Power Supply Looking for small size 160W AC-DC PSU suggestions...

[n13L5]

I need a silent system for audio recording / editing with a strong CPU to go with that.

Does anyone know a small 160W AC-DC PSU, that's shaped differently from the HDPLEX unit?

HDPLEX 16W AC-DC PSU is:
52 mm wide
144 mm long
40 mm tall.

Everything would be fine if it was 37-38 mm tall instead.

It could be longer by another 20 mm no problem, but its gotta be less tall and it can't be wider either.


The (hopefully still) incoming S4 Skyreach will be anything but quiet and so I ordered that $225 H1.SODD case from HDPLEX, along with the 160W AC-DC PSU and the separate 160W DC-ATX unit.


Now I'm finding that the 160W AC-DC PSU from HDPLEX doesn't fit in their own case under the ODD - by all of 2 mm.

HDPLEX is suggesting to use the 80W AC-DC with the 160W DC-ATX.. but that couldn't run an i7-9700K with SSD and enough RAM and a bunch of external USB devices reliably. And that thing must be bullet-proof-reliable... There's no tolerance for the system flunking out while recording...

I had a Streacom case here, where the PSU would have fit easily, but their mechanical disk eject button doesn't actually work for my brand new, slot-loading TEAC BluRay burner- unlike the electronic mechanism HDPLEX uses, which works brilliantly.



Any suggestions for alternative small PSUs that would provide at least 120W or more would be much appreciated !

 

[Windfall]

Meanwell EPP series

 

[Thehack]

Meanwell EPP series

Slight update, they have been replaced by the RPS series.

 

[n13L5]

I haven't found any model from the Meanwell EPP series that had a 19V output - actually nothing between 16V and 24V, which is the input range of the HDPLEX 160W DC-ATX PSU

The Vendor I found for Meanwell EPP did have a TEAC / Lamda power supply with 150W with a 19V output - but its a new product and its available only in 22 weeks!

 

[n13L5]

Slight update, they have been replaced by the RPS series.

Thanks for the update - I'll run a search with "Meanwell RPS" instead...

The Teac units I found had just the right measurements and specs, but not available for almost half a year
I could buy a Dell Laptop brick and remove it from its plastic box, fold up a little aluminium box for it instead...

 

[Thehack]

Thanks for the update - I'll run a search with "Meanwell RPS" instead...

The Teac units I found had just the right measurements and specs, but not available for almost half a year
I could buy a Dell Laptop brick and remove it from its plastic box, fold up a little aluminium box for it instead...

You want to look for Meanwell RPS-200-24. If you are looking for high quality meanwell external units, I recommend the GST series of external unit. Though you'd have to make your own connector.

 

[n13L5]

You want to look for Meanwell RPS-200-24. If you are looking for high quality meanwell external units, I recommend the GST series of external unit. Though you'd have to make your own connector.

Thanks again!

I'd prefer internal - was planning to install a little selector switch, so I can externally plug in either 19V DC or 230V AC, but only one will actually connect at a time, in case some imbecile plugged in both at the same time. If I must temporarily go with an external unit, I can just use the power brick from my Razer laptop, which I should actually sell on ebay before it becomes totally worthless, coming to think of it...


What I realized about the very nicely fabricated HDPLEX H1 is, that they are basically too large and heavy for the equipment it can fit and cool, when compared to fanless industrial computer enclosures. Those guys use more but smaller fins and have no disclaimers about 95W TDP being the maximum, "but 65W would be better"

It does look nicer standing about in the house, I suppose - you don't have to hide it by strapping it behind 4K TV you use as a computer monitor (and you couldn't, because its too damned heavy).

Its small enough to fit with the SFF theme here, but the weight... haha

 

[Thehack]

Thanks again!

