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Production Sliger SM550/560/570/580 (2 and 3 slot riser layouts, with air and liquid cooling variants)
- Thread starter KSliger
- Start date
Okay, I am confused ...
I wanted to eventually upgrade my SM550 to SM570 to fit some water cooling. And this is outstanding deal.
On the other hand - what is replacing SM570?
:edit: Yeah, long gone at the time of my writing ...
:edit2: no replacement :/
I wanted to eventually upgrade my SM550 to SM570 to fit some water cooling. And this is outstanding deal.
On the other hand - what is replacing SM570?
:edit: Yeah, long gone at the time of my writing ...
:edit2: no replacement :/
Last edited:
As stated, it's over for SM570 (RIP).
I don't expect direct replacement.
One small update regarding the situation with SM550 and USB-C frontpanel with type E mainboard connector:
I described the problem to as best as I could, and sent it to "orders@sliger.com", since that was the closest thing I could find to a support communications channel.
They were very friendly and replied "sure, we can help, we just need your order number". However, since I am located in Europe, I didn't order anything directly through Sliger, and don't have any order number. So after that I essentially didn't bother anymore. Not sure how that would have turned out if I would have kept at it a bit longer.
However, since it is only 20€, I eventually just bought a replacement front panel through density.sk
So, now I have two frontpanels, and I have to say the issue is the same for both of them. Front panel USB-C is only working in one of the four different cable orientations (turn cable at device side, turn cable at PC side). In three of the four cable orientations front panel USB-C is reliably not working. So essentially if you plug in a device you have a 25% chance of it working and a 75% chance of it not working, since USB-C cables due to their symmetry really do not give any indication on how they need to be turned.
It's also not about interference from other cables, since it is happening also with open case and detached front panels.
So now I have tested two different Sliger front panels and both have this issue. Meanwhile with the front panel of In Win 301C it worked perfectly, all other components being exactly the same (i.e. mainboard as well as cables and USB devices I used for testing). I have to assume that the problem is inherent in the Sliger USB-C type E front panel. Which is of course a bit ironic, since attaching a device to it is really the only possible use-case for a front panel USB slot. And that only use case is plainly not working.
tldr; Do not buy the front panel with internal type E connector for USB-C. It is not working.
I described the problem to as best as I could, and sent it to "orders@sliger.com", since that was the closest thing I could find to a support communications channel.
They were very friendly and replied "sure, we can help, we just need your order number". However, since I am located in Europe, I didn't order anything directly through Sliger, and don't have any order number. So after that I essentially didn't bother anymore. Not sure how that would have turned out if I would have kept at it a bit longer.
However, since it is only 20€, I eventually just bought a replacement front panel through density.sk
So, now I have two frontpanels, and I have to say the issue is the same for both of them. Front panel USB-C is only working in one of the four different cable orientations (turn cable at device side, turn cable at PC side). In three of the four cable orientations front panel USB-C is reliably not working. So essentially if you plug in a device you have a 25% chance of it working and a 75% chance of it not working, since USB-C cables due to their symmetry really do not give any indication on how they need to be turned.
It's also not about interference from other cables, since it is happening also with open case and detached front panels.
So now I have tested two different Sliger front panels and both have this issue. Meanwhile with the front panel of In Win 301C it worked perfectly, all other components being exactly the same (i.e. mainboard as well as cables and USB devices I used for testing). I have to assume that the problem is inherent in the Sliger USB-C type E front panel. Which is of course a bit ironic, since attaching a device to it is really the only possible use-case for a front panel USB slot. And that only use case is plainly not working.
tldr; Do not buy the front panel with internal type E connector for USB-C. It is not working.
hi there. have you tried other USB c cables?
USB C connector is reversible thanks to the fact, that the connectors themselves have many tiny pins populated 2x times on both sides. Here is an example how it looks: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB-C
Because of this user should be able to insert the cable in any direction and get a connection. USB C front panel with Type E cable on SLIGER cases is populating all pins and that is the reason why the port can theoretically achieve full 10 Gbps speed.
But there is a catch:
It is very common especially with phone manufacturer or many off-brand sellers to offer USB-C cables (i.e. with phones) that have data pins on the USB-C connectors populated only on one side for cost savings. That way you would be able to charge in all directions, but data transfer would be limited to one side. And because of this you will get a connection ONLY when inserting such cable in one direction but not the other.
Similar issues like this have been reported especially on phones where USB C to USB C cables are more common (PCs still use USB A to USB C cables for most applications)
We discussed this on the previous pages, as well as @wombinchen said it in his previous post, AND you (density) and I discussed the same thing - while your "catch" is valid point, the same cable works as intended on other USB-C ports. Regardless of the position you insert it (all possibilities), it works. I have the same issue but with the other cable - where the USB A and USB C go into the same internal port.
I would back @wombinchen words up based on my very same experience - the front USB IS faulty (port, pcb, cable, header - dunno).
I would back @wombinchen words up based on my very same experience - the front USB IS faulty (port, pcb, cable, header - dunno).
That is definitely weird, especially because you have mentioned to have used two different types of FPIO boards (one with dedicated 19pin and Type E cable ond the other one with split 19pin USB header cable).
have you had a chance to verify, that the motherboard was working fine when connected to front panel in a different case? Or have you had a chance to use the FPIO adapter on a different motherboard? We can surely RMA this part and test it properly and provide replacement if found defective. That is not a problem. Simply contact us via the contact form on our website with your order number and we can discuss the details. We could test them on our motherboards to verify the functionality. Because at the moment it is still not 100% clear if the FPIO board is defective or the motherboard headers based on your description.
