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3D Printing Thread
- Thread starter Biowarejak
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- 3d printing
I just noticed that Cura was setting the Z clearance between the support and print to .02mm... or some absurdly low number. I changed that to .3mm and after doing so I can fit a razor blade in and shave off the support structure better, but it's still not as smooth as say, removing a support of PLA.
I really like the way PETG prints with a bigger nozzle, especially the first layer. I have the clear natural filament, and the first layer is nice and transparent and still pretty strong for a single layer.
A week ago I moved from the printed micro extruder included with my D300VS to an all metal Umbee extruder, and I'm very pleased with it's performance so far. I've gained a couple of cm in build height, but more than that, it's so easy to change filament now. I spent a good part of last night dialing in the FSR Z trigger height, and the calibrations are looking pretty damn good.
That thing above looks insane, I mean I can't believe it can keep level and stable with all those ball joints. It looks cool as hell.
I decided to make my own door for my Ultimaker, I didn't want any permanent modification to it so I decided to make a magnetic window that can easily pop on and off.
I think it looks a lot better than having ugly hinges too.
This is what I came up with:
It also gave me an excuse to try a new technique I read about ---- inserting things into a print during the print!
In this case, neodymium magnets are permanently sealed into the hinge. no glue
Because nothing in the extruder head or heated plate are magnetic.... It worked out perfectly!
It could probably work for other printers too, I put it on thingiverse:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2400431
I decided to make my own door for my Ultimaker, I didn't want any permanent modification to it so I decided to make a magnetic window that can easily pop on and off.
I think it looks a lot better than having ugly hinges too.
This is what I came up with:
It also gave me an excuse to try a new technique I read about ---- inserting things into a print during the print!
In this case, neodymium magnets are permanently sealed into the hinge. no glue
Because nothing in the extruder head or heated plate are magnetic.... It worked out perfectly!
It could probably work for other printers too, I put it on thingiverse:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2400431
Last edited:
I decided to make my own door for my Ultimaker, I didn't want any permanent modification to it so I decided to make a magnetic window that can easily pop on and off.
I think it looks a lot better than having ugly hinges too.
This is what I came up with:
It also gave me an excuse to try a new technique I read about ---- inserting things into a print during the print!
In this case, neodymium magnets are permanently sealed into the hinge. no glue
Because nothing in the extruder head or heated plate are magnetic.... It worked out perfectly!
It could probably work for other printers too, I put it on thingiverse:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2400431
I've been meaning to try that! I was always just worried about pausing the print at the right layer
That thing above looks insane, I mean I can't believe it can keep level and stable with all those ball joints. It looks cool as hell.
I decided to make my own door for my Ultimaker, I didn't want any permanent modification to it so I decided to make a magnetic window that can easily pop on and off.
I think it looks a lot better than having ugly hinges too.
This is what I came up with:
It also gave me an excuse to try a new technique I read about ---- inserting things into a print during the print!
In this case, neodymium magnets are permanently sealed into the hinge. no glue
Because nothing in the extruder head or heated plate are magnetic.... It worked out perfectly!
It could probably work for other printers too, I put it on thingiverse:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2400431
Very cool! So I guess part of the frame has metal behind it that the magnets can attach to?
In other news, Prusa Research have updated their shipping schedule this week!
This means that my printer will be shipped next week and - if I'm lucky - will arrive in time for my birthday!
I've been meaning to try that! I was always just worried about pausing the print at the right layer
I added a cosmetic groove pattern into the model which takes place on the layer right before it seals the chamber, so you just need to watch for the extruder to perform this groove, and then you'll know on the next layer it will seal it.
In this case, no. The Ultimaker frame is not magnetic, but neodymium magnets are powerful enough that they can reach opposing magnets which are attached with tape on the inside of the frame.
If the frame was magnetic, much weaker magnets could be used actually. Or fewer of the hinges.
