That actually seems really reasonable! I look forward to your review/experince with it.
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Why would you want that specifically? Couldn't you just get a typical Asus type c monitor?
i think everything should be thunderbolt 3 by now. its just convenient
ummmm. if you look at our previous discussions you will see that there is a problem with usb type c.
Only one usb type C graphic card has been announced.
The is no adapter that you can attach to current gpus so they can output to usb type c .
You CAN use a usb type c port from the motherboard but it would use display link (which isnt direct input), as opposed to dp-over-usb type c which is a bonafide dsiplay port + power cable in the shape of one usb type -c cable.
Edit:
Basically.
If you want to use usb type C.
You need to buy the revised MSI GTX 1080ti gaming x with usb type c (the current one doesnt have it)
(almost a 3 slot card which won't enter most SFF builds)
799 GBP over
+
The new Asus monitor, because it is one of the only ones that does accept dp-over usb type c.
250 GBP
So you either go for that expensive combo,
Or you stick to existing tech like the Fushilang monitors from China, or the PackPixel ipad screen that uses DP like a regular monitor and usb for power, or a DIY monitor, if you want a proper display that can show you the boot screen.
Only one usb type C graphic card has been announced.
The is no adapter that you can attach to current gpus so they can output to usb type c .
You CAN use a usb type c port from the motherboard but it would use display link (which isnt direct input), as opposed to dp-over-usb type c which is a bonafide dsiplay port + power cable in the shape of one usb type -c cable.
Edit:
Basically.
If you want to use usb type C.
You need to buy the revised MSI GTX 1080ti gaming x with usb type c (the current one doesnt have it)
(almost a 3 slot card which won't enter most SFF builds)
799 GBP over
+
The new Asus monitor, because it is one of the only ones that does accept dp-over usb type c.
250 GBP
So you either go for that expensive combo,
Or you stick to existing tech like the Fushilang monitors from China, or the PackPixel ipad screen that uses DP like a regular monitor and usb for power, or a DIY monitor, if you want a proper display that can show you the boot screen.
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Type C != Thunderbolt.
There are three ways a Type C port can connect to a monitor:
- Over USB 3.1/3.1 and DisplayLink (basically a USB connected ultra-low-end GPU). DisplayLink is something that should be avoided at all costs if you like things such as system stability and your actual GPU working properly.
- Over DisplayPort Alternate Mode. This basically turns the Type-C port into a DisplayPort output, but with power delivery capability
- Over Thunderbolt Alternate Mode. This is similar to DP Alternate Mode, but while a DP stream is used to carry the image, it is encapsualted within the Thunderbolt transport so also carries data and allows for Thunderbolt passthrough to other devices in a chain.
Yeah that's the EXACT problem with Type-C now. It's great they're attempting to replace everything, but you have things like what @EdZ described. The worst part of the problem is at the cables: the cables (oh the cables) are rated for different connections as well!!!
It's less a problem with the port itself, and more a problem with manufacturers being absolutely abysmally awful at actually labelling what their ports do. It's been several years and one massive compatibility clusterf*ck (the initial generation of Eyefinity cards that required some but not all ports to use active adapters) and both Nvidia and AMD still fail to properly label their DP ports as DP++, and consequently we still have people thinking they need active DP-DVI or DP-HDMI adapters, or demanding the presence of redundant DVI or HDMI ports because they don't know that their cards are already capable of driving that directly through the DP++ ports.
Guys! I finally finshed my mod! Let me direct you over here!
https://smallformfactor.net/forum/threads/my-modded-ipad-display.2680/
https://smallformfactor.net/forum/threads/my-modded-ipad-display.2680/
Received a parts-only iPad just yesterday, and dammit I haven't got past Step "1". I've only a mini oven (for meals) and I'm tempted to use it ._.
Is that for debonding the screen? One trick is to get one of those cheap 'neck warmer' cushions (usually filled with dessicated rice or some other grain), heat that up and place it around the edge of the screen. This warms up the glue with minimal heating of the LCD panel itself.
Yes I was just googling an alternative to iFixit's heatpack! Thanks for the tip! (iFixit things take $40-ish to ship to my area ,_,)
Just find a friend with a hairdryer. I used my mom's and it worked fine. Just be patient with the glue. It took me about 15 min to finally get it off.
oh crap I found something bone obvious as the heat pad for 6 bux: A hot-and-cold recovery pack.
whaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay! c:
whaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay! c:
Well I finally got time to test the 4K LCD:
The controller board I ordered from China (Model: R9511 from Clientop) is really fantastic.
Major PITA to order and import though, would be so nice if they opened up an AliExpress store...
However, I do have to advise against buying a matte panel. I got the LQ156D1JW04 which is matte, but the screen door effect is really, really bad. You can't see it in this picture as the original film is still on the display, and it's impossible to photograph since it's so subtle. The matte screen is great since there's no glare, but the picture quality really suffers. I'd recommend the LQ156D1JX01 (gloss) instead. As a bonus, the JX01 is cheaper than the JW04 panel ($95 versus $130).
Now to design and cut a case...
Rant: If only I had bought a GTX 1060 sooner...
The controller board I ordered from China (Model: R9511 from Clientop) is really fantastic.
- 2 HDMI inputs
- 1 DisplayPort 1.2 (MST support claimed, but I can't test because I have only Intel HD4000 without MST support)
- wired control board (strangely incomplete, missing the up/down keys required to operate the OSD. EDIT: the keys are there, just mislabeled)
- IR remote (thankfully with all the necessary keys to operate the OSD)
Major PITA to order and import though, would be so nice if they opened up an AliExpress store...
However, I do have to advise against buying a matte panel. I got the LQ156D1JW04 which is matte, but the screen door effect is really, really bad. You can't see it in this picture as the original film is still on the display, and it's impossible to photograph since it's so subtle. The matte screen is great since there's no glare, but the picture quality really suffers. I'd recommend the LQ156D1JX01 (gloss) instead. As a bonus, the JX01 is cheaper than the JW04 panel ($95 versus $130).
Now to design and cut a case...
Rant: If only I had bought a GTX 1060 sooner...
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Do you know if any LapDock would do the trick?
Check This Linus Tech Tips use of TB2
If he could do this with TB2, with TB3 you can power even 100w (theory)
I plan to do this, but connecting it just to a Lapdock.
I still don't know if it would work. If it works with cell phones. Right?
Check This Linus Tech Tips use of TB2
If he could do this with TB2, with TB3 you can power even 100w (theory)
I plan to do this, but connecting it just to a Lapdock.
I still don't know if it would work. If it works with cell phones. Right?
The lapdock is USB, not thunderbolt. Even so, there's no anecdotes (from googling) of anyone plugging it to a PC (they explicitly said it's deisgned for windows phones), so...
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