Can i fit a 1050ti in my case?i MUST do it!

Staxtis

Trash Compacter
Original poster
Aug 24, 2017
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Ooooo, if it is 30mm, you can chop that fin part off. I measured about 22mm from gpu die to the edge of the fc8 case clearance. I'm unsure how watercoolers work and with fans, it'll be pain in ass to install them with little space in the case. You can use a micro 40mm fan.

Ultimately the secret and key is to put as many heatpipes originating from the GPU die.

The concept is to add another 4 heatpipes to the streacom block. The photo is my own PC and photoshopped in a way to give a visualization how to do it. Right, the other end will be hanging loose with a thermal pad and will be touching the case panel when you close it up. It should release even more heat. This way the entire lid will be absorbing heat and spreading. As heat rises, it should be very efficient as heat will just go up and disperse.

Msystems is correct, there is nothing else to do to lower the temp on my case at the heatsink on the side of the case, and I read his thread on how he is using extra flat heatpipes to disperse heat at the top and bottom of his FC8 case.
If i cut all the fin part what would be the benefit anyway?I mean i will be jsut a normal mount as streacom have for the cpu without absorving any heat the mount and send all the heat via heatpipes to the sidepanel...:?!?!?!?

You perception isnt correct as i can understand becauce the end of the heatpipes wont be on the upper side of the lid but on the upper side of the vga...it is 180degrees not 90(except if you mean to custom it as well).
Where is the msystems thread??and what do you mean about flat heatpipes?rounded-vs flat??

There is huge-nice projecting is coming guys i really enjoy the communication with all of you.!Sharing knowledge thats the point of forums:D
 

hulkster

Caliper Novice
Aug 4, 2017
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If i cut all the fin part what would be the benefit anyway?I mean i will be jsut a normal mount as streacom have for the cpu without absorving any heat the mount and send all the heat via heatpipes to the sidepanel...:?!?!?!?

You perception isnt correct as i can understand becauce the end of the heatpipes wont be on the upper side of the lid but on the upper side of the vga...it is 180degrees not 90(except if you mean to custom it as well).
Where is the msystems thread??and what do you mean about flat heatpipes?rounded-vs flat??

There is huge-nice projecting is coming guys i really enjoy the communication with all of you.!Sharing knowledge thats the point of forums:D

This is mystem's thread, check it out https://smallformfactor.net/forum/threads/msystems-m1-streacom-fc5-6-6l.2240/.

Cutting the fin part is to fit the piece in the fc8 case, you have to do it if your going to use the hdplex gpu kit. Yes, you have to send the heat through the heatpipes to the sidepanel, the fin part won't barely do anything.

Yes, the pipes will be 90 degrees if I slightly unbend them without kinking it too much. I'll look like an upside down L. There are flat heatpipes which can be bent easier and are all one piece. Not sure how they can handle heat though.

 
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msystems

King of Cable Management
Apr 28, 2017
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I have a FC5 but it's the same concept. What I found recently is that the lid panel was machined so precisely that an enormous amount of heat was being transferred to the top panel without even any TIM or direct heat transfer from a heatpipe. The lid was approaching 65-70C.

The FC8 is somewhat of an inferior of a case in that it can only dissipate heat from one side of the case, it doesn't have two sides of thick heatsink fins like the H5, FC5, or FC9 so you have to deal with a shared cpu & gpu, instead of one side for each. Still I think it could get there with some modding and fans.
 
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Staxtis

Trash Compacter
Original poster
Aug 24, 2017
34
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I have a FC5 but it's the same concept. What I found recently is that the lid panel was machined so precisely that an enormous amount of heat was being transferred to the top panel without even any TIM or direct heat transfer from a heatpipe. The lid was approaching 65-70C.

The FC8 is somewhat of an inferior of a case in that it can only dissipate heat from one side of the case, it doesn't have two sides of thick heatsink fins like the H5, FC5, or FC9 so you have to deal with a shared cpu & gpu, instead of one side for each. Still I think it could get there with some modding and fans.

