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(COMPLETE) SFF Inception: NFC Skyreach 4 MINI Brickless Build Log
- Thread starter seven7thirty30
- Start date
Thankfully I have amassed a collection of 3 prong power cables from printers, power supplies, etc that I can play with.
Any suggestions on how to start modding them? Any pitfalls or advice?
I am leaning towards a brickless build in a S4M but if need be, I'll just use the HDP400 as an Ext. brick.
Newest release of S4M supposedly enlarged the cutout that you can fit screw mount C6 inlet. Most people would just cut either the C8 or the C14 cable extension that hdplex comes with, and solder that into the inlet. You then just need to find a normal iec c5 power cable.
Aviation connector does look awesome though...
Aviation connector does look awesome though...
Update: Build is complete. Here are the final pictures. I'm not a photographer by any stretch of the imagination. Just working with what I have the best that I can. This journey has been extremely rewarding. Thank you all for your comments and suggestions. Thank you Josh@NFC, and all of you on the NFC Discord channel. See you during the next build!
Inception: Skyreach 4 MINI - Deus Ex Theme Build
Inception: Skyreach 4 MINI - Deus Ex Theme Build
I love this. Makes me wish i had a reason to build another SFF PC in an S4M.. so my #193 S4M-C doesn't have to be so lonely. Very inspiring build. Thank you so much for sharing it, truly. 
I love this. Makes me wish i had a reason to build another SFF PC in an S4M.. so my #193 S4M-C doesn't have to be so lonely. Very inspiring build. Thank you so much for sharing it, truly.
Thank you for taking to time to view my build log. I appreciate your kind words.
I am currently building a Skyreach mini and wondering if I can get some thoughts on the best configuration to keep it from running hot when complete. Specs:
Case: S4M
MOBO: x470-I Gaming
CPU: Ryzen 7 3700x
Cooler: Noctua l9a
GPU: Zotac RTX 2070 Super Mini
SSD's: 2 500gb 970 evo plus nvme
HHD's: 2 5tb 2.5 inch
PSU: 400w HDPLEX AC and DC for brickless build
Fans: 2 noctua nf-9's to replace gpu fans.
My thoughts were to replace the l9a with cryorig c7 + noctua fan but not sure if that would be the best route? Just want it the PC to not fry lol
Case: S4M
MOBO: x470-I Gaming
CPU: Ryzen 7 3700x
Cooler: Noctua l9a
GPU: Zotac RTX 2070 Super Mini
SSD's: 2 500gb 970 evo plus nvme
HHD's: 2 5tb 2.5 inch
PSU: 400w HDPLEX AC and DC for brickless build
Fans: 2 noctua nf-9's to replace gpu fans.
My thoughts were to replace the l9a with cryorig c7 + noctua fan but not sure if that would be the best route? Just want it the PC to not fry lol
I would orientate the fans to always blow air over the components (pulling air from outside the case). I don''t think you'll have an issue with the Noctua L9i cooler. You're going to need to shift the GPU towards the motherboard via modification of the GPU bracket or making/purchasing a custom bracket to accomplish the shift. Case thermals are much better when the case is in a vertical position with the GPU on top.
How did you find the thermals or performance, with the S4M in the horizontal position ; i.e. using the case feet @Josh | NFC machined for it? I find that it elevates the case about an inch about a desk or floor. I am not sure how the GPU could be better, unless I did the Noctua mod on it.
M.
Just curious where I can get a gpu bracket made, was looking the other day and noticed that will be my only option on the 2070 super mini because of the bigger PCB than the 2070 mini. I need to have the button in the middle also, so need to have a new front panel cut/ another skybracket for my hdd's. Also what 90 degree riser did you use? The one that comes with it, will cause it to not be able to fit with the hdplex. I need 25.7 mm tall roughly. Could you possibly let me know with some links possibly to the tools and such for making the cables shorter/ aviation plug and power button. I been waiting for this build for over a year lol. I appreciate it
Josh@NFC did some testing on vertical and horizontal positions. His conclusion was that a vertical position provided the best cooling. I think he even made a video about it. You won't really gain any cooling performance with the Noctua fan mod. You only gain reduced noise levels. If you were able to use higher static pressure fans then you would get better cooling results.
Have you joined the NFC Discord channel? There is a ton of information about the S4M. You'll find all your answers there with examples of real builds.
WOW.... I'm new here and just started to look through some of the forum threads, happened to come across this. As I read through the whole build log, each idea or teaser you would show was like, hey that's pretty cool... or, hey that aviator plug is pretty sweet... and of course the iPad screen got an ooooh nice!! response out of me. But seeing the final finished product come together, with the case, accessories, and everything.. WOW that is absolutely amazing!! Masterpiece is an understatement for sure.
Thank you for taking the time to read through the build. I genuinely appreciate your comments. It was a great experience for me, and I've been enjoying the final product immensely.
I don't know if you agree with me or simply translate your project to the Chinese community.
https://www.deipin.com/8969.html
https://www.deipin.com/8969.html
Udpate: Traveled home this past weekend. I've been busier than I want to be. I did have time to do a testing mock up of the iPad screen and the full assembly of the case. So far everything is working better than expected. I have no coil whine from the HDPlex, or the GPU (a problem that a lot of people seem to be having). I'm developing a new bezel for the iPad LCD that will be cleaner without screws to mount it to the side panel. I'm going to make it very thin and light and use some 3M double sided automotive tape to hold it in place. I also decided that black is a much better color to use for the bezel around the screen. It isn't as distracting to the eye as gold is.
