Production MJOLNIR: The minimalistic – but not boring – 9.7L Case

Which MJOLNIR I are you interested in?

  • Standard Version - 299 USD

    Votes: 450 74.6%
  • RGB Version (No controller) - 319 USD

    Votes: 59 9.8%
  • RGB Version (With controller) - 349 USD

    Votes: 94 15.6%

  • Total voters
    603

Goatee

King of Cable Management
Bronze Supporter
Jun 22, 2018
669
1,390
Don't have a Steel case but the O2 panels of my Dark case also show a slight color mismatch. At first I hardly noticed it and now it is also bothering me a bit.
To me it looks like the O2 panels were not anodized together with the shell and other panels.

I have the same on my dark. My glass panels look great but the O2 are prety different.
 

For_Science

Master of Cramming
Feb 16, 2018
391
508
Spent the morning fixing front rattle, took a few tries, but now its solid. Also experimented with swapping where the filter for the O2 panel goes since I personally didn't like my PC having a glorious 8 pack abs aesthetic. I personally think it works quite well, may consider getting another color filter that compliments the silver better.

 

N9neBreak3r

Cable-Tie Ninja
Jul 17, 2020
203
276
Spent the morning fixing front rattle, took a few tries, but now its solid. Also experimented with swapping where the filter for the O2 panel goes since I personally didn't like my PC having a glorious 8 pack abs aesthetic. I personally think it works quite well, may consider getting another color filter that compliments the silver better.

How did you pull the filter out and re attach it like that?? Lol at the glorious 8 pack 🤣
 
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AlexTzone

King of Cable Management
Original poster
THOR ZONE
Sep 23, 2017
892
2,178
thor-zone.com
Hi guys, we've finished testing the Gen4 riser now and it does what it's supposed to do!

The only thing left to determine now is the length of the riser:
  • If we choose 18.5cm like for the original riser the user will be able to easily plug/unplug the riser from the motherboard BUT there will be about 5mm of slack sticking out top and potentially getting caught by the shell upon insertion/extraction.
  • If we choose 18cm the risk of the riser getting caught by the shell will be eliminated, as there will be no slack; however, you'd first need to insert the unmounted riser into the motherboard and then screw the riser down to the spine (2 screws), then insert the GPU.
IMO 18cm is definitely the way to go, as I feel that sacrificing 2-3 minutes of convenience and gaining a heavily reduced risk is the smart choice. I mean, how often will the average backer actually swap out their motherboard?



However, I'd really like to hear your thoughts and what you would personally choose :)
 

Blueside

Efficiency Noob
Jul 7, 2021
7
21
I redid my custom cables again for a flipped PSU layout. I thought it would be a nice idea to flip the two SSD to have short cables like this:


But this didn‘t work out because the SSD connectors are blocking the shell when inserting the core. So hopefully I made this mistake that you guys don‘t have to fail like me :-)

Here now the final cables. The AIO orientation is now switched and I also routed the CPU power cable behind the mobi underneath the GPU for a non obstructed view. This worked out perfect:


I‘m pretty happy with the result. The O2 panel on the bottom closes now an also the thermals improved dramatically. With the PSU in „regular“ orientation my score in Cinebench R23 was 18932 (MC) / 1394 (SC) and now is 20082 (MC) / 1490 (SC). Everything else is the same in this comparsion. So I‘m really happy with the result now!
 

N9neBreak3r

Cable-Tie Ninja
Jul 17, 2020
203
276
I redid my custom cables again for a flipped PSU layout. I thought it would be a nice idea to flip the two SSD to have short cables like this:


But this didn‘t work out because the SSD connectors are blocking the shell when inserting the core. So hopefully I made this mistake that you guys don‘t have to fail like me :-)

Here now the final cables. The AIO orientation is now switched and I also routed the CPU power cable behind the mobi underneath the GPU for a non obstructed view. This worked out perfect:


I‘m pretty happy with the result. The O2 panel on the bottom closes now an also the thermals improved dramatically. With the PSU in „regular“ orientation my score in Cinebench R23 was 18932 (MC) / 1394 (SC) and now is 20082 (MC) / 1490 (SC). Everything else is the same in this comparsion. So I‘m really happy with the result now!
Do you have your aio fan as intake or exhaust?
 

Gambit2K

Minimal Tinkerer
New User
Sep 11, 2019
3
1
Hi guys, we've finished testing the Gen4 riser now and it does what it's supposed to do!

The only thing left to determine now is the length of the riser:
  • If we choose 18.5cm like for the original riser the user will be able to easily plug/unplug the riser from the motherboard BUT there will be about 5mm of slack sticking out top and potentially getting caught by the shell upon insertion/extraction.
  • If we choose 18cm the risk of the riser getting caught by the shell will be eliminated, as there will be no slack; however, you'd first need to insert the unmounted riser into the motherboard and then screw the riser down to the spine (2 screws), then insert the GPU.
IMO 18cm is definitely the way to go, as I feel that sacrificing 2-3 minutes of convenience and gaining a heavily reduced risk is the smart choice. I mean, how often will the average backer actually swap out their motherboard?



However, I'd really like to hear your thoughts and what you would personally choose :)
Agree with you alex, if we can't pull out the spine without stugg getting caught the whole function of having a pullout spine would be lost.
 
