Fitting a full size GTX 750 Ti into a Streacom F7C

aquelito

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Feb 16, 2016
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UPDATE : build finished
Some pictures : http://s305.photobucket.com/user/hagoun/library/Streacom FC7

Hi there,

As my title does suggest, my project is to fit a full size GTX 750 Ti into a Streacom F7C.

- Mobo : MSI B150I GAMING PRO AC
- RAM : Crucial DDR4 2 x 4 PC4-17000 CL15
- CPU : i3 6100
- Heatsink : Noctua NH-L9i
- GPU : Gigabyte GTX 750 Ti + Zalman VF900-Cu
- PSU : HDPLEX 250W

As low profile single slot GTX 750 Ti do not exist, using a PCIe riser is mandatory.

This is ribbon I will use for my project : Liheat Type A.

My initial idea was to use MSI's 750 Ti Low profile.
However, the Liheat riser being unpowered, it can only feed a 30W TDP GPU.
I may have given the 750 Ti LP a shot (since TDP is limited to 38.5W into the bios) but I am pretty sure it wouldn't have worked out so well.

Hence, I returned the 750 Ti LP and purchased a Gigabyte 750 Ti instead, which is the most compact 6Pin-equiped GTX 750 Ti.
The GPU itself indeed is pretty compact.

Enclosed some pictures of the current 3D study of my build :





As you can see, I chose to replace the original heatsink by a Zalman VF-900CU I had laying around.
I know from Overclock.net that it will fit.

Everything was looking good in my first drawings.
However, after having updated today the Liheat riser model with real values (thanks iFreilicht), even with a reduced heatsink and a compact GPU, it is going to be a very tight fit...

There is no more than 1 mm clearance between the GPU cooler and the top of the DDR4 DIMM modules.

Hence my first question :

Is it a good idea to replace the current DDR4 memory by DDR3 memory very low profile, like Crucial CL9 Ballistix Sport VLP (and buy a cheap H110 mono supporting DDR3) ?
I am pretty sure my GPU will fit but I give up on DDR4...
 
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jtd871

SFF Guru
Jun 22, 2015
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Crucial lists VLP DDR4 sticks on their website. The 8GB version is ~USD80, according to the site.
 

aquelito

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Feb 16, 2016
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Thanks for the info.

I just checked and these are designed for servers. And are indeed more than twice more expensive than VLP DDR3 DIMMS...
I am not sure I am going to take advantage of it...
 

janas19

SFF Lingo Aficionado
Feb 9, 2016
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The VLP dimms will open up a bit more space and allow air to circulate better. But you already have a GPU that's facing down in your case, so it's not going to help with the heat all that much. I guess just try and run everything as-is and check your temps? If the temps are reasonable no point in getting new memory.
 

aquelito

King of Cable Management
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Feb 16, 2016
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Thanks for your reply.

What do you mean by the GPU facing down ?

This is the only possible way to fit a full sized GPU but it also maximizes clearance between the GPU fan and the case. It also draws fresh air from holes on the bottom panel.
I will also fit a 80mm in front of the GPU to extract hot air and isolate GPU/CPU channels.

3D views to follow

However, I am not worried by temps ; this is the clearance between the GPU heatsink and the DIMMS that worries me !
In my 3D study GPU fits over the DIMMS (which are low profile Kingston) with absolutely no error margin possible.

I have to increase that clearance as much as possible ; VLP DIMMS are the only possible solution.
And DDR4 VLP is way too expensive...
 

iFreilicht

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Feb 28, 2015
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There are multiple ways you could fit that GPU in there. For example, you use the stock heatsink on the GPU without any fans, place it directly above the CPU cooler and reverse the CPU fans direction to blow into the GPU. That way, you can have the GPU I/O at the back of the case and have the largest possible heatsinks on both CPU and GPU.

Another way would be to choose a smaller CPU cooler, like the Zalman CNPS2X. That way you could place the GPU above the mainboard and have its fan facing upwards. That would require you to cut vents in the top of the case, though.

About the ribbon: If you want to reduce the amount of space needed, you can just go for a B-Type and fold it in over itself, that way you only need about 4mm of space behind the back of the GPU. Alternatively you could also route that cable below the motherboard if there's enough space there.
 

aquelito

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Feb 16, 2016
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For example, you use the stock heatsink on the GPU without any fans, place it directly above the CPU cooler and reverse the CPU fans direction to blow into the GPU.
.

Only one 92 mm fan to cool both an i3 and a 750 Ti ?

Another way would be to choose a smaller CPU cooler, like the Zalman CNPS2X. That way you could place the GPU above the mainboard and have its fan facing upwards. That would require you to cut vents in the top of the case, though.

Yes I though of that. Only possible coolers are the Zalman and the Gelid Slim Silence, only 28 mm tall. However :
- They are quite expensive
- Reviews are pretty mixed regarding their respective performances/noise ratios (not too good due to the 1U size).

My PC will be dedicated to AutoCAD, Rhino... and I expect one day to move to an i5 or i7. Small heatsinks won't cut it, or at the expense of noise levels.