That was(still is) my main problem...Streacom also told me that maximum is 95 watt...In my case wattage will be (51+75=126(on full maximum load)) so i am approx 30watt more...It is really big and you think that i do it with 1-2 fans on the case?If yes i think i must try it...
something extra that i thought is... What if buy the HT4 riser but it on the gpu as @hulkster said keep it 180degrees and put some aluminum piece or copper piece (20-40mm thick and and big as possible something like 60X150 in order to also absorb the heat...I can also make it with fins of anything if that helps more...And i can put a fun on the upperd side of the lid about cpu and close to the piece of metal that i will put in order to pull-release the heat outside..
is that a good idea or a stupid one?:/?
 

hulkster

Caliper Novice
Aug 4, 2017
22
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That was(still is) my main problem...Streacom also told me that maximum is 95 watt...In my case wattage will be (51+75=126(on full maximum load)) so i am approx 30watt more...It is really big and you think that i do it with 1-2 fans on the case?If yes i think i must try it...
something extra that i thought is... What if buy the HT4 riser but it on the gpu as @hulkster said keep it 180degrees and put some aluminum piece or copper piece (20-40mm thick and and big as possible something like 60X150 in order to also absorb the heat...I can also make it with fins of anything if that helps more...And i can put a fun on the upperd side of the lid about cpu and close to the piece of metal that i will put in order to pull-release the heat outside..
is that a good idea or a stupid one?:/?

My lid doesn't get as close as hot as the side fins. I went ahead and bought 4 200mm heatpipes from china to test these out. If it works out, great....if it doesn't then I wont have to dish out $50 and damaging the HT4 set in the process.

I also though of adding some huge heatsinks on the top of the case. If you can create something that large and then mounting it with some thermal pads, it might even work for you. You know what would be a cool... adding the biggest cpu heatsink you can find and putting a small fan for it....lastly using the ENTIRE side heatsink for the GPU. Or maybe using the HT4 riser for the lid of the case instead if it reaches the ceiling of the case by modifying it.
 

Staxtis

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Original poster
Aug 24, 2017
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msystems

King of Cable Management
Apr 28, 2017
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It's hard to speculate what that is going to do for you. Probably won't do much because the effective thermal resistance of that whole contraption will be too high to help much
 

hulkster

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Aug 4, 2017
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You didnt answer to my question though..:/ Am thinking of putting some heatpipes on the side panel + HT4 riser with 180deg as it is and put a 60X150 piece of aluminum in order to absorb the heat..with or without fins...Is this going to help? is it a good idea?can i buy an aluminum heatsink something like that..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/60x150x25mm-High-Quality-Aluminum-Heat-Sink-for-LED-and-Power-IC-Transistor/222259053310?_trkparms=aid=555018&algo=PL.SIM&ao=2&asc=46086&meid=0f177a71ab144ac4a9a84eca38470704&pid=100005&rk=3&rkt=6&mehot=lo&sd=122445133345&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

and mount this on the HT4 riser above my gpu..
@hulkster @msystems

It's just as msystems suggests, it is hard to know if it will make a difference using the riser for the lid. I can let you know in two weeks when my heatpipes comes from China and will see if it brings my 47 degrees temperature down. That HT4 riser 180deg as is, looks to be about 32mm on the description. Not sure if it will fit as is because the clearance is about 22mm. I think if you get 4X of the 60X150 heatsinks and attachment them to the side panel, it might even work.
 

Staxtis

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Original poster
Aug 24, 2017
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i DONT want to use the HT4 rise for the lid...I said that i want to use it as follow...
I will make is as you did on this post of you..... but i wont have 90deg as you said in order to spread the heat on the lid but actually i will put a heatsink as big as possible above the gpu(like SLI) like this one...https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1m.Bx...diator-cooling-for-electronic-CPU-GPU-RAM.jpg
and not down from the cpu where i am limited to 22mmthick...and it will be like i am having 2gpu(sli) ...The heatsink will be above the gpu and down from the cpu...And on the upper side of the lid(of the cpu) i will put a fan in order to pull the air both from cpu block and the gpus heatsink...So i will have 2 mounts on the gpu...4 heatpipes to the side panel and 4 heatpipes to the custom heatsink with riser...Exactly as the picture bellow but the only difference will be that i wont spread the heat on the lid with the riser but on another interior custom heatsink.


I think that this might be the best possible way because it will be like i am having 2 side panels but the 1 will be inside the case and because i want to avoid the thermal heat inside i will put the fun between the heatsink and the cpu up on the lid to pull the heat air.!

@hulkster @msystems
 

Staxtis

Trash Compacter
Original poster
Aug 24, 2017
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Gotcha. I see what you want to do. You want to see the other side of the gpu. The heatsink has to be biggest one you can find in diameter and longest fins. You can try to add this on the back of the case where the vent holes are to expel the heat. You can mount it with some screws and cable ties, or whatever. https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41IWiS2G2yL.jpg
yeah i know it must be the biggest one that can be fit in there...What is the special thing about the heatsink because i am thinking of if i made it my self in order to EXACT on the dimensions for take full advantage of the heatsink size...It is only have to be an aluminum piece?distance between fins?what kind of aluminum?Copper would be better?Or the heatsink must be aluminum and only the pipes and mount must be copper in order to "accept" the heat?
That fan seems to be really nice for that project:D I wont even drill the lid with that:D

would you think that this is going to work?
@msystems whats your opinion?
Thank you both of you mates!
 

hulkster

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Aug 4, 2017
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yeah i know it must be the biggest one that can be fit in there...What is the special thing about the heatsink because i am thinking of if i made it my self in order to EXACT on the dimensions for take full advantage of the heatsink size...It is only have to be an aluminum piece?distance between fins?what kind of aluminum?Copper would be better?Or the heatsink must be aluminum and only the pipes and mount must be copper in order to "accept" the heat?
That fan seems to be really nice for that project:D I wont even drill the lid with that:D

would you think that this is going to work?
@msystems whats your opinion?
Thank you both of you mates!

