Can i fit a 1050ti in my case?i MUST do it!

[jtd871]

To clarify my earlier comment, the vent holes appear to be on the large face of the shroud - NOT the PCIe I/O plate. I would expect that these holes would keep the exhaust hot air inside the case - unless you position the intake and exhaust near the vents, cut additional vents or swapped the cooler out for a heatpipe-based passive solution.

 

[Staxtis]

To clarify my earlier comment, the vent holes appear to be on the large face of the shroud - NOT the PCIe I/O plate. I would expect that these holes would keep the exhaust hot air inside the case - unless you position the intake and exhaust near the vents, cut additional vents or swapped the cooler out for a heatpipe-based passive solution.

So you believe that because of the grid-holes are not close to the heatpipes+pci slot and they are on :the side" will prevent the warm air to go out...Am i right?So that means you think that i cant run it without a fan and i must put a fan.?
1 solution is to put a fan as exhaust or intake under the holes-vent-grid(whatever it is)cut the case in order to make some extra space for the intake-exhaus-fan..Or do you mean just to cut it without an extra fan just a cut for vents-grid-holes for some extra "breathing" of the case?
2.By the swapping of the cooler i dont get it...?Did i make yoy believe that i will go for a non passive solution with a stock fan cooler?:/??
If i did that it is my mistake.

I believed that we already talking for a passive solution and we overcome the solution of the stock fan coolers from the time that the @hulkster give me-us this solution..I am not considering to keep the stock fans cooler...I cant do it anyway EXCEPT if i pick the ASL but i would prefer not to for 2 reasons..1st:No reviews for this brand..2:hard to buy+warranty 3:It is with fans and i would prefer keep it fanless if that is possible... My thoughts and my wish-willing is to pick one of the following(would you choose one of those or both are the same?:/)
https://www.msi.com/Graphics-card/GeForce-GTX-1050-Ti-4GT-LP/Gallery
or
https://www.gigabyte.com/Graphics-Card/GV-N105TOC-4GL#kf

remove the dvi port in order to make to it make it single slot and use the passive solution that hulster show us...
But i am considering that if the passive cooling is not enough for this card+cpu if there are ANY tips that will make my passive cooling be more efficient and make it a bit cooler (there might be somehow a tip that make the passive colling acting a bit better maybe thereisnt)Otherwise if there isnt ANY way to do something that will make the passive cooling more efficient(and ofc if i have to decrease the temp because of the high values).I can put a fan ounder the passive bracket(on my side plate) in order to give some air on the bracket OR i can invert the fan and "pull" some air from the bracket (ofc i will make some hole on the plate for the fan in order to take or give away the air)...Additionaly i can also make some holes(a grid with 10-20-30 1mm holes) on the passive bracket in order to send some air to the kernel-core where the heat produced and where the heatpipes and therma paste are..


Do you understand me?i hope you will..!

Thank you mate!

PS: @aquelito take a look on or post if you dont mind and have some time..Your thoughts+opinion would be really helpfull as well.!


CHEERS!!!

 

[Biowarejak]

So you believe that because of the grid-holes are not close to the heatpipes+pci slot and they are on :the side" will prevent the warm air to go out...Am i right?So that means you think that i cant run it without a fan and i must put a fan.?
1 solution is to put a fan as exhaust or intake under the holes-vent-grid(whatever it is)cut the case in order to make some extra space for the intake-exhaus-fan..Or do you mean just to cut it without an extra fan just a cut for vents-grid-holes for some extra "breathing" of the case?
2.By the swapping of the cooler i dont get it...?Did i make yoy believe that i will go for a non passive solution with a stock fan cooler?:/??
If i did that it is my mistake.

No. No. He's saying that the GPU will vent INTO the case. The exhaust is on the gpu shroud, not the PCIe Bracket.

