It just looks like a post in the wrong thread.It's quite different. Maybe the layout is similar, but other than that, the two cases are far apart. As for hardware compatibility, you can find it on Louqe's site, and check with the hardware you're planning to put in it.
Also, the case is in production and has been for a while. You can find actual photos, instead of just photos
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Prototype The world most flexible SFF case? LOUQE Ghost S1
- Thread starter PaChalski
- Start date
Hey there!
Is there a comprehensible parts list for a 240mm custom soft tubing loop with GPU and CPU? I'm specifically asking because of the 90° fittings for the GPU.
Also: Go straight to the apogee in case I'd want to extend to a second 240mm rad?
Thanks!
Is there a comprehensible parts list for a 240mm custom soft tubing loop with GPU and CPU? I'm specifically asking because of the 90° fittings for the GPU.
Also: Go straight to the apogee in case I'd want to extend to a second 240mm rad?
Thanks!
OptimumTech did a build video on this. They used the Alphacool pump/block, but the apogee would future proof the build as you say. I like the radiator they used as it can be used as a reservoir and plan to use that if I go custom (for now I'm using a Fractal Celsius S24, but I haven't put the side panels on yet and I'm not happy with how much I'm going to have to bend the tubes to get it to fit).
And the followup video with the barb fittings that allowed them to close the side panel...
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I have a question about the clearance with the pslatecustoms sleeved wiring kits. How much room do they leave for a fan below the PSU? The pictures of the sleeved ATX cables look like the wires fill almost all of the space below the PSU. The pictures of the unsleeved versions show room for 2x2.5" drives, which is likely enough room for at least a 15mm fan, (I must have remembered the wrong pictures - they clearly have a 25mm fan under the PSU with the unsleeved cables).
I've managed to fit a full 25mm fan below my PSU with the stock SF750 sleeved cables by routing my 24-pin cable behind the PSU and out the side as can be seen here:
Will I have to give up my extra fan if I go with the sleeved pslatecustoms cables?
I've managed to fit a full 25mm fan below my PSU with the stock SF750 sleeved cables by routing my 24-pin cable behind the PSU and out the side as can be seen here:
Will I have to give up my extra fan if I go with the sleeved pslatecustoms cables?
I have a question about the clearance with the pslatecustoms sleeved wiring kits. How much room do they leave for a fan below the PSU? The pictures of the sleeved ATX cables look like the wires fill almost all of the space below the PSU. The pictures of the unsleeved versions show room for2x2.5" drives, which is likely enough room for at least a 15mm fan,(I must have remembered the wrong pictures - they clearly have a 25mm fan under the PSU with the unsleeved cables).
I've managed to fit a full 25mm fan below my PSU with the stock SF750 sleeved cables by routing my 24-pin cable behind the PSU and out the side as can be seen here:
Will I have to give up my extra fan if I go with the sleeved pslatecustoms cables?
I wish I had a fan mounted so you could see the clearance. The cables are fairly thick and there is very little room between the bottom of the PSU and the fan.
Edit: Looking at this Reddit post the OP is using pslate cables with a 15mm fan and grill, I think you are going to have trouble keeping the cables away from the fan blades without a grill.
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Quick questions.
1- Using a R5 3600 that I'll undervolt, should I go right ahead and use the LNA adapter on my NH-L12S?
2- Did anyone use a NH-L12S in a Gigabyte B450 I Aorus Pro WIFI and can share what cooler orientation was easier to bend to fit inside the Ghost and considering the motherboard components?
1- Using a R5 3600 that I'll undervolt, should I go right ahead and use the LNA adapter on my NH-L12S?
2- Did anyone use a NH-L12S in a Gigabyte B450 I Aorus Pro WIFI and can share what cooler orientation was easier to bend to fit inside the Ghost and considering the motherboard components?
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The sleeved cables aren't made to fit with a 25mm thick fan below the PSU, but I've seen one customer do it:
However it looks like that fan is set as intake while yours is exhaust. I don't think the cables in the picture above would clear with the fan as exhaust. If you want a 25mm thick fan below the PSU I'd recommend the unsleeved cables, otherwise I'd go with a slim fan w/ fan grill for sleeved cables.
