The 570/580 can accommodate longer gpus, about 20mm more clearance for length
Production Sliger SM550/560/570/580 (2 and 3 slot riser layouts, with air and liquid cooling variants)
- Thread starter KSliger
- Start date
The 570/580 can accommodate longer gpus, about 20mm more clearance for length
Moved all the parts from my Node 202 over. Very impressed with the thermals inside this case with vented panels. Even with just a hack single 92mm exhaust on the bottom(still waiting on water loop parts), The GPU temp dropped over 10C vs a Node 202. Was running 79 stock, and throttling at 83 OC'd in Node 202. Now running at 70C OC'd at a lower/much quieter fan speed. Also running 7C cooler than in my sons much larger Phanteks Evolv case w/ 4 case fans. Can't wait until case fans and loop gets here, will only get better!
@KSliger Thanks for making the case! Overall the case is great, thermals are awesome while wasted space kept to a minimum, rigidity in most places is great, all the holes make cable tying so easy, however there are some things that can definitely be improved upon for future versions, some nitpicks, some irritating.
- alot of the screwholes had leftover metal filings, 1 screw hole was slightly pancaked and binding, the 2 upper side back corner screw holes
that attach the top plate were not centered 100% with frame causing some screw binding, while I personally was very careful not to strip screws, I can understand how that could happen as the torque needed to drive was inconsistent.
- the PSU mount currently has 3 mounting screws, 2 to the midframe, 1 on the bottom in the front, I feel it really needs a 4th in the front up top to shore up some
flex. Just plugging in the power cable was twisting the midframe/rotating the PSU mount, I'll be drilling my own bolt hole to fix this on mine.
- I wish the pigtail and non pig tail versions ( i got both) had different length cables. I feel the cable is too long for standard config, would have happily paid
more for 2 different cables.
- the tapered screws are too short for the power inlet mount. They thread through the cable mount + backplate, but just barely. Would have liked more bite into the
screw hole for a more secure fit
- tolerances on io plate cutout were a touch loose (definately a nitpick on my part), shield kept popping out while test building.
- side panels are quite secure, but front panel seems slightly loose/wobbly. It's not going to fall off or anything, just an aesthetic thing.
@KSliger Thanks for making the case! Overall the case is great, thermals are awesome while wasted space kept to a minimum, rigidity in most places is great, all the holes make cable tying so easy, however there are some things that can definitely be improved upon for future versions, some nitpicks, some irritating.
- alot of the screwholes had leftover metal filings, 1 screw hole was slightly pancaked and binding, the 2 upper side back corner screw holes
that attach the top plate were not centered 100% with frame causing some screw binding, while I personally was very careful not to strip screws, I can understand how that could happen as the torque needed to drive was inconsistent.
- the PSU mount currently has 3 mounting screws, 2 to the midframe, 1 on the bottom in the front, I feel it really needs a 4th in the front up top to shore up some
flex. Just plugging in the power cable was twisting the midframe/rotating the PSU mount, I'll be drilling my own bolt hole to fix this on mine.
- I wish the pigtail and non pig tail versions ( i got both) had different length cables. I feel the cable is too long for standard config, would have happily paid
more for 2 different cables.
- the tapered screws are too short for the power inlet mount. They thread through the cable mount + backplate, but just barely. Would have liked more bite into the
screw hole for a more secure fit
- tolerances on io plate cutout were a touch loose (definately a nitpick on my part), shield kept popping out while test building.
- side panels are quite secure, but front panel seems slightly loose/wobbly. It's not going to fall off or anything, just an aesthetic thing.
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Why would one need pslate cables? Is this like a requirement? I have the corsair sf600 platinum with sleeved cables and I'm not sure if I need these pslate cables or not.
Which orientation had better temps though?
@KSliger , also is it normal that the bottom fan grills are super thin and that one side is like warped (not really that noticeable unless you feel or take a look at it deeply) compared to the other. I also feel that if you put even just a little force through those grills they will break easily.
Other windowed SM570 owners: How close are your PSU fans to your windows? Are they spinning like mad at any load too?
Hey guys got the Front io today. Here’s a pic and install instructions just incase you didn’t receive.
I gotcha. Thanks. I'll have to check in mine how much room it has before it hits the front of the case.
I think there was someone who mounted it the correct way. Can’t remember which page it was. Try checking a few pages back.
