Lol at them omitting critical dimensions on what is intended to look like a real mechanical drawing. Technically, it should have a third view, callouts for the holes, among other things, but I digress. Why wouldn't EK just release their actual CAD drawing instead of this pseudo-technical drawing with incomplete information?
0Zx
There has been extensive testing using different water cooling setups. Check starting around page 10 in this thread.
Yahoo! Have finished my build. Sharing some photos, and hope they may help others. The difficulties I came upon were mainly the cause of not knowing the orders of steps - what to fix before what. But the biggest challenge was of course cable management.
Because the drawing is meant for your average consumer. A full orthogonal drawing with a BOM is completely overkill and confusing. A CAD model is only beneficial to people with the know how to pull data from it. And no company is going to give you a complete engineering drawing for their product. A pseudo-technical drawing is more than you are going to get from most companies for any of their products.
Also when doing these drawings you only add views if there are critical dimensions you cannot pull from the other views. Callouts are also pointless because the fitting and screw holes are standardized and listed in the other specs, at least for the fittings.
So yeh. That drawing really only needed 1 additional dimension that would allow you to determine everything else.
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For you cheapscapes out there like me you can mod the AM3 bracket for the Eisbaer to take AM4. It's a bit janky but it does work. Yet to check clearance of fittings on my motherboard because it will mount on a slight angle now. But worst-case scenario it doesnt fit. Btw I did this because there isnt a shop that offers the AM4 Bracket for a reasonable price including shipping for Australia.
I hit it with some black primer then some clear to seal the metal back up. Didnt have any black paint on hand, unfortunately.
I'd recommend wider washers if you do this mod also.
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Here you are!
fabio and anyone else with the EK SE240 Classic, can we get some dimensions?
I might make a hard tube kit for this radiator.
Whats the performance level of this radiator btw? Couldn't find any reviews. Ive read the standard sE240 is poo.Here you are!
Guess all the 240 rads of similar spec would all be within a degree or 2 of eachother.
Actually the reviews of the standard CoolStream SE240 are related to the previous version, the 26mm. Now there is the new version of 28mm (I have no clue what has changed and the thermal performance difference!)
The performance of the one I have, I don't know actually! I did a few test before with the EKWB and the Alphacool LT, but they were using different blocks, so we cannot really compare those numbers.
BUT, I agree that there will be only 2/3 degrees of difference between rads with similar specs.
@Wahaha360 My GPU bracket doesn't line up properly:
Anyone else with their case having this same issue? I can only either get the L shaped bracket on, or the top bracket on... but not both at the same time.
Anyone else with their case having this same issue? I can only either get the L shaped bracket on, or the top bracket on... but not both at the same time.
I had the same at the beginning! If you can move down the riser and push down a bit the GPU.@Wahaha360 My GPU bracket doesn't line up properly:
Anyone else with their case having this same issue? I can only either get the L shaped bracket on, or the top bracket on... but not both at the same time.
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I had the same issue! I was using PCI slot covers for the empty slots and they are too thick. I removed those and then the screw holes did fit. But I see that you are not using blank slot covers. Maybe wiggle the GPU to and fro? I think if the slots on the PCI hold down bracket were slotted a bit more (right now they look ovoid, so just a bit more) and it would work.
@DrHudacris @fabio I took everything apart again to make sure I wasn't missing something or had something installed incorrectly, and everything is installed the way it should be. I tried a lot of different ways to get it to work, and I finally said fuck it and bent the lip of the L shaped lower GPU bracket as sloppily shown in the below image:
Either that bracket needs to be bent more out of the factory, or the hole @DrHudacris mentioned on the upper GPU bracket needs to be cut like a fan/radiator mounting rail like the below sloppily shown image:
I'd say the hole being a rail would make more sense than cutting the two separate holes, but I'll leave that up to @Wahaha360 to decide.
Back to the build! I'll hopefully have some build pics to post later.
Either that bracket needs to be bent more out of the factory, or the hole @DrHudacris mentioned on the upper GPU bracket needs to be cut like a fan/radiator mounting rail like the below sloppily shown image:
I'd say the hole being a rail would make more sense than cutting the two separate holes, but I'll leave that up to @Wahaha360 to decide.
Back to the build! I'll hopefully have some build pics to post later.
@Brude27 @DrHudacris @fabio I had this issue on another case. It would be good to have some margin like a rail because it's all about tolerances. In my case bending was also necessary but probably in other direction.
@DrHudacris @fabio I took everything apart again to make sure I wasn't missing something or had something installed incorrectly, and everything is installed the way it should be. I tried a lot of different ways to get it to work, and I finally said fuck it and bent the lip of the L shaped lower GPU bracket as sloppily shown in the below image:
Either that bracket needs to be bent more out of the factory, or the hole @DrHudacris mentioned on the upper GPU bracket needs to be cut like a fan/radiator mounting rail like the below sloppily shown image:
I'd say the hole being a rail would make more sense than cutting the two separate holes, but I'll leave that up to @Wahaha360 to decide.
Back to the build! I'll hopefully have some build pics to post later.
I agree that if the rail was a bit longer and the entire secure-bracket offset by 0.3mm there will be no issue!
BTW, I've setup the fan speed in the BIOS having them in step 20%-40C, 50%-55C-80%-75C.
Basically the max fan speed is 1450rpm! The build now is more silent than before!
Here a temp screenshot while rendering in Vray for Rhino. Maybe I've lost 1 degree? The chipset as well is 2 degrees warmer.
(but again, I am above a turned on radiator
).The pump is SUPER SILENT! I think having it suspended between the radiator and the GPU avoids the vibration on the chassis.
I agree that if the rail was a bit longer and the entire secure-bracket offset by 0.3mm there will be no issue!
BTW, I've setup the fan speed in the BIOS having them in step 20%-40C, 50%-55C-80%-75C.
Basically the max fan speed is 1450rpm! The build now is more silent than before!
Here a temp screenshot while rendering in Vray for Rhino. Maybe I've lost 1 degree? The chipset as well is 2 degrees warmer.
(but again, I am above a turned on radiator
The pump is SUPER SILENT! I think having it suspended between the radiator and the GPU avoids the vibration on the chassis.
If you didn't have the option for the pump you have. Would you have used the LT Solo? Or would you have found some other solution?
I think I would go first with the Apogee Drive II, (but on my motherboard the mounting bracket is 1mm to big so scratch a bit the VRM heatsink).
Trying first the DDC PMW 18W (if you have the fan header supporting 24W/2A, you can rewire it as well) and having it working at 40% to have it silent.
Than I will try the EKWB DDC MX 3.1 6W pump PMW always with the Apogee.
(I've tried the MX310from Alphacool, but I didn't like the pitch noise).
If I will be not comfortable with temps,noise/fill the loop with quick disconnect ,etc, I will stay for sure with the LT Solo.
Is a great pump, especially if you want to watercool only the CPU! I guess my flow is pretty good because the pump is just before the radiator, and all my blocks are very low restrictive!
Update on my build: ran into some snags. The GPX pro Solo mounting results in the hardware protruding behind the GPU about 11mm which is way too much. Thanks to someone (I'm sorry I forgot who, might have been @fabio) mentioning the purpose of the small tabs as a way to use bifurcation, moved the riser to the second slot and was able to seat the GPU with cooler. I also switched back to slim Silverstone fans instead of 20mm Deepcool fans, just to have some more room to work on the motherboard and to prevent PSU cables from interfering with fan. I could have inverted the PSU but then the tubing run would not have worked out from motherboard.
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