Hi,
May I introduce my new ITX system, this time I'm testing the Sliger SM560. I will still make one or the other modification, e.g. a more flexible end of the internal USB3.0 cable, since the internal Sliger cable is currently obscuring the view of the beautiful RGB RAM from the outside. A new graphics card will be coming soon, there is enough space now. Possibly it will be "only 2 an RTX 3050.
The assembly was done quite quickly - I'm a fairly experienced PC hobbyist, among other things with the even smaller DAN A4-SFX. However, the supplied instructions from Sliger and Density are partly unusable and incorrect, e.g. the assignment of the screws is not correct in my opinion. The instructions were right, however, that the installation of the internal power cable or its socket must be done AFTER the graphics card has been installed. Unfortunately, I always have to unscrew the cable when removing the card - that wasn't the case even with the DAN.
The airflow is very good, the Noctua Fan-Duct (NA-FD1) for the NH-L9a cooler actually contributes a lot, i.e. actually around 5° Celsius cooler! The optics are also excellent, and the case also has a good touch quality. It's a pretty heavy, small chunk...!
VG first time
Eddie
My system: AMD Ryzen 5 5600G | Noctua NH-L9a-AM4 chromax.black | Gigabyte B550I AORUS Pro AX | Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro SL DDR4-3600 32GB | WD Blue SN550 2TB | EVGA SuperNOVA 450GM | MSI Geforce GTX 1060 Gaming X 6G | Noctua NF-S12A chromax.black | Sliger SM560
May I introduce my new ITX system, this time I'm testing the Sliger SM560. I will still make one or the other modification, e.g. a more flexible end of the internal USB3.0 cable, since the internal Sliger cable is currently obscuring the view of the beautiful RGB RAM from the outside. A new graphics card will be coming soon, there is enough space now. Possibly it will be "only 2 an RTX 3050.
The assembly was done quite quickly - I'm a fairly experienced PC hobbyist, among other things with the even smaller DAN A4-SFX. However, the supplied instructions from Sliger and Density are partly unusable and incorrect, e.g. the assignment of the screws is not correct in my opinion. The instructions were right, however, that the installation of the internal power cable or its socket must be done AFTER the graphics card has been installed. Unfortunately, I always have to unscrew the cable when removing the card - that wasn't the case even with the DAN.
The airflow is very good, the Noctua Fan-Duct (NA-FD1) for the NH-L9a cooler actually contributes a lot, i.e. actually around 5° Celsius cooler! The optics are also excellent, and the case also has a good touch quality. It's a pretty heavy, small chunk...!
VG first time
Eddie
My system: AMD Ryzen 5 5600G | Noctua NH-L9a-AM4 chromax.black | Gigabyte B550I AORUS Pro AX | Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro SL DDR4-3600 32GB | WD Blue SN550 2TB | EVGA SuperNOVA 450GM | MSI Geforce GTX 1060 Gaming X 6G | Noctua NF-S12A chromax.black | Sliger SM560
Nice setup indeed!Hi,
May I introduce my new ITX system, this time I'm testing the Sliger SM560. I will still make one or the other modification, e.g. a more flexible end of the internal USB3.0 cable, since the internal Sliger cable is currently obscuring the view of the beautiful RGB RAM from the outside. A new graphics card will be coming soon, there is enough space now. Possibly it will be "only 2 an RTX 3050.
The assembly was done quite quickly - I'm a fairly experienced PC hobbyist, among other things with the even smaller DAN A4-SFX. However, the supplied instructions from Sliger and Density are partly unusable and incorrect, e.g. the assignment of the screws is not correct in my opinion. The instructions were right, however, that the installation of the internal power cable or its socket must be done AFTER the graphics card has been installed. Unfortunately, I always have to unscrew the cable when removing the card - that wasn't the case even with the DAN.
The airflow is very good, the Noctua Fan-Duct (NA-FD1) for the NH-L9a cooler actually contributes a lot, i.e. actually around 5° Celsius cooler! The optics are also excellent, and the case also has a good touch quality. It's a pretty heavy, small chunk...!
VG first time
Eddie
My system: AMD Ryzen 5 5600G | Noctua NH-L9a-AM4 chromax.black | Gigabyte B550I AORUS Pro AX | Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro SL DDR4-3600 32GB | WD Blue SN550 2TB | EVGA SuperNOVA 450GM | MSI Geforce GTX 1060 Gaming X 6G | Noctua NF-S12A chromax.black | Sliger SM560
Why did you not offset your GTX 1060 to be next to side panel? Right now it seats on 3 slots GPU card slot.
I also agree that NA-FD1 duct is simply excellent for SM550/560 CPU aircooling option!
Thanks very much!
I hadn't even thought of this possibility! Of course you are right. Do you think the cooling would be much better that way? Mounting the graphics card would probably also be easier (the socket on the power cable would probably be less in the way).
I will consider this when installing a new graphics card (possibly the RTX 3050 soon) - at the moment I am very satisfied with the configuration.
Regards!
Yes GPU cooling will be better as you will limit hot air recycling (like what you are doing with noctua duct on cpu side. Let us know about your setup
I have a pair of Arctic BioniX in the bottom of my SM580, and I think the bottom section is the same as the 560 dimensionally. In case it helps anyone else, I also have a pair of 140mm Noiseblocker eLoops on a CM CLC280 at the top which are snug but do fit (28mm at the damping pads). However, I'd suggest not getting an AIO with tubes that exit the block away from the CPU as it puts quite a bit of pressure on the side panel.Hi, does anyone know if the Arctic BioniX fans fit in the SM560, since they are 27mm. Thanks
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