 

[hulkster]

@hulkster thats look PRETTY DAMN HOT!!!
I think you just find me a solution..!!!
Being honest o thought to transfer it like this but i forget it in a sec because i didnt thought to transfer the 2rightside heatpipes fro cpu towards to left side so i had no mount to put the heatpipes from cpu...
What about your temperatures?
Anyonealso got anyidea to improve it wiht some extra tips?like adding some other materials on it or a specific thermal paste??
So mate you use 2Xmh1 and 2xsh2 for the cpu and the custom one for the gpu that is right?
I really cant remember know the heatpipes that i have..I remember that i bought some other to fit better in my system..
I have the Ashrock Z270 fatality gaming fro motherboard...Would you think i would need exact the same heatpipes with you right?


@aquelito and @Biowarejak what do you think acording the temps for a 1050ti??would it be nice if the heatpipes cover the hole block and maybesome extra tips with thermal oranything else in order to improve it will it be ok without temp issues???

will i be ok with that specs according the 160nano psu and the 1050ti??
Case: Streacom FC8 Alpha
CPU: i3 7100
Mobo: Asrock fatal1ty z270 gaming-itx/ac
Ram: Corsair LPX 8GB Class 14 2400
SSD:Samsung 960 Evo M.2
PSU:Nano 160



Thank you THANK YOU!!!

PS:Something that i also thought is that i can might make some small holes(1mm) about 20 on the extra cpu block and adjust a small-thin-silent fan in order to send some air inside (jsut a bit) but i dont know if i will damage the passive cooling method and the heat will not go out to the heatpipes proper and send the heat out from the holes or something.:/
PS2:Will the cpu bracket fit al well in any 1050ti?Because i will have to do some custom job on the cpu in order to remove the 1 slot from msi OR gigabyte

Hey. My temperatures used to be 52 degrees for the gpu on regular use and 82 while gaming. Idk what I did but after cleaning and then using 3grams of the mx4 paste I got it down to 47 degrees and 77 degrees. I don't know too lower it because I got four heat pipes and they should transfer up to 100w at least. I think the Fc8 case can handle 65w total and I'm sharing it with the 35w cpu and 30w gpu. I even added aluminum heatsink with thermal pads to help.

 

[Staxtis]

No. No. He's saying that the GPU will vent INTO the case. The exhaust is on the gpu shroud, not the PCIe Bracket.

Yes...The stock gpu got fans that "vent-throw" the air IN the case and the shroudh is the exhaust of the gpu...When i was telling about bracket i was talking about gpu BLOCK bracket...that aluminium bracket that mount on the chipset of the gpu chipset with thermal paste in order to cool it..

aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa i am so pissed of because it is also hard to explain with words and language is not my native one.:////

Hey. My temperatures used to be 52 degrees for the gpu on regular use and 82 while gaming. Idk what I did but after cleaning and then using 3grams of the mx4 paste I got it down to 47 degrees and 77 degrees. I don't know too lower it because I got four heat pipes and they should transfer up to 100w at least. I think the Fc8 case can handle 65w total and I'm sharing it with the 35w cpu and 30w gpu. I even added aluminum heatsink with thermal pads to help.

65w total??if that is correct i cant do it...You just cut my wings off..(i hope streacom will give me the green light(i emailed them))
my cpu 7100 i3 is 51W and the gpu according some reviews in full load 4k and MAX MAX MAX is 74.8w

 

[hulkster]

@Staxtis
Sorry, the correction is the fc8 evo/alpha can handle up to 95W, but the recommended is 65W.
Streacom didn't think to put some vent holes on the left side of the case for the fan to blow out air.
You should get a T series i7 cpu if you can find one. They are only 35W. You can undervolt the 1050 bios if one is available.

@Staxtis
"I have the Ashrock Z270 fatality gaming fro motherboard...Would you think i would need exact the same heatpipes with you right?"

Your motherboard cpu slot is aligned exactly as mines, i have the asrock z97e-itx. Your cpu slot is about 2cm farther away from the wall. The stock heatpipes that came with the case are still too steep for our motherboards. The sh2 will fit perfectly on your motherboard, mines stick out a bit. The mh1 will be about 1cm or so short at the cpu block but will fit.

