FYI the Barrow block is about 2mm too large even with the smallest available fittings
Personally I'm waiting for dimensions on the new 3080 cards to see which pump solution is possible.
FYI the Barrow block is about 2mm too large even with the smallest available fittings
Personally I'm waiting for dimensions on the new 3080 cards to see which pump solution is possible.
btw. guys. If I put glass panels from both sides will it harm the airflow somehow (probably yes)? Given that it will be fully water-cooled, will it help if I put a small single fan (or two) at the bottom of the case so it can take some cool air and blow it to the top where the radiator will push the hot air out?
I recently pre-ordered the higflow next 2, so I was thinking it will be super nice to see the stats and also see the beautiful aquarium in the inside of the case.
I recently pre-ordered the higflow next 2, so I was thinking it will be super nice to see the stats and also see the beautiful aquarium in the inside of the case.
I wouldn't advise this. The mesh side panels are key to this case's ventilation and really defeat the purpose of buying the case if you're gonna close it off with glass. Fans on the bottom simply won't make up for it because the pathway for the air from the bottom is
1. choked because of the tiny gap from the short feet
2. blocked by all sorts of stuff inside the case including the GPU and PSU
The Winter One probably suits your goals more
Second what @Ashenfall said! If you really want glass, I'd suggest one side glass for the side facing you so the other side can be mesh. Better than both sides glass!
Do you guys think deshrouding the 3090 and putting 3x 92mm or 2x 120mm exhausting through the sidemesh will enable okayish temps/noise? Perhaps undervolting it a bit too?
Or will water the only way to go? I'm basing my opinion on my experience with the ncase + undervolted 2080ti + 2x a12x25 exhausting at the bottom.
Or will water the only way to go? I'm basing my opinion on my experience with the ncase + undervolted 2080ti + 2x a12x25 exhausting at the bottom.
oh god... why did you have to ask that, i guarantee someones gonna start talking about time machines and crystal balls again. No one knows how the card will perform, or its full dimensions or its thermal capabilities. i have a suspicion the reference card will not work in the T1 but thats an assumption. As far as deshrounding the card (again this is just my assumption) but due to the reference cards design i dont think that deshrouding will be possible, or at least not in the same way it is with other cards, the heat sink and fin arrangement is completely different
Naaa I give up. You people can speculate all you want. It's a stupid gpu, it's not going to cure cancer or make the world a better place. The performance gains won't make much difference to your gaming. Realistically you will barely take the card into second gear until more powerful games come out.
I am running a 1080ti and the only reason why I would upgrade right now is because because my friend is getting the T1 for 3d and video rendering projects until he can build his own system. He's happy with what I lent him.
Stop looking over the horizon for the next best thing or you can't appreciate what you have now.
That advice only comes with age.
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I just sold my MSI gxt 1080TI x trio because I'm going to upgrade to the 3080/90 or hopefully AMD.
I am going to need that power to drive a HP Reverb G2 on 4k ultra with 90fps.
If you know any card that can do that on RDR2 for example right now I'm all ears
These new cards are only the first batch of real 4k gaming cards.
i think its important to remember what your computer is used for as well, i mainly play games like csgo at 1440p 165hz, im using a 5700xt, a 3090 would be completely overkill. Sure if you want to play the newest titles at 4k then look for the best stuff, however esports titles at 1080p dont need the most expensive cards.
Exactly. My friend is saving up for dual titans which when combined with all the watercooling parts will make it stupid expensive and powerful but will speed up his workflow which is key.
I just need to get something that will drive 1440p at 165Hz better than my 980 tbh. I don't think I'd get the 3090 or even the 3080 since prices seem way too jacked up.
Exactly this. I'm waiting out to see how well these RTX 3000 perform with crytomining, if they are good then I may consider them. Given Nvidia's track record though in crypto, AMD is likely still better which is why I'll stick with my Radeon VII build for my T1. Which is perfect for my multimedia work and seldom gaming @1440p , which it has zero issues (Build thread coming soon once I get all my parts). 4K is likely still not realistic, even if the 3090 performs 20-30% better, there are some games where it'll never go beyond 100fps which puts most gaming monitor refresh rates to waste. People don't realize how much faster GPUs need to be to render 4K games at a high framerate while maintaining visual quality.
I have them for years. It's the 207271 from Dynavox. https://www.dynavox-audio.de/produk...eraete-fuesse-mini-4er-set-schwarzsilber.html
Welp, hope rgb will do the thing and will expose some sexy key components. Thanks for the advise. By the amount of dust on the sides of the PC it's clearly visible how much those breathable panels are needed for the pc. Still waiting for the all the watercooling parts, so I can assemble the final build.
Thanks, they look good under the case.
Did you forget the Io shield or did you leave it off for cooling purposes?
Hey guys, just a warning. Don't buy these magnets. https://www.ebay.com/itm/M00880-MOR...4x3-mm-Neodymium-Disk-Round-Mini/201683745008
Edit: they’ve updated the listing with the correct depth now (and a little shoutout to the FormD community ?)
They are only 2.75mm in depth and end up coming short of the frame. Didn't realize it'd be an issue until after I glued them in. They are very strong on direct touch, but ended up having practically no grip on the side panels due to the gap. Measure with a caliper first before glueing and don't assume like me!
Edit: they’ve updated the listing with the correct depth now (and a little shoutout to the FormD community ?)
They are only 2.75mm in depth and end up coming short of the frame. Didn't realize it'd be an issue until after I glued them in. They are very strong on direct touch, but ended up having practically no grip on the side panels due to the gap. Measure with a caliper first before glueing and don't assume like me!
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Hey guys, just a warning. Don't buy these magnets. https://www.ebay.com/itm/M00880-MOR...4x3-mm-Neodymium-Disk-Round-Mini/201683745008
They are only 2.75mm in depth and end up coming short of the frame. Didn't realize it'd be an issue until after I glued them in. They are very strong on direct touch, but ended up having practically no grip on the side panels due to the gap. Measure with a caliper first before glueing and don't assume like me!
I'd take the whole back plate off to save your components, and carefully use a heat gun in that area. That should ideally allow you to get that magnet out without too much hassle.
Yeah... magnetic force falls off as R^4, so it doesn't take much distance to lose a lot of the attraction. I typically default to K&J magnetics as a supplier, their measurements have always been highly accurate; also you can select the different strengths in addition to sizes.
Edit: the ones you linked are also only N35, I'd recommend N42 at a minimum and probably N52 if you want a really strong hold.
solvent and a flat head screwdriver to try and pry it out? or is that bad idea. alternatively find some thin metal to put on top?Hey guys, just a warning. Don't buy these magnets. https://www.ebay.com/itm/M00880-MOR...4x3-mm-Neodymium-Disk-Round-Mini/201683745008
They are only 2.75mm in depth and end up coming short of the frame. Didn't realize it'd be an issue until after I glued them in. They are very strong on direct touch, but ended up having practically no grip on the side panels due to the gap. Measure with a caliper first before glueing and don't assume like me!
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