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I'm almost four months behind schedule on my keyboard. I just can't figure out the ISSI IS31FL3733 RGB LED Driver in QMK!!! TL;DR: RGB is so confusing.I don't dare at this pointThese parts are already a month behind schedule.
Super-mini update:
Today I lay-outed, plotted and submitted for production a breakout PCB for the Iris 16 LED ring. I also ordered the necessary parts and some soldering equipment. To save money and time, I'll try to solder this one myself. Should be fun with a 20pin connector with 0.5mm pin pitch
If everything goes well, the first functional prototype will be done in two weeks! Then I check whether the LEDs will be bright enough with the multiplexing method I'm using. That is the final go/no go hurdle to pass. If it works out, everything else "just needs to be done", but can pretty much be guaranteed to succeed.
Today I lay-outed, plotted and submitted for production a breakout PCB for the Iris 16 LED ring. I also ordered the necessary parts and some soldering equipment. To save money and time, I'll try to solder this one myself. Should be fun with a 20pin connector with 0.5mm pin pitch
If everything goes well, the first functional prototype will be done in two weeks! Then I check whether the LEDs will be bright enough with the multiplexing method I'm using. That is the final go/no go hurdle to pass. If it works out, everything else "just needs to be done", but can pretty much be guaranteed to succeed.
I always say, "Better to have it & not need it than to not have it & need it"...
Hey iFreilicht - I've been haunting this thread ever since I preordered my Sentry, and I have to say... I didn't think that this was going to come to reality in nearly as little time as it has. Just wanted you to know that I'm looking forward to it.
Hey man, glad to hear it! Funny that you're coming from the Sentry, just yesterday a guy posted in my thread on LTT saying the exact same thing
Well it hasn't become a reality yet, so let's not praise the day before nightfall. There's still a lot of stuff to do.
Mini-Update!
LED-Ring breakout PCB is in customs clearance right now, hopefully it will be here by the end of the week.
Little bit of an insight to the hardware prototyping process. To test out the multi-mode connections of a few of the pins, I had to mod my Arduino:
The setup in the last picture will allow me to test out a method for actually disabling the series resistors. If that works, I get a bit of additional freedom on the PCB design front. Let's see how it turns out!
I've also done a fair bit of work on the firmware prototype, more on that next time!
LED-Ring breakout PCB is in customs clearance right now, hopefully it will be here by the end of the week.
Little bit of an insight to the hardware prototyping process. To test out the multi-mode connections of a few of the pins, I had to mod my Arduino:
The setup in the last picture will allow me to test out a method for actually disabling the series resistors. If that works, I get a bit of additional freedom on the PCB design front. Let's see how it turns out!
I've also done a fair bit of work on the firmware prototype, more on that next time!
Excellent work! Can't believe I haven't been getting my notifications for this
Can't believe I haven't been getting my notifications for this
Site notifications or email notifications? Someone else had an issue with site notifications not showing up and clearing cookies and cache fixed it.
Site notifications. I just assumed more recent ones got priority. I'll try that and see if I start seeing things from other threads I've followed.
So, I have a question about this that you might not have thought about, but which actually might give a fair boost to how 'premium' the switch feels:
Is the button going to be clicky?
The reason I ask is because vandal switches simply just look like they're supposed to be clicky, but a lot of them just aren't. If it's not too much of a pain (I don't know how easy / difficult it would be), I would love it if this switch had a satisfying click when you press it.
Is the button going to be clicky?
The reason I ask is because vandal switches simply just look like they're supposed to be clicky, but a lot of them just aren't. If it's not too much of a pain (I don't know how easy / difficult it would be), I would love it if this switch had a satisfying click when you press it.
Oh, an even better idea: make the switch dualclickable.
There is a smd switch that has two clicks/contacts, one on 1mm and the second on 1,5mm or something in those dimensions.
Would be very convinient on the s4 for example, where you have only one switch, to hook it up with the "power" and "reset" motherboard connection and having two functions in one button.
Two models i found:
35-TDASMD6x6 - dimensions: 5.2x5.2mm, Height: 1.5mm, 1N, 50mA@12VDC
http://csd-electronics.de/Mechanisc...rse/Taster-Double-Action-6-4x6mm-SMD::21.html
35-TDASMD (SKRNPBE010) - dimensions: 6x6mm, Height: 0,9mm
Pushforce - 1. Switchpoint 0,78 N,
Pushforce - 2. Switchpoint 2,45 N,
http://csd-electronics.de/Mechanisc...ter/Diverse/Taster-Double-Action-SMD::22.html
Pdf:
http://csd-electronics.de/data/pdf/SKRNPBE010.pdf
There is a smd switch that has two clicks/contacts, one on 1mm and the second on 1,5mm or something in those dimensions.
Would be very convinient on the s4 for example, where you have only one switch, to hook it up with the "power" and "reset" motherboard connection and having two functions in one button.
Two models i found:
35-TDASMD6x6 - dimensions: 5.2x5.2mm, Height: 1.5mm, 1N, 50mA@12VDC
http://csd-electronics.de/Mechanisc...rse/Taster-Double-Action-6-4x6mm-SMD::21.html
35-TDASMD (SKRNPBE010) - dimensions: 6x6mm, Height: 0,9mm
Pushforce - 1. Switchpoint 0,78 N,
Pushforce - 2. Switchpoint 2,45 N,
http://csd-electronics.de/Mechanisc...ter/Diverse/Taster-Double-Action-SMD::22.html
Pdf:
http://csd-electronics.de/data/pdf/SKRNPBE010.pdf
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Cool idea, but how are you going to avoid constantly pressing it too far and doing the wrong thing? I know that it would drive me crazy.
Come on... its like saying "how are you going to avoid stabing your eye by using a fork to eat?"Cool idea, but how are you going to avoid constantly pressing it too far and doing the wrong thing? I know that it would drive me crazy.
I mean, such swich clearly exists, has two precise points, you decide how to push by the force you finger is producing.
On the other hand, you can make the on/off function delayed three seconds on the first pushpoint and the second pushpoint if you push it deeper, would be the reset function. (Or reverse them both, you choose which behaviour fits the best.
You could also disable this if its to complicated for you just by unpluging the reset cables.
@iFreilicht, what do you think ? Would this fit into your vision of your switch?
Such switches are also less commonly encountered and as nice as the idea might be - it could be for a reason. I personally would prefer two separate switches.Come on... its like saying "how are you going to avoid stabing your eye by using a fork to eat?"
I mean, such swich clearly exists, has two precise points, you decide how to push by the force you finger is producing.
On the other hand, you can make the on/off function delayed three seconds on the first pushpoint and the second pushpoint if you push it deeper, would be the reset function. (Or reverse them both, you choose which behaviour fits the best.
You could also disable this if its to complicated for you just by unpluging the reset cables.
Also AFAIK the controller in the IRIS doesn't do anything with deciding whether or not to turn the computer on. That would have to change because pressing internal switch #2 requires pressing internal switch #1
I would also prefer two seperate, but for example in case of the S4 mini case, there is only one hole for one switch so no second switch possible.
If not the controller, then every motherboard has a setting "instant" or "delayed 4 seconds" for the power button.
I think it would make the switch more applicable for more cases and... even if the switch would have two switchpoints, you dont have to use them if you dont want,
but even if you dont use them both, you could personalize which switchpoint turns your pc on, the deeper or the shorter other one.
EDIT: also i dont want to make the switch to complicated or expensive to make. Its only a suggestion/idea.
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