 

[Staxtis]

@Staxtis
Sorry, the correction is the fc8 evo/alpha can handle up to 95W, but the recommended is 65W.
Streacom didn't think to put some vent holes on the left side of the case for the fan to blow out air.
You should get a T series i7 cpu if you can find one. They are only 35W. You can undervolt the 1050 bios if one is available.
Are you sure for the 95w?Where did you find that?
It is too easy for me to make some holes for a fan because i own a CNC machine so that wont be a problem for me...however if i put a fan do you think that the side plate would be "handle" the 120-130w?I really dont want to pay for another cpu..I said that my HTPC will cost 450-500 and i did it with over 700 and now i will give another 300for the gpu+cooling and POSSIBLY +100 for another psu (if the 160 is not enough)So i will have to go above 1000 in total and possible more than 1100:/ and 3 meters righ there is my desk with another mid case powerfull pc....:/
I also think that streacom did that in purpose since it is fanless case mateThey could put some better-thicker sideplate though.

@Staxtis
"I have the Ashrock Z270 fatality gaming fro motherboard...Would you think i would need exact the same heatpipes with you right?"

Your motherboard cpu slot is aligned exactly as mines, i have the asrock z97e-itx. Your cpu slot is about 2cm farther away from the wall. The stock heatpipes that came with the case are still too steep for our motherboards. The sh2 will fit perfectly on your motherboard, mines stick out a bit. The mh1 will be about 1cm or so short at the cpu block but will fit.

I bought the MH1 Mini heatpipes with the suggestion of streacom so my pc is with mh1 anyway i will only have to buy the buy the SH2.
There are couple of diffs in the Alpha Versions thats why the SH2 in the website dont say they fit on FC8 because they doesnt fit(according streacom..SH2 fit only on Alpha and not on Evo..I got Alpha so o am ok anyway)

 

[msystems]

Hulksters mod should work for you, but that won't be enough. I would add a gpu backplate from the accelero s3, if it can fit, and throw some fans in there somewhere to make it work. Might be alot of modding to get enough ventilation.

CPU should be undervolted to lower temps as well since it is sharing the cooling.

 

[hulkster]

Staxtis: Your right, the SH2 are only for the alphas because they have two rows of mounting holes and the EVO models have only 1 set and they are on the upper level. The only pain in ass problem is getting all the extra parts. The manager at Streacom, Ahmet, is the one who can provide the spare parts. Very nice and extremely helpful guy.

Msystems is correct, to cool that 1050, my mod wont be enough unless you do not game at all. If my 1030 GT idles at up to 50, I can imagine it would idle in the 60's passively. As a crazy thought, you can even try to reroute some of the heatpipes to the back on the case where the vent holes are above the motherboard plate? I would try to modify a HT4 riser and extend the heatpipes through the sides of the CDROM plate?

This is the additional aluminium heatsinks I added, it only helped 1-2 degrees at most though.

 

[Staxtis]

Hulksters mod should work for you, but that won't be enough. I would add a gpu backplate from the accelero s3, if it can fit, and throw some fans in there somewhere to make it work. Might be alot of modding to get enough ventilation.

CPU should be undervolted to lower temps as well since it is sharing the cooling.

By saying @hulkster ster i believe you were talking about me @msystems
S3 cant fit in my case because it is 43mm thick....So this cannot be happen.I need something smaller thats why i said that migh be the only solution...By backplate do you mean this one?https://www.arctic.ac/eu_en/backside-plate.html
Yes if it would fit might be good but..DONT!Its 98mm so that cant go inside!I dont care about the mod i care about the efficiency.
There is no need to put a 1050ti if i have to udervolt the cpu and the gpu..The point is to have the maximum of the vga in order to enjoy some games..Otherwise i would choose another gpu like 730 that i can find already with withpassive and without any mod.

Staxtis: Your right, the SH2 are only for the alphas because they have two rows of mounting holes and the EVO models have only 1 set and they are on the upper level. The only pain in ass problem is getting all the extra parts. The manager at Streacom, Ahmet, is the one who can provide the spare parts. Very nice and extremely helpful guy.

Msystems is correct, to cool that 1050, my mod wont be enough unless you do not game at all. If my 1030 GT idles at up to 50, I can imagine it would idle in the 60's passively. As a crazy thought, you can even try to reroute some of the heatpipes to the back on the case where the vent holes are above the motherboard plate? I would try to modify a HT4 riser and extend the heatpipes through the sides of the CDROM plate?

