They should all be M3 screws, which you can usually find at most hardware stores (if in the US, I can confirm Home Depot does). Not sure of the length, but I’d just take one of the other screws with you to compare at the store.Hello,
I recently built my Dan A4 and lost one of the screws while building how can I replace it
Does anyone know it’s exact size and where I can get it from ?
Thanks
Well, this is it then, my solution on dropping the M.2 temps in my system.
Before it was the Samsung 970PRO 512GB mounted on the rear of the motherboard, resulting in high 70's temps under load.
Now, with this setup, bringing the M.2 to the front using a ADT-Link cable, adding a EK cooler and actively cooling the heatsink, it results in mid 40's under load.
I am happy with this result.
Just waiting for a more high quality fan to come in and then I'm finishing up on the cables.
It is mounted using a 3D printed part strapping onto the PCI-E connector. This screws onto the ADT-Link extender and ads a mount for the fan.
V4.1
- 3M™ 8KC3-0726-0300 PCIe® x16 Gen4 riser
- USB 3.2 gen2 Type-C front port with internal Key-A
V4.1 is listed on Caseking (silver only, right now).
Changelog on dan-cases.com:
Looks like I'm going to have to wait for an AM4 ITX board with a Key-A (/Type E) header.
Take a look at this, the soldered 9900k runs cooler than the one with Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut and you don't gain much using liquid metal.I just bought the V4.0 earlier today. All well. I am looking to install a Netgear AC1900 adapter internally with a USB key A to type A adapter.
I will likely just use 3M double sided tape to attach the adapter to the back of the PSU and hopefully it all works just fine.. Once I get my case I will provide some benchmarks on how well the 9900K and 2080 XC work in this case. Both with stock paste on the GPU and CPU then also with Kryonaut on both the GPU and a Copper IHS delided CPU. I would go Conductonaut but I see that liquid metal doesn't play well with copper.
Take a look at this, the soldered 9900k runs cooler than the one with Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut and you don't gain much using liquid metal.
Take a look at this, the soldered 9900k runs cooler than the one with Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut and you don't gain much using liquid metal.
So I am about to build in this case and I am wondering what some of you guys have had experience with deliding CPUs for the cooling for this case. I am looking at the i9-9900k but I plan on deliding it and using a Copper IHS from Rockit Cool with Kryonaut thermal paste. I know liquid metal would work better but I don't want to have to take off the IHS each year, or two, just to re-do the liquid metal. With this CPU I would also use the Asetek 92mm AIO with a Noctua fan. Would it be likely that I would see less than 85C under most benchmarks? I will mostly game but I am planing on streaming soon too and try to get into animation stuff as well.
My GPU is a 2080 Super that will fit in this case well too.
IHS is integrated heat spreader that is soldered to the CPU die, Intel previously did this up until the Ivy Lake. With Ivy Lake Intel started to use TIM between the IHS and the die, this was not as efficient for heat transfer and that is when you saw the start of delidding. With liquid metal people saw marked improvements in CPU temps. Intel continued to use TIM until the release of their 9th generation. My 8700k used TIM and by delidding and applying liquid metal I saw a full 20C improvement in temps. A 9900k will see a slight improvement with liquid metal. Silicon Lottery, who offer a delidding service, report only 3 - 7C better temps.
If it was me I would not even bother, the improvement is not enough to justify voiding the warranty.
Significantly! Here is what I've tested on: i7 8700 (not K) + GTX 1070 + Noctua NH l9i fins vertically + polished ductIts probably been discussed here already however how does a fan under the motherboard impact the temps?
Significantly! Here is what I've tested on: i7 8700 (not K) + GTX 1070 + Noctua NH l9i fins vertically + polished duct
The bottom underMB fan (blower) reduces the temps 5-7 degrees in extreme conditions. It doesn't do much in normal/idle mode, but when the room temps rise or when you stress your components ingame, it stabilizes the temps around safe 72 degrees (for me) when without this, I can grow even up to 82 when the room temp gets over 30°C. And not just that! It also removes the heat from the problematic midzone GPU/CPU.
Bottom fan as intake is not useful much in the duct scenario. Would be probably much more useful on less effective no-duct.
The second bottom fan which would be under PSU is completely useless, wouldn't even bother. Waste of money. It will only increase your noise levels.
The last thing I tried is 120mm fan in the AIO Bracket (GPU side). With a 25mm thick fan, the difference is negligible. I think 14mm fan would be much more appropriate here. Anyway, the case itself can get really hot, like 60+ degrees I would say and AIO bracket fan can definitely cool this down like minus 20-30. But what for (it chokes the GPU a bit but reduce the temp on CPU by -2 degrees while significantly rising the noise levels)
Another thing to improve is a single fan above CPU as M-jeri shows, if you want to be perfect, i would make there circulation doubling that - one sucker, one blower, but really not something necessary.
So from what I've learned and what I think is the best setup unless you are a huge fan of AIOs:
Noctua NH l9i vertically, 1x noctua nf A9x14 PWM on bottom, AIO Bracket with 120x120x14 mm Noctua and you are ok.
I've got my hands on the new ASRock X570 Phantom Gaming-ITX/TB3 and did a little PCB analysis and VRM Breakdown!
Its german...I know! But if you're just looking for a first little impression...CHECK IT OUT! <3
That is too bad, I see people reporting the same issue with the Sliger SM cases, PSU sits right next to the SATA connectors.So I had this board for a week now.
Absolutely regret getting this. I need a 2.5" HDD to work. I dump all my work test data into a second data drive. Something I been doing for over a decade. But alas, no dice. I am using the low profile SATA connector and the image is with the 4 PSU screws off...
But completely my mistake. New to SFF and I wanted TB3. Overlooked the SATA connector type. So as soon as the strix board comes in, this goes out. Hopefully that works out.