That's great if you have access to material and make your own. I would got for copper if you can because I heard copper is the best of the best. If you check out the fins on the passive GT 1030 models, you can see the card takes up two slots because the fins are extra long. I think the fins should be the longest you can make/get as long as it doesn't interfere with the cpu or memory slots. Yeah, that's why the fan looks perfect, you don't have to tamper and modify the case. It should sit nicely behind the dvd drive on the top, mount it on the metal bracket thing.
 
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msystems

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Apr 28, 2017
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Unless you have some real direct airflow, go with a heatsink with loosely spaced fins designed for passive cooling
 
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Staxtis

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Aug 24, 2017
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So...I found this company at it look pretty solid idea of what they do...I send them an email and i will see how they will respond to me...
Check also about the Vapor Chambers...Probably i will make it with Vapor Chamber on the base and to transfer the heat to the copper because the surface of the copper will be 150X60 and the surface of the gpu heat will me 25X25 or even smaller
http://www.myheatsinks.com/heat-pipe-solutions/vapor-chambers/
 
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Staxtis

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Original poster
Aug 24, 2017
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So the company "myheatsinks" doesnt manufacture for retailers and only for other companies...So i cant find a solution with em...
Does any of you have the knowledge in order to guide me to build a copper sink?I found a solid piece of copper 200X50X50 for 45euro and i am thinking of buying it and cut it with my cnc(engraving)
I decide to make it with rounded fins because i saw that rounded fins are better than the flat one....(if someone else claims the opposite i am all ears:D)
But i have to know the spaces between them,,,their max height,diameter of each on, etc etc etc...I just dont know the basic principal of the heatsink in order to make it as good as possible...
Any of you have knowledge like this?
@msystems
@hulkster
@aquelito
@robbee
@Biowarejak


Thank you very much!
 
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Biowarejak

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Mar 6, 2017
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So the company "myheatsinks" doesnt manufacture for retailers and only for other companies...So i cant find a solution with em...
Does any of you have the knowledge in order to guide me to build a copper sink?I found a solid piece of copper 200X50X50 for 45euro and i am thinking of buying it and cut it with my cnc(engraving)
I decide to make it with rounded fins because i saw that rounded fins are better than the flat one....(if someone else claims the opposite i am all ears:D)
But i have to know the spaces between them,,,their max height,diameter of each on, etc etc etc...I just dont know the basic principal of the heatsink in order to make it as good as possible...
Any of you have knowledge like this?
@msystems
@hulkster
@aquelito
@robbee
@Biowarejak


Thank you very much!
More surface area equals better heat dissipation :) more fins, the better. But that's offset by how the air needs to be moved through the system. If it's passive, it's often better that they be less close together, so that air moves more freely by convection. Now I'm not certain with regard to fin shape, but I've heard that a longer period of contact with the air is less beneficial, due to the heat equalizing between the fin and air.
 

hulkster

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Aug 4, 2017
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I feel the reason the streacom heatsink is on the outside is because it will get very hot inside that case and with little to no air circulation. I think you need the longest fins possible, yet durable and won't break easily. Get something that is low profile, can reach up the cpu area, and won't hit the memory slots and motherboard ports.

Check these posts to help with some ideas:

http://www.silentpcreview.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=67140&start=120
https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/threads/gtx-750-ti.18590027/
https://smallformfactor.net/forum/threads/project-o-mostly-without-h.665/
 
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hulkster

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Aug 4, 2017
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Update:

I'm always am trying to improve and evolve, so I wish to share of my findings. I call this case the FC8 Ultra now!! HAHAH!!! This might be of interest for @Staxtis if you're still interested.

I have added a double streacom gpu mount
An extra set of 180mm 4 heatpipes, and a 2mm heatpad for the top panel
and a 5mm heatpad for the side of the top panel

I am shocked the heat dissipation has increased phenomenally and my temps are stable 42c on idle, and 63 on load! At this range, I might even try a gtx 1050 once a single slot, low profile card ever comes out. I think this is helpful for all streacom owners.