Got my SM580 today and started messing around with just a little before I get my Pslate cables tomorrow. Coming from a CM Storm Scout case, I'm amazed at how compact this thing is! Its great!
Couple questions- I've got a big ol' 8TB WD Red 3.5" drive I was intending on putting on the bottom with the 120mm adapter. It fits fine on the adapter and the adapter fits fine underneath. My question is how can I hook up the actual SATA cables to it? With a 140mm fan next to it on the bottom, there is next to no room between the 2 for any cables to sneak out the back. Are there super low profile SATA cables? I figure if I place the HDD closer to the front of the case under the PSU with the SATA end closest to the front of the case there is at least a tiny bit of room there, but not for a regular SATA cable when I tried. A bit flummoxed there...
Second, how do I remove the PSU mount bracket? Its connected with three screws as far as I can tell- one from the front and 2 connected to the middle spine of the case, right?
These 2 middle screws, dead center in the picture should come out, right?
Cause boy, oh boy do those 2 screws REALLY not want to move at all. The screw from the front came out fine but those 2 screws attached to the middle spine of the case do not want to move an inch- I practically snapped my screwdriver trying to get them to even wiggle and now they're borderline stripped. Am I just being stupid or something? Its almost like they were painted over or something and maybe that's why they're not budging? Or I'm being dumb and they're not supposed to be removed?
Couple questions- I've got a big ol' 8TB WD Red 3.5" drive I was intending on putting on the bottom with the 120mm adapter. It fits fine on the adapter and the adapter fits fine underneath. My question is how can I hook up the actual SATA cables to it? With a 140mm fan next to it on the bottom, there is next to no room between the 2 for any cables to sneak out the back. Are there super low profile SATA cables? I figure if I place the HDD closer to the front of the case under the PSU with the SATA end closest to the front of the case there is at least a tiny bit of room there, but not for a regular SATA cable when I tried. A bit flummoxed there...
Second, how do I remove the PSU mount bracket? Its connected with three screws as far as I can tell- one from the front and 2 connected to the middle spine of the case, right?
These 2 middle screws, dead center in the picture should come out, right?
Cause boy, oh boy do those 2 screws REALLY not want to move at all. The screw from the front came out fine but those 2 screws attached to the middle spine of the case do not want to move an inch- I practically snapped my screwdriver trying to get them to even wiggle and now they're borderline stripped. Am I just being stupid or something? Its almost like they were painted over or something and maybe that's why they're not budging? Or I'm being dumb and they're not supposed to be removed?
Screws and their respective uses.... big thick ones... flat head long ones... smaller rounded ones and flat head tiny ones... what should I use each of em for?
There right angle ones (note that you need the correct L orientation on the SATA connector) that might help you.
For such an expensive case, I expected, at the very least, a simple documentation for the case.
No, mine were tight too. One hole was oval shaped and really grabbed tight. Some holes had metal filings leftover that may increase bite. Make sure you use a correct size driver P1 that isn't worn and be careful. It becomes looser with use, but first release certainly made me nervous.
large course thread panheads are for psu/motherboard/3.5" drive , fine thread long panhead for for 2.5" drives/ pcie bracket, short countersunk for power inlet (though they are too short for this) and anywhere there is an obvious countersunk indent. I also like to rotate counter-clockwise till you hear the thread click then rotate clockwise to prevent cross threading.
Yeah, I just tried again in the light of day this time and I'm just not having any luck with them. Every other screw comes out just fine but those 2 on the PSU bracket refuse to budge. They just feel like butter and every time I take a stab at it, I feel like they're just starting to strip. Is there a specific type of Phillips head screwdriver I should be using? Just kind of at a loss for those, since I feel like if I keep trying to unscrew them they're just going to get more damaged.
At this point I might try to build around it, I guess. I think I can worm my motherboard in there if I take the 140mm fan I was going to use under the mobo out and try to slide the mobo in first around the PSU bracket.
I just realized the driver I used was JIS profile, specifically
Vessel 900 Megadora +1x75 (JIS) +1 Screwdriver 900-1-75 - - Amazon.com
Vessel 900 Megadora +1x75 (JIS) +1 Screwdriver 900-1-75 - - Amazon.com
www.amazon.com
Not sure if these screws are, but lots of tiny electronics are. Phillips are designed to camout with excessive force and will strip JIS screws, but JIS are designed not to camout and can apply more force. They also work in Phillips screws.
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