Completed MJOLNIR: The minimalistic – but not boring – 9.7L Case

Which MJOLNIR I are you interested in?

  • Standard Version - 299 USD

    Votes: 485 74.4%
  • RGB Version (No controller) - 319 USD

    Votes: 63 9.7%
  • RGB Version (With controller) - 349 USD

    Votes: 104 16.0%

  • Total voters
    652

shaggyaus

Minimal Tinkerer
New User
Oct 4, 2023
4
2
Hi @AlexTzone,

I received my case today.

However before shipping, it appears that the outer shell was not fully placed over the inside core. this is because it outside shell was placed the wrong way around over the inside core (it appears the outside shell can only go on one way).

Because of this, there are blemishes and some scratches on the case. Am I able to send the case back and get a new one sent out thanks?

Cheers,
Shane
 

AlexTzone

I design minimalistic – but not boring – PC stuff
Original poster
THOR ZONE
Silver Supporter
Sep 23, 2017
1,336
2,812
thor-zone.com
Hi @AlexTzone,

I received my case today.

However before shipping, it appears that the outer shell was not fully placed over the inside core. this is because it outside shell was placed the wrong way around over the inside core (it appears the outside shell can only go on one way).

Because of this, there are blemishes and some scratches on the case. Am I able to send the case back and get a new one sent out thanks?

Cheers,
Shane

Very sorry to hear this, but please email us instead and we'll get a new shell sent to you.
 

PoneG

Average Stuffer
Jun 10, 2022
72
64
lets get back to the topic of this thread. theres 2 much off topic action in here.
i have a mjolnir full package pc case. it stood around for a long time until the right parts finally arrived: a th3p4g3 egpu system.
this other new case is just not for me. cant switch the side plates and so on. the booster cell is just the best but im not using it because the fan cant blow a lot of air through the tiny space it has. anyways. anodizing is still suberp
 
Last edited:
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zwibbel

Minimal Tinkerer
New User
Aug 5, 2024
4
4
Very happy to say, NANOQ batch 1 has completed shipping! Those waiting for shipping should have received tracking emails (please check spam if you can't find it).
Got mine on Monday, the graphite color looks super classy! Already filled it with hardware, was not as hard to build in as I anticipated, having no SFF experience whatsoever. I did have some minor issues that I hope I'll be able to fix:
  1. the cables of the Corsair SF850, while short, are still a bit bulky and stiff and longer than they need to be, and it's quite crowded in the space between the AIO fan and the PSU.
  2. this also contributes to another issue: the AIO tubes have to share the space with the PSU cables. As a result, the cables are pushing the tubes towards the back end of the GPU, pushing it a bit outward and making it impossible to close the case.
  3. when the case is sitting on the table, the riser cable pushes slightly against it, nudging the riser bracket slightly up and preventing the slim AIO fan from spinning. I'm using the case in reverse orientation, but apparently my GPU isn't quite heavy enough to pull the riser bracket down a bit. I propped a thin book under one side of the case, so it sits at an angle, but of course once the case is closed, this will not be possible anymore.
Nothing that's unfixable. I have custom cables from BespokeBaka on order that should fix issue 1 and help with issue 2. As for 2, a Saturday afternoon and some gentle nudging will probably help (Devyn Johnston used the same AIO in his build, so I know it can be done), and 3 can probably easily be fixed with a piece of foam between the fan frame and the riser bracket. If everything else fails, I'll switch the Fractal Lumen for the Silverstone Vida Slim (which has a thinner radiator and comes with slim fans), but I'd rather not do that if I can help it.

Overall, I had a good time building this. Photos will come once I've switched the PSU cables and fixed everything up properly.
 

AlexTzone

I design minimalistic – but not boring – PC stuff
Original poster
THOR ZONE
Silver Supporter
Sep 23, 2017
1,336
2,812
thor-zone.com
Got mine on Monday, the graphite color looks super classy! Already filled it with hardware, was not as hard to build in as I anticipated, having no SFF experience whatsoever. I did have some minor issues that I hope I'll be able to fix:
  1. the cables of the Corsair SF850, while short, are still a bit bulky and stiff and longer than they need to be, and it's quite crowded in the space between the AIO fan and the PSU.
  2. this also contributes to another issue: the AIO tubes have to share the space with the PSU cables. As a result, the cables are pushing the tubes towards the back end of the GPU, pushing it a bit outward and making it impossible to close the case.
  3. when the case is sitting on the table, the riser cable pushes slightly against it, nudging the riser bracket slightly up and preventing the slim AIO fan from spinning. I'm using the case in reverse orientation, but apparently my GPU isn't quite heavy enough to pull the riser bracket down a bit. I propped a thin book under one side of the case, so it sits at an angle, but of course once the case is closed, this will not be possible anymore.
Nothing that's unfixable. I have custom cables from BespokeBaka on order that should fix issue 1 and help with issue 2. As for 2, a Saturday afternoon and some gentle nudging will probably help (Devyn Johnston used the same AIO in his build, so I know it can be done), and 3 can probably easily be fixed with a piece of foam between the fan frame and the riser bracket. If everything else fails, I'll switch the Fractal Lumen for the Silverstone Vida Slim (which has a thinner radiator and comes with slim fans), but I'd rather not do that if I can help it.

