Unfortunately not, the port threads aren't cut right/print right...right now I can't thread any fitting in without applying a TON of force, which apparently should not be done with the resin this is printed with as it's brittle and may crack. So I definitely need a 2nd iteration. I need to redesign a bit anyway as this prototype has made some collision issues and installation issues evident... But the pump is a 10 watt alphacool DDC310, so it's pretty quiet even on 100%
For anyone using the magiccube...I'm at a loss.. with my stop fitting on top, it doesn't fit in the case, either colliding with the T frame at the front of the case or the GPU block (1080ti founders). Are there lower profile fittings around?
What connectors is it attached to the rad with? I needs to sit so that the stop fitting sits next to the T frame, not behind it.
I'm using a dual rotary 90. The trouble I'd run into offsetting it further to clear the T frame is that it'd stick out the side of the case, right? Unless I'm missing something super obvious..
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Maybe Maybe, NO ALPHACOOL???
And Betwenn the GPU and the PSU you can see an Intel 905p connected to the back NVME SSD!
I am baffled... Titan RTX is the same length as 1080 ti founders and yet I don't have the clearance for the stop fitting like @fabio does...Truly an enigma...
Photo sensitive resin used in prints like this is pretty toxic stuff. Id be careful introducing anything from that into the loop.
Depending on where it was printed, they'll typically thoroughly solvent clean and rinse the resulting part. I wouldn't be particularly worried about the resulting loop.
Solvent cleaning just removes uncured resin from the outer surface it doesnt change its composition. This material itself is TOXIC AF itll strip the varnish off a wood surface or anodizing off an aluminum frame in seconds uncured. Cured its just a solidified block of the same material so running water through it non stop is not going to be nice.
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Hmm.. I guess that depends on where the ports on your rad are - I'm using a GTS240 with a barrow offset rotary --> EK dual 45 rotary.
That just clears the T-frame.
I just have the original "unoptimized" version. Gible98 on reddit is a freaking CAD wizard and added nifty little details and changes, like offsetting the plane where the outlet exits to accommodate taller fittings, and an internal channel to direct air to an air exhaust location. I'll make a thingiverse and put mine there after I've made the tweaks to improve ease of installation and resolve the collision issues. I'll have to see if gible98 will share his STL.
Also I'm gonna post up my front cover shells...and still working on the alternative top/bottom panels.
Since I do mount my builds under my table and my old bracket kind of limited airflow, I decided to build my own using the Clear Premium MakerBeam Starter Kit. This a kit full of 10x10 aluminium profiles to build anything you need (mostly used for 3D printing I think). It keeps the T1 secured under my table with the option to slide in and out whenever I want to work on it. The PC has exactly 10cm above to exhaust hot air with the Noctua fans, which is enough to keep it cool.
Maybe we're thinking of different materials, but in general curing (cross-linking, crystallization, etc) does change a materials composition and toxicity. A solidified resin is most likely going to be non-toxic unless dissolved. I mean, probably avoid drinking any fluid you put through a loop, or snorting a line of powdered resin in general, but otherwise cured resin products are pretty safe all things considered.
Are the Koolance 90 degree fittings shorter than the Alphacool TPV 90 degree rotaries?
EDIT: just looked it up and the HF Compression fitting is rated at 18 mm high compared to the 20mm of the Koolance meaning it may *JUST* fit in the likes of the FormD T1 since OT showed the Barrow sitting at 72mm with the Koolance fittings which would make it exactly 70mm on the CPU/Motherboard he was using in the video.
And we're up and running (despite encountering my first leak ever... from the fill port on the cpu block of all places).
Part A: rotated CPU block w/ ultra short tubes; note that if ASRock had a temperature header on the motherboard, then I'd be using a temp probe stop fitting on the fill port instead-
Part B: 120mm fan cooling motherboard while in 3-slot GPU config-
and then I failed Part C, which was trying to push the radiator close enough to the back so that I could use a 90-degree fitting on the Coolworld fill port (placing a fill port at the top/front of the case). I can make this work if I opt to remove the wifi/bluetooth card (which would also make the tubing easier to fit), but not sure if having access to that port matters that much to me since the one on the cpu block works well enough.
My biggest issue at the moment is that my pump has been dying for a while now (or I think it's dying), to where I have to tap on it to get it up and running sometimes, so I can't really firm-up the fan mount until the Aurora LT Solo becomes available. Beyond that- just need to firm-up the PSU mount and possibly get some shorter cables/do cable management, and I should have a pretty clean build.
edit- played new world (uncapped) for 45 mins before making the change/after: fan at 1250rpm results in 12c drop on motherboard, 18c drop on PCH, and 20c drop on ssd.
Part A: rotated CPU block w/ ultra short tubes; note that if ASRock had a temperature header on the motherboard, then I'd be using a temp probe stop fitting on the fill port instead-
Part B: 120mm fan cooling motherboard while in 3-slot GPU config-
and then I failed Part C, which was trying to push the radiator close enough to the back so that I could use a 90-degree fitting on the Coolworld fill port (placing a fill port at the top/front of the case). I can make this work if I opt to remove the wifi/bluetooth card (which would also make the tubing easier to fit), but not sure if having access to that port matters that much to me since the one on the cpu block works well enough.
My biggest issue at the moment is that my pump has been dying for a while now (or I think it's dying), to where I have to tap on it to get it up and running sometimes, so I can't really firm-up the fan mount until the Aurora LT Solo becomes available. Beyond that- just need to firm-up the PSU mount and possibly get some shorter cables/do cable management, and I should have a pretty clean build.
edit- played new world (uncapped) for 45 mins before making the change/after: fan at 1250rpm results in 12c drop on motherboard, 18c drop on PCH, and 20c drop on ssd.
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Which fittings did you use of the lt solo here? looks like your solution may work on my x570 strix if i am lucky as every time i look at it i think i am going to have to go another route for waterblock and pump.
(not that i have been able to get a damn case yet though!)
Cheers.
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