I'll try to figure out to quantify the temps. Of course, since I'm only stressing about 100W the PSU doesn't even warm up.
I'll try to figure out to quantify the temps. Of course, since I'm only stressing about 100W the PSU doesn't even warm up.
Thanks! And yep, I'll probably have to be a pioneer with this idea. Modding the 8-pin cable was already a step to see how far I could push it. I may not be able to buy the Meanwell and necessary cable parts soon, as I'm strapped for cash right now.
Maybe I'll gather some electronic/PC doodads I have around for money, there's random stuff like LED bars, strips, risers and case fans but it's hard to sell them all
The datasheet suggests a 50mm fan that can supply 10CFM of airflow. According to the diagram, recommended placement is about 50mm away from the longer side.
So true!!! It is frustrating as 90% of their specs seem to make little to no sense and usually are not applicable to our builds anyways :-(
Thanks to your recommendations I'm going to buy the EPP-200 instead of HDPLEX internal 160W unit. It's smaller plus it will allow me to use the C7/C8 connection as no earth connector is required.
You might want to add in the OP that for CPU/APU only setups you can go for the 200W version and mention C14 isn't necessary, despite the block diagram you have. So you can just use a C8 2-prong plug. It would be silly to have that big 3-prong plug in a case only made for a ITX board
I will actually try to use the 200W version with a 6-pin GPU, the GTX 1060. Couple it with a 35W CPU to keep power consumption low. The DC-DC unit will be a 160W HDPLEX with a custom wire harness, where I modded the 8-pin CPU cable to split it into a 4-pin CPU and a 6-pin GPU. I have actually used a 6-pin GPU (GTX 950) with this custom mod and a 200W power brick before, and it ran well.
Hey, I just looked closer at the specs, and I stand corrected. You will need to use at least a C6 for grounding. It should be grounded at one of the mounting points. However, not much should be lost since the C6 is just a lil bit larger.
Ah, glad you told me that! I was gonna ask you that I wasn't sure if the polarity of C8 plugs mattered since they are reversible, but now that answers it, gotta use the C6 cloverleaf plug instead. That's still smaller than C13 at least.
It would be nice to also include Mouser links for the wiring parts in addition to Digi-Key. Mouser requires $100 min for free shipping to Canada, so I'm going to see if I can buy everything from them.
Here's what I've found so far. Someone else should probably also verify that these are correct:
EDIT: I was unable to find alternatives on Mouser, or what I did find was wrong.
Mouser requires $100 min for free shipping to Canada, so I'm going to see if I can buy everything from them.Here's what I've found so far. Someone else should probably also verify that these are correct:
EDIT: I was unable to find alternatives on Mouser, or what I did find was wrong.
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@Thehack would a power supply tester such as this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Q8SUYHW/?tag=theminutiae-20
be a suitable alternative to a sacrificial motherboard for checking everything is wired correctly?
I'm interested (as a few others have mentioned) in trying out the EPP-200 with a g-unique DC-ATX and I'm trying to put together a list of the things I need to pick up to give it a try.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Q8SUYHW/?tag=theminutiae-20
be a suitable alternative to a sacrificial motherboard for checking everything is wired correctly?
I'm interested (as a few others have mentioned) in trying out the EPP-200 with a g-unique DC-ATX and I'm trying to put together a list of the things I need to pick up to give it a try.
I intend to do an EPP 200 build with a 5.7L case but that will have to wait until tax returns.
I do not necessarily need to check the wiring with the tester because you are using a direct plug unit you just have to wire about positive and negative polarity.
Since it was fairly inexpensive I ordered it anyway.
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Good to know, from the point of view of using the EPP-200 it has a single input +ve -ve (GND on the standoff) nice and simple but three outputs. The spec sheet doesn't seem to specify if it can output the full current on just one of those, do you happen to know?
This is single output so it will output at that on the terminals. The negative side is reference.
The +v and the -v can be used as either depending on how you wire since in DC the voltage is relative to what you reference.
Note GND on the standoff is not used in the circuit. It is for chassis grounding. The -ve is a reference for your DC output.
It would be nice to also include Mouser links for the wiring parts in addition to Digi-Key.
Here's what I've found so far. Someone else should probably also verify that these are correct:
JST plug for AC input
C14 Panel Power Entry - Mouser Store
- VHR-5N 5 pin plug for AC input (EPP-300). Mouser Store
- VHR-3N 3 pin plug for AC input (EPP-100, 200, 400). Mouser Store
Thanks for the information. It may be easier to have an embedded Google sheet instead. I'll add the info in when I'm at a desktop which may be a while.
Thanks for clarifying, does that mean the output is 2 wires/traces running to the JST VHR terminal which splits into 3? I just want to make sure it doesn't end up drawing too much current through those pins and overheating.
The JST pins are not for output, those are the AC input. The output are the two screw terminals.
Not on the EPP-200-12 data sheet on mouser
http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/260/EPP-200-spec-944195.pdf
The input is a 2 pin jst and the output is a 6 pin jst.
I see what you are talking about now. The pin are rated for 10A each according to the spec sheet. According to the diagram it uses a single 12V rail so you can combine the positive leads for more current.
But for clarification I'm emailing the tech support.
In light of how confusing this may be I'll gather up specs for a Google sheet doc to show and link different parts required.
What I intend to do with my build is wire the CPU 4pin and PDCB 24pin into different pins. Most market PDCB are only rated up to 120W. The nicer 160W+ are twice as expensive and would eat up a large budget of a low end sffpc build.
@Sicaris IIRC the components in your PC "pull" the necessary current as needed from the PSU. And then you just have to make sure that the PSU can supply the current at the rail(s) and the wire gauge is thick enough to avoid overheating from the current.
Correct me if I'm wrong @Thehack but I believe the EPP-200 has a single rail, right? EDIT: looks like you answered that just a few minutes ago
I'm planning on getting a PICO box z1 160W plug in unit since I can get them much cheaper than a PicoPSU and I don't plan to push the 160W limit.
Correct me if I'm wrong @Thehack but I believe the EPP-200 has a single rail, right? EDIT: looks like you answered that just a few minutes ago
I'm planning on getting a PICO box z1 160W plug in unit since I can get them much cheaper than a PicoPSU and I don't plan to push the 160W limit.
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