I'd prefer internal - was planning to install a little selector switch, so I can externally plug in either 19V DC or 230V AC, but only one will actually connect at a time, in case some imbecile plugged in both at the same time. If I must temporarily go with an external unit, I can just use the power brick from my Razer laptop, which I should actually sell on ebay before it becomes totally worthless, coming to think of it...


What I realized about the very nicely fabricated HDPLEX H1 is, that they are basically too large and heavy for the equipment it can fit and cool, when compared to fanless industrial computer enclosures. Those guys use more but smaller fins and have no disclaimers about 95W TDP being the maximum, "but 65W would be better"

It does look nicer standing about in the house, I suppose - you don't have to hide it by strapping it behind 4K TV you use as a computer monitor (and you couldn't, because its too damned heavy).

Its small enough to fit with the SFF theme here, but the weight... haha

If you're okay with dusting it every once in a while, you can get a much smaller case by using active cooling. The main purpose of passive cooling is maintenance free and noise. However, in a HTPC environment, at 10 feet away most builds would be inaudible.

 

[n13L5]

https://www.jameco.com/Jameco/Products/ProdDS/2250345.pdf
Its small and cheap - 40 Euros

I wonder why there's so many extra components in the HDPLEX - it could have cleaner output, I surmise.


At any rate, this will fit, if the measurements given on Jameco's online shop are actually correct. (10.2cm x 5.1cm x 2.9cm)
I'd even have room for a metal deflector to prevent it from cooking my ODD, when it has to work under load.
They claim 94% efficiency!

200W gives some headroom, where it shouldn't break too much of a sweat

I'll install an i7-9700k, a Z390 ASRock mainboard, 32GB RAM and a 1TB Sandisk Extreme NVME M.2 SSD, 1 Teac Blu-Ray burner
and an external La Cie 5TB storage drive, that won't be hooked up while I record or edit audio.


Devices, power draw should probably remain below 160W, would you agree?

 

[Thehack]

https://www.jameco.com/Jameco/Products/ProdDS/2250345.pdf
Its small and cheap - 40 Euros

I wonder why there's so many extra components in the HDPLEX - it could have cleaner output, I surmise.


At any rate, this will fit, if the measurements given on Jameco's online shop are actually correct. (10.2cm x 5.1cm x 2.9cm)
I'd even have room for a metal deflector to prevent it from cooking my ODD, when it has to work under load.
They claim 94% efficiency!

200W gives some headroom, where it shouldn't break too much of a sweat

I'll install an i7-9700k, a Z390 ASRock mainboard, 32GB RAM and a 1TB Sandisk Extreme NVME M.2 SSD, 1 Teac Blu-Ray burner
and an external La Cie 5TB storage drive, that won't be hooked up while I record or edit audio.


Devices, power draw should probably remain below 130W, would you agree?

It is missing some connectors that you'd have to make. It'll work just fine for 9700K. Make sure it is mounted in a way that doesn't short anything.

 

[n13L5]

It is missing some connectors that you'd have to make. It'll work just fine for 9700K. Make sure it is mounted in a way that doesn't short anything.

LOL Yeah, I went to electronics school...

I think I'll use an L-shaped copper sheet to attach to the existing heat sinks and attaching that to the floor of the case - with a 1mm Plexiglass sheet as an insulator above the copper sheet, below the circuit board - that way I can get the thing cooled better with the help of the rather beefy aluminum base plate, but prevent any shorts. Depending on what the side looks like, I might have to use another plexiglass sheet to separate the PSU from the front of the case, but we'll see, as that side is not visible in the images.

As for the connectors, yeah, those don't look like they'd plug into the HDPLEX 160W DC-ATX unit, but I wanted to route separate AC and DC inputs through an either-or switch anyway, so I'll just solder the cables to an extra little circuit board that holds the switch and makes the right connections.

It'll be a tight squeeze to get an AC and a DC connector into the rear left corner, cause it was only designed for either or, not both...

.

Edit, I made a drawing, but apparently, I can't upload images from my drive to post on the forum...