About the ribbon: If you want to reduce the amount of space needed, you can just go for a B-Type and fold it in over itself, that way you only need about 4mm of space behind the back of the GPU. Alternatively you could also route that cable below the motherboard if there's enough space there.

Speaking of which I just received the Liheat ribbon yesterday. It looks great but it is not flexible enough to suit my needs.
Space is just too tight for such a stiff ribbon.

The whole point of my project was indeed to place my GPU in the vacant space in front of the case. Liheat ribbon cannot fold the way I want, or at least not on such short lengths.
I have no choice but to use a foldable ribbon, which means 3M...

I have an other question regarding the PSU cables : is this dangerous for the Mobo to have both the 24 Pin and 4 Pin cables running below the motherboard ?
They are unsleeved:

 

iFreilicht

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Feb 28, 2015
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The whole point of my project was indeed to place my GPU in the vacant space in front of the case. Liheat ribbon cannot fold the way I want, or at least not on such short lengths.
I have no choice but to use a foldable ribbon, which means 3M...

You can fold it, but you have to do it very hard. It feels a bit like you're breaking it, but it will still work, no problem.

Here's how I folded it to get 12mm of lateral offset for Brevis S (sorry for the absolutely atrocious quality):




I have an other question regarding the PSU cables : is this dangerous for the Mobo to have both the 24 Pin and 4 Pin cables running below the motherboard ?

Depends on how much space there is. I'd want to have 6mm + cable thickness in order to sleep well, but it's possible with less. You have to watch out for through-hole pins, those can pierce the insulation of the cable.
 

aquelito

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You can fold it, but you have to do it very hard. It feels a bit like you're breaking it, but it will still work, no problem.

Depends on how much space there is. I'd want to have 6mm + cable thickness in order to sleep well, but it's possible with less. You have to watch out for through-hole pins, those can pierce the insulation of the cable.

Thank you very much for taking the pictures but Liheat riser is a definitely a no-go for my case... The needed offset is way too important for such a short length.
3M it will be. :/

Regarding the 24pin cable, I have only 6 mm clearance between the back of the mobo PCB and the bottom panel (6 mm is spacers standard height I suppose).
I may try to use that kind of spiral binding to protect the wires. No risk of short circuit, besides the possible sheath tears ?



You can flip the GPU so the fan faces up and runs externally:

http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?p=28449250

Ahah thanks, this is exactly what I had in mind for an other build (kind of "granny box").
Antec ISK 110 with a R7 250 on a 1.5 U riser card :
 

Phuncz

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May 9, 2015
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"Granny box" with a low-end GPU ? Why not just an APU ? You could even go mSTX and a form factor lower with a decent Intel Skylake CPU.

The spiral binding you show seems like stiff paper page binding, you want the flexible cable wrap:


I would personally use sleeving (MDPC-X preferably) while bundling 4 wires per sleeve ("SATA sleeve") at a time to keep it flexible, thin and manageable. Preferably trim the wires to the correct length. This is all a lot of work but to build really tight cases, I feel it's one of the more important things to do when the case has been finished and the build must begin.
 

aquelito

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Feb 16, 2016
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"Granny box" with a low-end GPU ? Why not just an APU ? You could even go mSTX and a form factor lower with a decent Intel Skylake CPU.
A "granny box" with some gaming possibilities ! An A8 7600 could be an other solution but a single slot low profile R7 250 still allows better performances.

I would personally use sleeving (MDPC-X preferably) while bundling 4 wires per sleeve ("SATA sleeve") at a time to keep it flexible, thin and manageable. Preferably trim the wires to the correct length. This is all a lot of work but to build really tight cases, I feel it's one of the more important things to do when the case has been finished and the build must begin.
Lots of time indeed ! Not ready to go down this route but it would look nice for sure. I could use sleeved ATX cable extensions but they are quite expensive, and I remember reading HDPLEX ATX cables have a design of their own.
Not ready to mess with cables !


Some other views of the project.
The HDPLEX PSU is placed in direct airflow ; it will help maintain efficiency and durability !
I could also place it under the GPU.

What do you think is best ?



 
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CC Ricers

Shrink Ray Wielder
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Nov 1, 2015
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Seems like there is too much unused space for the case below the GPU. I would move the HD-PLEX PSU to that empty spot. It would still get air flow from one of the case fans, while leaving more intake room for the CPU cooler.

With additional room on top, you could even upgrade that CPU cooler to a Prolimatech Samuel 17 with a 120mm Sleek Vortex fan. Remove the 750 Ti's stock cooler and that should be good enough to cool both the i3 and 750 Ti.
 

aquelito

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Hi there,

Thanks for the interest.

Build is complete and running well - quite well ventilated ! I was just waiting for some new HDMI extension and enxtra 80 mm exhaust fan to show the complete log.

@CC Ricers :

My 3D views do not show the 24pin atx cable, front-panel USB cables, sata cables... which are running in the front area, and take up a lot of volume !
When you take all those cables into consideration, the only possible place for the PSU is on top of the IO shield.

