Production FormD T1 Classic (READ FIRST POST)

Increase volume from 9.8L to 10.5L to support MSI Suprim X 30XX?

  • Yes, worth the trade off to be more compatible with components

    Votes: 116 24.6%
  • No, not worth it b/c it is not better than the ROG 30XX, which fits now at <10L

    Votes: 355 75.4%

  • Total voters
    471

thelaughingman

SFF Guru
Jul 14, 2018
1,413
1,566
Other than that I have been looking at D5 pumps and they seem to be cooled better but have lower head pressure? Why do you consider the pump to be better to the point you won't go back?
head pressure is more important when there's more things that causes pressure drop - high-resistant blocks, fittings & adapters etc... But I find flow rate is more important, especially now that my loop is much more simplified. D5 is more durable than DDC (from what I can gather, plus it doesn't need a heatsink to raise endurance), plus it's quieter also. Though D5 is really not meant for SFF, most sub-20L don't really have proper support or clearance for it except the Winter One.

I'm actually contemplating going full out and building a complete system in a (big) drawer/ custom made cupboard with two nexxxos 1080 rads if I can't get the T1 to be silent....
why not utilise the T1 2x passthrough for external rads (Watercool MORA or Alphacool ones) in addition to your 1 internal rad? I've seen a few people done it and with a couple of DDC you still retain the mobility if and when necessary
 
  • Like
Reactions: DrHudacris

PKAWA

Master of Cramming
May 27, 2020
490
488
head pressure is more important when there's more things that causes pressure drop - high-resistant blocks, fittings & adapters etc... But I find flow rate is more important, especially now that my loop is much more simplified. D5 is more durable than DDC (from what I can gather, plus it doesn't need a heatsink to raise endurance), plus it's quieter also. Though D5 is really not meant for SFF, most sub-20L don't really have proper support or clearance for it except the Winter One.


why not utilise the T1 2x passthrough for external rads (Watercool MORA or Alphacool ones) in addition to your 1 internal rad? I've seen a few people done it and with a couple of DDC you still retain the mobility if and when necessary

It's an option for sure, but I don't really need it to be mobile because it doesn't get carried around. I really love the small and premium look the T1 gives me, but going external rad would mean there is no benefit to still use the case in my use case over a custom cupboard setup.
Haven't really decided on it because I'd rather make it work in the T1. So I'm going to try undervolting the cpu in a minute once again with settings optimum tech provided.
Prob won't do anything for temps but if they won't get worse it's a step further to getting this AMD chip under control.
I really feel that the bios is the main cause for the high temps, and somewhere in there must be a setting that doesn't affect performance but does affect temps.
 

MaZo

Average Stuffer
Dec 6, 2020
71
67
Don't really know, google states that it's 142W for the 5900x. So I thought I should be able to get the thing more quiet especially in idle. I have the pump running at 40% and somehow that equates to 3000rpm. Ek ddc 3.2 pwm. This is still fine for me although the pump does get warm to the touch at that speed. Meanwhile the fans ramp up to 1050rpm at least to get to 36c and level out there. I would really like to have them at 900rpm in idle because it's louder than I like. Meanwhile I've got a Noctua NF-A40x10 for the chipset and it's still getting to 64c. Idle! Pretty crazy because I've replaced the thermal pad of the chip and of the m.2 heatsink with a much better one too and can't keep the temps below 60. But glad that you are able to give me some insight with your cpu. Thanks for that.
Let me guess, you’re using an Asus X570 or B550 mobo? I have the Asus Strix X570-I and the chipset is running 6000 rpm / 65 degrees idle, 8000-9000 rpm / 90 degrees under load. Tried replacing the thermal pad but that didn’t make a difference.
 

PKAWA

Master of Cramming
May 27, 2020
490
488
Let me guess, you’re using an Asus X570 or B550 mobo? I have the Asus Strix X570-I and the chipset is running 6000 rpm / 65 degrees idle, 8000-9000 rpm / 90 degrees under load. Tried replacing the thermal pad but that didn’t make a difference.
Jup spot on! I have the Asus X570-i....