It's really really hard to pry these magnets apart when they are close together.
Thanks! Yeah, no problem with stability. The magnets in the magball arms are supposed to be able to hold up to 1kg each.
Hey @iFreilicht I have a prusa mk2! and I'm totally in love with it.
This is the best thing I've done with it so far:
But I'm really impressed with the over all quality. The following is the smallest I've gone with a 0.4 nozzle.
This is the best thing I've done with it so far:
But I'm really impressed with the over all quality. The following is the smallest I've gone with a 0.4 nozzle.
That looks incredible.. is the whole thing printed? Really looks like metal. Can you tell us what (paint?) was used for the finishing on it?
Thanks. Yes, it's 100% 3d printed (except the clear bit). It has been a very long process that can be summed up by the following picture
Basically:
- sanding
- filler primer
- sanding
- filler primer & liquid putty
- sanding
- black primer
- chrome paint
Some parts are then weathered with multiple techniques.
Interesting... looks like it was a lot of hard work to get there. Not just a simple trick of a certain paint.
I wonder if ABS smoothing would save time by removing some of the layer edges, but probably not because it doesn't always work evenly... and maybe more labor intensive than sanding.
I wonder if ABS smoothing would save time by removing some of the layer edges, but probably not because it doesn't always work evenly... and maybe more labor intensive than sanding.
Acetone fumes smooth the surface in a way that --in my opinion-- is not compatible with how the metal looks. Sharp edges are crucial for the lightsaber build. It didn't took that long after all. I think I've spent between 30 minutes to 1 hour sanding on each piece.
At this stage though I would love a SLA or DLP 3d printer... if only they were a little cheaper.
Hey @iFreilicht I have a prusa mk2! and I'm totally in love with it.
This is the best thing I've done with it so far:
But I'm really impressed with the over all quality. The following is the smallest I've gone with a 0.4 nozzle.
Nice! Still waiting for mine, but it should arrive within july
That small print looks extremely good, did you go all the way down to 10 micron layer height for this? What about finishing work?
yes, that is 10micron layer height straight out of the 3d printer (no finishing work). With a 0.2 or 0.3 nozzle it would have been even better, but the prusa is not very "nozzle swap" friendly, so... I was almost thinking to get another one for ultra detailed work but lead time is really impossible now.
By now Prusa managed to cut down the lead time on assembled printers to 6 weeks (kits are still 7 :/ )and they're planning to drop it even further, but I totally see what you mean. Maybe you should get a big volume printer next so you can print keyboard cases in one piece?
Maybe you should get a big volume printer next so you can print keyboard cases in one piece?
you reading my mind. Any suggestion?
Of the affordable big format printers I've seen positive reviews on the Creality3D CR-10 (which also recommend to avoid gearbest when buying it). It has 300x300mm base, so enough for a 60% with a bit of margin. But a way better fit in terms of format would be the Tevo Black Widow. That has a 375x250mm base, would easily fit 75%s and not many other printers have wide rectangular print surface like that. Unfortunately, there seem to have been quite a few quality issues with the black widow, power transistors burning up and stuff like that, quite terrifying. The print bed is also aluminium, so you'd have to invest a fair bit of work to make it a good printer.
Apparently, there is a bigger CR-10 called CR-10 Max with a 500mm^3 build volume. Should be enough for even the biggest keyboard, though that thing costs a thousand bucks or more. And if you've got a good amount of money to spend and want good quality, the gCreate gMax v1.5+ would fit the bill very well. 406x406mm base on that, which is plenty for most boards.
too many bad stories about the Black Widow.... but the Creality looks very nice indeed. My ideal build area would be around 340mm (a 65% is ~310-320mm), so the CR-10 Max is very tempting. I've also looked at the hypercube, voron, c-bot and d-bot. They are all DIY solutions and you pretty much have to source everything from scratch. Not that I don't like the challenge, but still I want to print, presto
- Jul 19, 2015
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