleeved Cables
WiFi AC+BT Killer 1550

FYI: To install Windows on NVME drive, on the ASUS board be sure to DISABLE the CSM!! I've become crazy to install it, for two hours the system after installed it, was booting again and again only from the USB Stick, not from the 970 Pro, even if recognized in the BIOS! Never happened before!!!

 

[macbosco]

@Testers,

Just to let you know I am already compiling a list of updates and improvement based on your feedback. At this stage my plan is to post a list of updates for version 1.1. (say current one is 1.0). You are welcome to comment on what changes you want or their priorities. First 500 units will still be version 1.0 due to working in parallel. But I will travel to China again with your feedback and discuss on the timeline for implementing the updates.

EDIT: will post update list up near end of this month, lets just gather all the information first.

Rather than stalling completely maybe updates will be done in stages before getting to 1.1, whilst each subsequent production batch get gradual updates. That's my plan. Need to work with stakeholders to confirm whether this is feasible.

 

[Hifihedgehog]

@Hifihedgehog I am now revising the PSU bracket to allow for more different PSU. I have tested with Corsair and Silverstone. I can recommend both brands are OK

Thanks! Talk about an eventful week. My brand new vehicle just had a transmission trouble code so I am taking it in. Whatever the case, I am going ahead and using double-sided adhesive until the bracket compatibility is rectified. In the meantime, I can scournge up the funds for 1.1 which I will buy in a couple of months from now or as soon as it is available. Thanks again!

 

[Poblopuablo]

As well, I think I will remove the feet. There is no benefit for the airflow in my config to have it, so I can lower the size using rubber feet instead.

There will be severe lack of stability if you remove the bottom or are you just planning to removed the extruding "feet" portion of the bottom?

 

[macbosco]

There will be severe lack of stability if you remove the bottom or are you just planning to removed the extruding "feet" portion of the bottom?

The feet come pre-installed, but they are only screwed on by factory. They CAN be detached. Go Go MOD!

 

[fabio]

There will be severe lack of stability if you remove the bottom or are you just planning to removed the extruding "feet" portion of the bottom?

Just the feet.

I discovered this because I wasn't able to screw from outside the 4th screw for the HDD cage.

It was going against the foot. Removed it, put the screw, and mount it back.

 

[Hifihedgehog]

A few questions: What modular aftermarket PSU cables are recommended for the Steck and in what lengths? I have a CableMod coupon which came with my motherboard that I am interested in redeeming it. I am thinking round cables might improve airflow a bit given my Revolution’s stock flat modular cables and such.

Now, for a quick bit on temperature. At 1.2625V and 3.8 GHz on my Ryzen 7 1700, I am hitting 83 C at peak on IntelBurnTest. In my RVZ02, on the other hand, I could actually bump up to 3.9 GHz and 1.34-1.35V and it would peak at around 83-85 C.

Now, I am using a rather unusual set up cooling setup, which is a NH-L12 that has a crazy fast 92mm Delta fan (AFC0912D-PWM). The fan is positioned in an updraft orientation—that is outward, just as with the RVZ02—and its RPM peak as high as 5300, if I am not mistaken, in HWINFO’s tachometer. (No fingers were stabbed or slashed in the building of this system... ).

Could adding larger and more holes to the side panel in the Steck 1.1 improve my temperatures? I noticed temperature dropped by 7-10 degrees with the side panel off.

Should I try flipping my fan to downdraft and try reaching again for that 3.9 GHz overclock that my system got with the RVZ02?

 

[macbosco]

Quick question: What modular aftermarket PSU cables are recommended for the Steck and in what lengths? I have a CableMod coupon which came with my motherboard that I am interested in redeeming it. I am thinking round cables might improve airflow a bit given my Revolution’s stock flat modular cables and such.

Now, for a quick bit on temperature. At 1.2625V and 3.8 GHz on my Ryzen 7 1700, I am hitting 83 C at peak on IntelBurnTest. In my RVZ02, on the other hand, I could actually bump up to 3.9 GHz and 1.34-1.35V and it would peak at around 83-85 C. Now, I am using a rather unusual set up for my NH-L12 which has a crazy fast 92mm Delta fan (AFC0912D-PWM). The fan is positioned in an updraft orientation (that is outward, just as with the RVZ02) and its RPM peaks as high as 5300, if I am not mistaken, in HWINFO’s tachometer. (No fingers were stabbed or slashed in the building of this system... ). Could adding larger and more holes to the side panel in 1.1 improve my temperatures? Should I flip my fan to downdraft and try again for that 3.9 GHz overclock that I got with the RVZ02?

I have ordered some custom mod cables, should arrive next week. I will test it out myself first before I confirm how long they should be. I already wasted some money first time round ordering them too long.So better wait a bit.

As for the CPU temp. I have a feeling that Ryzen runs hotter than Intel.. I haven't tested this myself. My thinking is that comparing with Dan or even yet to exist in the wild Ghost S1, they are all similar sizes, I would think their thermal performances will be very similar? I just can't figure out what kind of variance can cause a significant difference in outcome.

 

[Allhopeforhumanity]

Now, I am using a rather unusual set up cooling setup, which is a NH-L12 that has a crazy fast 92mm Delta fan (AFC0912D-PWM). The fan is positioned in an updraft orientation—that is outward, just as with the RVZ02—and its RPM peak as high as 5300, if I am not mistaken, in HWINFO’s tachometer. (No fingers were stabbed or slashed in the building of this system... ).

Could adding larger and more holes to the side panel in 1.1 improve my temperatures?

Should I flip my fan to downdraft and try again for that 3.9 GHz overclock that I got with the RVZ02?

That is a crazy high RPM fan. Does it sound like a quad copter taking off at max speed?

On the down-draft vs up-draft question, this has a lot to do with how much static pressure your fan generates in push vs pull, and whether VRM cooling is limiting your clock stability. In my experience most fans tend to perform better in a push configuration (and sometimes quieter too), but in down draft you often end up trapping a not insignificant amount of heat between the cooler and board (walled in by the VRM heat sink and the IO).

Depending on how set you are on not using a the top hat, I might experiment with throwing a 120mm above the mobo. My suggestion would be exhaust if you are down draft, or intake if you are up-drafting and see how that effects your thermals.

 

[macbosco]

@Hifihedgehog
What's the temp at idle? should be in the 30s?

 

[Hifihedgehog]

@Hifihedgehog
What's the temp at idle? should be in the 30s?

With side panel off, yes. Off, it idles in the 40s, I believe. Peaks were 75 and 84, respectively. Let me know whatever other information you need. I will be looking at this later on tonight. FYI, I updated my top post while you were replying.