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Fitting a full size GTX 750 Ti into a Streacom F7C
- Thread starter aquelito
- Start date
Thanks a lot for your input Marc. I'll continue here.
I was thinking of two solutions to implement a GTX 970 in that case :
1. Air Cooling
- Use a bent alu sheet to create two separate air flows : one dedicated to the GPU (80 mm fan exhaust), one for the CPU & PSU (92 mm intake).
- Lower GTX 970 max TDP to around 100W to lower heat dissipation.
2. Water cooling
- I would like to keep all parts internally.
- Enclosed a first proposal, based on an Alphacool radiator with a single 80 mm. A triple 40 mm fan would fit as well. I do not know if it is enough to cool even a "diminished" 970.
- Red & blue strips symbolize the water circuit, using rigid 13 mm aluminium tubes. The 56 mm high reservoir won't fit though. I would need something smaller.
What do you think ?
I was thinking of two solutions to implement a GTX 970 in that case :
1. Air Cooling
- Use a bent alu sheet to create two separate air flows : one dedicated to the GPU (80 mm fan exhaust), one for the CPU & PSU (92 mm intake).
- Lower GTX 970 max TDP to around 100W to lower heat dissipation.
2. Water cooling
- I would like to keep all parts internally.
- Enclosed a first proposal, based on an Alphacool radiator with a single 80 mm. A triple 40 mm fan would fit as well. I do not know if it is enough to cool even a "diminished" 970.
- Red & blue strips symbolize the water circuit, using rigid 13 mm aluminium tubes. The 56 mm high reservoir won't fit though. I would need something smaller.
What do you think ?
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I like both, but watercooling seems like it could potentially be more effective. How are you going to use the display output ports on the first configuration? The fan at the back seems to block them all.
Ahah you did not miss that point !
The air cooling option is exactly the same as the current one, expect I added L-shaped alu pieces across the case to support the heavier 970.
Only a 10 mm thick fan fits though.
In the water cooling option, I have to move the GPU closer to this fan, due to the 45 mm radiator depth. That is why I featured a 60 mm fan only.
The i3 6100 does not require lots of air I guess, but it is not the case of the HDPLEX...
Between a single 80 mm radiator, a double 60 mm, or a triple 40 mm, what would you choose, according to these results ?
http://www.watercooled.ch/alphacool-nexxxos-xt45-full-copper-40mm-radiator-review/
Would you advise to even advise to put a 970 in that case ?
I am using it for 3D renderings, which are quite demanding. A GTX 960 could also work but it is only 40% faster than a 750 Ti, while twice the price ! Only a GTX 970 would be worth the upgrade...
The air cooling option is exactly the same as the current one, expect I added L-shaped alu pieces across the case to support the heavier 970.
Only a 10 mm thick fan fits though.
In the water cooling option, I have to move the GPU closer to this fan, due to the 45 mm radiator depth. That is why I featured a 60 mm fan only.
The i3 6100 does not require lots of air I guess, but it is not the case of the HDPLEX...
Between a single 80 mm radiator, a double 60 mm, or a triple 40 mm, what would you choose, according to these results ?
http://www.watercooled.ch/alphacool-nexxxos-xt45-full-copper-40mm-radiator-review/
Would you advise to even advise to put a 970 in that case ?
I am using it for 3D renderings, which are quite demanding. A GTX 960 could also work but it is only 40% faster than a 750 Ti, while twice the price ! Only a GTX 970 would be worth the upgrade...
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If you go for a quiet rig, definitely go single 80mm.
I mean, just for the challenge of it, that seems like an awesome thing to do. If a 970 is worthwhile in the long run is something you've got to decide based on the time it will save you. If you get the maximum heat output down to 100W, will it still be as useful as it is at 145W?
I mean, just for the challenge of it, that seems like an awesome thing to do. If a 970 is worthwhile in the long run is something you've got to decide based on the time it will save you. If you get the maximum heat output down to 100W, will it still be as useful as it is at 145W?
Do you have a link explaining the whole maintenance process ?
I did a quick case study, just to get a rough idea of how things would have to be fitted.
I had to move the HDPLEX board further away from the 92 mm fan, where the radiator would be.
To do that, I had to build a new aluminium bracket for the DC board.
As it was expected, only a 1U heatsink could fit, due to the prominent DC-In plug on the PSU (overhanging).
That's why I replaced the Noctua LH-9i by the Gelid Slim Silence (slight rattle sound coming from the tiny fan...).
BTW, I am now able to route all the cables behind the DC board. Looks much better that way.
Sleeving cables would add too much bulk, which is the last thing I need here !
The low profile USB3 20Pin cable from moddiy is great !
It might be just enough to fit a 41 mm deep radiator + 10 mm fan. It would have to be place just next to the 4Pin CPU connector though. The 3M riser would have to be moved elsewhere...
