That's exactly what I did but with no lubricant and instead of a drill press (I have access to one!) I tried to use a cordless driver to turn one of my step bits. Worked fine but the holes on the last fin were not pretty.
Where to get a custom radiator?
- Thread starter SeñorDonut
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That's exactly what I did but with no lubricant and instead of a drill press (I have access to one!) I tried to use a cordless driver to turn one of my step bits. Worked fine but the holes on the last fin were not pretty.
I do have temp sensors! I have one contacting the water with a numerical read out and then a remote temperature sensor as well. Wish I had a FLIR product though.
I second the idea of a drill press. As thin as the fins are this is something where making sure you have a perfect 90 degree angle seems important.
I'm curious about how you plan on attaching the fins? If its just a friction fit like I'm assuming maybe a very thin layer of thermal compound between the fins and tubes could be beneficial. I know that'd be very messy, but once cleaned up would be a pretty permanent addition as long as you don't plan on disassembling it.
I'm curious about how you plan on attaching the fins? If its just a friction fit like I'm assuming maybe a very thin layer of thermal compound between the fins and tubes could be beneficial. I know that'd be very messy, but once cleaned up would be a pretty permanent addition as long as you don't plan on disassembling it.
With it being thin the angle matters quite a bit less, but the closer it is to perfectly perpendicular the more easily the fin will slide onto the tubing, and I do plan on more than a friction fit! I was actually planning to use some Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive
Would a silver based adhesive be better? Better heat conductor I would think.
Well, technically a diamond based adhesive would be best, but I already have this stuff on hand. Something to look into though
So I did a quick mockup in Sketchup, this version is 184mm W x 61.5mm H x 45mm D, not counting the protrusion which probably doesn't even need to be there. It's just 3mm acrylic glued together and aluminum fins attached to copper pipes with whatever thermal adhesive. Would this work and is 45mm overkill? I feel like I might be fine with like 20 or 25mm.
Update: I did some measuring and with a 20mm thick rad I could make my case as small as 4.073L and keep my current configuration (Changing power supply and not counting external)
(Changing power supply and not counting external)
I think it would, but the advantage 3D printing has over the acrylic is not needing to bend the copper pipe, and easier to attach the fins to since you don't have any pipe bends to work around I also have a G 1/4 thread tap I'm using to attach my fittings properly
I also have a G 1/4 thread tap I'm using to attach my fittings properly
Lucky you, having your own 3d printer and allI think it would, but the advantage 3D printing has over the acrylic is not needing to bend the copper pipe, and easier to attach the fins to since you don't have any pipe bends to work around
I have to rely on the shitty printers at my school. I might actually be able to get this CNCd if they ever get it set up. I'm more concerned with whether or not it's thermally viable though? Is 45mm too much? Is 20mm too little? I plan to use Sanyo Denki 9HV fans, which are certainly overkill, but I couldn't find anything under 38mm thickness that wasn't lame so I decided why not go all out in the hopes that I can save some radiator space.
Better overkill than inadequate I'm not sure honestly, I'm stuck deciding the same thing as it relates to fin density, seeing as my fins are only 1cm in depth
I'm not sure honestly, I'm stuck deciding the same thing as it relates to fin density, seeing as my fins are only 1cm in depth
I don't know much of anything about water cooling (never built a loop), but I'd try looking at the thickness of fans and fins on your typical radiators versus the fans/fins on others. Because you have 3 fans I'd compare to 360mm rads. Obviously you won't be 1:1 since you have much less surface area.
It is probably best to err on the side of fins that are too thin since you've got smaller fins that inevitably will have lower static pressure on average. And you'll probably make a lot more noise to get comparable static pressure.
It is probably best to err on the side of fins that are too thin since you've got smaller fins that inevitably will have lower static pressure on average. And you'll probably make a lot more noise to get comparable static pressure.
I think little screamers are gonna be -very- loud. At a minimum rpm of 5300, these guys are optimized for server use, where noise isn't an issue.
Better overkill than inadequate
Okay, I'll probably stick with 20mm, but I'll wait to see your results seeing as my radiator will have 20 square cm less area.
360mm rads on FrozenCPU are between 30 and 80mm thick, but I think they are probably designed for fans with much lower pressure than the 9HVs. Maybe I'll build two rads.
If I read the spec sheet right, they can go as low as 34dB, which is fine for me as it's quieter than a library. If I'm wrong though, I could always replace one of them with two of these running in series - they can go as low as 8dB.
As far as fin density, are you going for a rad geared more towards quiet operation or maximum cooling? A lower density should restrict air much less but won't benefit as much with increased rpm's on fans.
Conversely, high density should do well with high cfm fans, but would be have a steep drop off at lower rpm's.
Conversely, high density should do well with high cfm fans, but would be have a steep drop off at lower rpm's.
@Fireside I'm aiming for cooling ability over silence, the only 80mm fans I have are repurposed from an ancient laptop cooler, so I'm going to have to jury rig a power connector somehow. Means no PWM or anything, not even voltage control. Tonight I'm hoping to get some baseline readings with my current 240mm radiator, but we'll see. Filling and draining is a pain but science!
but science!
A higher fin density would probably be better then. For powering the fans as long as they are 12 volt just cut the connectors off and splice in standard desktop fan headers.
If you wanted to add some form of volt control stop by radioshack or something similar and pick up a standard three post pot. Wire it up on the positive leg of the fan(s) and it would control the speed of the fans in much the same function as a volume knob.
If you wanted to add some form of volt control stop by radioshack or something similar and pick up a standard three post pot. Wire it up on the positive leg of the fan(s) and it would control the speed of the fans in much the same function as a volume knob.
I'm fairly certain they are 12v and that actually is pretty much my plan, so good to know I'm on the right track
-EDIT-
I have an adjustable voltage wall-plug power supply that I used to test the fans. They did not enjoy 12 volts. So I guess I'll need to use a lower one or possibly a lower amperage, but the lower voltage helped them run cooler.
-EDIT-
I have an adjustable voltage wall-plug power supply that I used to test the fans. They did not enjoy 12 volts. So I guess I'll need to use a lower one or possibly a lower amperage, but the lower voltage helped them run cooler.
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So, it's been a few hours of running my dual 120mm loop with prime95 small FFTs going, temps are low 30s. I'll have to measure ambient and put this in a table for y'all. Got excited
They very well may not be 12 volt fans then, but also keep in mind that power from the wall is AC and those are DC fans. I don't know how that would affect them but I do know it can lead to undesired results when running them on AC. Though personally I doubt them running too hot would be because of that. I think you hit the nail on the head with them preferring a lower voltage. Mayhaps something in the range of 5~8 volts max.
