Time to throw in some wires!
The nasty bit first: AC. With the decision taken to use a grounded circuit (melting cables may be a realistic scenario with two PSUs packed inside- I’d strongly recommend that for any brickless build), it may also be nice to maintain the EMI filter that comes with the HDPLEX supposing it’s there for a reason!
Now, fitting that to the C6 connector will not be precisely straightforward...
Step one is taking it apart.
Removing it first requires to depress the two plastic hooks at the side of the plastic C14 connector and squeezing in a small screw driver or similar between connector and metal casing to slide it off the hooks and put it under tension, and then to unsolder the ground pin from the metal casing for it to come off:
Looking at the case it should of fit EXACTLY in the remaining gap between GPU and case!
Now that will still require cutting back the mounting wings to fit:
Hypothesis is to secure the enclosure against the connector using the soldered ground pin and the “half” screw hole remaining not the C6 connector - somewhat like this:
...and that’s a pretty tight squeeze. Turns out the chassis screw fixing the left face plate protrudes by a mill and needs cutting back...
...as well as the up stand on the left side of the connector - every mill counts:
Next: Removing that ugly C14 connector.
After a bit of unsoldering, we get to something like this (and don’t try this without helping hands!)
Note the metal strip at the bottom: it connects to the plugs ground pin and is the “frame” of the assembly. Soldering pin on the “new” C6 plug is different so it needs some Dremeling / cutting to interlock neatly- make sure it fits well before soldering it back together- getting this wrong will mean the assembly will get too long to fit into the enclosure (a little bending to the ground strip might be required, too)
Further I twisted the Neutal and Live Pins by 90 degrees using tongues to better fit with the components behind. Result is this, having exactly the same length as the original assembly:
Testing it for potential shorts- all looking good!
Last step before assemblying is replacing the plastic insulator- required a little trimming to the internal pin under the connector.
Looks about right!
Now I need to shorten the cables to connect to the HDPLEX- and DAMN, I forgot ordering Molex pins - so cutting and re-soldering will need to do.
Next is soldering in the connection to the MeanWell PSU.
Some loose fit routing to establish the length- make sure to always leave a few extra CM on both ends as magically cables become shorter when sleeving and routing them properly...
Soldering in the cables for the MeanWell at the connector (strongly recommend crimping them instead- had to be cheap on pins unfortunately)
Finished power connector with fork
DC routing from plug (top left) to HDPLEX (white connector)...
...to MeanWell, using the remaining channel between HDPLEX and chassis on the underside (NB that this was the reason to align the HDPLEX to the upper side of the chassis rather than cantering it)
...getting the feed to the AC side of the Meanwell on the other side of the chassis.
Original plan was to use ring terminals to connect the wires; it turns out though that they are too long and would have the cables projecting out into the chassis- so they get screwed in directly from the PSU side as show above. Key is maintaining enough clearance to fit the protective plastic cover on top of the AC terminals.
After a little trimming, the terminal looks reasonably safe.
Now comes the fun bit: Hooking it up to power for the first time.
Whilst speaking of safety, I triple checked every part of the assembly for ground conductivity and potential shorts using a multimeter and stayed well clear before taking a few measurements to ensure the case is free from any contact- don’t try this without the right measuring equipment!
So far, so good: 248(!)V at the MeanWell’s Land side...
12.12V on the other end...
...and 19.31V from the HDPLEX- seems the AC bit would be sorted!
Some final tidying up, putting everything together (thanks
@Kmpkt for the tip to remove the side panels- making life much easier!)
...and yes, that Molex connector for the HDPLEX
really wants to be black!
Next up: Low voltage cabling!