Production Gallon PC v3: 3D printable 3.17-3.78L gaming case

[ZMan]

Hey ZMan, my friend printed the case last time I wrote here but since I have no budget to build it didn't post the photos. I just peel off the uncessary plastics on the edges, however the quality seems subpar. I don't know much about 3D printing maybe his printer is not that top quality and also he forgot to write precisely some of the vents. How can I carve those vents? Anyway, here are some photos;

For carving the vents you can use any pointy blade.
Your CPU side panel seems to be printed with "Support type: Everywhere". What you see in the vent holes is "support material". It is meant to be chipped away. I've designed both cover panels to be printed with "Support type: Touching build plate" or without support.
The whole print seems to be a bit over-extruded. I guess you will have issues with the "piano hinge" that connects the cover panels to the skeleton.
I do not see on the pictures provided, the elements from bits.stl file. You will need them to mount the computer parts to the skeleton.
Let me know if you have ant additional questions.

 

[craigbru]

Not knowing much about 3d printing, I'd say that your friend did not set the print quality high enough, lacks resolution or accuracy with his machine/filament or had issues with the plastic not setting up while laying it down. @craigbru?

For carving the vents you can use any pointy blade.
Your CPU side panel seems to be printed with "Support type: Everywhere". What you see in the vent holes is "support material". It is meant to be chipped away. I've designed both cover panels to be printed with "Support type: Touching build plate" or without support.
The whole print seems to be a bit over-extruded. I guess you will have issues with the "piano hinge" that connects the cover panels to the skeleton.
I do not see on the pictures provided, the elements from bits.stl file. You will need them to mount the computer parts to the skeleton.
Let me know if you have ant additional questions.

There are definitely some issues with machine accuracy there. Whether strictly mechanical or byproduct of print speed, it's a little hard to say. I do agree that it looks to be overextruded. It would really help to know what this was printed on, and what settings were used. If I had to guess from what I see here, probably a sub $300 Chinese printer. No knocks against that in particular, it's just much harder to get clean prints without a lot of extra tweaking or money spent on better parts. Bowden I assume? I'd say retraction definitely needs adjustment as well.

 

[ondert]

I don't know anything about his printer, it is the same printer that filmed during the green inner frame writing. Btw, it is PLA.

 

[Jovogdiar]

Either his printer is bad, either his printer is terribly calibrated, either he does not know how to print, either he didn't care about the quality because he wasn't printing it for himself and just wanted it done quickly. If someone had asked me to print something for them, I would have been ashamed to give them something that looks like this. I would not trust this with computer components to be honest. It looks like it would break easily.

 

[Jovogdiar]

I don't know anything about his printer, it is the same printer that filmed during the green inner frame writing. Btw, it is PLA.

Oh. Haha. I looked at the video before I saw the yellow case and thought "This is one hell of a crummy print." The lines are so far apart that you can see clear through the first layer. The printer doesn't look like it's very high quality, but it doesn't seem like it's very well calibrated either.

 

[ondert]

Alright then, what do you say now? I ordered the case to be printed via 3dhubs.com from a local printing service. It costs me 62€ including shipping.
This time as material Generic Standard ABS was used and layer height is 200 µm. Printer models are Makergear M2 and Original Prusa i3 MK2S.
Here are some screenshots;

 

[ZMan]

Alright then, what do you say now? I ordered the case to be printed via 3dhubs.com from a local printing service. It costs me 62€ including shipping.
This time as material Generic Standard ABS was used and layer height is 200 µm. Printer models are Makergear M2 and Original Prusa i3 MK2S.

This print is definitely better. Not perfect though.
On the last image some whiskers are visible in the vent holes. Also it looks like the piano-hinge will need some filing in order to work smoothly.

 

[ondert]

Thanks, actually parts fit nicely together. I just put them aside without anything to hold them together, so it seems that way. Also, ZMan can you write me how to assemble the case? I didn't see the instructions along the files and I saw you cancelled your patreon page. I'm sad that it didn't get enough attention.