Overall, I had a good time building this. Photos will come once I've switched the PSU cables and fixed everything up properly.

Can you post a pic of your build, perhaps it will be easier to give feedback and solutions I we can see the issues first hand :D I'm sure 1-3 will work out.

I've also received my NANOQ R
Full carbon version, I'm in love with it 😍
I've got a lot of work ahead of me to transfer my config into it and make it as clean as possible


Can't wait to see what you build!! :D
 

LSff

What's an ITX?
New User
Aug 22, 2024
1
1
Hi guys,
I also received my Nanoq S Carbon this week! I have to say the quality is premium and everything fits precisely where it is supposed to be. I love the looks and feel.
A big thanks the Alex for creating such a great product and delivering what was promised!

That being said, I also want to point out a few things I experienced (good and not so good), to help owners and those who consider to be with expectations and also to propose small improvements to Alex.

To everyone who has the case and doesn't want to read it all, just read '3. Build' , to get the most important part for you.

1. Delivery
Time from shipping notice to receiving was quick; like 3-4 days. On arrival my parcel looked like it has gone through quite some abuse. A few posts ago someone already posted pictures of the packaging, which is really good! The corner protectors did their job quite well. Some were broken, but the corners beneath them were still intact. Also the parcel looked like it was sitting in a puddle while out for delivery. The lower half was soaking wet. Still the inner cardboard packaging (white case box + accessories box inside case) was mostly unharmed, though you could feel it being moist.
Not really anything necessary to do about it and I think the packaging is great as it is!

2. Accessories + Case
The accessories box looked like it was once stuffed on one side of the case nicely, but came loose in transfer. A few dents here and there in the cardboard is nothing dramatic, so that might be some lower priority thing to look into.

The case itself is padded well and was luckily unharmed. YAY!
One thing I want to mention here for a possible improvement is the sliding of the shell and core. The case might even have too much precision here, as there is basically no gap at all between these components.

I noticed, that Alex has designed 2 plastic(?) pins on each inner corner of the front panel. Plastic being a good thing here, as I guess the purpose is to prevent metal to metal sliding? Anyways, it doesn't work quite well and there is still quite a bit of metal to metal sliding happening, which in the long run would scratch of the (in my case black) coating and reveal the (silver) aluminum. If that's the idea with these pins, it is a very good one. But I'd like to see them bigger, to do their job. Maybe also some placed on the back panel.
For opening the case rarely, that's not a big problem, but I guess a lot of us like to tinker and therefore have to be very careful to not scratch these beautiful cases.

3. Building
I can't say a lot here yet, as my planned build will be complex and I won't have the time for at least a few months. But maybe the most important thing I noticed and the reason I'm writing this post now, is the following:

The only thing I did yet, was to reverse the power bar, as my radiator setup will not be the out of the box bottom config. On a side note... Why is that even the standard layout... Anyway...
The manual says there are two 'plastic pads' included, of which one should be put into the slot that doesn't already have one. This is basically the pad, that touches the power button and makes it clickable.

Now the thing is... These two plastic pads are included but wayyy to low profile to fill the slot high enough, the ever reach the power button behind them. It's not even nearly enough height, when button them on top of each other. I don't know why, but the pre installed pad is like 4x the height of the two accessories. Luckily I had something similar to the pre installed at hand, cut it to fit the slot, and the power button is clickable now.
- for everyone with the case: keep that in mind, if changing that bar is your plan
- for Alex: easiest fix with biggest impact
-> accessorie pads need to be the same pads as production puts into the slot.

Hope that's helpful.
Can't wait for the builds!
 
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AlexTzone

I design minimalistic – but not boring – PC stuff
Original poster
THOR ZONE
Silver Supporter
Sep 23, 2017
1,336
2,812
thor-zone.com
Hi guys,
I also received my Nanoq S Carbon this week! I have to say the quality is premium and everything fits precisely where it is supposed to be. I love the looks and feel.
A big thanks the Alex for creating such a great product and delivering what was promised!

That being said, I also want to point out a few things I experienced (good and not so good), to help owners and those who consider to be with expectations and also to propose small improvements to Alex.

