- Sep 13, 2020
Done with the littlest pc I've ever had, along with the biggest radiator I've ever had. Priorities, right?
I've hit a much larger snag in the build process than just the radiator screws. The 3090's power connector was interfering with the front fan on the radiator, for which the fix appears to be to swap the radiator with the fans. This works in theory , but if you're not using a GPU water block then you can't run tubing back onto the CPU side of the case since the 3090 takes up all three slots.
So I have two possible fixes, and I'm open to comments on which would be best, I'm going to buy the parts needed to do either.
A: Use an adapter to run a slim 120mm fan on the radiator in the front section, which should give enough clearance to allow the GPU power cable to plug in. Probably lose a bit of cooling performance for the CPU but not so much that it matters most likely.
B: Swap the radiator to the bottom of the case, and then route the GPU side tube over the RAM and somewhere alongside the PSU cabling.
In the interim period I might just install the L12s I bought for case #2, so I can get my main PC running again.
|GPU||AMD Reference 6800XT|
|PSU||Silverstone SX800-LTI (SFX-L)|
|Fans||Arctic P14 PWM PST (x4)|
|CPU Cooler||Arctic Passive AM4|
|Storage||Sabrent Rocket 1TB 4.0 NVME|
|RAM||Corsair Vengeance 32GB (2x16) 3600Mhz (18-22-22-42)|
Yeah I think there's not much more to shave off, I can get the 8pin side of the adapters to the safe area but the wires aren't flexible enough to stay out of the way without assistance. I figure if I can ever get a custom cable made with plain wire it would probably be fine, but I can't find a company that will make those right now so I guess I'm out of luck.
Make your own?Yeah I think there's not much more to shave off, I can get the 8pin side of the adapters to the safe area but the wires aren't flexible enough to stay out of the way without assistance. I figure if I can ever get a custom cable made with plain wire it would probably be fine, but I can't find a company that will make those right now so I guess I'm out of luck.
There's a couple american shops on ebay that sell unsleeved and silicone cable sets for corsair psus in sandwich cases. May not be the perfect length down to the millimeter but it's a startYeah I think there's not much more to shave off, I can get the 8pin side of the adapters to the safe area but the wires aren't flexible enough to stay out of the way without assistance. I figure if I can ever get a custom cable made with plain wire it would probably be fine, but I can't find a company that will make those right now so I guess I'm out of luck.
Unfortunately for me I'm using a Silverstone PSU for the build since it was way easier to get my hands on when everything was out of stock. It's a good PSU but custom cable makers are all about Corsair. I'll have to look into making my own, it's been a while since I made any custom cables, but maybe now's the time.
You could buy the 12 pin cable corsair makes and use your cable as a guide to repin the psu connectors... but if you're not comfortable with that, i understand.Unfortunately for me I'm using a Silverstone PSU for the build since it was way easier to get my hands on when everything was out of stock. It's a good PSU but custom cable makers are all about Corsair. I'll have to look into making my own, it's been a while since I made any custom cables, but maybe now's the time.
Great post! I saw this on discord. I also have P14's and was disappointed with thier motor noise. I wonder if the new noctua's will be an improvement and worth the price increase.I went with an air-cooled build to try out the WinterOne's extensive CFD and engineering. Plus, I'm no where close to being a "good enough" PC builder to feel comfortable with making an SFF watercooled system. I'm perfectly happy leaving that to the experts on here. The custom loop builds on here so far are amazing!
That being said, I decided to try out an "SPK" with the WinterOne. Since the SPK doesn't exist yet for this case and Noctua's isn't ready to launch yet, I picked up an Arctic AM4 Passive cooler from Amazon for about $15. Looking back, it does seem ridiculous to drop the money for the case and then put a $15 CPU cooler that's basically just a slab of aluminum in it, but the results were pretty incredible. I do have an L12S to throw in after I finish testing the Arctic in case anyone is worried about my CPU's longevity.
This is my current build in the W1. I know the cable management could use some work, but Silverstone's flat cables don't lend themselves to 90 degree bends. I do have plans to buy some custom cables in the future to make everything a little neater and get even better airflow
CPU Ryzen 5900X GPU AMD Reference 6800XT PSU Silverstone SX800-LTI (SFX-L) Fans Arctic P14 PWM PST (x4) CPU Cooler Arctic Passive AM4 Storage Sabrent Rocket 1TB 4.0 NVME RAM Corsair Vengeance 32GB (2x16) 3600Mhz (18-22-22-42)
I went with the side panel options as I knew I would be running air cooling. Here's a final shot of the finished build as well. It was very intuitive to build in and due to its construction, very satisfying to put together. The finish, fit, and functionality of this case are impressive.
And the results!
This is a 10 min run of Cinebench R23.
And this is that same test with Heaven DX11 running in tandem.
I was shocked that this worked. I posted in the Discord as well and I think I might've even surprised @WinterCharm. The Arctic Passive is rated for a TDP of 47W. Pretty insane!
- I did undervolt the 5900x using PBO 2.0 in the bios to an all core setting of Negative 4.
- I overclocked and undervolted my 6800xt as shown above
- The fans were running at 100%. I believe the recommendation from WinterCharm is that the fans don't run fast enough to overpower the GPU cooling , but with how hot the CPU was getting, it was an inevitability that this test would do exactly that. I firmly believe that I will be able to turn down my case fan speeds significantly once I install the L12s.
- Due to the fact that the fans were at 100% the noise level was pretty high. I don't own a decimeter and I don't trust phone apps to do so accurately, so my subjective results are all I have. However, I will say that the loudest part of the system were the fan motors, not the utterly astounding amount of wind inside the case. I can't say what the amount of air flowing through was as I also don't own a flow meter, but it had to have been massive to keep the CPU and cooler under wraps.
I'm currently testing gaming performance and some other usage stats with the Arctic Passive before I switch over to the L12s.
This case is fantastic and I can't recommend it enough to anyone, especially if you are into air cooling in SFF cases. Waiting to hear about SPK development in the future, but this is a very promising initial result.
* Update coming Monday evening.
* Spent most of this weekend doing QC and getting cases packed.
* Sending out 33 cases on Wednesday (everything we have parts for!!!)
* This shipment is a lot more Perf Panels than Solid Panels - just ended up that way, based on the production schedule.
* We're still ordering serials by Backer # so rest assured if you have a lower backer number with a solid panel, you will STILL get the serial number we set aside for you, based on the entire order of Batch 1.
* Spacers came in, and will be sent out with all cases from here, onward.
* Those of you who requested spacers, we will be doing our best to ship your spacers on Monday!
Anyone with solid side panels trying to follow the recommended loop order in the manual? I am struggling to figure out how to route things.
Sorry for the questions, not sure if I am understanding correctly. Do I need to go across the spine two times?You'll want to route the CPU >> GPU under the spine, making a C-shaped connection. Then, put the output toward the top rad, and go straight down to the bottom rad, and then back around to your pump / CPU / GPU. Pump can go anywhere -- either in the middle of the Top >> Bottom rad run (nice way to feed it from the top) or in between the U-shape crossover from CPU to GPU.