S4 MINI Classic (S4M-C)

[zhl146]

I went ahead and ordered a SF600 SFX PSU from corsair. I will try making my own cable that simply plugs into one of the modular cable slots on the PSU that ends in a 4 pin DIN connector.

While I was thinking about this, I am wondering if anyone tried using a pico simply to eliminate the 24pin cable in a regular case? I guess it would introduce a little bit of inefficiency if you did this? Seems like a pretty good space saver if you want to turn a 24pin into 2 cables.
*EDIT* I meant with an actual ATX PSU inside the case

 

[MrNintend0]

Well, good news and bad. Good news is I was able to take the PSU apart. It was pretty simple: slowly pry the end cap off and use a sharp knife to cut through the glue; easy. Bad news: the entire board is encased in the stuff, which is rubbery (is that a word?).

Also, the wires are not attached with screw terminals like I was hoping for, but instead soldered to the board. That in itself isn't terrible. However, considering the entire board is encased in the rubber-like glue, trying to scrape off the glue enough to get at the solder joints to de-solder the old wires and re-solder some new ones isn't likely to happen... without a lot of work anyway.

Welp, this sucks. I'll have to think about what I want to do with that PSU now. Not sure if I still want to try to use it or not.

I went ahead and ordered a SF600 SFX PSU from corsair. I will try making my own cable that simply plugs into one of the modular cable slots on the PSU that ends in a 4 pin DIN connector.

While I was thinking about this, I am wondering if anyone tried using a pico simply to eliminate the 24pin cable in a regular case? I guess it would introduce a little bit of inefficiency if you did this? Seems like a pretty good space saver if you want to turn a 24pin into 2 cables.
*EDIT* I meant with an actual ATX PSU inside the case

We/They [that is others on SFF] talked about it before in another thread, which is here.

 

[TheWhiteWolves]

@MrNintend0 That rubbery glue will be anti tamper varnish, we put it on the pcb at the place I used to work at a couple years ago, you should be able to cut most of it off with a knife and then you can just burn through to the joints with a soldering iron. Be warned though, it sticks something awful and try not to breath it in.

 

[Phuncz]

Is it meant for anti-tampering ? I always thought it was for shock absorbtion, heft and sturdiness, in encased power supplies.

 

[TheWhiteWolves]

That's what we used it for, but it is a fire protection company (they make the big systems that you see in buildings) so its probably just its main purpose. No doubt it probably does help in terms of shock absorption etc aswell.

 

[zhl146]

Well, good news and bad. Good news is I was able to take the PSU apart. It was pretty simple: slowly pry the end cap off and use a sharp knife to cut through the glue; easy. Bad news: the entire board is encased in the stuff, which is rubbery (is that a word?).

Also, the wires are not attached with screw terminals like I was hoping for, but instead soldered to the board. That in itself isn't terrible. However, considering the entire board is encased in the rubber-like glue, trying to scrape off the glue enough to get at the solder joints to de-solder the old wires and re-solder some new ones isn't likely to happen... without a lot of work anyway.

Welp, this sucks. I'll have to think about what I want to do with that PSU now. Not sure if I still want to try to use it or not.



We/They [that is others on SFF] talked about it before in another thread, which is here.

Cool! I'll take a look

 

[MarcParis]

R&D on going here..

 

[zhl146]

@Josh | NFC I know you love the adaptec bricks so maybe you would be able to answer this question. Do you have any idea where I might be able to find a pre-assembled 4-pin din cable like the adaptec has? I have looked all over and it's the only 16/4 4 pin din cable that I have been able to find. I could just salvage the one from my adaptec, but I don't want to kill it

I tried ordering the kycon 4-pin DIN connector separately, but I was not happy with the way it went together. It seemed like there were too many small fragile parts to last. I got the SF600 and it has been great so far. I can run all my hardware at full and the PSU fan has not even needed to turn on yet.

PS What kind of screws does the S4 mini use to attach the outer covers? Mine are getting a little stripped from me taking them off all the time.

 

[Josh | NFC]

I wish I could help you there. Honestly I feel sophomoric on this forum...I know so little so maybe someone else can chime in to help you!

I still don't understand why we cant use CB connectors. Shows you how stupid I am. I have them on a couple of my builds and I like it, but apparently its super dangerous.

Your second question I can answer. They are 110 degree flat heat 6-32 that are 1/4" long. I agree they are crappy, unfortunately I don't get a say in the screw type unless I wanted to replace them all by hand. Which I don't.

I think round head screws AND socket screws AND 60 degree flat heat allen head screws in 18-8 (or 316) look great. But if you want it to be flush get a 110 degree head.

Peace!

 

[zhl146]

I wish I could help you there. Honestly I feel sophomoric on this forum...I know so little so maybe someone else can chime in to help you!

I still don't understand why we cant use CB connectors. Shows you how stupid I am. I have them on a couple of my builds and I like it, but apparently its super dangerous.

Your second question I can answer. They are 110 degree flat heat 6-32 that are 1/4" long. I agree they are crappy, unfortunately I don't get a say in the screw type unless I wanted to replace them all by hand. Which I don't.

I think round head screws AND socket screws AND 60 degree flat heat allen head screws in 18-8 (or 316) look great. But if you want it to be flush get a 110 degree head.

Peace!

