A300-M(ax): A watercooled sandwich style a300M build!

Curiosity

SFF>Speed
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Apr 30, 2016
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Thanks for the suggestion!

I was actually considering something similar for a while, then started thinking an alphacool eisbaer lt solo was the answer. Eventually though, I determined that I do want this build to look pretty nice, and decided on the supremacy Evo you can see further up the thread. It ends up being about the same height as an eisbaer while looking a whole heck of a lot better. :)

That swiftech apogee 1u would likely be shorter though.
 

sancho

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Sep 20, 2019
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Thanks for the suggestion!

I was actually considering something similar for a while, then started thinking an alphacool eisbaer lt solo was the answer. Eventually though, I determined that I do want this build to look pretty nice, and decided on the supremacy Evo you can see further up the thread. It ends up being about the same height as an eisbaer while looking a whole heck of a lot better. :)

That swiftech apogee 1u would likely be shorter though.
cooler master
 

petricor

SFF Lingo Aficionado
May 12, 2018
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Weird but cool, not sure if it's just my 1060 cooperating or if this is normal, but my 1060 6gb is perfectly happy to run on the riser with the 5v line snipped.


So at least for my 1060 it seems like I can get away with only running 12V power to the GPU, fantastic.
Pretty impressive. BTW - what's that screen you're using?
 

Curiosity

SFF>Speed
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@petricor thanks. :) It's an iPad 3 lcd panel with an abusemark edp→dp adapter board. Uses mini b for power and full-size DP for video in. Though I'm considering swapping the board for a newer version USB C adapter so I can put OEM iPad glass on it again. Right now the DP connector sits slightly higher than the edge of the case.
Also the a300 doesn't play nice with it, so unless I have my 1060 plugged in I can't use it. 😢

@sancho I'm sorry friend, I'm not sure what you're getting at.
 
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sancho

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Sep 20, 2019
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@petricor thanks. :) It's an iPad 3 lcd panel with an abusemark edp→dp adapter board. Uses mini b for power and full-size DP for video in. Though I'm considering swapping the board for a newer version USB C adapter so I can put OEM iPad glass on it again. Right now the DP connector sits slightly higher than the edge of the case.
Also the a300 doesn't play nice with it, so unless I have my 1060 plugged in I can't use it. 😢

@sancho I'm sorry friend, I'm not sure what you're getting at.
this coolermaster water block
 

Curiosity

SFF>Speed
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Ah alright. I just failed to locate it on their website so when you linked their homepage I was confused.

Looked harder, looks like it's the block from the masterliquid maker 92?
 

sancho

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Sep 20, 2019
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Ah alright. I just failed to locate it on their website so when you linked their homepage I was confused.

Looked harder, looks like it's the block from the masterliquid maker 92?
MasterLiquid Maker 92
a very compact pump can be removed from this system and used in the project
 

Curiosity

SFF>Speed
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Update:
Got a 140mm fan extension/ shround and new version of the mobo plate printed, as well as a 'single slot gpu' standin. The shroud is just a stand in for a fan until I actually get one.

I made my standoffs a little too thin, but that's not a major issue, it served it's purpose to mock up the layout.


I need to tweak the geometry of the mobo plate where the rad attaches to not obstruct airflow, and actually include mounting arms to mount the riser with.
Also determine the location of the rear io.

For hardware I still need a pump, some 90° fittings and tubing. Also maybe to mod my 1060 to have a 2060fe style power connector.
 
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Curiosity

SFF>Speed
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Update: watercooling parts came in and I was able to mock them up on my first mockup spine print.


Almost everything lines up the way

I expected and hoped, however I realize I forgot the fittings to facilitate filling and draining in my order, lol. So I'll need to order some more fittings to facilitate that when I can. Also, the geometry of the pump top causes issues I didn't forsee, so I'll need to figure out the placement for that exactly before I place another order for fittings. Right now I'm thinking I might just mount it against the radiator since (currently, at least) I don't need any of the space in front of the rad for the GPU.