Compared to the 3D views, I ended up turning the PSU at 90°and place it just on top of the IO shield (parallel to the case panel, not perpendicular).
It is not only the only possible position, but also the best one as the PSU is cooled by the intake 92 mm. It does not affect CPU cooler clearance.
BTW Streacom recommends to place this fan as exhaust. Temps are MUCH better when placed as intake.

Last point regarding the PSU : in such cramped spaces, best is to try having independant "modules", which means you can remove one without removing the others.
In my build, I was lucky enough to have the GPU, PSU, CPU and SSD (almost) all independant from each other.
This is much easier maintenance wise.

Again, I will post pictures of the complete build at the end of the weel.
 
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aquelito

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Some pictures : http://s305.photobucket.com/user/hagoun/library/Streacom FC7

Hardware list :

- Streacom FC7
- i3 6100
- Asus H110I D3
- 2 x 4 Go Crucial Ballistix VLP DDR3 1600 (1.35v)
- Noctua NH-L9i
- Gigabyte 750 Ti OC w/ Zalman VF1000 LED @ 5V
- 3M PCIe x 16 riser 500 mm
- Noctua NF-A9x14 PWM (intake) + Scythe 80 x 10 mm (exhaust)
- HP HSTNN-DA12 230W

Temps :

- Idle : CPU 28 / GPU > 28
- Load : CPU (did no test yet) / GPU > 48 (68 fanless)

This is the tiniest build I worked on, and possibly the most silent one ! (used to have ATX and MicroATX Lian-Li cases).

Main rule was : no alteration of any kind to the case.
I used L and U-shaped aluminium pieces, screwed to the case using existing threaded holes.

Both U-shaped pieces were used for the PSU and the GPU. They also allow me to properly route most of the PSU cables, SATA and fan cables.
The L-shaped piece is screwed to the bottom of the case using the original fan holes, supporting both the SSD and the 92 mm intake fan.

I added a thin 80 mm Scythe fan (from a Kozuti I had around), as exhaust.

The ATX, molex and 8 pin cables have been routed around the CPU cooler, on top of the very low profile RAM.
That way they do not interfere with the airflow and offer a kind of "screen" between the CPU fan and the GPU fan.

Speaking of which, I used a Zaman VF1000 to cool my 750 ti. Really a great product, fits great in the case, and offering a great performance/noise ratio when undervolted at 5V.
I tried to run the GPU fanless and reached a temperature of 68° (vs 46° with the fan at 5V) after 30 minutes of GPU-intensive 3D rendering using Otoy Octane Render.
No too bad, I might consider keeping it fanless and have the 80 mm Scythe fan blowing on it.

The three PWM fans did not ramp up at all. Really enjoyed the silence.

The 3M riser is the one piece of hardware which made this build possible. It is very expensive, almost the price of the 750 Ti itself, but finally well worth the price considered it has no equivalent.
It runs below the motherboard ; the 3 independant ribbons keep the whole riser quite flexible and were bent to avoid blocking both the intake and CPU fans.

The HDPLEX 250W unit is coupled with an HP 230W AC Adapter. Both do not heat and seem very sturdy.
AC input PCB is screwed to the rear bracket. Only possible solution here ; I wish I could have kept both HDMI outputs...

Just a word about HDPLEX, which support lives up to its legend.
My unit had one capacitor showing slight damages but was still 100% functional.
Larry from HDPLEX just sent me a new one without asking any questions, allowing me to keep the first one.
Best support ever !

The black ribbon you see is the HDMI cable, which also saved this build ! Purchased for $14 on Aliexpress. Way cheaper than other available options.

Last thing to do :

The large USB 3.0 20 Pin cable cannot be connected to the mobo due to the GPU cooler. I purchased a low profile extension from moddiy.com to solve the issue.
 
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Ceros_X

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Mar 8, 2016
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Nice!

I am also using one of the flat FPC HDMI cavles, but I got mine off Amazon for about the same price. Has worked awesome so far, can be beat.
 

aquelito

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Feb 16, 2016
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@Cerox

Thanks !

These ribbons allow me to have two HDMI outputs on the rear bracket - which was not planned. One on them is currently occupied by the PSU barrel connector.
I'll try to move the PSU further on the left to be able to use the original barrel location and have my two HDMI outputs :)

Considering the intake and exhaust fans, do you think I could have a GTX 970 in this case ?
 

fminus

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May 14, 2016
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Couldn't you have used the FC8 Fanless...same dimensions but no cpu cooler...giving you more space for a GPU?
 

aquelito

King of Cable Management
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Feb 16, 2016
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Yes, that was the initial plan.

However, as I'm using this build for renderings, I needed a capable GPU. Which means active cooling was mandatory and fanless CPU a bit pointless (someone tried a R7 250 inside a FC8 and it was noisy and too hot).

I settled for a 750 Ti at first, which tops at 48° at load.
I may try a GTX 970 or 1070 given I have some margin both in terms of power and temperature.