"Probably should fit with no problems, probably, not official, bu- but more than likely, probably, it should fit."
- uSFF in a nutshell
- uSFF in a nutshell
-
Save 15% on ALL SFF Network merch, until Dec 31st! Use code SFF2024 at checkout. Click here!
S4 MINI Classic (S4M-C)
- Thread starter Josh | NFC
- Start date
I've got a quick question. Why did you opt for the flexible PCIe riser?
Going by the layout a dual rigid riser might have worked just as well and a much lower cost, even if you have 1 extra PCIe socket, the amount of PCBs is the same and you don't have the problem with flexible cable and shielding, although with your engineering that shouldn't pose a problem anymore
.
Any specific reason?
Silverstone has a similar setup in the RVZ02 where they have a right angle PCIe riser and and PCIe extender.
Going by the layout a dual rigid riser might have worked just as well and a much lower cost, even if you have 1 extra PCIe socket, the amount of PCBs is the same and you don't have the problem with flexible cable and shielding, although with your engineering that shouldn't pose a problem anymore
.Any specific reason?
Silverstone has a similar setup in the RVZ02 where they have a right angle PCIe riser and and PCIe extender.
It makes installation a LOT easier. I'd also say you get a bit more tolerance when placing the card, you can change the position by a few mms without having to redesign the riser.
The riser looks a lot like the one I've got from LiHeat, so you don't have to worry about shielding yourself, they've got that down pretty good.
The riser looks a lot like the one I've got from LiHeat, so you don't have to worry about shielding yourself, they've got that down pretty good.
I experimented with a rigid setup for the better part of a year. It has advantages, but in the end the ribbon was my choice.
A. It saves space to use a ribbon. The RVZ02 isn't comparable in size to the S4 even if they designed it for 8" cards.
B. iFreilicht's post...especially in that if I made minor changes I wouldn't have to redesign everything and be locked into the PCB. If I make an update to the S4 between runs I don't have to sweat it. Now if I had _YOUR_ engineering skills, this wouldn't be a problem
C. The ribbon should offer better performance (more of a bullet point as I doubt most users would be able to tell in every day uses).
I might go rigid in the future, but for the S4, I think the ribbon makes sense.
A. It saves space to use a ribbon. The RVZ02 isn't comparable in size to the S4 even if they designed it for 8" cards.
B. iFreilicht's post...especially in that if I made minor changes I wouldn't have to redesign everything and be locked into the PCB. If I make an update to the S4 between runs I don't have to sweat it. Now if I had _YOUR_ engineering skills, this wouldn't be a problem
C. The ribbon should offer better performance (more of a bullet point as I doubt most users would be able to tell in every day uses).
I might go rigid in the future, but for the S4, I think the ribbon makes sense.
Last edited:
BTW, I ordered a one from NCIX US (Canadian Link) a couple days ago - it's listed at $29.99, and came in at just under $42 after shipping and tax. Note, it was in stock and mine shipped on the 26th, but it's showing as out of stock in the US now. Hopefully it'll do an adequate job with cooling a 4790K, if not I'll switch to the NH-L9i, but shaving off 300g in weight is pretty appealing.
Also I don't think I can say this enough times, but the main reason I like the CNPS2x is that it is short enough you can fit the Scythe 12mm fan in the chassis over the whole motherboard, and with it's omni fin designed it combos quite nicely.
Funny thing is, I saw a user review where someone actually expected it to cool a 120W CPU quietly because Zalman claims that is the maximum TDP it can handle.
This might seem like a weird question but would it be possible to get a case but without any power coating or finishes? I was doing some exploring on some aluminum cases/various finishes and I stumbled upon a couple pictures of a S3 case "unfinished." It's one of the sexiest cases I've ever seen. If it's not possible, that's alright. I'll find another way to incorporate the black "stock" coating into my desk.
Thanks, yeah, I would really like to have been able to order some unfinished, but the run was too small. It makes it much easier for me when I do the luxury paintjobs on them...as I need to sandblast them all now.
Sorry.
Though you gave me an idea to strip the paint of the exterior panels and rebrush them...leave the black on the inside with brushed outside. Could look nice...
I don't know much about powercoating, but wouldn't that make the coating more susceptible to chipping off? Or isn't that a thing with powder coats?
So if you scrape of the coat at one point, there would be an edge where the coat and the bare material meet, right? At that edge, the coat could be chipped off just with your fingernail, right? I think that's how it works with lake, but powder coating could be different.
Yes, once a powder coat is compromised by a cut, it is very easy for the exposed edge between coat and metal to separate and have the coating start to flake off. This is normally an issue with rust or oxide coatings forming and mechanically loosening the powder coat. Powder coating Aluminium involved disrupting, removing or otherwise penetrating the oxide layer, so exposing bare Aluminium at the edge of the coating allows oxide to form and thicken.
Oh that's what you mean. I think with some powders on AL that would be possible, as EdZ described...certainly would occur with steel...but I wasn't suggesting that anyways...it would look terrible!
I mean physically stripping all the powder from the exterior panels though an acid bath or sandblasting, then brushing the panels as another custom option. They could be polished or clearcoated as well to prevent oxidization, which honestly on the alloys im using is less of a problem than dust, and solved the same way.
I mean physically stripping all the powder from the exterior panels though an acid bath or sandblasting, then brushing the panels as another custom option. They could be polished or clearcoated as well to prevent oxidization, which honestly on the alloys im using is less of a problem than dust, and solved the same way.
Copypasta:
Some more custom powdercoats we did last week. I have some photos...but they are almost impossible to photograph...I couldn't capture the IRL look and color shifting effects.
This is a two stage chameleon orange (high gloss metallic that shifts from orange to safety yellow)
This one is probably my new favorite. Ultra-durable teflon wrinkle that appears as a dark grey or light black in most light, but shifts to a navy blue with a metallic highlight. Hence the name "Navy Velure Wrinkle:"
Some more custom powdercoats we did last week. I have some photos...but they are almost impossible to photograph...I couldn't capture the IRL look and color shifting effects.
This is a two stage chameleon orange (high gloss metallic that shifts from orange to safety yellow)
This one is probably my new favorite. Ultra-durable teflon wrinkle that appears as a dark grey or light black in most light, but shifts to a navy blue with a metallic highlight. Hence the name "Navy Velure Wrinkle:"
Wow, just....wow. The orange and black is... A work of art. Amazing job you and your team did. If you ever do a purple powder coating, some pictures would be nice. Although I already pre ordered one, I have some future plans for a purple themes build.
