S4 MINI Classic (S4M-C)

[Curiosity]

It was a little while ago and I've since resold the 3570S, and looking at my old benchmarks it doesn't seem like it was a big difference.
Here's the compare between the 3570S firestrike result I got and the same test on my 3570K the day before.
It's pretty negligible, especially when you consider that there's an extra 4gb of ram in the 3570K system.
But for some reason I distinctly remember there being some small amount of slowness compared to what I was used to when I installed the 3570S. And since I didn't notice a difference in temperature under the C7 between the S and K it wasn't worth it to me to keep it.
the 3570S is a 65W CPU vs the 77W of my 3570K, so my thought is that the C7 was saturated with heat and that 12W doesn't really make much of a difference with the cooling setup I had.
I'm certain 35W vs 77W would be a difference though. : )
Unfortunately I can't find my actual benchmarks for temps, but I don't remember seeing a difference in load temperatures, though idle temps were a little lower.

Edit:
When I say I'll lose performance, I'm going off the user benchmark site's info, the 6600T looks to be about on par with a regular 3570K, a little below what my personal 3570K tested at, and since the 6400T is clocked lower I imagine I'd at least feel a slight slowdown like I did with the 3570S.

 

[hat1324]

Guys it happened again... My 4 pin power connector fused to my HDPLEX. Luckily I caught it early this time so it only fused a little and I was able to snap it off with minimal damage to the socket. (Thank god, since I epoxied the socket to the board)

I'm soldering the new pins on this time. I don't want ANY arcing or current bottlenecks

 

[jeshikat]

Guys it happened again... My 4 pin power connector fused to my HDPLEX.

Just so I'm understanding, it's the 4-pin Power In socket on the 250W HDPLEX DC-ATX?

 

[hat1324]

Just so I'm understanding, it's the 4-pin Power In socket on the 250W HDPLEX DC-ATX?

That's correct

 

[RenG]

That's correct

Does this mean the hdplex is prone to this or you just got a bad unit? Or maybe you're drawing much higher power than you anticipated?

I'm planning to use hdplex as well. Might consider the picobox if this is a real problem.

 

[hat1324]

I think it means I need better cables. I am drawing far over the rated wattage after all

 

[QinX]

I think it means I need better cables. I am drawing far over the rated wattage after all

What exactly are you running then?

The mini-fit connectors should be able to handle the current without any problem. You'd have to be drawing over 350W continously for the Mini-fit Jr. socket to reach it RATED maximum current draw and you bet that includes some decent margin. Did you swap the cables that came with the HDPLEX?

 

[hat1324]

Yes I did. This is why I suspect them to be a point of failure. They are of greater gauge than the original so I'm mostly suspicious of my crimp job/the Chinese pins I'm using

 

[Josh | NFC]

Yeah unless you buy in bulk the official MOLEX mini fit jr pins are a doozy at 12 cents a pop! But I think they are worth it. They crimp easier and form better too, so if you are doing alot it saves time.

Unless you had a really bad crimp or bad oxidization I'm surprised you keep having this problem. 0_o

 

[hat1324]

Any idea where I can find very high temperature connectors? I can deal with pin oxidization but when the housing fuses its a real problem.

 

[jeshikat]

For Molex parts, this 4-pin: http://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active/0039013048_CRIMP_HOUSINGS.xml

Combined with the Mini-Fit Plus HCS gold-plated 16 AWG terminal: http://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active/0457503212_CRIMP_TERMINALS.xml

Would be about as good as it gets. With 16 gauge wire that combination is rated for 13A per circuit.

The Mini-Fit Plus terminals are compatible with the normal Mini-Fit Jr housings, but they're meant to mate with either other Mini-Fit Plus terminals or solid pin soldered connectors. PSUs use the solid pins though so you'd be set there. Then all that's left is having a good crimper that gives a solid crimp.

I bought an actual Molex crimper, I should be getting it tomorrow. If you're in the USA you can borrow after I'm done redoing the harness for my STX build for the price of shipping.

 

[Zuuk]

Guys keep frying PSU's like they grow in trees over there

I've been running my early batch S4 for well over 6 months now. 65w CPU and the infamous Zotac 970 with the shroud removed. Was thinking of getting in the pico-psu + 1060 bandwagon. Mainly because I hate cable clutter. I ran BF1 beta last night and the S4 was pumping a constant 60fps settings on high @ 1600P.

Still amazes me I can run stuff so well with this little box.

 

[RenG]

I'm not sure if this is the right thread to post this.

The reason I can't finish my S4 build is because I also spend for my EDC stuff. Anyone here also a fan of EDC?

S4 #31. Along with my EDC tools.

 

[flacman]

I'm not sure if this is the right thread to post this.

The reason I can't finish my S4 build is because I also spend for my EDC stuff. Anyone here also a fan of EDC?

S4 #31. Along with my EDC tools.

I'm a fan of EDC... I travel for work a lot and use a Goruck GR2 to shift around all of my toys - company laptop, MacBook and MSI GS60...

 

[Josh | NFC]

My email broke and pretty much anything I missed is gone forever. I know alot of people view this thread from the internets and then email about availability--please resend any message that I didn't respond to!

I am so sorry!

 

[Smallform Gaming]

I was wondering what happened.
3x emails resent.
No worries, stuff like this happens.

 

[hardcore_gamer]

XFX RX 460 Fanless. Ideal for low-noise builds. I believe S4 mini can have a 120mm low profile GPU fan for forced air intake.

 

[iFreilicht]

XFX RX 460 Fanless. Ideal for low-noise builds. I believe S4 mini can have a 120mm low profile GPU fan for forced air intake.

My answer to the claim that this card was 170mm long:

Only the PCB, though

Can someone work their size-comparison magic on this image? My technique (holding up a ruler to the screen), isn't particularly accurate, but it seems like the heatsink overhangs by about 40mm, so total length without tabs would be 218. Not suitable for ITX GPU cases, unfortunately.

Definitely 30-40mm. There's a bit of perspective so it's hard to measure exactly but I think it's closer to 40mm.

I don't think the S4 supports 218mm long GPUs. And there's only enough space for a fan if the cooler itself doesn't take up two complete slots.

 

[hardcore_gamer]

My answer to the claim that this card was 170mm long:

Yup, definitely not a mini ITX card. However, S4 mini can fit 8" cards.

 

[Rene Canlas]

What's an unmodified Pico? I i'm powering the 1060 using a molex to 6pin adapter, so i'm going to assume that's unmodified because i didn't touch any wires or cut anything up.

I did an S4 mini overhaul this afternoon:
1) Removed the HDPlex, and installed a PicoPSU
2) Resoldered my power button to use terminals rather than directly soldered to the pins
3) Swapped out the GTX 960 to benchmark the GTX 1060

Here's a comparison to the EVGA 960 - this likely means that the 1060 EVGA card will be the same size as the 960, which is about 0.5cm longer than the Zotac ITX.

Cleaned up chassis, it looks wayyyy better than having the HDPlex in there:

Benchmarks against the REFERENCE RX480 (not sure if i'm doing this right so just let me know if i'm missing anything):

Specs:
Intel i5-6500
GTX 1060
16GB RAM
M.2 850 EVO
Gigabyte H170N-WIFI

Running a 160 Pico PSU with a 192 W adapter. Pico's rated to 200W Peak, obviously a T proc is more ideal here but I think the pico can handle this well.

Hi Shaun,

Can you do me a solid and take a picture of the 192W AC-DC power brick you used side by side with the Dell power brick? How's the weight compared to the Dell? Thanks!

Rene