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RE4MATT3D

Caliper Novice
Jan 11, 2021
25
26
Hi guys, we've finished testing the Gen4 riser now and it does what it's supposed to do!

The only thing left to determine now is the length of the riser:
  • If we choose 18.5cm like for the original riser the user will be able to easily plug/unplug the riser from the motherboard BUT there will be about 5mm of slack sticking out top and potentially getting caught by the shell upon insertion/extraction.
  • If we choose 18cm the risk of the riser getting caught by the shell will be eliminated, as there will be no slack; however, you'd first need to insert the unmounted riser into the motherboard and then screw the riser down to the spine (2 screws), then insert the GPU.
IMO 18cm is definitely the way to go, as I feel that sacrificing 2-3 minutes of convenience and gaining a heavily reduced risk is the smart choice. I mean, how often will the average backer actually swap out their motherboard?



However, I'd really like to hear your thoughts and what you would personally choose :)
So is the Gen 3 riser at risk of snagging on all current builds? Will this be resolved on round 2 (November 2020 pre-orders)?

Asking for a friend..
 

AlexTzone

King of Cable Management
Original poster
THOR ZONE
Sep 23, 2017
892
2,178
thor-zone.com
So is the Gen 3 riser at risk of snagging on all current builds? Will this be resolved on round 2 (November 2020 pre-orders)?

Asking for a friend..

Gen3 cable is a lot more flexible and doesn’t stick out anywhere near the same way Gen4 version does. Never had problems with my Gen3 but as soon as we tested the same length Gen4 it constantly snagged the shell upon inserting/extracting.

Sidenote: considering still switching to 18cm for Batch 2/3 cases anyways. Even though we’ve not gotten more than 2 complaints about this it might still be worth it since it would be impossible (not just highly improbable) for those to snag. Sure it will sacrifice convenience when changing the motherboard but may still be worth it.
 
Last edited:

jhuylebroeck

Efficiency Noob
Nov 26, 2019
7
1
All fans as exhaust. This way fresh air comes in through the bottom, front and mainly through the GPU side. You can feel the airflow with your hand at the GPU side even if the GPU fans are not spinning. Works perfect.
I currently did the flipped PSU layout as well, but I mounted both Noctua Fans (H60 radiator + case fan) as intake, as suggested by @AlexTzone : THOR_ZONE_MJOLNIR_THERMALS.pdf (thor-zone.com) You're certain that your temps are better now, because @AlexTzone did the testing already, I thought?

I do have to say that installing the PSU "flipped" was a bit of a b*itch, because this required routing the AiO + tubing between the PSU, which made it impossible to screw in the PSU. So I had to remove the entire AiO first.

Installing my whole build has been a bit of pain and even now, I have the impression the case is way to "stuffed" with the magnets "barely" being strong enough to withstand the force of the cables, tubes,... pushing against everything on the bottom and sides, so I would really like some shorter custom PSU cables. Everything that helps!

Also, as the PSU wiring is now at the bottom, I can't use the mesh panel there and need to use the O2 panel for some extra space.
 

uber_shnitz

Average Stuffer
Oct 14, 2019
71
88
Has anyone tried using cable aggregators like the J-Hack kit for Corsair SFF PSUs? I figure it might help with cable management a bit and potentially with squeezing the AIO tubes since there would be less cables.
 

rudy44

Average Stuffer
Aug 31, 2017
74
37
Here's my complaints/compliments list:

Bigger complaints:
Shield of founders glass rattles and part of it is shattered.
There are some visible scratches on the outside of one of the performance panel.
Internal movement of the core can be felt when moving the case around.

Smaller complaints:
Inside of case scuffed a lot.
Power button rattles. (I'm not able to tighten this or don't know how to.)
Lock rattled. (I am able to tighten this.)
The rails rattled. (I am able to tighten this.)
Took me some time to eliminate front panel rattle. (Video was helpful!)
Countersunk screws don't fit noctua fans.
Screws are not magnetic.
O2 panel anodizing doesn't quite match the case.

Compliments/Suggestions:
Fantastic finish. (Perfect on the outside minus the single scuff)
Very well machined with acceptable tolerances on the panels.
O2 panel is beautiful and functional!
No issues with magnets or corners for mine.
Perfect amount of space for SFF components and cable management was quite easy. (Air cooled.)
The ease of having the fan on top is fantastic and something other similar form factor cases don't have. (I might be wrong.)
Beautiful piece but due to internal movement, probably not meant to be transported a lot.
It would be nice if cable ties were included to secure power supply cable/fan cables as they get snagged during sliding in and out.
The sliding of the core into the case could be smoother.

Photo of the O2 panel and case (slight color mismatch):
 

DASBOOT

Caliper Novice
Dec 31, 2017
32
28
I redid the original Corsair wiring with light blue transparent wiring from Moddyi. I supplied Moddyi with lengths and requested white Molexes. You can see original wiring in this thread at this link at my original post:
https://smallformfactor.net/forum/t...–-but-not-boring-–-9-7l-case.3500/post-249436
HERE IS THE NEW 24 PIN ATX:

8pin cpu:

24pin and 8pin over Be-quiet fan:

8 pin GPU at the card:

Wiring from the bottom of Be-Quiet: note fan frame prevents wires from dropping in:

Finally at the Powersupply the white Molex group:
 

N9neBreak3r

Cable-Tie Ninja
Jul 17, 2020
203
276
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