Without the extra noctua fan the chipset is running idle temps of 69c at 25c ambient with the chipset fan doing 5200rpm.
With it set to 3300 or so rpm it stays at 64 roughly and the chipset fan at 3200 or so.
Under load/gaming 82c and 7800 rpm without secondary fan.
With the secondary fan roughly 75 to max 77c
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: MaZo

paulesko

Master of Cramming
Jul 31, 2019
415
322
Jup spot on! I have the Asus X570-i....

Without the extra noctua fan the chipset is running idle temps of 69c at 25c ambient with the chipset fan doing 5200rpm.
With it set to 3300 or so rpm it stays at 64 roughly and the chipset fan at 3200 or so.
Under load/gaming 82c and 7800 rpm without secondary fan.
With the secondary fan roughly 75 to max 77c
I have the i strix and also the gigabyte x570 itx board. The gigabyte for some reason runs waay cooler and you can tune the fan so it doesn´t even spin until high temp (60 deg if I recall corerctly). Teh gigabyte is a way better solution for a quiet pc
 

PKAWA

Master of Cramming
May 27, 2020
490
488
Thanks for the heads up!
Unfortunately it's lacking one USB3.0 header on the motherboard which i need and 2 usb headers in the back.
 
Last edited:

PKAWA

Master of Cramming
May 27, 2020
490
488

biopunk

Airflow Optimizer
Sep 24, 2020
248
359
I've already ordered one in 185mm. Should be the one.
Can you compare the performance in 3.0 and 4.0 modes in BIOS with that riser, please?
I wonder if there is any performance penalty in 4.0 mode similar to what we've seen on Linkup's older revisions. You can use this spreadsheet as a reference point.
 

PKAWA

Master of Cramming
May 27, 2020
490
488
i will have a look at it.
Seems a little pointless to me because results will also be different everytime because of temps?
I've ran timespy twice for example and it will not give me consistent scores because of heat build up.
But so far I've tested the Linkup riser that is installed right now in pcie 4.0 mode and will compare those results to the ADT riser also in 4.0 mode.
Will that work for you?
 
Last edited:

Flaringegg

What's an ITX?
New User
May 15, 2021
1
0
Support 46mm under the mobo for Radiator + Fan:
  • 20.5mm TX240 radiator + *dual 25mm thick fans
-------------------------------------------------------------
TX240 radiator is about 22mm thick, this is the result of measuring multiple TX240.
 

flar

Average Stuffer
Jan 19, 2020
78
46
Apparently there is a new AGESA that lowers the TDP of the chipset to the point where newer 570 MB don't need a fan on it...?

 

MaZo

Average Stuffer
Dec 6, 2020
71
67
This wouldn't happen to be the new riser, would it?


I'd like to order one if so. Else, will grab a PCIE4.0 from Linkup (23cm single reverse).
Could also be this one?
 

Wahaha360

a.k.a W360
Original poster
SFFLAB
NCASE
SSUPD
Feb 23, 2015
2,131
10,697
With the great help both on reddit and sff, I've built up my v1.1 successfully! However I've run into a small issue of unable to screw in the top plate as the screw threads are worn out.

I've written to support and they've feedback to me they don't have spare parts for my black v1.1

I'm wondering, can I ask your help to purchase the top plate standalone? Or perhaps can I order a v1.1 when new stocks are released?
I've written to support and they've feedback to me they don't have spare parts for my black v1.1

I'm wondering, can I ask your help to purchase the top plate standalone? Or perhaps can I order a v1.1 when new stocks are released?

The top/bottom panel screw holes were the bane of my existence too! I suggest to move up the screw size - T1 uses M3 so use M4 now to self-tap those holes. There's literally no spare parts to purchase

What about longer screws? That should solve the problem also no?
 

ionicle88

Minimal Tinkerer
New User
Jun 7, 2021
4
1
The top/bottom panel screw holes were the bane of my existence too! I suggest to move up the screw size - T1 uses M3 so use M4 now to self-tap those holes. There's literally no spare parts to purchase
hmm, good idea! do you have any recommendations for thumbscrews with a larger thread size?
 

thelaughingman

SFF Guru
Jul 14, 2018
1,413
1,566
That's a swell idea as well. I'll go check out the thumbscrews that's available on Aliexpress.
good luck! if you find a good one please share here so v1.1 owners can source it themselves if need be

9mm wide head and 6mm thread length for the originals so 10mm thread length would be best.
thanks man! hope this change makes it in v1.5 to fix the issue for good!