Thanks for the reply (and the example pic) pslate! I'm looking forward to ordering at least the PCIe and EPS cables when your shop goes back online.
Another question - are the unsleeved cables the same gauge as the sleeved cables? Is the added bulk in the sleeved cables entirely from the sleeving or are they using thicker wire?
Currently I'm debating between:
- - Full set of unsleeved cables with the fan and AIO (the fan exhausts hot air from the hottest part of my stock cooled 2080 Ti FE)
- - Sleeved EPS and PCIe in black to match the sleeved Corsair ATX cable that I've snaked behind the PSU
- - Full custom (GPU+CPU) loop with no bottom fan and then I am free to choose whatever cables look good
If I go with the unsleeved option I would normally choose the black version as I'm a big fan of black for cables, but I think in this case I'd go with the silver/transparent version as it has a nice retro look and the black wires have white lettering on them that detracts from their "Japanese kuroko" effect.
Sorry for the late reply, but all of the wires I use are 18awg. The insulation on the wire I use for sleeved cables is much thicker though which gives the cables a fuller look. Sometimes I use thinner insulation 18awg UL1007 wire for sleeved cables if the run is really tight or the cable needs to be low profile for some reason (for example the low profile cables needed to fit my 1080ti FTW3).
(Puts down crayons and cries...)
TL;DR - some advice on working bubbles through a reservoir-less (radiator-as-reservoir) SFF loop would be appreciated.
OK, so I'm in the process of switching my build to a custom water loop. This is my first venture into custom loops and I'm doing it in a case smaller than my toaster. Yay, for the wayward fool! I'm still in the "intransigent bubble" phase. There are probably more topical "water cooling specific" places to vent and ask for advice, but the water cooling loops for SFF are pretty situation specific, so I thought I'd start here and maybe my trevails will help others working on their Ghost builds. I did do quite a bit of watching videos and researching water cooling parts so I came into this well informed, but I think I see now why they never show more than 2 seconds of "watch water slowly drip into my tubes and blocks" in the build videos before they jump to thermal graphs.
I'm using a NexXxus ST30 radiator on top, an EK Vector GPU block, and an Apogee base with a DDC-310 pump on it. I'm using Mayhem's Ultraclear tubing because it's my first loop ever and I wanted to be able to visualize how the water is filling in the spaces. I'm glad I did that because I had a lot of bubbles in the tubing while filling it that collected in places I wouldn't have thought and were hard to move along by hand during the filling phase (multiple bubbles all want to go opposite directions) and the clear tubing helped a lot with that. Once primed, the DDC-310 moves the water very quickly through the system judging from the bubbles racing through the loop.
My loop is set up radiator -> GPU block -> Apogee -> radiator with the GPU block connected in the "normal, but not critical" direction (i.e. flows in over the chip, out through the fins, and then around the block). Everything fits with the case sides sliding easily over all parts and tubing with about 1mm to spare and nothing has leaked so far (knocks on wood). I'll detail my build later with pics if I don't throw it down the hill outside my house, but a hint is that the Koolance low-profile elbow fittings rule for this application.
What helped a lot getting out most of the air was to hook up a short (1 foot) pseudo-reservoir tube with a barb fitting on one of the radiator top fill holes and fill it with 4 inches or so of fluid. I chose the port over the return tube because I thought the returning air would immediately look for the high point and have momentum into the reservoir tube. It turns out the air bubbles slightly preferred collecting near the outlet tube and would loiter in that tube just outside the outlet. So choosing the other port over the outlet tube might have been slightly easier. It wasn't that bad because if I turned off the pump and rotated the case just a little, that bubble would travel through the radiator back to the inlet and into the reservoir tube, so the workaround was pretty easy. In terms of catching air as it shot back into the radiator - that was a bust as, if anything, the water level in the tube rose when the pump was running (I had a mark on the tube to gauge whether it was gaining or losing fluid).
