Well, I've had Kahlin, Chris, sales, and orders in that email, so.. I didm't include support though.
You guys think they pick up calls during the weekends?
Production Sliger SM550/560/570/580 (2 and 3 slot riser layouts, with air and liquid cooling variants)
- Thread starter KSliger
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Well, I've had Kahlin, Chris, sales, and orders in that email, so.. I didm't include support though.
You guys think they pick up calls during the weekends?
Couldn't hurt to try. I have had emails responded to on the weekend. Somebody might be burning the midnight oil.
I talked to ?Norah? when I called. She was genuinely the most helpful customer service person I've ever talked to.
I talked to ?Norah? when I called. She was genuinely the most helpful customer service person I've ever talked to.
I would love to see the know the difference in performance vs one good fan. Two slims plus all the extra cables in a SFF not sure it's worth the effort.
I also wonder how much benefit the bottom intake fans would have?
I am sad.
There are several important lessons about liquid cooling. 1: Don't mix metals. 2: Don't use solid fluids. 3: Don't use Alphacool DC-LT pumps. This is actually the second one I've had that did this. The first was in my Fallout themed micro PC. Looks like I am out of the running until the Eisbaer LT Solo pump arrives next week.
@raiistar how's the strain relief on that pump cable? Do you trust it? These DC-LT pumps are my only experience with Alphacool parts except for a couple misc fittings and it makes me not want to buy any more from them. I wonder if they'll cover the cable failure under warranty: it's clearly a defect in materials and workmanship. I wonder if the Apogee Drive II can be run at a lower RPM with the top heat sink removed and a 45 degree angle fitting coming out of the socket.
Oooooh hard tube fittings are much lower profile than flexible tubes. If I spent a mint on hard tube fittings and a bending kit, I could make a heatsinkless Drive II fit. Granted it would be cheaper to just switch to an SM580 when those are available again and have those extra mm on each side.
There are several important lessons about liquid cooling. 1: Don't mix metals. 2: Don't use solid fluids. 3: Don't use Alphacool DC-LT pumps. This is actually the second one I've had that did this. The first was in my Fallout themed micro PC. Looks like I am out of the running until the Eisbaer LT Solo pump arrives next week.
@raiistar how's the strain relief on that pump cable? Do you trust it? These DC-LT pumps are my only experience with Alphacool parts except for a couple misc fittings and it makes me not want to buy any more from them. I wonder if they'll cover the cable failure under warranty: it's clearly a defect in materials and workmanship. I wonder if the Apogee Drive II can be run at a lower RPM with the top heat sink removed and a 45 degree angle fitting coming out of the socket.
Oooooh hard tube fittings are much lower profile than flexible tubes. If I spent a mint on hard tube fittings and a bending kit, I could make a heatsinkless Drive II fit. Granted it would be cheaper to just switch to an SM580 when those are available again and have those extra mm on each side.
How much space is under the psu bracket? How much space is left between a 25 mm thick fan mounted there and the bottom of the spine is what I'm looking for.
So, on the SM580... I’m struggling to get the top panel off. I have (what appears to be) all side and rear screws removed. The other panels were a little difficult to take off, as I’m sure the manufacturing process made for a tight finish.
Am I wrong in assuming that it comes off in the first place? I’m just a little apprehensive about where to apply leverage to separate the panel from the chassis itself. Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Am I wrong in assuming that it comes off in the first place? I’m just a little apprehensive about where to apply leverage to separate the panel from the chassis itself. Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
You only have to remove the four screws (two from each side) under the side panels to release the radiator/fan bracket at the top. After they're out, reach up and get leverage on it with the tips of your fingers. It's in there tight, so you'll have to pull pretty hard. You don't need a socket wrench at all. You don't need to completely remove the top panel either, but it may make the rest of the build easier. To do that, you just have to unscrew everything along the top of the case and pull it up and away. Don't forget the two screws behind the front panel.
Ahh, that would explain it...
My unit did NOT ship with the mounting bracket. I have spent the last hour racking my brain, under the assumption that I was too dense to understand this case's layout.
Yikes. Thank you for pointing that out. I searched my packing, the contents that were inside the case, etc. - nowhere to be found.
Unfortunate.
I sincerely hope that works like a plate, cupping around the PSU as opposed to something that needs to be mounted first and then having to slide the PSU into place... because I already have everything else in the build completed.
After a big fight, I am FREE of the DC-LT pump. I managed to get my EK-XTOP SPC-60 PWM into the case beside the 1080 Ti FTW3. This is a bigger card than almost any other card, so I expect others won't have this problem.
I accomplished this by disassembling the pump and removing the "feet" that are also the bolts that hold the pump to the pump top. I drilled holes in the front of the case, then had the difficult fight of lining them up and mounting it with the top radiator/fans in place (because the top radiator looked like it would be impossible to slide in with the pump in place.)
HOWEVER this means I have to literally disassemble the pump and fight with bolting it back in if I want to remove ANY components from the GPU side of the system. I also have to figure out where to put my fill and drain ports, but I think I can figure it out. I won't proceed any further until my pslate cables arrive. I ordered an unsleeved kit to be physically smaller and to match the UV+Plexi theme I'm going for in this case. Now that all the big parts are installed, I am VERY excited to keep going and more confident than ever that I can get it done. I expect my reservoir will be just a length of tube that I can tuck away, and will also serve as my drain/fill port.
I accomplished this by disassembling the pump and removing the "feet" that are also the bolts that hold the pump to the pump top. I drilled holes in the front of the case, then had the difficult fight of lining them up and mounting it with the top radiator/fans in place (because the top radiator looked like it would be impossible to slide in with the pump in place.)
HOWEVER this means I have to literally disassemble the pump and fight with bolting it back in if I want to remove ANY components from the GPU side of the system. I also have to figure out where to put my fill and drain ports, but I think I can figure it out. I won't proceed any further until my pslate cables arrive. I ordered an unsleeved kit to be physically smaller and to match the UV+Plexi theme I'm going for in this case. Now that all the big parts are installed, I am VERY excited to keep going and more confident than ever that I can get it done. I expect my reservoir will be just a length of tube that I can tuck away, and will also serve as my drain/fill port.
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For your sake, I hope so too. But if not, you get the build a PC all over again! Fun!
My case needs to ship quick, I keep buying stuff for my build and they've got nowhere to go
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This guy apparently missed that the radiator frame comes out and instead put screws on through the top grate.
the substructure under the grate that you mount the radiator too is held in with 4 screws and comes right out. You don't have to remove the whole top.
Indeed. It's been discussed on numerous occasions within this thread. I guess they haven't been following it. ?
He got one thing right, though. They are pretty cheap screws. I just finished drilling one out of the PCIE bracket. Thankfully the hole retained its thread so I could replace it and secure my graphics card properly.
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