This is the additional aluminium heatsinks I added, it only helped 1-2 degrees at most though.

Hmmm..Actually i think that is not possible as well..How would i do that?If i had to do that should be like that...this wont be better for sure...What i might earn i also might lose it cause of the curves and closer to cpu as well..!HT4 would be a slolution as well but the front plate?are you sure this can work out?I mean this doesnt have the (thick) for a sink..I dont know...:/

According the extra heatsink you put...would you think if you had put a bigger one would it help?from where did you get the extra heatsink?

I am also think of the gpu heatsink from HDPLEX but i am not sure what the difference would be since i started searching for it right now..

Hdplex heatsink seems to be a lot better solution according the temp as i can see.....What do you think..The hey a kind of heatsink on the block that mounts the gpu chipset

 

[hulkster]

I think the issue is the size of the aluminum cpu plywood piece. If it was double the thickness and bigger, I think it would transfer heat much better. Adding 8 heatpipes like the HDplex systems is ideal. It a shame HDPlex cases are wide and huge....thats why I got the FC8. I don't want no dvd player looking thing that can't fit on certain shelves. Even if you buy that hdplex gpu kit, the heatpipes wont be long enough so thats a waste of money. Streacom should've made a FC8 with both sides as a heatsink and the top compartment with concealed screws off to install stuff...

The extra heatsink I got off ebay from China. They were like $1.00 or something shipped. It doesn't really help, It only shaves off 1 degree the most.

If your not a hardcore gamer, the 1030 works great on low settings. Don't get the 730, its high watts and actually expensive. Bottom line, is getting a aluminum block with more than 4 heatpipe slots and then go on from there. I think alibaba has asian engineers who sell them custom made.

 

[Staxtis]

I am thinking of to buy the hdplex gpu kit and buy some 8mm heatpipes as you did from ebay or something and custom made them as you did..i only need the bracket-heatsink mount of the hdplex...you bought the cpu mount from streacom and you did custom work after that...i am thinking of buy the hdplex mount gpu and make it custom...isnt that possible?:/???

 

[hulkster]

I am thinking of to buy the hdplex gpu kit and buy some 8mm heatpipes as you did from ebay or something and custom made them as you did..i only need the bracket-heatsink mount of the hdplex...you bought the cpu mount from streacom and you did custom work after that...i am thinking of buy the hdplex mount gpu and make it custom...isnt that possible?:/???

Yes, you definitely need the gpu kit, the hdplex one would be the easiest. It's almost possible....the only problem is you need the wall heatblocks to screw them in. Also they need to have grooves in them and they need to be round to accommodate the pipes. This site has the flat blocks for $3 a piece... http://www.shop.perfecthometheater.com/Parts-and-accessories_c93.htm

You need the heatblocks from the LH6 kit for the DB4. The holes might line up on the fc8 alpha case but need to make sure.

.

 

[Staxtis]

Yes, you definitely need the gpu kit, the hdplex one would be the easiest. It's almost possible....the only problem is you need the wall heatblocks to screw them in. Also they need to have grooves in them and they need to be round to accommodate the pipes. This site has the flat blocks for $3 a piece... http://www.shop.perfecthometheater.com/Parts-and-accessories_c93.htm

You need the heatblocks from the LH6 kit for the DB4. The holes might line up on the fc8 alpha case but need to make sure.

So the only problem is to mount the heatpipes on the sidepanel of the FC8??If yes i dont need anything i have 2 cnc machine on my factory taht would be the easiest part i will do 2-4 mounts within 5-10 minutes..
Yould you think that the gpu kit-heatsink of hdplex will have a lot better heat efficiency?For example if i try it with the mount of steacom cpu as you did and thes mount the hdplex what would be the difference in temp? 5?10?20?30 celsius?i want to understand if i will be ok with my system without underclock anything....Would you think that i can manage to have "safe" gameplay with i3 7100 and 1050ti on my fc8 alpha with the hdplex gpu kit?:/

 

[msystems]

The gpu mounting block has an aluminum heatsink part that sticks out, the whole thing is probably around 40mm so that might want to check if it will cause a clearance problem



The thermal resistance of that copper block is certainly better than the aluminum one, but the limiting factor will still be the thermal capacity of the case. You can't magically fix it without adding a fan or undervolting. That's a75w gpu and combined with the 51w cpu it exceeds the design limits by at least 25w.