At this point nearly all air is vacated, but for some tiny bubbles on the walls of the tubes that I haven't gotten to and one "big" bubble that amounts to about a 1-1.5 inch of 16/10 tubing when I manage to collect it in a tube. The reservoir was no longer helpful for that last remaining bubble because I can't get it to collect in the radiator where I can easily displace it with fluid. Instead it just loves to collect in the chamber just beyond the fins in the GPU block. The loop direction may be fighting me here, but the easiest route to the radiator would have been back through the intake and up the line to the radiator. Unfortunately, the air doesn't like to flow back through the fins (probably capillary effect in the thin fins) so I can't get it to travel that way. Instead, to move it forward to the GPU block outlet, I have to do about 20 seconds of weightlifting gymnastics to rotate the case all the way around through a loop-de-loop. At that point I can isolate it in the GPU outlet tube, but unfortunately from there it has to travel to the pump. The pump has enough power to suck that bubble through the tube and then it basically atomizes the bubble and I see tiny bits of air rushing through the return tubes to the radiator and then they go all the way through and back to the GPU block where they collect again just past the fins.
This last bubble doesn't collect anywhere near the radiator unfortunately so I don't think a tube reservoir in either radiator port will help (or even if I put it in the one port at the far end of the "out and back" radiator where I currently have a temp sensor.
Am I screwed for having reversed my loop (GPU before CPU)? Is there a better way to fashion a "tube reservoir" that is more effective at collecting air? Any advice on "Olympic level air bubble gymnastics"?
TL;DR - some advice on working bubbles through a reservoir-less (radiator-as-reservoir) SFF loop would be appreciated.
OK, so I'm in the process of switching my build to a custom water loop. This is my first venture into custom loops and I'm doing it in a case smaller than my toaster. Yay, for the wayward fool! I'm still in the "intransigent bubble" phase. There are probably more topical "water cooling specific" places to vent and ask for advice, but the water cooling loops for SFF are pretty situation specific, so I thought I'd start here and maybe my trevails will help others working on their Ghost builds. I did do quite a bit of watching videos and researching water cooling parts so I came into this well informed, but I think I see now why they never show more than 2 seconds of "watch water slowly drip into my tubes and blocks" in the build videos before they jump to thermal graphs.
I'm using a NexXxus ST30 radiator on top, an EK Vector GPU block, and an Apogee base with a DDC-310 pump on it. I'm using Mayhem's Ultraclear tubing because it's my first loop ever and I wanted to be able to visualize how the water is filling in the spaces. I'm glad I did that because I had a lot of bubbles in the tubing while filling it that collected in places I wouldn't have thought and were hard to move along by hand during the filling phase (multiple bubbles all want to go opposite directions) and the clear tubing helped a lot with that. Once primed, the DDC-310 moves the water very quickly through the system judging from the bubbles racing through the loop.
My loop is set up radiator -> GPU block -> Apogee -> radiator with the GPU block connected in the "normal, but not critical" direction (i.e. flows in over the chip, out through the fins, and then around the block). Everything fits with the case sides sliding easily over all parts and tubing with about 1mm to spare and nothing has leaked so far (knocks on wood). I'll detail my build later with pics if I don't throw it down the hill outside my house, but a hint is that the Koolance low-profile elbow fittings rule for this application.
What helped a lot getting out most of the air was to hook up a short (1 foot) pseudo-reservoir tube with a barb fitting on one of the radiator top fill holes and fill it with 4 inches or so of fluid. I chose the port over the return tube because I thought the returning air would immediately look for the high point and have momentum into the reservoir tube. It turns out the air bubbles slightly preferred collecting near the outlet tube and would loiter in that tube just outside the outlet. So choosing the other port over the outlet tube might have been slightly easier. It wasn't that bad because if I turned off the pump and rotated the case just a little, that bubble would travel through the radiator back to the inlet and into the reservoir tube, so the workaround was pretty easy. In terms of catching air as it shot back into the radiator - that was a bust as, if anything, the water level in the tube rose when the pump was running (I had a mark on the tube to gauge whether it was gaining or losing fluid).