To everyone who has the case and doesn't want to read it all, just read '3. Build' , to get the most important part for you.

1. Delivery
Time from shipping notice to receiving was quick; like 3-4 days. On arrival my parcel looked like it has gone through quite some abuse. A few posts ago someone already posted pictures of the packaging, which is really good! The corner protectors did their job quite well. Some were broken, but the corners beneath them were still intact. Also the parcel looked like it was sitting in a puddle while out for delivery. The lower half was soaking wet. Still the inner cardboard packaging (white case box + accessories box inside case) was mostly unharmed, though you could feel it being moist.
Not really anything necessary to do about it and I think the packaging is great as it is!

2. Accessories + Case
The accessories box looked like it was once stuffed on one side of the case nicely, but came loose in transfer. A few dents here and there in the cardboard is nothing dramatic, so that might be some lower priority thing to look into.

The case itself is padded well and was luckily unharmed. YAY!
One thing I want to mention here for a possible improvement is the sliding of the shell and core. The case might even have too much precision here, as there is basically no gap at all between these components.

I noticed, that Alex has designed 2 plastic(?) pins on each inner corner of the front panel. Plastic being a good thing here, as I guess the purpose is to prevent metal to metal sliding? Anyways, it doesn't work quite well and there is still quite a bit of metal to metal sliding happening, which in the long run would scratch of the (in my case black) coating and reveal the (silver) aluminum. If that's the idea with these pins, it is a very good one. But I'd like to see them bigger, to do their job. Maybe also some placed on the back panel.
For opening the case rarely, that's not a big problem, but I guess a lot of us like to tinker and therefore have to be very careful to not scratch these beautiful cases.

3. Building
I can't say a lot here yet, as my planned build will be complex and I won't have the time for at least a few months. But maybe the most important thing I noticed and the reason I'm writing this post now, is the following:

The only thing I did yet, was to reverse the power bar, as my radiator setup will not be the out of the box bottom config. On a side note... Why is that even the standard layout... Anyway...
The manual says there are two 'plastic pads' included, of which one should be put into the slot that doesn't already have one. This is basically the pad, that touches the power button and makes it clickable.

Now the thing is... These two plastic pads are included but wayyy to low profile to fill the slot high enough, the ever reach the power button behind them. It's not even nearly enough height, when button them on top of each other. I don't know why, but the pre installed pad is like 4x the height of the two accessories. Luckily I had something similar to the pre installed at hand, cut it to fit the slot, and the power button is clickable now.
- for everyone with the case: keep that in mind, if changing that bar is your plan
- for Alex: easiest fix with biggest impact
-> accessorie pads need to be the same pads as production puts into the slot.

Hope that's helpful.
Can't wait for the builds!

Thanks a lot for the super detailed post! Happy to say the we've already implemented these things for the next round. The nylon corner pins have been pushed out a tiny bit so they have more contact with the shell, this is a balance since the shell has tolerances and we want to avoid them getting stuck. The power button will not have slots on the inside anymore, we simply moved the clickable button back a bit so the back of the power button bar could be completely flat. There are many small optimizations like this, probably doesn't make a big difference once the case is finished and locked but nice-to-haves when building. The S will also have an additional structure on the spine going forward, to prevent the rather heavy accessories box from wiggling stuff loose in shipping.

I think for future launches, we'll probably just assemble them so the branding is reversed from the start (i.e. so the rad is on top).
 
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DefiCzech

Efficiency Noob
Dec 2, 2019
6
2
@AlexTzone What is difference between Power Button V2 vs Power Button V1 (will be V2 work in V1 case? :D). I need new power button badly, mine was desoldered. And what is difference between Radiator Rails V2 vs V1? Thanks.
 

AlexTzone

I design minimalistic – but not boring – PC stuff
Original poster
THOR ZONE
Silver Supporter
Sep 23, 2017
1,336
2,812
thor-zone.com
@AlexTzone What is difference between Power Button V2 vs Power Button V1 (will be V2 work in V1 case? :D). I need new power button badly, mine was desoldered. And what is difference between Radiator Rails V2 vs V1? Thanks.

Yes, power button V2 is a free option for V1 cases. Basically it will have a connector like the Lightrays instead of soldered wires. Rails V2 has small slots instead of holes, so if your radiator has slightly strange mounting holes it will still work (also M4 will work).
 
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turboleak

SFF Lingo Aficionado
Jun 8, 2019
107
94
Yes, power button V2 is a free option for V1 cases. Basically it will have a connector like the Lightrays instead of soldered wires. Rails V2 has small slots instead of holes, so if your radiator has slightly strange mounting holes it will still work (also M4 will work).
How can I get the V2 button?