Concept 3D printing a test computer...

[mikeschn]

Oh good. Now we are getting some good questions! Maybe I over-reacted with the 6 mm walls. My normal small prints with my normal nozzle and 3mm walls are plenty strong.

Here's the problem. Since the case was so large, and my nozzle was clogged anyways, I switched to a 0.6mm nozzle. In S3D it sets the extrusion width to 0.72. So I get two inside shells of 0.72 and two outside shells of 0.72. There's a gap of .12mm where the infill should go, only there's no infill. For those of you who were wondering, the infill was set to 20%.

So help me out here. What do I do?

Once I get the infill situation worked out I could use PETG. And no, I've never ripped chunks out of the PEI with PETG. The CR-10S has a metal hotend, so I could even use more exotic materials if that made sense. The gray stuff is standard PLA.

I don't think I can afford a laser cutter. And I never heard of Ponko. I'll have to check them out. Would you combine that with 3D printing for the corners, etc. or would you use finger joints?

Here's the problem photo...

Mike...

 

[Biowarejak]

until it rips chunks off your PEI

Lmao somehow I've totally lucked out and can print straight on glass! it's great, but if I don't let it cool I rip chunks out of the glass too.

 

[Duality92]

Oh good. Now we are getting some good questions! Maybe I over-reacted with the 6 mm walls. My normal small prints with my normal nozzle and 3mm walls are plenty strong.

Here's the problem. Since the case was so large, and my nozzle was clogged anyways, I switched to a 0.6mm nozzle. In S3D it sets the extrusion width to 0.72. So I get two inside shells of 0.72 and two outside shells of 0.72. There's a gap of .12mm where the infill should go, only there's no infill. For those of you who were wondering, the infill was set to 20%.

So help me out here. What do I do?

Once I get the infill situation worked out I could use PETG. And no, I've never ripped chunks out of the PEI with PETG. The CR-10S has a metal hotend, so I could even use more exotic materials if that made sense. The gray stuff is standard PLA.

I don't think I can afford a laser cutter. And I never heard of Ponko. I'll have to check them out. Would you combine that with 3D printing for the corners, etc. or would you use finger joints?

Here's the problem photo...

Mike...

I understand what you mean, make a test part with wall widths, try 3, 3.5, 4, 4.5, theoretically, 3.5mm should be fine for that nozzle.

 

[Biowarejak]

Oh good. Now we are getting some good questions! Maybe I over-reacted with the 6 mm walls. My normal small prints with my normal nozzle and 3mm walls are plenty strong.

Here's the problem. Since the case was so large, and my nozzle was clogged anyways, I switched to a 0.6mm nozzle. In S3D it sets the extrusion width to 0.72. So I get two inside shells of 0.72 and two outside shells of 0.72. There's a gap of .12mm where the infill should go, only there's no infill. For those of you who were wondering, the infill was set to 20%.

So help me out here. What do I do?

Once I get the infill situation worked out I could use PETG. The CR-10S has a metal hotend, so I could even use more exotic materials if that made sense. The gray stuff is standard PLA.

I don't think I can afford a laser cutter. And I never heard of Ponko. I'll have to check them out. Would you combine that with 3D printing for the corners, etc. or would you use finger joints?

Here's the problem photo...

Mike...

Tune your printer! Looks like you might be over-extruding a bit, but then I'm used to a .4mm nozzle. Also, try adjusting slicer settings for more infill - that plus minimum wall thickness might be an issue. Honestly, I'd print those solid anyway, I usually have a 3 layer thickness on my walls.

 

[mikeschn]

Duality,

Good suggestion. I printed a test piece with the following, 3, 3.5, 4 & 4.5

3.5 and 4 look pretty good. I think I'll try designing a case with a 4mm wall! :-)

Mike...

 

[mikeschn]

Can anyone recommend a USB port for the front of my case, preferably already wired with connectors for the motherboard...

Something like the one in the Raijntek would be cool!

https://smallformfactor.net/reviews/cases/raijinteks-ophion-evo-tempered-glass-rgb-but-sff

Mike...

 

[Biowarejak]

Can anyone recommend a USB port for the front of my case, preferably already wired with connectors for the motherboard...

Something like the one in the Raijntek would be cool!

https://smallformfactor.net/reviews/cases/raijinteks-ophion-evo-tempered-glass-rgb-but-sff

Mike...

You can get them a variety of places, I've had luck with Amazon before.

 

[mikeschn]

An actual link would be helpful! :-)

Mike...

 

[Biowarejak]

An actual link would be helpful! :-)

Mike...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F1L88H9/?tag=theminutiae-20

 

[mikeschn]

what a difference. So I printed the smaller lower layer, using 4mm walls. A couple small tweaks, and some cross bracing added. It's like a tank now!

Soon it'll be time to start thinking about how I can finish off the exterior case to make it look good. Any suggestions?

Mike...

 

[mikeschn]

Made a little more progress this weekend...

Mike...

 

[mikeschn]

So I printed a top and bottom cover, and some feet, and everything works. What do you think?

 

[el01]

So I printed a top and bottom cover, and some feet, and everything works. What do you think?

That. Is. SOOOO great.

Are you a drive tester in your spare time btw? Is that why you needed a hotswap bay

 

[CC Ricers]

Love how the case turned out, and the semi-transparent top. That is some tasteful use of RGB.

 

[mikeschn]

LOL, nope not a drive tester. I test different flavors of Linux.

The semi-transparent top was a last minute design change. Turned out better than I was expecting!

Mike...

 

[Duality92]

Great progress! I'm still figuring mine out, I'm trying to use the least plastic possible. Also, if you'd use over 100% extrusion, it'd help fill in those spots. Personally, my quality 3D printing settings for ABS are 245 nozzle, 100 bed, 45 chamber, 25mm/s print speed for shells, 110% extrusion and when slicing I put 25% overlap on Cura instead of the stock 15

 

[BaK]

Really nice final product!

I am also looking at 3D printing for my next project, apart from the freedom it permits, I already have two metal casings on my desk and would like a change.

Except that the 'green' part of me keeps on thinking that plastic should be banned as much as possible, even recycled one.

Do you guys know if there are 3D printing alternatives that are nature friendly?
If not, what would be the less 'toxic' option?

There is this page claiming 3D Printing Wood is Possible, but I don't see any 'Wood' option in their materials list: https://i.materialise.com/en/3d-printing-materials
Any info on this?

 

[Duality92]

PLA is plant based. Polylacticacid.

 

[mikeschn]

So PLA is environmentally friendly. http://www.technologystudent.com/joints/pla1.html

So is wood. So the question is which tool do you want to use. A CNC Router or a 3D printer?

And if you printed with a wood impregnated PLA, does that make it more environmentally friendly?

Need more details from you... what are you trying to achieve...

Mike...

 

[miptzi]

NOOIIICEEE

man, i MUST get a printer asap..