Next steps:
Figure out pump placement
After that figure out the fill/ drain plumbing
Print another spine with holes in the correct places + re test fit
If everything fits correctly, order 5mm aluminum plate and start machining it to be the spine, front and rear of the case. (Inspired by @Da_Korn 's build using 5mm alu)
 
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Valantar

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Jan 20, 2018
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Following this, really like the build. Hope you can squeeze in the pump somewhere. Also love your use of 3D printing for prototyping, don't think I've seen that done this thoroughly before - that MeanWell print is impressively detailed. Perhaps a bit late now given that you already have most of the fittings, but I was wondering if using thinner tubing might make fitting this a bit easier? Shouldn't be too much of a restriction given the tiny loop. Also, with the radiator mount in your previous post it looks like there should be room above (below?) the motherboard to fit the pump there, but in the latest pictures it looks like the board has been shifted a bit relative to the radiator - or is that just perspective playing tricks on me?
 
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Curiosity

SFF>Speed
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@Valantar thanks!
For tubing I'm already using 6/10mm (1/4" x 3/8"), going smaller would be possible but like you said, I already have fittings. Plus 6/10 is already fairly small.
For the alignment of the rad/ mobo, your eyes aren't playing tricks on you. Since I'm using my first draft of the spine plate the radiator is 1cm or so higher than it needs to be relative to the mobo. I've since corrected it, but not had a chance to print the whole spine with corrected placements. Hopefully I can do that this week, though. I'm not 100% sure if the pump will fit under the mobo tray with the psu in place, but once I have he new spine printed we'll find out. If it does, that's wonderful, but right now I'm thinking it's going to end up on it's side near the mobo or in front of the rad like I said.
 
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Valantar

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@Valantar thanks!
For tubing I'm already using 6/10mm (1/4" x 3/8"), going smaller would be possible but like you said, I already have fittings. Plus 6/10 is already fairly small.
For the alignment of the rad/ mobo, your eyes aren't playing tricks on you. Since I'm using my first draft of the spine plate the radiator is 1cm or so higher than it needs to be relative to the mobo. I've since corrected it, but not had a chance to print the whole spine with corrected placements. Hopefully I can do that this week, though. I'm not 100% sure if the pump will fit under the mobo tray with the psu in place, but once I have he new spine printed we'll find out. If it does, that's wonderful, but right now I'm thinking it's going to end up on it's side near the mobo or in front of the rad like I said.
Even if it ends up in front of the rad and thus shortening GPU clearance by a bit, you'll nonetheless have a very impressive build on your hands. Looking forward to seeing it progress :)
 
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Curiosity

SFF>Speed
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Tested my wife's broken 20v 2.25a adapter for her laptop with a 5.5*2.5 pigtail I did the 12v testing with, it crashed after 10min when running heaven extreme + p95, but didn't crash after 2 hours of heaven ultra by itself, So I soldered the pigtail on and now have a more portable brick for light use while it's still in stock a300 mode.

 
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Valantar

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I said so on Discord too, but man, this is so cool. The amount of performance possible at those power levels is bonkers.
 
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Curiosity

SFF>Speed
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Quick update since a few parts came in from my latest batch or orders:
Got my teenytiny screw kit, and my heat set standoffs, as well as my DC-in panel mount jack.
So I was able to secure the endplates to the spine and mock it up a bit more.
I need to get the heat set inserts in before I can properly test fit the mobo. (I printed the version of the spine model designed for inserts instead of screwing in standoffs directly on accident)




And finally a bad picture of the rear plate:

I need to make the relief around the round cutout smaller, remove a screw hole, resize the 8pin power inlet, and modify the GPU IO slightly so it doesn't impact the HDMI port.
 
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Curiosity

SFF>Speed
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Apr 30, 2016
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Small update:

I have successfully test mounted all comments to the spine/ bookends and ran the system!

Next steps:
  • Buy dc in barrel Jack + build the relocation wire
  • Print new revision of rear bookend with revised dimensions and more holes (including holes for wifi antennas)
  • Print new revision of spine with corrected radiator placement (currently sits about 5mm too high)
  • Buy some more fittings and get to work on actually constructing the WC loop
  • Have determined the best riser for my use is the r42 UF, so I'll need that as well.
 
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