SOOOO.... I updated my bios and now it works. I feel small... my brain wasn't working!
Thanks!
SKYREACH 4 MINI (S4M)
- Thread starter Josh | NFC
- Start date
Thanks!
@Thehack is there any way I can "tip" you without signing up for a Makerbot account as my way of saying thanks without directly ordering from your site?
It is rated by the manufacturer as 22~30 dBA. However dBA ratings varies greatly depending on testing method, environment, and equipment. I would not take that rating seriously.
It is comparable to the Noctua fan in overall noise characteristics.
@Josh | NFC Do you happen to have a spare DC power cable for your Eurocom units that I could test my setup with? Long story short, the techs at Eurocom have FINALLY tested my unit, and apparently cannot find anything wrong with it. They say that the issue is either with the modded power cable, or something else. If I can't find another DC power cable to test with (they charge a ridiculous $129 for a new one), I'll just sell my Eurocom unit and get a G-Unique kit from Gury.
I do not, but I am fairly certain that the issue is with your HDPLEX 400. You need to switch to the Dynamo 360 and the HDPLEX 160 DC-DC.
Peace my friend.
I'm still waiting on yet another HDPLEX unit from Larry. This will be my third one, but he said that once the newest batch is complete, he will ship me one for free. Also, I can't go with the Dynamo360 and the HDPLEX 160 as my power draw is way too high, and I need two 8-pin connectors for the 1080 Ti. I can get a sustained 550W from my system under heavy testing, and even when gaming, the system draws between 350-450w.
I guess I'll have to wait for Larry to send me a new DC-DC unit, to see if that is really the issue.
But with the Dynamo 360, you get 360w of power dedicated for your GPU, and 160w of power for your motherboard/CPU. So you would have access to more power from your Eurocom brick, in theory. You can use the same dual pin cable. @Kmpkt can confirm for me in case I am wrong here.
I think its great if Larry has the HDPLEX 400 problem sorted out as I know those will work, if they are working properly, but the "Dynamo Duo" is the highest wattage solution currently available for the MINI.
Peace
Oh... I guess I misunderstood the information for those items. I thought the Dynamo was an AC-DC adapter, much like an external brick, and the HDPLEX 160 was the DC-DC main source. With that, I thought the total system wattage capabilities were capped at 360. I'll have to read up on those two items a bit more. Thanks for the info!
@Pestilaence I also sent my Eurocom brick back for them to test it, and they said that it works fine with the stock cable on a laptop (7700k, SLI GTX 1080s). They didn't run any games to test it, but Heaven ran fine, something that could not be done on my system. They asked me if they could open up my modded cable, and I told them yes before reading the recent posts. I made sure that the connections were soldered well when I did the mod, and I'm not entirely sure if the issue is with the cable due to the fact that my system was able to run Prime95 and Furmark for 10 minutes without a reset on the Eurocom brick. Another factor is that my system ran mostly fine with Larry's 1200W brick. The exception to this is the reset that occurred about 2 minutes into running Heaven and Prime95, but Larry does not think this means that there is a direct problem with the 400W DC-ATX.
@Josh | NFC Have you spoken with Larry about the potential issues with the Eurocom bricks? I have only tried Revision 1.4 of the 400W DC-ATX (with and without the unified heatsink), so figuring out exactly what the issue is has been difficult as I've been using the same DC-DC power supply in my testing. I'd like to avoid Eurocom opening up my cable if possible, but there doesn't seem to be much else to test, assuming that the 400W DC-ATX is fine and that the brick doesn't crash with the laptop while running a game. Just out of curiosity, did the 1080 Ti system that you built on your livestream work fine? I believe a Revision 1.4 400W DC-ATX was used for it.
@Kmpkt I was actually thinking about switching to the Dynamo combo from the 400W DC-ATX for a reason that wasn't related to my power problems. Is the DC input on the Dynamo 360 the same as the one on the 400W DC-ATX? Also, do the Dynamo Mini and the HDPLEX 160W function exactly the same with the Dynamo 360? I remember reading or hearing that they are the same unit, but I just want to make sure. I believe the Dynamo 360 is ready to be purchased on SFF Lab, and I found an HDPLEX 160W on eBay (https://www.ebay.com/itm/HDPLEX-160...484933?hash=item2cda53c885:g:NfgAAOSwjkxbhx6g). The cables have been shortened, but I don't think that it will cause problems. I'd prefer to purchase a new one, but it is not in stock on the HDPLEX website.
@Josh | NFC Have you spoken with Larry about the potential issues with the Eurocom bricks? I have only tried Revision 1.4 of the 400W DC-ATX (with and without the unified heatsink), so figuring out exactly what the issue is has been difficult as I've been using the same DC-DC power supply in my testing. I'd like to avoid Eurocom opening up my cable if possible, but there doesn't seem to be much else to test, assuming that the 400W DC-ATX is fine and that the brick doesn't crash with the laptop while running a game. Just out of curiosity, did the 1080 Ti system that you built on your livestream work fine? I believe a Revision 1.4 400W DC-ATX was used for it.
@Kmpkt I was actually thinking about switching to the Dynamo combo from the 400W DC-ATX for a reason that wasn't related to my power problems. Is the DC input on the Dynamo 360 the same as the one on the 400W DC-ATX? Also, do the Dynamo Mini and the HDPLEX 160W function exactly the same with the Dynamo 360? I remember reading or hearing that they are the same unit, but I just want to make sure. I believe the Dynamo 360 is ready to be purchased on SFF Lab, and I found an HDPLEX 160W on eBay (https://www.ebay.com/itm/HDPLEX-160...484933?hash=item2cda53c885:g:NfgAAOSwjkxbhx6g). The cables have been shortened, but I don't think that it will cause problems. I'd prefer to purchase a new one, but it is not in stock on the HDPLEX website.
