Master of Cramming
- May 1, 2017
Ok, hope they will fix this in the production version...Has to do with the anodizing process. Its pretty easy to result in a soft anodization when its not tuned properly.
Some things I've noticed/comments after Frank's video:
- I know it's obviously one of the prototype cases, but the ease at which his model seemed to scratch or chip is somewhat concerning. Will the finish be "thicker" or "deeper" for the production model, or will there be some sort of clear coat to prevent that?
EDIT: I was correct, the actual finish will be better.
- I know there will be bushings on the front of the core that slides in, but do you think it's necessary for there to be any on the back panel's edges to keep it looking fresh as it guides in as well?
EDIT: I found the answer to this, and the answer was yes, there will be insert guide bushings.
- The motherboard I/O doesn't seem too recessed from the surface of the back panel. Meaning things like WiFi antenna connectors may be extended out further, so it doesn't sit flat on the back side. Has any consideration for some sort of handle (whether two small ones or make one tubular one) been considered to aid in both sliding in, and removing the core? If the handle are easily removable and not necessary it argueably doesn't change the 9.7L of volume.
EDIT: This wouldn't be entirely necessary, but more of a convenience thing.
Yeah, was wondering that too. How come the surface scratches so easily?? Wasn't expecting this.
Has to do with the anodizing process. Its pretty easy to result in a soft anodization when its not tuned properly.
Ok, hope they will fix this in the production version...
@AlexTzone: have you thought about improving the anodization for better durability? You should really test the surface finish before commiting. Try to scratch the surface with a coin or something to ensure it can withstand minor abrasion.
I found some problem.
Watching the video of "Optimum Tech" again, the rail is bent under load.
and this 'randomfrankp'
I have posted a note that I was afraid the rail would bend before.
Wandering whether to suggest it for a few days, and as @For_Science made a comprehensive analysis of the cooling segment: Increasing the radiator thickness support for 1 mm to 24 mm could add a good, all copper(!), very compact radiator, readily available from multiple sellers on Aliexpress...smallformfactor.netCheck the stiffness at the intermediate position. It seems vulnerable to load or external pressure. I suggest reinforcing the upper and lower rails to H shape and connecting them to the mainboard frame. BTW This is what I want itsmallformfactor.net
What do you think about this?
I'm afraid there will be a problem when sliding this part into the Unibody.
Bending under weight can cause friction with the unibody.
It is suggested that the left and right rails be connected to the bridge in the form of H.
Then make a vertical bar in the center of it, and attach it to the back of the main board bolts that are connected to the spine.
And I would like to propose that the rails be molded into a simple 'c' structure to gain more stiffness.
(On the link above, there is a picture that is so made.)
It turns out that the 240mm AIO is useless (Alex posted the data).
Therefore, there will be no problem with adding a pillar that supports the rail to the center.
I have a question about how to fix the graphics card.
The case "velka 3" is made of a gpu bracket with no bolts.
How about mjolnir modify it the same way?
It would be uncomfortable to release the riser card and the front of the core.
However, I think we can expect more minimal and solid fixation.
What do you think, guys?
Those plastic bits on the corners that allow Mjolnir to slide smoothly. Is it possible to stick a small piece on the center point of each rail? Then even if the cables push the rails out you can still kind-of squeeze them back in as you're inserting the core and once it's halfway inserted it will glide on the plastic pieces without scraping. Maybe I'm over complicating something that doesn't need to be. It's just a thought. I'll definitely be making custom cabling personally.The rails will bow out if there is a lot of pressure one them, this happened to me when I maxed out MJOLNIR (AIO, etc) and didn't manage cables correctly. Since everything is so tightly packed there's no room to do H-shaped rails unfortunately. Custom cables will definitely help A LOT ? The bottom rails can bow out 2mm without causing friction to the Shell. Still, once the Core is inserted into the Shell you'll never see anything strange...this is certainly better than cases where the outside panels bow out.
The rails will bow out if there is a lot of pressure one them, this happened to me when I maxed out MJOLNIR (AIO, etc) and didn't manage cables correctly. Since everything is so tightly packed there's no room to do H-shaped rails unfortunately. Custom cables will definitely help A LOT ? The bottom rails can bow out 2mm without causing friction to the Shell. Still, once the Core is inserted into the Shell you'll never see anything strange...this is certainly better than cases where the outside panels bow out.
If you out a brace below the PCB adapter for the GPU/"above" the motherboard, you'll block fitment for 120mm fans.
I'm working out how to create custom cables for the Mjolnir ATM. Is it possible to get the following two measurements? It would really help me plan this out.
Red: The total distance between the PSU and the bottom rail.
Orange: The distance between the PSU and the side panel.
Bonus question: Outside diameter of AIO tube?
Double points: With inverted PSU, mm between the PSU and top rail?
Thank you for answering any of these!
No one copied it.Someone already working on cloning it.....
EDIT: Out of interest in avoiding a debate over the ethicality of cloning, let's not drown this thread in clone-related posts.