Probably, just had to get the retention bracket on fast in order to check if the holes even matched lol.I think it should be assembled like this, no ?
Probably, just had to get the retention bracket on fast in order to check if the holes even matched lol.I think it should be assembled like this, no ?
Thank you for your reply.It looks like @Arqiboy's block just had the four counter-sunk holes in one half of the block were drilled 180º from the proper orientation. The closer ones should be on the pump cavity, while the more separated pair should be on the in/outlet side.
Bizarre QC/manufacturing issue—I guess we get a little peek inside the production/machining process!
As for the o-ring/gasket: It definitely helps to put the retention plate on, and then lay the o-ring into the channel that it creates. I had some trouble here, as I totally missed the retention plate the first time around!
For CNC process, each block is manually flipped over for milling on each side. The issues you had is due to orientation of the block (no symmetry). So far we only had a couple with this issue (sorry you are the unlucky one), error rate is < 1%.Thank you for your reply.
They offered me a replacement block top and bottom. Very thankful they sorted it out so fast.
I had a hard time processing why the holes wouldn’t align and completely ruled out human error as I thought these were produced on an assembly line by machines lol.
Curiously, when everyone was assembling their aquanaut, did they screw the acrylic pieces down enough so they are touching or have people left a gap between them?
I'm worried about over tightening them and breaking my block again but also worried they might not be tight enough.
Be careful with screwing the sandwich block. Aquanaut is basically a water block with distro plate in between. You should be familiar with this if you have played with distro plates before. ?When I tightened it down, I noticed that I'd get a bit of a bend in the two halves such that the middle still had a slight gap, but the plates were touching near the outer ends (/near the screws), I turned it back a little bit so the tiny gap looked more evenly distributed (but it was still pretty thight, mind you!).
Be careful with screwing the sandwich block. Aquanaut is basically a water block with distro plate in between. You should be familiar with this if you have played with distro plates before. ?
It's easy to find out. You just need to tighten it enough not to leak, right? So just tighten it to the least amount, test for water leak. If there is no leak, there is no need to tighten any more.I didn't know that I should have played with distro plates before getting your product!
I got one of these from pslate for the Apogee Drive II in my Ghost and worked well, you can specify the length and you only have 1 molex connector.Hi All,
I have a silly and noob question... First time building a SFF PC with custom WC so have a lot of questions.
Before purchasing the Aquanaut,
1_ I was trying to find a low profile cable 6pin PCIe>Molex femelle to plug the ddc pump to the PSU, but impossible to find one. Does anyone know where I can find one ???
I know that cable Im looking for come with the PSU but its too long for a SFF PC and have 3 header when I only need 1.
Or maybe is it better to get rid of the molex connector and rewire directly to PCIe ? Any Tutorial ?? Is it easy to do ?
2_ For the DDC pump, seems everyone advise to take Laing DDC 3.2 PWM, but is here any better option ? (ex: Laing DDC-1T PWM?)
PS: Considering the price, why all pump are not sleeved ??
Sorry for all those questions but Im on the process to learn ?
Thx
Hi All,
I have a silly and noob question... First time building a SFF PC with custom WC so have a lot of questions.
Before purchasing the Aquanaut,
1_ I was trying to find a low profile cable 6pin PCIe>Molex femelle to plug the ddc pump to the PSU, but impossible to find one. Does anyone know where I can find one ???
I know that cable Im looking for come with the PSU but its too long for a SFF PC and have 3 header when I only need 1.
Or maybe is it better to get rid of the molex connector and rewire directly to PCIe ? Any Tutorial ?? Is it easy to do ?
2_ For the DDC pump, seems everyone advise to take Laing DDC 3.2 PWM, but is here any better option ? (ex: Laing DDC-1T PWM?)
PS: Considering the price, why all pump are not sleeved ??
Sorry for all those questions but Im on the process to learn ?
Thx
Hm, it sounds to me like you're mistaking the PSU-side power connector for a PCIe power connector. These are not the same. They might use similar connector housings (depends on your PSU - all PSU makers use different plugs) but more likely than not they have entirely different pinouts, and they are likely keyed differently so that they don't actually fit into each other (if they did, that would potentially be dangerous). If that's what you're searching for it's no wonder you're not finding anything, as @August mentioned above such adapters would be rare at best. The simple solution: take the molex chain that came with your PSU and cut off what you don't need. Clean cuts (no copper sticking out from the insulation! Use sharp scissors or a decent pair of side snips) and seal the ends of each wire individually with heatshrink or electrical tape. Leave enough wire to seal them off, but not too much so that it causes a mess. The advanced/expensive solution: buy a custom cable as mentioned above. There's also of course the option of buying a crimp tool and making your own custom cable, but that's rather overkill for a single cable.Hi All,
I have a silly and noob question... First time building a SFF PC with custom WC so have a lot of questions.
Before purchasing the Aquanaut,
1_ I was trying to find a low profile cable 6pin PCIe>Molex femelle to plug the ddc pump to the PSU, but impossible to find one. Does anyone know where I can find one ???
I know that cable Im looking for come with the PSU but its too long for a SFF PC and have 3 header when I only need 1.
Or maybe is it better to get rid of the molex connector and rewire directly to PCIe ? Any Tutorial ?? Is it easy to do ?
2_ For the DDC pump, seems everyone advise to take Laing DDC 3.2 PWM, but is here any better option ? (ex: Laing DDC-1T PWM?)
PS: Considering the price, why all pump are not sleeved ??
Sorry for all those questions but Im on the process to learn ?
Thx