In conclusion, having a single 80mm radiator might be possible, but a double 60mm radiator would be a safer bet.
I did a quick case study, just to get a rough idea of how things would have to be fitted.
I had to move the HDPLEX board further away from the 92 mm fan, where the radiator would be.
To do that, I had to build a new aluminium bracket for the DC board.
As it was expected, only a 1U heatsink could fit, due to the prominent DC-In plug on the PSU (overhanging).
That's why I replaced the Noctua LH-9i by the Gelid Slim Silence (slight rattle sound coming from the tiny fan...).
BTW, I am now able to route all the cables behind the DC board. Looks much better that way.
Sleeving cables would add too much bulk, which is the last thing I need here !
The low profile USB3 20Pin cable from moddiy is great !
It might be just enough to fit a 41 mm deep radiator + 10 mm fan. It would have to be place just next to the 4Pin CPU connector though. The 3M riser would have to be moved elsewhere...
In conclusion, having a single 80mm radiator might be possible, but a double 60mm radiator would be a safer bet.
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The three ribbons (in fact each ribbon is doubled) all together measure between 5 and 6 mm. However, when routed below the mobo, the 3 ribbons must remain separated to keep the whole thing the thinnest possible.
This is a great piece of hardware : very easy to work with, while it remains very rigid once bent as wished.
Very expensive indeed but it has not equivalent when it comes to "complex" cables routes like mine.
Probably not worth the investment if your layout is more straight forward.
Maintenance is quite simple : you need to purge and refill your system every year...
What fan are you planning to use?
I plan to use a 80 x 10mm push fan in case of a single radiator.
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Thank you!
So I guess this thinnest possible thickness is around 1.5 to 2mm. Not as thin as I'd hoped.
So I guess this thinnest possible thickness is around 1.5 to 2mm. Not as thin as I'd hoped.
Sorry aqueltio, using 80x10mm on radiator is a non sense.
To be honest with you, your proposal is a dead end...you will spend time and money for a dead end...
I can just recommend to go to s4 mini, smaller case than f7c, with far better cooling capacity than f7c.
To be honest with you, your proposal is a dead end...you will spend time and money for a dead end...
I can just recommend to go to s4 mini, smaller case than f7c, with far better cooling capacity than f7c.
To be honest with you, your proposal is a dead end...you will spend time and money for a dead end...
I think it will work out fine, but watercooling probably isn't worth it, that's true.
Yes, 150€ just for the rad and block, that's more than the S4 mini... Too much of an investment
I'll try a 970 as soon as the prices go down (or a 1070) and if it is a no go, I'll sell the Streacom and go with a S4.
I'll try a 970 as soon as the prices go down (or a 1070
) and if it is a no go, I'll sell the Streacom and go with a S4.
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Some new developments here.
I never really gave up on the watercooling angle.
Indeed I happened to purchase for $27 a brand new Asetek 565LX, which is a double 92 mm AIO.
This little guy was the only kit that could work with my case : slim enough to be placed in the free space between the side panel and the mobo, and of course the only 92 mm AIO kit available (if you're lucky enough to find it).
The Streacom case merely allows 45 mm clearance between the mobo and side panel : no margin for error here.
Few weeks after I found a brand new Asus GTX 970 Mini discounted at the right price (285 € mid-july).
To watercool the GTX 970, I had to solve three issues :
- Issue #1 : I had to drill extra holes into my side panel, to accommodate a dual fan configuration. I asked Streacom for the holes pattern, printed it on tracing paper and used it to mark the holes.
Original holes have a 4 mm diameter ; my drill allows 3 mm drill bit tops....
Visually it is not that bad.
- Issue #2 : Given the the top panel of the Streacom has rounded edges, I couldn't use standard slim 92 mm fans (mounted as intake).
Their frame would have been too high.
Only possible solution use 92 mm without frame. That's why I purchased Arctic Accelero Twin Turbo replacement fans for 4 € or so. SPC review claims they are quite (which is true).
I spent a couple of hours removing most of the massive shroud, allowing to close the case !!
The fans are plugged into the 4pin connector of the GTX 970 (one cable for two fans).
Issue #3 : the Asetek kit had to be fitted onto the GTX 970. Well known issue but very few elegant solutions available.
The Kraken G10 is very expensive for what you get and would have needed a mod to fit that tiny GTX 970.
That's why I decided to make my own front plate, made of 3 mm aluminum.
This front plate allows me to fix the cold plate to the GPU and cool the memory at the same time.
And it works (sorry for the shitty pictures) !! Picobox X7 500 in the background. First time I used it.
HOWEVER
Temps are really bad. They were around 50° at idle in open air ; did not even tried Engine Valley for more than 5 seconds (temps reached 85°).
I couldn't screw the cold plate tight enough due to a missing element (glue for aluminum) but it seemed tight enough to me...
