It's all in the VRAM. Doesn't matter if you plan to buy a new video card within the next year or so, but if you plan to keep your build for 3+ years, 10GB may start being a limitation.
2020-11-28: Asus ROG STRIX 3070, 3080, 3090 compatibility will require a new Front T-Frame.
Got the last piece of the puzzle - Corsair 3080 FE water block. Tested intake and exhaust for the side radiator. Turns out exhaust is slightly better. Results in Reddit post:
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there's only 2mm gap between the shroud and the core of the TX240, if you sand down the A12x25 enough to close the lid, the fan blade would hit the core and not spinning. Best is to use the Hanjiang 17mm thick rad or wait for @Wahaha360 to get around to do a custom 17mm thick high FPI rad
@Wahaha360 Does this mean that cases for the december batch will be send with a reworked T frame?2020-11-28: Asus ROG STRIX 3070, 3080, 3090 compatibility will require a new Front T-Frame.
I have an order with you but depending on the changes to the case in the near future I'd like to wait for them before you ship the final product that's why I ask.
Could you give me some more insight?
I bought the "LINKUP - Ultra PCIe 4.0 X16 Riser Cable [NVIDIA RTX3080 Tested] Twin-axial Vertical Mount Gaming PCI Express Gen4 | Dual Reverse Connectors {20 cm} Designed for ITX+NVIDIA ONLY."
The ribbon cables are stiff to the point where I can't bend them down enough (near the mobo PCIE slot) to get the bottom panel on the case. I've crammed a 3090 FE into my T1, so maybe the height of the GPU is the issue. Has anyone been able to get this to work?
The ribbon cables are stiff to the point where I can't bend them down enough (near the mobo PCIE slot) to get the bottom panel on the case. I've crammed a 3090 FE into my T1, so maybe the height of the GPU is the issue. Has anyone been able to get this to work?
Having issues with the EVGA RTX 3080 FTW3 Ultra and the SF750 stock cables. First the stock cables are too long. This is causing issues on both sides of the case. Also cannot get the bottom panel over the GPU side because the power cables stick out too much and cannot be bent or moved any more.
Any ideas? Shorter cables will help on the CPU side but the GPU will need a 90-angled connector or something...
You could flip the PSU and that would help with cables on the CPU side, but I would get custom cables from pslate for the GPU. And if you end up going that route, tell him you want some shorter PCIe connectors for the GPU, he will cut them down and that will give you more room to work with. You can also probably lower the riser a tad to get some extra room.
Having issues with the EVGA RTX 3080 FTW3 Ultra and the SF750 stock cables. First the stock cables are too long. This is causing issues on both sides of the case. Also cannot get the bottom panel over the GPU side because the power cables stick out too much and cannot be bent or moved any more.
Any ideas? Shorter cables will help on the CPU side but the GPU will need a 90-angled connector or something...
Thanks for the advice. I will start with the cables. Do you think they will fit with the shorter connectors or will I need to do more?
Shorter connectors are the main thing that will help. People have fit this card in this case before, and with unmodified cables IIRC, so you should be fine.
Biggest problem with the SF750 pcie cables is that they are 8 to dual 6+2 connections. So you have all this extra bulk you dont want.
Having issues with the EVGA RTX 3080 FTW3 Ultra and the SF750 stock cables. First the stock cables are too long. This is causing issues on both sides of the case. Also cannot get the bottom panel over the GPU side because the power cables stick out too much and cannot be bent or moved any more.
Any ideas? Shorter cables will help on the CPU side but the GPU will need a 90-angled connector or something...
Navic is exactly right. Custom cables will solve all of your problems. And shaving a couple mm's from the molex connector will help considerably. That is what I was planning on doing before my XC3 ultra arrived.
Spent sometime sanding today, and I just want to report that I was able to sand down the both NF-A12x25 fans to fit on top of the TX240, and still able to spin. Also had to flip the radiator bracket down to save another 1mm.
The one toward the IO shield has to be 0.89in (22.6mm) or less, while the one on the PSU side can be slightly thicker 0.90in - 0.91in (~23mm), but best to keep both the same size if you don't any bulges.
@ponster can you take a picture of the fans now please (would be great if you could take some measurements to go with them)? So you took out 2.4mm on both fans? I didn't think the blade is recessed that much against the frame, especially given that 2mm off the A12x15 frame and the blade now protrudes out of the frame already.
Here are some pictures. Sorry, I do not own a digital caliper, but yes, around 2.4mm was sanded. The blades on these fans are slightly lower than the core of the fan, so once you hit the core, you should stop. I also sanded a little bit off on the exhaust side. I took off the sticker, start sanding until I hit the metal bearing. Make sure to tuck in the wires or shield them off.
very interesting! so was the 2.4mm entirely on the intake side or that includes the exhaust side as well? the way I did it was with a CNC machine, don't think I would risk it on the exhaust side since it may affect structural integrity and the knife blade may hit the hub/motor inadvertently. glad it works out for you!Here are some pictures. Sorry, I do not own a digital caliper, but yes, around 2.4mm was sanded. The blades on these fans are slightly lower than the core of the fan, so once you hit the core, you should stop. I also sanded a little bit off on the exhaust side. I took off the sticker, start sanding until I hit the metal bearing. Make sure to tuck in the wires or shield them off.
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