Quick question. I was considering adding a couple of extra magnetic lead strips on the bottom of the case. This may be obvious to you, but if I install them outside of the case, how I am supposed to connect them to the mobo?
there isn't a large enough opening in the bottom panel for cable connector to pass through, but you can always DIY with a plier like below. After a few twists and turns you can easily snap off the steel bits.Quick question. I was considering adding a couple of extra magnetic lead strips on the bottom of the case. This may be obvious to you, but if I install them outside of the case, how I am supposed to connect them to the mobo?
Sounds like a pain in the rear in to use pliers. For anyone who's doing mod work, I'd recommend a nibbler.there isn't a large enough opening in the bottom panel for cable connector to pass through, but you can always DIY with a plier like below. After a few twists and turns you can easily snap off the steel bits.
plier sounds harder than it actually is. the NR200 steel construction is very solid and the first bend may take a bit of force, but after that the steel gives way pretty quicklySounds like a pain in the rear in to use pliers. For anyone who's doing mod work, I'd recommend a nibbler.
And a pair of pliers is more readily available in one's home.plier sounds harder than it actually is. the NR200 steel construction is very solid and the first bend may take a bit of force, but after that the steel gives way pretty quickly
hmm don't have a file on hand, what I'll do is use the same plier to kinda fold those tips back so they don't point out in any direction. cheers!And a pair of pliers is more readily available in one's home.
BTW, I would also use a steel file to smooth out those rough edges near the 2 rad inlet/outlet. Those sharp edges could draw first blood easily.
does the black one have a different color (matte) vs the white one (glossy)? Or are my eyes playing a trick on me?
And is the black one more prone to fingerprints?
Always upvote those who are not afraid to cut up their case! I pretty much did that to the S610 case from Sliger, but in the front. Once everything is put together there is no way I can use my sausage fingers to tighen the fittings on the bottom rad.there isn't a large enough opening in the bottom panel for cable connector to pass through, but you can always DIY with a plier like below. After a few twists and turns you can easily snap off the steel bits.
I sent you a shameless link on a private msg ... a case just like the NR200 (a tad smaller) exists, it's the Sliger S620, it's a mix of steel and aluminum (smooth fine matte finish but powder coated). It does have IMO better finish then the shiny white NR200, and panels/chassis are not as heavy as the NR200. Both the NR200 and S620 are awesome ... a bit too large for me, I went down to the S610I would gladly throw $200+ at a case that has the same functions / size / capabilities of NR200, but except made in Anodized Aluminium instead of steel
Ah, the mini Cerberus cases, those are pretty nice-looking. They did seem to appear a bit out of the blue and never seemed to get much attention, but they do look pretty nice.I sent you a shameless link on a private msg ... a case just like the NR200 (a tad smaller) exists, it's the Sliger S620, it's a mix of steel and aluminum (smooth fine matte finish but powder coated). It does have IMO better finish then the shiny white NR200, and panels/chassis are not as heavy as the NR200. Both the NR200 and S620 are awesome ... a bit too large for me, I went down to the S610
So, maybe the NCase????? It is not perfectly fit, indeed the NR200 has more nice touches, but imho, M1 is still a decent optionI would gladly throw $200+ at a case that has the same functions / size / capabilities of NR200, but except made in Anodized Aluminium instead of steel
The Dan C4 should fit that bill nicely. A bit smaller, but the same features.I would gladly throw $200+ at a case that has the same functions / size / capabilities of NR200, but except made in Anodized Aluminium instead of steel
So, maybe the NCase????? It is not perfectly fit, indeed the NR200 has more nice touches, but imho, M1 is still a decent option
nah. I dont like the design and has worse GPU compatibility. Also trying not to go smaller than N case.The Dan C4 should fit that bill nicely. A bit smaller, but the same features.
The SFF market is warming up right now with mainstream manufacturers jumping in. Really hope that we can get other "NR200P killers" in near futureyea thats what im using now. Going to upgrade to NR200 if it releases a nicer version.
I guess my ordeal wasn't done. After a few days running normally, the auto-reboot issue returned but this time the boot LED got stuck on RAM a lot more. After a lot of trial and error I ended up with running the RAM in default. The moment I turn on DOCP in Bios, it will auto-reboot like hell. At this point not sure if the RAM has became bad or it's still a motherboard issue. Other than that everything working perfectly.
So I decided to hell with XMP and fully built the loop on a couple of days ago. And She LIVES!
My loop order is pump -> gpu -> cpu -> top rad -> side rad -> bottom rad -> pump. As expected, flow rate sucks balls with all the adapter and I have to run the pump at 3500RPM to get decent flow rate. I have Water Out sensor for water coming out of the cpu block and Water In sensor for water coming in to the pump after the 3 rads. At 3500RPM pump, the delta of Water Out - Water In is only 3-4C, if I slow the pump down to 2000-2500RPM this delta balloons to 6-7C
In terms of temps the GPU is the biggest beneficiaries - idling at 36 (ambient 30C) and never got above 60C even at full power and full load. I had to learn how to use MSI Afterburner since AMD Adrenalin spoilt me for so long - 6 years of GPUs from 290X-RX480-Vega64-5700XT. Though one thing that disappointed me somewhat is the CPU temps & performance vs. single EK 240 AIO in open bench. In Cinebench R23 with the loop my sustained all cores clock is about 250Mhz lower than with the EK AIO at max pump & fan RPMs in both setups. Guess that is to be expected since the GPU is now in the loop and the GPU feeds and the coolant coming out of the pump (33C) makes a stop at the GPU first and gets much warmer.
In theory, under large enough load and over long enough period of time, the temps of the entire loop equalises but this has not been the case for mine. The Water In temp remains very stable 32-33C, whilst the Water Out temp reaches 52C max. Should I change the loop order to get 1-2 rad in between the GPU & CPU instead? Also now I see why in large loop like this (1) D5 is preferred over DDC - much better flow rate for quieter operation; and (2) dual loop exists to separate the heat source. Both of which are very hard to achieve with SFF