Here is a picture of the die "print" on the cold plate. Seems good to you ?
Next step :
modifying the existing structure supporting the curent 750 Ti and close the case !
I never really gave up on the watercooling angle.
Indeed I happened to purchase for $27 a brand new Asetek 565LX, which is a double 92 mm AIO.
This little guy was the only kit that could work with my case : slim enough to be placed in the free space between the side panel and the mobo, and of course the only 92 mm AIO kit available (if you're lucky enough to find it).
The Streacom case merely allows 45 mm clearance between the mobo and side panel : no margin for error here.
Few weeks after I found a brand new Asus GTX 970 Mini discounted at the right price (285 € mid-july).
To watercool the GTX 970, I had to solve three issues :
- Issue #1 : I had to drill extra holes into my side panel, to accommodate a dual fan configuration. I asked Streacom for the holes pattern, printed it on tracing paper and used it to mark the holes.
Original holes have a 4 mm diameter ; my drill allows 3 mm drill bit tops....
Visually it is not that bad.
- Issue #2 : Given the the top panel of the Streacom has rounded edges, I couldn't use standard slim 92 mm fans (mounted as intake).
Their frame would have been too high.
Only possible solution use 92 mm without frame. That's why I purchased Arctic Accelero Twin Turbo replacement fans for 4 € or so. SPC review claims they are quite (which is true).
I spent a couple of hours removing most of the massive shroud, allowing to close the case !!
The fans are plugged into the 4pin connector of the GTX 970 (one cable for two fans).
Issue #3 : the Asetek kit had to be fitted onto the GTX 970. Well known issue but very few elegant solutions available.
The Kraken G10 is very expensive for what you get and would have needed a mod to fit that tiny GTX 970.
That's why I decided to make my own front plate, made of 3 mm aluminum.
This front plate allows me to fix the cold plate to the GPU and cool the memory at the same time.
And it works (sorry for the shitty pictures) !! Picobox X7 500 in the background. First time I used it.
HOWEVER
Temps are really bad. They were around 50° at idle in open air ; did not even tried Engine Valley for more than 5 seconds (temps reached 85°).
I couldn't screw the cold plate tight enough due to a missing element (glue for aluminum) but it seemed tight enough to me...
Here is a picture of the die "print" on the cold plate. Seems good to you ?
Next step :
modifying the existing structure supporting the curent 750 Ti and close the case !
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Hi Marc
Thanks for your comment.
Yes I tried the kit and ran the pump by itself : it seemed to be perfectly working, emetting a faint high pitched noise. I could hear the liquid circulating in the pipes too.
However, as I was saying, I couldn't screw the cold plate tight enough. It was a first test : I did not glue the female screws to the front plate, female screws to which is screwed the cold plate.
Now I know it works, I will glue them with epoxy to the front plate and will be able to tighten the cold plate.
This is my main (and only) lead for improvement.
I was afraid I made a mistake when calculating the thickness of the front plate. But the picture shows the contact between the cold plate and the GPU Die is ok ?
What do you think, according to the thermal paste pattern ?
Thanks for your comment.
Yes I tried the kit and ran the pump by itself : it seemed to be perfectly working, emetting a faint high pitched noise. I could hear the liquid circulating in the pipes too.
However, as I was saying, I couldn't screw the cold plate tight enough. It was a first test : I did not glue the female screws to the front plate, female screws to which is screwed the cold plate.
Now I know it works, I will glue them with epoxy to the front plate and will be able to tighten the cold plate.
This is my main (and only) lead for improvement.
I was afraid I made a mistake when calculating the thickness of the front plate. But the picture shows the contact between the cold plate and the GPU Die is ok ?
What do you think, according to the thermal paste pattern ?
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Looking at the paste, it seems like contact isn't perfect. On the Asetek cooler you can see two corners of the GPU quite nicely, but the other two have not been perfectly filled. So I suspect that there's a minimal amount of distance between the two, resulting in the abhorrent cooling performance you experienced. Either that or the cooler is broken in some way. 50° at idle is absolutely not normal for a radiator this size.
What you could also try is replace the Accelero fans with shrouded ones (for now). Depending on the density of the fins, it could be the the path of least resistance for the air is not through the cooler, but around it, though I don't really think that could be the case.
What you could also try is replace the Accelero fans with shrouded ones (for now). Depending on the density of the fins, it could be the the path of least resistance for the air is not through the cooler, but around it, though I don't really think that could be the case.
Your photos shows you have enough contact, that's clear.
Clearly if you couldn't tight screw, it could be the issue.
Good point from ifreilight. If the fan doesn't have shroud, airflow is lost around the fan. Before gluing, make another trial with fan with shroud..
Clearly if you couldn't tight screw, it could be the issue.
Good point from ifreilight. If the fan doesn't have shroud, airflow is lost around the fan. Before gluing, make another trial with fan with shroud..
