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Motherboard ASRock X370 Gaming-ITX/ac and AB350 Gaming-ITX/ac
- Thread starter PlayfulPhoenix
- Start date
The bugs are hardware flaws, but they can be fixed with forced security via the firmware I believe. Thats the "ware" that communicates the hardware to the software. In this firmware they can apply forced randomization or periodical deletion of certain information, so the bug is virtually inapplicable.
Detailed explanation:
IIRC the bug tricks the processor into thinking that information on a certain location "x" in the cache of the processor is required and the processor gives it. By randomizing the location or periodically deleting the cache, the processor will not be able to function as quick as before. (Think of intel optane; the optane module caches certain info and in that way speeds the harddrive up, but it doesnt work the first time you boot a program, since it needs to cache it first.) This way malicious code would have to predict the randomized adresses of the information (real time) and that is virtually impossible to do.
Hi
I am currently having issue with my desktop, not sure what the problem is. Can anyone give me a hand??
When I press the power button, the machine will power ON (all fans spinning beside the PSU since it's designed to be like that), it will not post but then after 10seconds later it will power OFF (a click sound from the psu, but the psu has that tick noise since the first day i use it.) then power ON again, then power OFF every 5 seconds, in a loop.
I have to unplug the wall plug to stop the powersupply, after a few try, i am able to turn the PC ON with no issue on gaming/streaming or even putting the PC on sleep/hibernate then power back ON.
Once I restart or completely shut off the PC, it will have the same issue again, so wondering if you know what the issue is?
So far i have done the following with no luck on solving the issue.
1) Switch the psu cables back to the stock cables (i bought custom cables online so that it fits better on my ITX case)
2) Switch the wall plug cable to PSU
3) unplug the Graphics card powersupply cable
PC Spec:
Ryzen 5-1600
2x8gb G.Skill Ripjaw V DDR4 3000
Asrock Fatal1ty X370 ITX Motherboard
Crucial MX300 750gb SSD
Corsair SF600 PSU (Refurb from Newegg)
Noctua NH-N9A cooler
I suspect 2 possible issues,
1) Bad PSU or Power switch cable
2) Bad motherboard
Thanks in advance!
I am currently having issue with my desktop, not sure what the problem is. Can anyone give me a hand??
When I press the power button, the machine will power ON (all fans spinning beside the PSU since it's designed to be like that), it will not post but then after 10seconds later it will power OFF (a click sound from the psu, but the psu has that tick noise since the first day i use it.) then power ON again, then power OFF every 5 seconds, in a loop.
I have to unplug the wall plug to stop the powersupply, after a few try, i am able to turn the PC ON with no issue on gaming/streaming or even putting the PC on sleep/hibernate then power back ON.
Once I restart or completely shut off the PC, it will have the same issue again, so wondering if you know what the issue is?
So far i have done the following with no luck on solving the issue.
1) Switch the psu cables back to the stock cables (i bought custom cables online so that it fits better on my ITX case)
2) Switch the wall plug cable to PSU
3) unplug the Graphics card powersupply cable
PC Spec:
Ryzen 5-1600
2x8gb G.Skill Ripjaw V DDR4 3000
Asrock Fatal1ty X370 ITX Motherboard
Crucial MX300 750gb SSD
Corsair SF600 PSU (Refurb from Newegg)
Noctua NH-N9A cooler
I suspect 2 possible issues,
1) Bad PSU or Power switch cable
2) Bad motherboard
Thanks in advance!
What speed have you set your ram too? sounds ram related to me. get to you bios and load defaults and see if you issues persists.
here is the complete build for my PC https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/DrwPyf
RAM set to 2933mhz (3000mhz kit)
FYI, my GPU is not a normal one, only sold by Newegg, https://www.msi.com/Graphics-card/Radeon-RX-580-8G-V1
+1 on the ram recommendation. Definitely run bios defaults to troubleshoot. If no go after that then swap the PSU. If it was fine before and this suddenly started then try another power supply for sure. Hopefully you sort it soon!
I have personal experience with 3 different Ryzen motherboards doing the reboot loop when they don’t like the ram or the ram settings. However after a number of tries it usually will default to 2133 and boot.
Saw it in MSI b350 Mortar, X370 Taichi ( daily driver now) and the same AsRock X370 itx you have.
Once the bios revisions started hitting I don’t see it now at all using the XMP settings for my kit. If I OC the ram too much or mess with the timings it will fail to post even onn the Taichi which is otherwise rock stable.
I have personal experience with 3 different Ryzen motherboards doing the reboot loop when they don’t like the ram or the ram settings. However after a number of tries it usually will default to 2133 and boot.
Saw it in MSI b350 Mortar, X370 Taichi ( daily driver now) and the same AsRock X370 itx you have.
Once the bios revisions started hitting I don’t see it now at all using the XMP settings for my kit. If I OC the ram too much or mess with the timings it will fail to post even onn the Taichi which is otherwise rock stable.
Here is the video of how the pc reacts after i clicked on the power switch
May i ask how to reset the bios on this board? Does it require to power on the pc?
Sorry to ask such easy question.., i am very new to DIY PC
Glad to see someone with a Salvo 400!
I just built into mine with a SF600 and it does not make that clicking noise.
The PSU clicking doesn’t sound great to be honest. Have you tried posting with just one ram stick installed? Check the motherboard manual for location but you can reset the bios to default by moving a jumper over one pin for 30 seconds and then return to normal position. Then reboot. Do this while shut down and unplugged from power.
