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S4 MINI Classic (S4M-C)
- Thread starter Josh | NFC
- Start date
This is something I have thought about but there are some challenges I need to work through. The nut for the switch bolts the bezel to the frame. So boring on the opposite side of the bezel wouldn't fix the mating problem. The solution would be to bore out the switch side and then add more slots for brass nutserts, but this makes the bezel more complicated and more expensive. Still, technically viable for the wood. The acrylic would look pretty bad. I am thinking about going back to a bolt-through for the acrylic as I am not sure about the nutsert yet. It looks OK, but not fantastic.
T H I C C
How thick are the nuts you're using on your buttons? I'll check later, but off the top of my head it sounds like it might just work.
Instead of a counterbore, why not cut a thread into the bezel itself? Doesn't solve the fastening problem, but works for wood as well as for acrylic and looks good on either.
For fastening, as the bezels are so thick, you wouldn't really need threaded inserts, you could just have two blind threaded holes next to the button cut into the bezel. Again, not an ideal solution for acrylic, but with black screws would look better than inserts. Not sure if there's any holes on the frame right now that you could use for fastening close to the button, but worst comes to worst the frame can be modded.
I am proud of my tap collection but dang.
Yeah, I think it could possible to thread the ON/OFF switch aperture to retain it and might be simple to do with a high quality tap. Never know with some woods though. It is a much nicer solution than using hot glue
Though working on old cars I have learned that if you wrap guages in electrical tape you can put them in without having to bolt them in the back which is always a pain. I think this would work for owners who don't mind a little mod time with their minis...if it turns out that the threading doesnt work.
My main issue is just threading in more nutserts. Blind threads did not work at all for the hardwood, which is why I had to overbore and use the nutserts. Did not want to use nutserts...they can damage the wood and whats worst is they cost $0.78 a piece and cut into my OUTRAGEOUS profits!!!!
I agree though on the nutserts in the acrylic. I did take crappy pictures for the acrylic but I think that the black screw all the way through looks far better.
Felix is a an idea making machine. He will probably give the history books some ideas.
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True, that looks pretty good with the acrylic. Here's the post Josh is referencing:
Hey guys!
I have returned to sap some more knowledge from you! as you all are so helpful! Well this is more of a request but anyone with custom cables and an HDPlex PSU could I ask the measurements of your 24 pin and GPU cables? I just need a rough idea on what lengths I would need for a nice crisp clean build!
I have returned to sap some more knowledge from you! as you all are so helpful! Well this is more of a request but anyone with custom cables and an HDPlex PSU could I ask the measurements of your 24 pin and GPU cables? I just need a rough idea on what lengths I would need for a nice crisp clean build!
well with the ASUS Strix Z270i and the HDPlex 400w the Mobo cable would be 2.5in (visible wire) and my estimates on the CPU and GPU (yet to be confirmed) are 6-6.5in for the CPU and 9-9.5in on the GPU (again, visible wire)
You might need to add a few mm if you're not sleeving in paracord though since PET-type sleeving is a bit less flexible.
Hi guys, I don't know if this has been posted about yet but does anyone have/use the cryorig fan adapter (link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2313969 ) for 120mm or 92mm fans? I read it doesn't change temperatures (which I honestly couldn't care about) but it makes the cooler quieter depending on what fan you go with.
Anyways, my question is, will it have enough clearance with the s4 side panel if I go with a 25mm thick fan (standard). I have a few noctua's lying around and I don't wanna buy a new fan until they release their new fans they've been showing off. If what I'm reading is right the new cpu cooler height will be 57mm.
Anyways, my question is, will it have enough clearance with the s4 side panel if I go with a 25mm thick fan (standard). I have a few noctua's lying around and I don't wanna buy a new fan until they release their new fans they've been showing off. If what I'm reading is right the new cpu cooler height will be 57mm.
Using the 92mmX25mm gray fan already touches the side panel, so I would assume that with the adapter it would be too tall.
any recommendations for a 120x15mm fan? and how bad does it touch the side panel? I wouldn't mind if it was a tight fit, so long as it fits.
I would try noctuas own 15mm line or cryorigs 140mmx15 which should in theory also work
The Nocta 15mm fan is TASTY!
I do wish it was 12mm though...those 3mm...its like a grand canyon in the S4 MINI
I do wish it was 12mm though...those 3mm...its like a grand canyon in the S4 MINI
Hi Josh,
Just want to confirm if my vandal switches are deep enough?
You need 13.3mm of thread and that looks like 17.5 so you are golden.
Ok, I've checked now. The way it is currently set up, Iris 16 has a thread of 12.5mm length. Not enough.
Buuuuut, there are a few possible solutions to this. First off, the whole body is 18.5mm long, so I could make the thread quite a bit longer, no problem. From the top of the button to the metal housing of the micro HDMI connector there's 15mm of space, so depending on the size of the nut it might be possible to just file the plastic part of the connector down to fit next to the nut. Maybe there's also a super-slim cable that would allow this.
The internal design of the button would also allow to make a rear-exit upgrade kit (but that would probably lead to the cable bumping into the mainboard) or it might be possible to do a solder-it-yourself upgrade that allows to mod the button to have a directly connected cable harness with rear or side entry. The last option is something I've considered anyway.
So it's certainly possible, but might require a little bit of adjustment. Not that your customers would have any problems with that
What is the thickness of the nut on your switches? That would be a good size to work off of.