 

[Staxtis]

The gpu mounting block has an aluminum heatsink part that sticks out, the whole thing is probably around 40mm so that might want to check if it will cause a clearance problem



The thermal resistance of that copper block is certainly better than the aluminum one, but the limiting factor will still be the thermal capacity of the case. You can't magically fix it without adding a fan or undervolting. That's a75w gpu and combined with the 51w cpu it exceeds the design limits by at least 25w.

I have the dimensions from the gpu kit..They are 2 parts..The botton(sticks on the gpu with half heatpipes) and the top that is the heatsink and half of the heatpipes..The upper body is 20mm(including heatsink) so that wont be a problem for the limited space i have.

Are we sure that the limits are 95-100w? I send 3 e-mails to streacom some days ago(2 and 5)and i still dont have any reply..(i used to contact with shimon and i also tried to contact with Ahmet but i send it on the same email adress..i only got one)..
If the limit is 100w for example i am hoping that the heatsink on the hdplex mount will "have-take" some of the power of the gpu's heat so the heatpipes from the gpu will not "deliver" all the 75w heat because of it and will "deliver" les to the side panel...and if this is true i might have 51w+ 50-60 for example..(if the hdplex heatsink can absorve 10-20w of the power-heat
Besides that i can put a single fan somehow just to throw or pull air!!!..But besides the fan issue problem(that i would prefer to avoid it but i dont mind to have one if this is a solution)if the sidepanel cant afford the 51+75 not even the 51+50-60(if the hdplex gpu kit absorve 10-20w of the heat-power) then i have a problem that is unsolved without undervolting..and if i have to undervolt i will have to do it for 30%approx in order to be within limits 51+50...But 30% undervolting mean 30% less gpu performance..:/
I just hope to make this project without undervolting with hdplex and MAYBE with 1 fan...Would you think that this would be possible?

 

[msystems]

You can undervolt both by 10% before losing performance (+ or -, depends on your chip) and after that you should be undervolting and underclocking the CPU first and optionally disabling cores before you touch the GPU for best gaming performance. A fan will do a lot, I think. See how it goes and you can add fans later.

 

[hulkster]

40mm would be way too big, the max is 21mm before the case lid wont be able to close. Unless you chop off the heatsink on the aluminum piece. The EVO cpu block is 7mm total, the Alpha cpu block is 10mm total. I am using the EVO one. About mentioning the riser kit, you actually gave me an concept for additional cooling and it might even work. I assume the case is rated for up to 95W of cpu heat. I do not know if gpu heat is similar though.

I can tell you my heatpipes aren't that hot towards the heatsink on the case. They are hotter near the gpu. Adding a small fan to exhaust the hot air will be good. With my lid open, temps from the gpu drop from 47 to 42 steady. Maybe a fan will drop it to 10 degrees because its active cooling?

I know it is not relevant, but here is a photo of something else to further cool a card with an additional 4 heatpipes from the HT4 riser, unbend only 4 from either side, and then adding thermal pads using the lid to act as a heatsink? Total, the depth would be 7mm plus 5mm, and might still have room to leave the generic heatsink which is 10mm, making total of 22mm. The clearance will fit without touching the cdrom.

 

[Staxtis]

You can undervolt both by 10% before losing performance (+ or -, depends on your chip) and after that you should be undervolting and underclocking the CPU first and optionally disabling cores before you touch the GPU for best gaming performance. A fan will do a lot, I think. See how it goes and you can add fans later.