Eurocom didn't ask me if they could check my cable, they just said they "didn't experience any abnormalities" while testing. I had the same revision 1.4 HEDPLEX models (with and without unified heatsink) that you did, and the same issues. Larry told me the same thing that he told you, that he doesn't believe the issue is with the HDPLEX 400 itself. While using his PSU though, I didn't experience any instant restarts, but the power would eventually trip after running heaven or gaming for a little while.
I'm just fed up with having so many issues, and never getting a solid answer or resolution. Larry told me that the newest batch of HDPLEX 400's will be done next week, so I really hope that this solves the problem.
The DC input on the 360 is the same as the 400W DC-ATX and yes the current generation 160W units (KMPKT and HDPlex) are the same units. The one crucial difference is that the Dynamo Mini ships with a 4 pin to 4 pin cable for connecting the Dynamo 360 whereas the HDPlex unit doesn't. That being said you can use one of the 6 pin to 6 pin connectors supplied with the Dynamo 360 to fill the same role.
@Pestilaence and @MrKoolKhai if it helps I experienced the same issues you all did but with a much less intensive build. I was running the 8700 and 1080 powered by a Genuine Omen brick. Tried two HDPLEX's 400 both Rev 1.4 and two Omen bricks and the issue persisted. After talking to Josh he suggested moving over to the Dynamo 360 + HDPLEX 160 combo. Already have the 360 and waiting on the 160's to come back in stock. But my preliminary tests with the 360 alone look promising.
If I wanted to go brickless, which at this point I think I would love, what do you guys think would be my best solution? Is it even possible to do, with a system that is capable of pulling in excess of 500w? I'm pretty sure that the 1080 Ti is too tall to allow the HDPLEX 400 AC-DC unit to be placed above it, HOWEVER, if I moved my DC-DC unit to the top of the case, and placed the AC-DC unit in the front where I currently have the DC-DC, I think everything would fit. My cable runs would be a bit ridiculous, but it could work.
Thoughts?
@Josh | NFC @hdplex
**EDIT**
Crap, nevermind. There isn't 7 inches of space between the top of the power button, and the bottom of the GPU, which is what would be required to fit the AC-DC unit. If the power button and associated holes were moved down further, then I could achieve this, but they're too high. I guess I COULD mount the AC-DC unit outside the case, on the very top, then just run the wires and connectors through the slots on the top... but that would look weird.
Thoughts?
@Josh | NFC @hdplex
**EDIT**
Crap, nevermind. There isn't 7 inches of space between the top of the power button, and the bottom of the GPU, which is what would be required to fit the AC-DC unit. If the power button and associated holes were moved down further, then I could achieve this, but they're too high. I guess I COULD mount the AC-DC unit outside the case, on the very top, then just run the wires and connectors through the slots on the top... but that would look weird.
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@Josh | NFC Have you spoken with Larry about the potential issues with the Eurocom bricks? I have only tried Revision 1.4 of the 400W DC-ATX (with and without the unified heatsink), so figuring out exactly what the issue is has been difficult as I've been using the same DC-DC power supply in my testing. I'd like to avoid Eurocom opening up my cable if possible, but there doesn't seem to be much else to test, assuming that the 400W DC-ATX is fine and that the brick doesn't crash with the laptop while running a game. Just out of curiosity, did the 1080 Ti system that you built on your livestream work fine? I believe a Revision 1.4 400W DC-ATX was used for it.
This is not a Eurocom only issue, unfortunately. This is happening with any and every brick out there. Part of the problem is that there have been at least three revisions of revision 1.4, so it has been hard for me to track down. The build I did was using an older HDPLEX 400, and yes, it worked fine.
HDPLEX products have been completely and totally solid and I look forward to this issue getting fixed. In the meantime until it can be proven to me that it is, I am recommending the Dynamo 360 + HDPLEX 160 which has been a solid option for me. The HDPLEX 400 has been my preferred choice because of simplicity and cable management, not because it is better than the Dynamo Duo.
This is not a Eurocom only issue, unfortunately. This is happening with any and every brick out there. Part of the problem is that there have been at least three revisions of revision 1.4, so it has been hard for me to track down. The build I did was using an older HDPLEX 400, and yes, it worked fine.
HDPLEX products have been completely and totally solid and I look forward to this issue getting fixed. In the meantime until it can be proven to me that it is, I am recommending the Dynamo 360 + HDPLEX 160 which has been a solid option for me. The HDPLEX 400 has been my preferred choice because of simplicity and cable management, not because it is better than the Dynamo Duo.
@Josh | NFC Alright, I'll probably end up getting the Dynamo Duo at some point. I haven't talked to Larry in a while, so I'm not sure if he plans on sending me an HDPLEX 400 from the new batch. It's a shame that all of this is going on; the Eurocom brick was really expensive and the Delta 400 may have not been the cause of the problem after all. I guess I just have to wait for Eurocom to do a game test for me, and then I'll have it shipped back if everything is working properly.
Question for NH-L9i owners: would cutting away 2 of the supporting joins/beams on the underside of the included fan result in (a) any loss of structural integrity, and (b) any improvement in airflow/temp/less air resistance directly over the heatsink? Pic below for reference.
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