I have an idea to incorporate some lighting into the build. I don't want LEDs directly shinning through the side case panels where they will be distracting while viewing the iPad LCD. The only area left is the front panel so I have a plan to 3D print a front bezel that will mount behind the carbon fiber bezel. I'm going to use translucent filament and design the edges with texture that will diffuse the light. The lighting should illuminate the edges and the front Skyslots. I want to use a 30cm LED strip that will be embedded into this new panel.
First let me say how beautiful this is i can only imagine it in person thank you for this beauty and sharing it with us now onto my main question that ipad display you added is very tempting to add to my classic mini the only thing is i wouldnt know how to make a bezel so is there a way you could make one custom or do you sell them or have an idea how i could get one for an s4 mini classic
Or would you be willing to share the files for the bracket and bezel
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this is genius.. I may use this modded backplate idea in an upcoming attempt at something crazy in my S4M-C!Update: I believe I may have a solution to a brickless S4M with a Zotac 1080ti MINI and HDPlex 400W AC-DC power supply. The GPU PCIe bracket can be modified to shift the GPU 10mm closer to the PCIe slot on the motherboard. I thought that I would have to 3D print a new bracket, but the existing bracket can be slightly modified without losing it's original function and the newer 10mm offset. Check out my veteran Dremel skills.
The areas highlighted in YELLOW were either cut or drilled. This allows the top of the bracket to move closer to the top of the GPU. It's a 10mm offset that will allow the HDPlex 400W AC/DC power supply to fit between the GPU and the side panel of the S4M. The brace marked in BLUE was left to keep the bracket rigid. Unfortunately this method will make DP2 and DP3 unusable (unless you do more cutting, but I wanted to keep the structure of the bracket strong and since I only use DP1 and the HDMI port it was unnecessary). The mounting points under DP1 and DP2 will shift to the left and fall within one of the small triangle cut outs already present. The heads of the original screws will fit into the corners of the triangles and will hold the bracket securely. The DVI port will require a small washer to hold one of it's screws in place.
After the 10mm shift the top of the GPU PCB is now closer to the top of the PCIe bracket. The PCIe bracket mount "A" will require a thin plastic washer to fit between it and the PCB to prevent metal to metal contact with components. A new hole has to be cut into the GPU back plate to secure it. The PCIe bracket mount "B" will require some silicon adhesive to secure it since the GPU back plate does not cover the area, and drilling a hole through the PCB is not an option. Even without securing "B" the bracket and GPU are very secure.
Since I had to drill a hole into the back plate I decided to just repaint the GPU back plate and another M.2 heat spreader. I also decided to paint the rear motherboard bracket for the CPU socket. After the paint and clear coat is dry, then I'll put the card together with the 10mm offset and provide finished photos.
Thank you so much for sharing!
WOW! I wish i had all the hardware to do my own PSU cabling and repinning and stuff, what exactly would i need to get started? not really looking to do sleeved, just simple thin blck power cables like Josh makes.My least favorite part of a build. Custom length cables and sleeving. CPU, MOBO, and Power Switch completed. Will need to wait for S4M to make the GPU cable, and sleeve the HDPlex power supply cables.
how did tou mount those 2 fans directly onto the card? man i wonder if thats more effective than just zip-tying the fans to the heatsink? hmmThe S4M release was delayed due to a mistake made by the manufacturer. Hopefully, it will be released within the next few weeks. Another set back for this build, but there is still some work that can be done.
The S4M travel case plates have been completed and installed. It turned out better than I had hoped. This is the Praxis Kit, an in-game item, that the travel case was based upon.
I purchased a quick disconnect VESA adapter for the S4M and the monitor arm that it will be mounted to. This will give me the ability to quickly disconnect the S4M from the arm when transporting it in the travel case. The S4M exterior will be black, so I painted the adapter gold.
I never was completely happy with the look of the GPU Noctua fans mod and the shroud that I made, so I'm going to do something else. I'm going to use the original Zotac shroud and paint it, and use the Noctua fans without the fan housings.
More to come soon...
what mod would you do exactly? bend the Blackridge or shave 2mm off the standoffs on the cooler?
sadly his thread was closed and he hasnt made a new one, ive reached out and no response via DM or Discord, which is why im glad i saw the GPU bracket mod using the GPU backplate, i'll probably be doing that if i can fit my upcoming HDPLEX 400 ACDC above my 1080 mini
WOW! I wish i had all the hardware to do my own PSU cabling and repinning and stuff, what exactly would i need to get started? not really looking to do sleeved, just simple thin blck power cables like Josh makes.
how did tou mount those 2 fans directly onto the card? man i wonder if thats more effective than just zip-tying the fans to the heatsink? hmm
sadly his thread was closed and he hasnt made a new one, ive reached out and no response via DM or Discord, which is why im glad i saw the GPU bracket mod using the GPU backplate, i'll probably be doing that if i can fit my upcoming HDPLEX 400 ACDC above my 1080 mini
You really only need the tools that you see in the photos. Crimping tool for the pins, wire stripper, wire cutter, and a lighter. You can get everything you need at https://www.cable-sleeving.com/
I mounted the fans using a flexible outdoor adhesive between the Noctua fans and the heat sink.
thank you for the link, I'll have to consider getting into this, right after I'm done learning some soldering skills.