No problem! We all appreciate that you are active here and answer our questions

I'll check out the screws. I am just afraid that one of these days it will totally strip and I won't be able to take it out without damaging the case! I've been pretty careful about tightening them

 

[zhl146]

Actually, I looked for the screws you described, but they didn't quite look like mine (they looked larger). I measured mine and they are more like 4mm or 5/32 of an inch. I wanted to make sure that I was going to buy the right size screws before I ordered a bunch of them! I guess the length doesn't matter as much as long as I have the clearance, but I wanted to be positive!

 

[Josh | NFC]

Actually, I looked for the screws you described, but they didn't quite look like mine (they looked larger). I measured mine and they are more like 4mm or 5/32 of an inch. I wanted to make sure that I was going to buy the right size screws before I ordered a bunch of them! I guess the length doesn't matter as much as long as I have the clearance, but I wanted to be positive!

You are right. I messed up. The one I have here is for something else. I'm sorry I almost had you order one longer.

The ones in the chassis are about 4.75mm, and they are listed in the BOM as 632 5MM, but that could be an error. It probably is an error.

Then again, this looks spot on...

I'm going to get some sleep before I tell someone to buy another R9 Nano. That was an expensive buyback program...

 

[zhl146]

You are right. I messed up. The one I have here is for something else. I'm sorry I almost had you order one longer.

The ones in the chassis are about 4.75mm, and they are listed in the BOM as 632 5MM, but that could be an error. It probably is an error.

Then again, this looks spot on...

I'm going to get some sleep before I tell someone to buy another R9 Nano. That was an expensive buyback program...

lol... Thanks again

 

[Kmpkt]

Using the new 1050ti minis leaves an awful lot of space inside the S4 if anyone is curious


Enough for a 160W AC-DC from HDPlex even!


The only downside is that the bottom post sticks out into the way of the HDPlex. I'm working on a solution for that though and if it doesn't work I may just chop it off (carefully) That being said, I believe the bolts are gone on the next revision of the S4 for anyone who'd like to do something like this.

 

[MrNintend0]

@MrNintend0 That rubbery glue will be anti tamper varnish, we put it on the pcb at the place I used to work at a couple years ago, you should be able to cut most of it off with a knife and then you can just burn through to the joints with a soldering iron. Be warned though, it sticks something awful and try not to breath it in.

Thanks, I'm still unsure what I want to do with the PSU. Part of me is wanting to try it and another is wanting to try out the dual PSU idea that @zhl146 brought up several posts above. My brain has been stuck on that for a while thinking of different ways things can be done.

If Larry can get that direct-plug style HDPLEX out soon, I just might get one of those and use a 160W HDPLEX for accessories and the GPU. Since the 160 and presumably the direct-plug will both use 19V, you only need one power input. Then inside the case, split the power after the first termination (power brick plug/jack) or make a new one at the 4-pin termination to try and balance the current going through all the wires.

My brain is still thinking on that though, and considering I don't have either to physically mess around with, all I can do is theorize.

Using the new 1050ti minis leaves an awful lot of space inside the S4 if anyone is curious


Enough for a 160W AC-DC from HDPlex even!


The only downside is that the bottom post sticks out into the way of the HDPlex. I'm working on a solution for that though and if it doesn't work I may just chop it off (carefully) That being said, I believe the bolts are gone on the next revision of the S4 for anyone who'd like to do something like this.

Nicely done. This is what all forums should be like. Not trying to show off or brag about what we can do or what we have; it's sharing ideas with others that can use or even help develop them. More along the lines of: here's my idea that I did, it's different, can someone do something else with it?

After seeing Zotac's 1050 ti Mini, I kinda want to make a single slot version eventually... Okay, that's a problem with forums: too many ideas getting in my head...

 

[Saltvann]

So I have a samsung 850 evo ssd that I am planning on using with my upcoming s4 mini build. I was wondering if it would be possible to remove the ssd from its 2.5" case and mount it in the front inside of the case (where the hdplex is normally mounted). If so what would be the best way to attach it, thermal adhesive tape? Here is a picture. The one i have is on the right (250GB). Not sure if there is enough height though.


Edit: Tried posting a picture, but the link will have to do...


Also does anyone now of any good feet for this case which are of low height and will handle being transported around. I am thinking of something similar to the feet of a macbook laptop, maybe a little higher though.


Edit2: I opened the ssd and the pcb itself seems to be about 53mm wide. I will try to modify the ssd case with a dremel. Should just about fit.

Mod edit: fixed pic embed

 

[kirin]

Removed the unibody in hope of better temps for my 1070. Big thanks to Josh for providing the perforated steel. Even included a bit of the modders tape!

Also @Saltvann I get the same problem using mobile imgur. Try copying and pasting the direct link that contain i.imgur

 

[Kmpkt]

For the record, the 1050ti and 35W 4690T I've been running in my S4 for the past several days has yet to peak over 125W under any stresses I've put it under and nothing seems to have gone over about 65 degrees Celsius either. Pretty efficient/cool little build.

 

[eutholevonik]

For the record, the 1050ti and 35W 4690T I've been running in my S4 for the past several days has yet to peak over 125W under any stresses I've put it under and nothing seems to have gone over about 65 degrees Celsius either. Pretty efficient/cool little build.

I believe the 4690t is 45w which makes the overall system draw that much more impressive!

 

[Tanax]

Does it say anywhere on your website what has changed between the different revisions and also what revision you're currently on?
I saw somewhere someone posted they had a NFC S4-mini v5 - is v5 the most current one? And how do we know what changed from v4?