-
Save 15% on ALL SFF Network merch, until Dec 31st! Use code SFF2024 at checkout. Click here!
(COMPLETE) SFF Inception: NFC Skyreach 4 MINI Brickless Build Log
- Thread starter seven7thirty30
- Start date
Udpate: Traveled home this past weekend. I've been busier than I want to be. I did have time to do a testing mock up of the iPad screen and the full assembly of the case. So far everything is working better than expected. I have no coil whine from the HDPlex, or the GPU (a problem that a lot of people seem to be having). I'm developing a new bezel for the iPad LCD that will be cleaner without screws to mount it to the side panel. I'm going to make it very thin and light and use some 3M double sided automotive tape to hold it in place. I also decided that black is a much better color to use for the bezel around the screen. It isn't as distracting to the eye as gold is.
I have an idea to incorporate some lighting into the build. I don't want LEDs directly shinning through the side case panels where they will be distracting while viewing the iPad LCD. The only area left is the front panel so I have a plan to 3D print a front bezel that will mount behind the carbon fiber bezel. I'm going to use translucent filament and design the edges with texture that will diffuse the light. The lighting should illuminate the edges and the front Skyslots. I want to use a 30cm LED strip that will be embedded into this new panel.
I have an idea to incorporate some lighting into the build. I don't want LEDs directly shinning through the side case panels where they will be distracting while viewing the iPad LCD. The only area left is the front panel so I have a plan to 3D print a front bezel that will mount behind the carbon fiber bezel. I'm going to use translucent filament and design the edges with texture that will diffuse the light. The lighting should illuminate the edges and the front Skyslots. I want to use a 30cm LED strip that will be embedded into this new panel.
There's an HDMI controller board shown in this post: https://smallformfactor.net/forum/t...-4-mini-brickless-build-log.10947/post-159870
Last edited:
Oh, sorry, I must have missed it. Thought I read through the entire thread.
Very interesting, and a good job on fitting everything.
Last edited:
Update: I designed and 3D printed the LED bezel, but since the thickness had to be 5mm to allow the LED strip to be embedded it makes the front panel of the build look too bulky and kills the sleek appearance. In addition, the lighting isn't going to work as well as I had hoped since the strip has to be offset to one side. It doesn't diffuse the light equally. I'm not a fan of RGB lighting anyway, and would prefer a more subtle appearance. I'm going to abandon this approach. If anything, I'd prefer to mount the LED strip internally on the CPU side so that the light shines upward and provides a golden glow behind the case when viewing the iPad LCD.
The redesigned iPad LCD bezel turned out really well, but I rushed the paint job and ruined it. I had to sand the paint off and started a new application. Update on the finished product over the weekend.
It's time to determine the placement of the armor pieces on the side panel. Since I will have to drill holes into the powder coated side panels I want to make sure that the placement is perfect. I really love the clean look without them, but if it does compliment the build then I'll use them. Otherwise, I'll mount them to the adjustable mounting arm. I also plan to 3D print these instead of using the ones made of FIMO clay. My OCD is going nuts with the thickness inconsistency between each piece. Let me know what you guys think.
The redesigned iPad LCD bezel turned out really well, but I rushed the paint job and ruined it. I had to sand the paint off and started a new application. Update on the finished product over the weekend.
It's time to determine the placement of the armor pieces on the side panel. Since I will have to drill holes into the powder coated side panels I want to make sure that the placement is perfect. I really love the clean look without them, but if it does compliment the build then I'll use them. Otherwise, I'll mount them to the adjustable mounting arm. I also plan to 3D print these instead of using the ones made of FIMO clay. My OCD is going nuts with the thickness inconsistency between each piece. Let me know what you guys think.
If you are wanting to 3d print them, maybe look into mounting them to the sky slots. Thant way you don't have to put hole in the side panel, and you can move them around.
For those of you interested in the custom modified Zotac 1080TI MINI bracket that you've seen in this build. The group from NFC's Discord channel is currently working on making another batch. You can get one here: https://smallformfactor.net/forum/threads/zotac-1080ti-mini-pci-e-bracket-mod.11409/#post-162597
Thank you so much for posting your progress on this build, I stumbled onto this thread looking for anwers to questions that I had for a very similar build I will soon be doing, and gave me even more great ideas on how to improve it! I had never even considered going brickless was possible with the 1080ti. Could you explain to me how you mounted the Noctua fans directly to the GPU?
I'm happy to hear that this build log will help you during your build. The Noctua fans were mounted with a dab (small amount that can be cut away if needed in the future for replacement) of high strength and temperature resistant outdoor adhesive.
Update: The newly printed armor tiles turned out pretty well. Much better than the FIMO clay versions. Hate it or love it, this is a theme build, and I'm pretty happy with the results so far. The settings on the 3D printer weren't optimal, and there were some defects. Instead of just discarding them I decided to keep them and embrace the look of the damaged armor pieces. It provides a battle worn look that I can appreciate.
I created a template to align the placement of each armor tile before drilling holes. Placement was key, since I don't want to impede airflow and I want to avoid coming into contact with the CPU heat sink. In addition, I wanted the internal components to still be seen. The battle worn armor tiles are subset with the perfect tiles raised above to provide a 3D textured effect.
Unfortunately, the iPad bezel (version 7) had to be repainted, again. I'm waiting for the paint to cure right now.
I'll be out of town for the weekend. During this trip I'll be setting up a time and date, sometime next week, for the finalized photos of the build.
I created a template to align the placement of each armor tile before drilling holes. Placement was key, since I don't want to impede airflow and I want to avoid coming into contact with the CPU heat sink. In addition, I wanted the internal components to still be seen. The battle worn armor tiles are subset with the perfect tiles raised above to provide a 3D textured effect.
Unfortunately, the iPad bezel (version 7) had to be repainted, again. I'm waiting for the paint to cure right now.
I'll be out of town for the weekend. During this trip I'll be setting up a time and date, sometime next week, for the finalized photos of the build.
Update: Final revision of the iPad LCD bezel
Curiosity
Too busy figuring out if I can to think if I shoul
Platinum Supporter
Bronze Supporter
M...M...M...M...Multi-Tier...Subscriber...
- Apr 30, 2016
- 724
- 838
Looking gooood
The black matches the case super well, and that fit is great!
The black matches the case super well, and that fit is great!
Thank you, sir! Now on to the custom foam cutouts in the travel case.
What riser are you using for the GPU? The one that comes with the Skyreach is kind of hard to bend.
I am looking at the same approach as you to bring the GPU closer to the motherboard by offsetting, but I am not sure about the GPU riser
Am considering getting one that is right angled like this one:
I am looking at the same approach as you to bring the GPU closer to the motherboard by offsetting, but I am not sure about the GPU riser
Am considering getting one that is right angled like this one:
The flexible riser that comes with the S4M won't work with a GPU offset. You need a 50mm or longer flexible riser cable.
Thanks a lot
Am ordering a flexible riser from Amazon then with a 180 degree adapter for the power pin
I am using a Zotac 1070 mini (that is around 1cm shorter than the 1080ti mini)
Your build log has been really helpful, thanks a lot
And I just love the screen on the side of your panel - it is awesome !!!