So I guess i will try this

40mm would be way too big, the max is 21mm before the case lid wont be able to close. Unless you chop off the heatsink on the aluminum piece. The EVO cpu block is 7mm total, the Alpha cpu block is 10mm total. I am using the EVO one. About mentioning the riser kit, you actually gave me an concept for additional cooling and it might even work. I assume the case is rated for up to 95W of cpu heat. I do not know if gpu heat is similar though.

I can tell you my heatpipes aren't that hot towards the heatsink on the case. They are hotter near the gpu. Adding a small fan to exhaust the hot air will be good. With my lid open, temps from the gpu drop from 47 to 42 steady. Maybe a fan will drop it to 10 degrees because its active cooling?

I know it is not relevant, but here is a photo of something else to further cool a card with an additional 4 heatpipes from the HT4 riser, unbend only 4 from either side, and then adding thermal pads using the lid to act as a heatsink? Total, the depth would be 7mm plus 5mm, and might still have room to leave the generic heatsink which is 10mm, making total of 22mm. The clearance will fit without touching the cdrom.

It is not 20+20..it is 20(top)+10(bottom gpu mount).I measure that the space is 28mm as i can remeber...what if i chop 2-3mm of the aluminum heatsink and make it as small as possible in order to fit but "big enough" in order to make some "work"and give some extra performance for cooling?That could work?
What is this concept you are thinking of?
Where did you find that picture?If you put the riser...1 end of the 4 heatpipes is mounted on the gpu in order to "accept" the heat...but the otherside shouldnt be also mounted somewhere else in order to release the heat?I dont understand why this ht4 riser help somehow...?I really try to figure out why he did that and how it can even help...can you light me up please?

The problem is that a wanted is to mount a 1050ti with bestway possible and with less money possible and now the only thing that i am thinking is the project and the searching design not the money or the mount..axxaxaaa

!!!!PS!!!:Something i just know thought and migh be this is what the guy with the ht4riser did...Maybe you just put a piece of aluminum (in order to absorb the heat like the side panel) form the other side of the gpu(upper) closer to cpu where is is also some free space?IF this is not what he did...maybe is there anything like backplate that watercoolers have in order to take advandage of the free space from the upper side of the gpu?

 

[hulkster]

So I guess i will try this



It is not 20+20..it is 20(top)+10(bottom gpu mount).I measure that the space is 28mm as i can remeber...what if i chop 2-3mm of the aluminum heatsink and make it as small as possible in order to fit but "big enough" in order to make some "work"and give some extra performance for cooling?That could work?
What is this concept you are thinking of?
Where did you find that picture?If you put the riser...1 end of the 4 heatpipes is mounted on the gpu in order to "accept" the heat...but the otherside shouldnt be also mounted somewhere else in order to release the heat?I dont understand why this ht4 riser help somehow...?I really try to figure out why he did that and how it can even help...can you light me up please?

The problem is that a wanted is to mount a 1050ti with bestway possible and with less money possible and now the only thing that i am thinking is the project and the searching design not the money or the mount..axxaxaaa

!!!!PS!!!:Something i just know thought and migh be this is what the guy with the ht4riser did...Maybe you just put a piece of aluminum (in order to absorb the heat like the side panel) form the other side of the gpu(upper) closer to cpu where is is also some free space?IF this is not what he did...maybe is there anything like backplate that watercoolers have in order to take advandage of the free space from the upper side of the gpu?

Ooooo, if it is 30mm, you can chop that fin part off. I measured about 22mm from gpu die to the edge of the fc8 case clearance. I'm unsure how watercoolers work and with fans, it'll be pain in ass to install them with little space in the case. You can use a micro 40mm fan.

Ultimately the secret and key is to put as many heatpipes originating from the GPU die.

The concept is to add another 4 heatpipes to the streacom block. The photo is my own PC and photoshopped in a way to give a visualization how to do it. Right, the other end will be hanging loose with a thermal pad and will be touching the case panel when you close it up. It should release even more heat. This way the entire lid will be absorbing heat and spreading. As heat rises, it should be very efficient as heat will just go up and disperse.

Msystems is correct, there is nothing else to do to lower the temp on my case at the heatsink on the side of the case, and I read his thread on how he is using extra flat heatpipes to disperse heat at the top and bottom of his FC8 case.