At this point nearly all air is vacated, but for some tiny bubbles on the walls of the tubes that I haven't gotten to and one "big" bubble that amounts to about a 1-1.5 inch of 16/10 tubing when I manage to collect it in a tube. The reservoir was no longer helpful for that last remaining bubble because I can't get it to collect in the radiator where I can easily displace it with fluid. Instead it just loves to collect in the chamber just beyond the fins in the GPU block. The loop direction may be fighting me here, but the easiest route to the radiator would have been back through the intake and up the line to the radiator. Unfortunately, the air doesn't like to flow back through the fins (probably capillary effect in the thin fins) so I can't get it to travel that way. Instead, to move it forward to the GPU block outlet, I have to do about 20 seconds of weightlifting gymnastics to rotate the case all the way around through a loop-de-loop. At that point I can isolate it in the GPU outlet tube, but unfortunately from there it has to travel to the pump. The pump has enough power to suck that bubble through the tube and then it basically atomizes the bubble and I see tiny bits of air rushing through the return tubes to the radiator and then they go all the way through and back to the GPU block where they collect again just past the fins.
This last bubble doesn't collect anywhere near the radiator unfortunately so I don't think a tube reservoir in either radiator port will help (or even if I put it in the one port at the far end of the "out and back" radiator where I currently have a temp sensor.
Am I screwed for having reversed my loop (GPU before CPU)? Is there a better way to fashion a "tube reservoir" that is more effective at collecting air? Any advice on "Olympic level air bubble gymnastics"?
I really suggest to add a quick disconnect and fill the loop with an external reservoir.
What I had to do was mine was rotate the case multiple times, and I do mean multiple. Turn it on both sides, upside down and give it some good shakes at each rotation. Make sure you have the pump running during this process, I was eventually able to move all the bubbles in mine up to the radiator.
D
Deleted member 17667
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Hi guys, I just registered here to tell you my frustration with my new Louqe Ghost S1. I purchased it from Proshop in Denmark, delivered to Germany. It was Batch 4.
I have spent the last days trying to build my PC but I have killed 3!! Mainboard in this time. All Boards worked perfectly before I placed them into the Ghost, but once they were place and screwed into the Ghost I started the PC, the fans spinned for less than a second and direct shutdown. Shot Circuit!
That’s it, Mainboards died. The first board was replaced by my the local PC Shop luckily, the two others now are on my cost. Pure shit, sorry to say but this is unacceptable...
I have spent the last days trying to build my PC but I have killed 3!! Mainboard in this time. All Boards worked perfectly before I placed them into the Ghost, but once they were place and screwed into the Ghost I started the PC, the fans spinned for less than a second and direct shutdown. Shot Circuit!
That’s it, Mainboards died. The first board was replaced by my the local PC Shop luckily, the two others now are on my cost. Pure shit, sorry to say but this is unacceptable...
Are you getting a good ground between the motherboard and standoffs?
Thanks! Some form of that eventually worked.
I discovered that I could get the bubble to pass back through the fins into the GPU intake (and from there back through the tube to the radiator) if it was large enough and I was patient and shook it a bit. I was able to get a large air pocket out that way, but then another smaller one formed and it got harder and harder until I finally just let it run for a couple of hours with my makeshift tube reservoir plugged into the port above the radiator outlet. That and then wiggling the chassis around without letting the tube spill finally got a few more smaller bubbles out. Most of the microbubbles are out as well, but I still have a small 15mmx5mm bubble in the GPU chamber.
And now that I'm running the system again, the thermals seem nice even though I haven't spent much time tuning. I ran furmark for one full 4k cycle and the GPU never broke 40c. I then ran cinebench and according to Ryzen Master it was at about 70c which is several degrees lower than I was running with the Celsius S24.
The only problem left is that I can't get the bios to let me run the DDC-310 less than 60% which is about 1800rpm and has an annoying high pitched whine that sounds like something is caught in a fan. Grrr! The DDC-310 was supposed to be the silent cousin to the standard 18w DDC...
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D
Deleted member 17667
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Yes, when I placed the third MB I checked for clearance, all good. It was only sitting on the screws. I even left the SFX Power Supply out of the Ghost S1 to ensure that there is no problem with the power supply as it’s also touching the frame when installed.
Still the board was killed immediately. Happy to sent it free of charge if someone likes to check, but this is definitely a production error.
Still the board was killed immediately. Happy to sent it free of charge if someone likes to check, but this is definitely a production error.
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