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Production FormD T1 Classic (READ FIRST POST)

Increase volume from 9.8L to 10.5L to support MSI Suprim X 30XX?

  • Yes, worth the trade off to be more compatible with components

    Votes: 116 24.6%
  • No, not worth it b/c it is not better than the ROG 30XX, which fits now at <10L

    Votes: 356 75.4%

  • Total voters
    472

notbitcoin

Average Stuffer
Aug 3, 2019
77
204
Thank you for thinking outside the box with the 90 degrees PSU orientation. The simplicity of the 24pin cable have inspired me to do the same. Though I am not done with it, so far its looking good.
Very nice! One suggestion I have based on the couple hours I've rolled the case around to try and figure this out is to use the two holes in the front panel to secure your mount. They're roughly the same width as the provided bracket (and they even line up with holes on each side of the bracket), so they give you an idea of where a good spot to "place" your PSU at (as all panels will fit with the PSU in this position).

Right now I have the mount like this (the included "medium"-length standoffs screwed in to each hole, and the bracket resting on top of them), but I ordered six different L-brackets last night to see if one can be used to secure the PSU mount to the front panel.


Monday or Tuesday should be a big day for me. I have more fittings, tubing, and the brackets coming in, so I should be able to get all four panels on then and hopefully have a secure PSU mount.

I will say that transitioning my parts to the T1 was a bit rough initially (dropping from ~15L to ~10L, and first time working in a sandwich-style case), but the more time you mess around with it, the more fun it is to work in (as you learn how to access each part). I've already started referring to mine as "Bertha" because I feel like you can just slap flour on it and roll it around until you find the "wet" spot.
 

PKAWA

Master of Cramming
May 27, 2020
490
488
If anyone is interested here is the Taobao link for the OLED screen version. It's rather expensive of course.
I am hoping Optimum Tech sees this and posts a video on it.

Edit: Here is the other model.
64mm high. I'm not sure this is a good option for the T1, although it looks nice. Link
Oh and now that i think about it, that's without the connectors mounted on top.
 
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vusun123

Average Stuffer
Jul 10, 2020
88
66
@DrHudacris just making a joke with @notbitcoin

When notbitcoin give his T1 name Bertha and feeling happy, when so many potential T1 he can explore with it. Don't take seriously.
I know, was a bit sarcasm there too. Oh well, at least I will have my loop completed in the Ghost S1 for a while before I get my hands on the T1. There shouldn't be any big changes to the tube/fittings I assume ?
 
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worldtour

Average Stuffer
Jul 24, 2019
56
133
I will say that transitioning my parts to the T1 was a bit rough initially (dropping from ~15L to ~10L, and first time working in a sandwich-style case), but the more time you mess around with it, the more fun it is to work in (as you learn how to access each part).

On the other hand, many of us are beaming with excitement going from 7.2 L to ~10 L

My poor Dan A4 case all those months running like a toaster with poor airflow, but finally getting time to cool off
 

HaX

Efficiency Noob
Dec 8, 2019
6
3
I just want to say thank you so much for your time and effort in creating this case. Amazing work with the design, aesthetics, and behind the scene logistics. Great work! Looking forward to getting one of these and probably another one when additional colorways and sidepanels come out.
 

JRey

Average Stuffer
Jun 27, 2020
79
179
First time "custom" watercooling (actually just changing the tube HAHA),
Disassembled LT240 today and prepare for the T1 to come,
just want to share my excitement with you all and hope you guys wouldn't mind seeing this noob move~Cheers

Be sure to flush your rad and take apart your CPU block. I recently disassembled a brand new LT240 to prepare for my build and found a LOT of particles in the rad (used Primochill Rad Cleaner) and also plasticizer all inside the CPU block.
 

fabio

Shrink Ray Wielder
Apr 6, 2016
1,885
4,325
Yup that's pretty much it. You just don't have the same ease of mind. I know it's a very low chance of things happening but i just feel more comfortable with it. I also like the rigidity it adds as well.

I'm disappointed that I have to wait for the backplate because no one had them instock and they were sold separately. I'm moving on from my 2070 super to try a smaller pcb 5700 xt that is 228 with the waterblock on. I'm hoping to put in a regular tube res/pump combo. I'm going to test fitment in a larger case first but thy both only house 330mm cards. i know it won't be exact and I'm not sure how the res would attach to the T1 yet. The iceman would probably work too, again, if I can find a way to mount it
With just a 228mm you can have a standard Res/Pump combo!
 
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SoSquidTaste

SFF Lingo Aficionado
Feb 26, 2018
138
213
First time "custom" watercooling (actually just changing the tube HAHA),
Disassembled LT240 today and prepare for the T1 to come,
just want to share my excitement with you all and hope you guys wouldn't mind seeing this noob move~Cheers


Bravo! Looking clean. Looks like you replaced the fittings too, right? Any heartache removing the old fittings / tubing? I seem to recall a couple others in thread here saying it was a pain and a half.

Basically I'm looking for encouragement to schedule time to prep my own LT240 like you did yours :]

Be sure to flush your rad and take apart your CPU block. I recently disassembled a brand new LT240 to prepare for my build and found a LOT of particles in the rad (used Primochill Rad Cleaner) and also plasticizer all inside the CPU block.

Eyyy good lookin out. I was going to assume that my NIB was cool to just empty and refill, but I'll try that radiator cleaner as well just to be safe.
 
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m0rr13

Chassis Packer
Jun 16, 2020
14
14
Be sure to flush your rad and take apart your CPU block. I recently disassembled a brand new LT240 to prepare for my build and found a LOT of particles in the rad (used Primochill Rad Cleaner) and also plasticizer all inside the CPU block.
Thanks for the advice!
I don't think I can easily get the cleaner in my town, is distilled water good enough to do the job?
 

JRey

Average Stuffer
Jun 27, 2020
79
179
Thanks for the advice!
I don't think I can easily get the cleaner in my town, is distilled water good enough to do the job?
Distilled water will be fine. Just keep flushing until you don't see particles coming out of the radiator. I used Primochill Rad Cleaner since there's a visual indicator (liquid turns blue-ish color) if it dissolves anything. It will eventually become clear with each flush. Took me 3 hours (1 hour of sitting in the rad each time per the instructions).

For the CPU block, I used a toothbrush and distilled water and scrubbed everything. I plan to do a 2nd pass before I build the loop, and to also soak the copper block in some lemon juice with toothbrush scrubbing to remove some gunk that formed around the rubber seal area. Of course, i'll rinse it with distilled prior to reassembling the loop.
 

m0rr13

Chassis Packer
Jun 16, 2020
14
14
Bravo! Looking clean. Looks like you replaced the fittings too, right? Any heartache removing the old fittings / tubing? I seem to recall a couple others in thread here saying it was a pain and a half.

Basically I'm looking for encouragement to schedule time to prep my own LT240 like you did yours :]



Eyyy good lookin out. I was going to assume that my NIB was cool to just empty and refill, but I'll try that radiator cleaner as well just to be safe.
It was extremely hard to lose the original fittings / tubings using barehand!

I did it by wrapping paper around the fitting and lose it with a flat pliers, it is way more easier!
 
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