Edit: it’s labled CMOS on the board. The manual diagram will have it shown.
Edit: it’s labled CMOS on the board. The manual diagram will have it shown.
Hi guys! I managed to reset the bios and that solved the ON,OFF,ON,OFF loop, which is fantastic because it was to RAM OC issue I believe. To give more info, I used all my existing parts without plugging in any of the parts(psu/gpu) coming from my friend (he lent me his whole computer to do troubleshooting)
Then when i put everything back to my mini itx case as I thought it's good to go, then I had another issue which I was able to turn on all the fans without looping ON, OFF, ON, OFF... but this time it cannot post, no display to my monitor. I then swapped my friend's Cooler Master 720w semi-modular psu and my PC was still acting the same. I restarted a few times and there was one time that the GPU acted weirdly with the fan high and low with no display (darked out) on my monitor... like freeze computer.
I also tested my friend's GTX 1060 but when I ran testbench on GTA, the frame dropped to only a 2-5 FPS, so I was sorta conclude that my GPU might be broken..
I plugged my RX 580 back, and trying to lift the gpu up as I don't want to put it back to my mini itx case (very troublesome). Interestingly, I lifted my gpu, straighten the pcie extender on 0:16 and frame rate increased back to normal. After 0:33, i keep wiggling the display card so that the pcie extender shapes/bends differently and the FPS fluctuates.
Here is what I have concluded (can any of you help to confirm? I'm a newbie so I am not certainty about my conclusion) I think it is likely that the PCI-E extender is causing the drop in Frame or No Post issue.
**I haven't test my PSU supply yet or any of my custom cables I'm currently using my friend's semi-modular psu.
Any suggestions on what to do next?
Then when i put everything back to my mini itx case as I thought it's good to go, then I had another issue which I was able to turn on all the fans without looping ON, OFF, ON, OFF... but this time it cannot post, no display to my monitor. I then swapped my friend's Cooler Master 720w semi-modular psu and my PC was still acting the same. I restarted a few times and there was one time that the GPU acted weirdly with the fan high and low with no display (darked out) on my monitor... like freeze computer.
I also tested my friend's GTX 1060 but when I ran testbench on GTA, the frame dropped to only a 2-5 FPS, so I was sorta conclude that my GPU might be broken..
I plugged my RX 580 back, and trying to lift the gpu up as I don't want to put it back to my mini itx case (very troublesome). Interestingly, I lifted my gpu, straighten the pcie extender on 0:16 and frame rate increased back to normal. After 0:33, i keep wiggling the display card so that the pcie extender shapes/bends differently and the FPS fluctuates.
Here is what I have concluded (can any of you help to confirm? I'm a newbie so I am not certainty about my conclusion) I think it is likely that the PCI-E extender is causing the drop in Frame or No Post issue.
**I haven't test my PSU supply yet or any of my custom cables I'm currently using my friend's semi-modular psu.
Any suggestions on what to do next?
@grsychckn might be able to help with the PCI-e extender. I would ask him. It's possible there is a pinched cable in there, but who knows. Mine works just find and I have it bend according to his instructions.
It works fine now out of the case and the GPU plugged directly into the board?
I also followed his instructions on bending the PCI-e extender.
I am now using my computer to reply your message, and YES my RX 580 is plugged directly into the board.
Ran a few GTA testbench and restarted the PC multiple times, works very smoothly at the moment... (fingers crossed)
Very interesting, I'm guessing you got a bad extender. Either the cords are pinched (probably bad luck) or the PCB isn't going into the extender all the way. I'd be interested to see what @grsychckn thinks. Are you liking the case?
PCB isn't going into the extender? I don't think so, I have tested on other graphics card, functioning the same way (Correct me if I'm wrong in understanding what PCB is)
Do I like the case? Absolutely, just a bit time consuming when taking parts in & out, but i guess most ITXs are like that.. haha
Sorry everyone for not replying sooner. @juvenchan, I sent you a message offering to replace your PCIe extender if it's not working. I also offered to send you a new button if you discovered the switch was bad. After reading your messages, it does seem like the extender is the problem. I had a few extras for just such an occasion so let me know what you'd like to do and I can ship one out to you ASAP.
Also, may I recommend you unscrew the extender from the case and visually inspect it for damage. Then connect the video card to the extender outside the case (lay it on cardboard/paper so it won't build static) and see if it behaves the same way. Let me know what you find.
Thanks Greyhamism & TheHig for clear BIOS suggestion! My PC now no longer have the restart bootloop issue now after the BIOS has reset.
Since my kit is 2x8gb DDR4 3000 (saying for intel), should I leave it as 2133 or increase it back to 2933? OR to 2400/2667? If I do intend to set it to either of the 3 speed, do I need to change the RAM TIMING on the BIOS? previously i left it AUTO and setup the XMP profile at 2933mhz.
Turning you ram down to a speed you can safely boot at is a good start. Once you've figured out what that is, id run some more intensive programs ie games or benchmarks to make sure those speeds are stable for your system under load.
Ryzen systems are still a lot more sensitive to ram speeds than Intel based ones.
If your happy with whatever speeds you end up[ on stick with that, otherwise sourcing something like a set of GSkill Flare X sticks ( https://www.newegg.com/global/au/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820232530 ) might be something to look into, as they're one of the fastest Ryzen compatible kits out there.
I have a set and they XMP perfectly to 3200 out of the box, no tweaks required.
I have G.Skill Trident Z (F4-3200C16D-16GTZB) and they work at 3200MHz in XMP without problem.
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