 

[ZMan]

Assembly instruction video will be best, and I will make one some day.
Meanwhile lets try text step-by-step:

I. Check the prerequisites:
Main component requirements:
1. Video card should be maximum 2.5 slot wide and 175 mm (6.8") long, otherwise case modification will be required. E.g.:
http://www.gigabyte.us/Graphics-Card/GV-N1080IX-8GD
2. Motherboard should be mini-ITX with M.2 slot.
3. CPU cooler should not be more than 30mm high, otherwise case modification will be required. E.g.:
http://amzn.com/dp/B00DKTOZTU
4. CPU Maximum of 65W TDP, due to small CPU cooler. Otherwise thermal throttling might lead to inconsistent game performance.
5. FlexATX PSU 150mm in length. E.g.:
http://amzn.com/dp/B014G2OUG2

Additional components needed for case assembly:
1. Screws
- 6 Main board fixed screws (M3 x 5)
- 5 Hard drive screw (M3.5 x 5)
- 1 Chassis hand twist screw (M3.5 x 5)
A kit like this should be good:
http://amzn.com/dp/B01I4SOVDG
2. 25cm (10") PCIe 16x extender
e.g. http://amzn.com/dp/B01NH0GW7Z
3. Tiny buttons and wires:
http://amzn.com/dp/B073DYSRZ4
4. A PC speaker:
http://amzn.com/dp/B01DM56TFY

II. Assembly:
WARNING: PCIe extender cables are delicate. NEVER fold it at the soldering point between the board and the cable. It will stop working. all folds should be at least 1 cm (half inch) away from the solder point. Use pencil to fold the cable around.
1. Attach the PCIe extender to the video card.
2. Test fit the assembly to the "skeleton" (the print with the large rectangular hole in it). Some of the holes one the slot end of the cable should line-up with the skeleton stand-offs.
3. Detach the PCIe extender.
4. Fold the PCIe cable. Mind the Warning above.
5. Thread it through the rectangular hole on the skeleton.
6. Secure the PCIe cable with screws to the skeleton integrated stand-offs.
7. Install the Video card.

8. Attach the skeleton PSU holder parts. Those are the two biggest of the small prints. The larger one goes where the PC ports are. Mind the notches. Screw holes should align.
9. Pre-assemble the CPU section. Prepare CPU cooler. Install CPU on the MB. Thermal grease. Install CPU cooler. Install RAM. Install the m.2 drive.
10. Put the skeleton on the working surface with the Video card facing down.
11. All 4 motherboard stand-offs should be inserted and twisted 90 degrees clock-wise.
12. Install the CPU-Motherboard assembly. Secure with screws.
13. Install the PSU. Back PSU holder holes will show orientation.
14. Decide where the excess PSU cable should be tackled in. There should be enough space between the PSU and Video AND next to the PSU on the CPU side.

15. Install the GPU cover and secure it in place with 2 screws to the PSU and to the skeleton.
16. Install the tiny buttons in to the CPU cover AND insert the button covers. Connect the cables to the motherboard. Connect the PC speaker to the motherboard.
17. Get a peace of round cable. 15 cm (6 in) long, 1 mm diameter.
18. Test-fit the CPU cover. Rotate it 90 degrees around the piano-hinge axis. An access point for the hinge core should be visible.
19. Insert the cable in the hinge core. All 15 cm of it.
20. Close the cover and secure with 2 screws to the skeleton and PSU.
21. Leave feedback about your experience during assembly.

 

[Duality92]

I wouldn't recommend anything PLA for parts that can be exposed to prolonged heat that have weight stress on them. I have a bracket for a 3D printer, made from PLA, to hold my radiator, fans and pump-reservoir combo and now that I'm printing exclusively ABS, I get the printers chamber to 45C and it has warped insanely. PLA is good for 60C usually and ABS is 80C, I'd recommend at least printing a case like this out of ABS. (this is just from my experience btw.)

With that said, I've been designing my own case to print too for quite a bit

 

[Dooooofy]

As far as Power supplies go, would an HDPlex 400w work? I’m not too sure about getting the power supply you linked

 

[ZMan]

As far as Power supplies go, would an HDPlex 400w work? I’m not too sure about getting the power supply you linked

HDPlex 400W will not work in this case. The FlexATX PSU is an integral part of the case. It gives rigidity(it holds the sides together) and stability(lowers the center of mass) to the structure.
The FSP400-60FGGBA FlexATX PSU I linked is working perfectly for me for 19 months already. It is used on a daily basis in my prototypes for stress tests and gaming(mostly.

 

[wesbl]

What's the maximum height possible for ram? Is it possible to fit gskill ripjaws?

 

[ZMan]

What's the maximum height possible for ram? Is it possible to fit gskill ripjaws?

v1 can handle 43mm RAM height, so yes
v2 can handle 38mm
There is a v3 in the works. It should be able to handle 45mm RAM modules.​

 

[wesbl]

v1 can handle 43mm RAM height, so yes
v2 can handle 38mm
There is a v3 in the works. It should be able to handle 45mm RAM modules.​

What online service can I use for printing this case? I live in Italy, thanks.
Really great Project.

EDIT
I've seen you are working on a new version...
Will you provide support for a 43mm CPU Cooler? I have a Cooltek LP53 with a 15mm noctua fan and is the best low profile solution that i know.
Will you provide support for G-Unique Archdemon? I have an Ultra slim socket:

It could be nice a version with a switch hole, maybe where is the gap in the bottom of GPU bracket, like the DSE Breathe (look the white switch on top of ROG logo):

What do you think about it?

 

[ZMan]

What online service can I use for printing this case? I live in Italy, thanks.

I am not familiar with the Italian market, but you can chose one from here:
https://www.3dhubs.com/3d-printing/location/italy/
Still I will recommend buying a 3D printer:
https://www.gearbest.com/3d-printer-_gear/
or if I have to recommend a brand:
https://www.creality3donline.com/
Just make sure it has at least 250x250x250mm build volume.

Really great Project.

Thanks

EDIT
I've seen you are working on a new version...
Will you provide support for a 43mm CPU Cooler? I have a Cooltek LP53 with a 15mm noctua fan and is the best low profile solution that i know.

No. That will add to much volume. Noctua NH-L9... will be the maximum. (37mm)

Will you provide support for G-Unique Archdemon?

Yes.

It could be nice a version with a switch hole, maybe where is the gap in the bottom of GPU bracket, like the DSE Breathe (look the white switch on top of ROG logo):

What do you think about it?

Power and Reset buttons will be in front. With integrated LEDs for HDD and POWER. As a proper PC case should be.
Let's leave the hidden buttons to the sheet metal cases, where you can not play with custom forms that easy.
On the other hand it is a 3D model. You can just edit it to your liking before printing.

 

[wesbl]

Thanks for the answers!
Do you think you can give a preview of V3 to your patreon supporters?
I could buy a 3d printer but I have 500/600 euro maximum budget, which printer do you recommend ? I would prefer something linux compatible

 

[ZMan]

Thanks for the answers!
Do you think you can give a preview of V3 for your patreom supporters?

We 'll see.

I could buy a 3d printer but I have 500/600 euro maximum budget, which printer do you recommend ? I would prefer something linux compatible

I have Creality CR-10. It currently cost about 300 EUR. Check youtube reviews. That should help you make your choice.
As for compatibility - do not worry. The 3D printers are still so stupid, there is no way to limit them to a OS. 'cos they have no drivers.

 

[wesbl]

Have you tried to install a cpu cooler with fan on exhaust? Have you noticed any improvement on temperatures?
I think could be the best optimized airflow setup, fresh intake air from gpu side and hot exhaust air from cpu side...I think those holes on the "skeleton" help the airflow from the two sides, right? Perfect design IMHO!

 

[ZMan]

Have you tried to install a cpu cooler with fan on exhaust?

No. The CPU cooling I have Zalman CNPS2X, can not work in reverse. v3 will have space for NH-L9...

Have you noticed any improvement on temperatures?
I think could be the best optimized airflow setup, fresh intake air from gpu side and hot exhaust air from cpu side...

Nope - think of the other hot things around the CPU, like VRM, NVMe etc. They need cooling too. And the outside air is cooler.

I think those holes on the "skeleton" help the airflow from the two sides, right?

Role of the holes = The back of the MB needs some cooling too. + Less material + Faster printing.
The two sides are basically isolated because of the MB. There are 3 isolated airways in this design - CPU side, GPU side and PSU.

Perfect design IMHO!

Thanks again!